Through the Glass Lightly
 April 28th 2013 10.12

Click For Large ViewThe cellars of Joseph Drouhin in the heart of Beaune are some of Burgundy's most stately, as are often the wines. Long so elegant that they sometimes appeared light, they were excellent in generous vintages and occasionally a tad thin in more difficult years. The last few vintages, though, have shown, albeit still on the more discrete side of the bar, markedly more substance. When the gods smile on their style, both whites and reds can be magnificent, as were the sumptuous Montrachet and sublime Musigny in 2012; but I have always had a special affection for their subtle interpretation of the Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens and, in particular, the smokey silkiness of their Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Petits Monts. Veronique Drouhin believes that biodynamics are bringing their grapes more refreshing acidities, which allows the wines to show elegance in spite of the added weight.  Comments


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