Germany 2007 Final Draft

Germany 2007:  A Classical Spatlese Year

                After two short crops that were quite different in character, 2007 brought producers in Germany both quality and volume.  With an early bud break, near faultless flowering, relatively ideal conditions through August and an Indian summer, it should have been an outstanding vintage.  In fact, it was, but only for those estates that showed patience.

                In 2006 and 2005 quality was uneven from region to region and estate to estate due to the vagaries of nature.   In 2007, the patchiness was generally the fault of the producer.  After suffering hail, rains during harvest and rot, most estates were primarily interested in cellaring a large and healthy crop, and many harvested far too early out of undue fear.  As the grapes already had sufficient sugars in early September, but not the phenolic ripeness necessary to make fine wine, the crush began too hastily.  The result in most of the “September wines,” as Hansjörg Rebholz calls them, was a thread of slightly bitter acidity that ran through so many of my tastings.

                Further, even among the wines harvested in October and November, it was not truly a year for botrytized rieslings.  As most Germans drink primarily dry wines today anyway, this was not a problem for the domestic market.  Quite the contrary, the dry rieslings from the Pfalz were among the highlights of the vintage.  On the other hand, those readers looking for Germany ’s inimitable ausleses, beerenausleses or even richer wines will find a dearth of choices in this category—not in quality but in volume.  While 2006 will be remembered for its wealth of noble late-harvest rieslings but not much else, such wines were even then only a fraction of the total production.  In 2007 there were even fewer of them.

                Dr. Manfred Prüm of Joh. Jos. Prüm in Wehlen describes 2007 as cross between 2005 and 2004.  “The wines have the flesh of the 2005s and the bracing acidity of the 2004s,” he explained.  At its best, I still prefer the 2004s for their purity, but 2007 certainly marks a progression in German viticulture.  While the finest 2004s may be marginally superior to the 2007s, I have seldom tasted such a large range of excellent wines as this year.  It is true that many of them are dry, especially in Rheinhessen and the Pfalz, but that in any case is where the market is moving.  Sure, dry German riesling is still not yet what Americans are drinking, but demand is beginning to grow in that direction in the U.S. as well.

                In a nutshell, 2007 was a spätlese vintage.  The ausleses were often hardly better, if at all, than the spätleses from the same vineyard.  Moreover, those trying to shoot beyond the mark often ended up falling short.  While the Saar and Ruwer were only marginally convincing, the middle stretches of the Mosel fared much better, with Fritz Haag and Joh. Jos. Prüm having the best overall collections, followed closely by Heymann-Löwenstein (in his own personal style), Schloss Lieser and Willi Schaefer.

However, it was again the Nahe that probably had some of the finest overall results.  That is certainly the case for the top five estates, among which I now include Dr. Crusius.  All five had an excellent vintage, but it is true that the region does not have much depth beyond that.  The Rheingau, on the other hand, has a far larger number of good, if not always stunning, producers, many of which did quite well this year.  But there was a slight lack of purity in many of the ostensibly great rieslings, probably due to problems of rot.  Interestingly, the most convincing wines came not from Leitz, Spreitzer or Weil this year, but from Schloss Johannisberg and Schloss Schönborn.  The other big surprises this year were Matthias Müller on the Mittelrhein and Wagner-Stempel in Rheinhessen, both of which made excellent wines in ’07 and must now be viewed as first-string estates.

                However, there are also a number of other German winegrowing regions that I do not cover here, either for lack of space or due to the fact that the wines are little seen in America, that nonetheless deserve brief mention, especially as distribution is beginning to change.  We may see more of them in the future.

Baden, the region on the eastern banks of the Rhine across from Alsace, is a good example.  With 40,000 acres of vineyards, and thus Germany ’s third-largest growing region, it is at the forefront of domestic demand, for more popular than the Mosel .  Here, estates like Huber (Valkenberg) and Salwey (Rudi Wiest) both make exceptional dry wines.  Bernhard Huber made two of Germany’s best pinot noirs this year, with the 2006 Wildenstein (94) and Schlossberg (94) being my favorites.  Salwey also makes excellent pinot noirs, but it was his 2006 Oberrotweiler Henkenberg Grauer Burgunder Grosses Gewächs (93) that stole the show.  It was Germany ’s best pinot gris.  The pinot blanc from the same site was almost as good.

