Before I left for Italy, Hanjörg Rebholz invited Jürgen Mathäss and me to a little dinner out of doors during which he pulled - amongst a number of foreign bottles - three from his own cellar: a 1991 Im Sonnenschein Muskateller Kabinett trocken, a 1990 Spätburgunder in magnum and a 1971 Kastanienbusch Grauburgunder Spätlese made by his father. This has always been an estate whose wines need time to develop, but this was a step beyond the call of duty. In particular, the Muskateller was a surprise! I have always had a weakness for mature wines and wish that my father had left me the sort of cellar my children may one day inherit if too many friends do not come to visit first. Comments