Alberto di Gresy was  a generous host last night, pulling a few unusual wines from his private cellar for dinner. The most surprising was a 1996 Dolcetto d'Alba Monte Aribaldo. Although I have always been a tad more drawn to delicate Dolcetto than Barbera, I had never had the opportunity to taste a mature example, certainly not one of this quality. It spoke with a resounding regional accent and the freshness reminiscent of Nebbiolo. A 1980 Barbaresco further highlighted what Alberto has often said of his wines, namely that they show well in lesser vintages. Nonetheless, it was a delicate 2006 Barbaresco 'Camp Gros' that ended the evening. This remains my favourite vintage of the past decade. Comments