                In neighboring Württemberg, with not quite 30,000 acres Germany ’s fourth largest growing area, it is the red wines that merit more serious attention.  Gert Aldinger made the region’s best Lemberger with his 2006 Fellbacher Lämmler iii (92), and Rainer Schnaittmann (Rudi Wiest) took that honor for pinot noir with his Simonroth “R” (91).

                Although it is the large wineries in Würzburg that abroad are the best-known estates from Franken, the leading producer there today is Paul Furst (Rudi Wiest) in Burgstadt, who earned kudos this year for both his 2007 Pinot Blanc “R” (92) from the Centgrafenberg vineyard and his 2006 Pinot Noir “R” (92) from the same site.  With only 15,000 acres of vineyard, this region is small, but still larger than the Nahe, Rheingau or Mittelrhein.

                Lastly, at least in size, there is the Ahr.  With only slightly more than 1,000 acres of vineyard area it is not only tiny but also one of Germany ’s most northerly regions.  Global warming has made it easier to produce pinot noir on the steep, south-facing schist slopes and there are now four producers of note there, the most famous of whom is certainly Werner Näkel from Meyer-Näkel (Rudi Wiest) in Dernau, who recently won the international red wine prize in the Decanter wine challenge, besting efforts not only from Burgundy but from the rest of the world as well.  My favorite wine of his this year was the 2006 Walporzheimer Kräuterberg Grosses Gewächs (93), which was one of my top ten German reds.

                In fact, 36% of Germany ’s over 250,000 acres of vineyard are now planted with red varieties.  When I moved to Germany 25 years ago, that number was more like 10%, with most of the crop used to make rosés.  Today almost all of the harvest is fermented to red wine.  With 30,000 acres of pinot noir, Germany cultivates one of the largest areas of this grape outside Burgundy and some of it can be extremely good, as I have highlighted where appropriate.

                German grand cru.  At the cutting edge of dry riesling, with less than nine grams per liter of residual sugar, stand the German grand crus:  variously labelled as Erstes Gewächs in the Rheingau (but with a maximum of 13 g/l r.s.), Erste Lage in the Mosel (Erste Lage on the Mosel means only “great site”; these wines can carry no Prädikat and are to be dryish in style, with a maximum of about 25 g/l r.s., or bear kabinett, spätlese and the like if they are sweeter), or Grosses Gewächs for most of the rest of the country.   Moreover, the same system applies not only for riesling, but, where permitted, for pinot gris, pinot blanc, silvaner and pinot noir as well.  As these are certainly Germany ’s best dry wines, and dry or off-dry styles now account for about three-quarters of domestic consumption, I have highlighted them where appropriate in the sections below.

                It is true that most of the Grosses Gewächs are still made in only limited quantities, but their number is growing.  Last year over a million bottles of some 400 different wines were given a seal of approval.  Still, 50 cases of a given item for the American market is often a tall order, and 100 an exception.  In that light, these wines are like the finest crus from Burgundy , which are generally rare and spread thinly around the world.  As I have often written, I think that for at least the whites these are some of Europe ’s most underrated wines.

While German exports to America have risen dramatically over the past seven years, the weak dollar over much of this period has put a cap on growth.  Although the American currency has strengthened dramatically in relation to the Euro over the past several months, it is too early to say what effect this will have on sales.  It will certainly be positive, but may not be sufficient to stimulate demand in a sluggish economy.

When to drink the 2007s.  As the 2007 vintage resembles 2004 or 2001 in structure, I would expect the wines to evolve in a similar fashion.  Because these wines are so crisp and fresh, the dry examples are lovely to drink now, but should mature beautifully over the next three to five years.  With only a few exceptions, though, I would generally advise drinking them before their seven or eighth birthday.  The 2004s are lovely today and the 2001s at their peak.

The off-dry rieslings of 2007, as well as many of the kabinetts, will have a similar development, but should still be drinking nicely on their tenth birthdays.  As I prefer to drink these wines while they retain freshness, I don't generally lay them down any longer than that.  The spätleses, on the other hand, should mature at a slower pace:  some of the young ’07s reminds me of 1975s, which are often still stunning.  You don't need to cellar the 2007s nearly that long, but note that there is typically a phase between the third and seventh year when they will have lost their luscious, youthful fruit but not yet shed their obvious sweetness or developed the complexity that makes them so unique as they mature.

Although many of the ausleses were hardly better than the spätleses from the same site, they may gain with age, especially if their density and weight slowly become more ethereal.  However, as these wines are quite sweet, they will need literally decades before they can be served other than on their own or with dessert.  The spätleses, on the other hand, can even be paired with a main course after 20 years?? of cellaring.

Mittelrhein

After the shock from last year’s difficult harvest, most estates picked a bit too early, before the grapes were physiologically ripe, engendering a bitter green acidity that tainted many wines.  When they waited too long, however, the rieslings lost their structure, so that the spätleses were often better than the ausleses—and very little above that level was harvested in 2007.

Must weights on the whole were not as high as last year, which means that there was much more kabinett made than in 2006.  Surprisingly, many of the wines refused to ferment completely, leaving a large selection of off-dry rieslings at the top estates:  for example, Florian Weingart made six and Matthias Müller five.  But in this case, necessity may have been the mother of invention.  The sweet wines that are so popular abroad are not flying out of the cellars in Germany , where most of the wines from the Mittelrhein are sold.  Consumers there are looking to drier styles and like the balance that the feinherb (off-dry) rieslings offer.

Beyond Weingart and Müller, Toni Jost and, in particular, Jochen Ratzenberger both turned in fine performances, but on the whole the vintage is a mixed bag.  Thomas Perll (Vineyard Research, Lunenberg , MA ), who was long one of the most consistent producers in the region, appeared very upbeat about 2007.  However, after several lackluster performances over the past two vintages, I was again not able to follow his enthusiasm, giving only 87 points to a Mandelstein Riesling Auslese, which was his best effort.  Jens Didinger, on the other hand, bounced back after less-than-impressive 2006s, but with only ten acres of vineyards, much of whose production is sold at his own wine bar, Americans are unlikely to ever see the wines.  Given their attractive pricing, though, they are worth looking for if you travel through this romantic stretch of the Rhine valley.

Only a handful of wines from the 25 other estates from the region that I tasted this year merit attention, but producers like Friedrich Bastian, Randolf Kauer, Lanius-Knab, Toni Lorenz and Selt also make good riesling.  The area under vine on the Mittelrhein now appears to have stabilized at just over a thousand acres.  At least in Germany , the region is being taken much more seriously by buyers looking for value, which most of these rieslings have to offer.  That said, the four top estates made ample volumes of mouthwatering kabinetts and spätleses.  These are the wines that consumers justly associate with this region.

Toni Jost/Hahnenhof, Bacharach.  After two very short vintages, Peter Jost was very pleased with 2007.  It had been tough to tell his clients that he had nothing to sell.  “The old saw is that winemakers always complain,” he says, “but that was not the case in 2007.  We had both volume and quality, which do not always come hand in hand.”  That said, the must weights were not so overblown this year, which provided the wines with good balance with a touch less alcohol.  In particular, the dry rieslings were successful, as was the TBA, which is one of the best wines of the vintage on the Mittelrhein.   Peter Jost is now planting another four acres higher up the hill in the stunning Hahn vineyard, with its steep southerly exposure, where his finest wines have always been sourced. “The temperatures are on average one degree centigrade cooler up there,” he explains.  “With global warming, we need cool-climate fruit to maintain our light, refreshing style.”  (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset , NY )

2007 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewächs:  Distinguished aromas of papaya, mango and yeasty bread.  The succulent fruit displays good weight and is animated by vibrant acidity.  Finishes with noteworthy depth and nutty spice.  One of the best dry rieslings from the region in ‘07.  90.  2007 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spätlese ($40):  Classic aromas of apple blossom, pear and wild strawberry.  The subtle tropical fruit flavors are underpinned by luscious depth and crisp minerality.  Finely balanced residual sugar on the spicy finish.  88.  2007 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Auslese ($174??):  Ripe peach, lime and smoke on the nose.  The vibrant fruit is succulent but a touch heavy.  Richer but not better than the spätlese.  87.  2007 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Beerenauslese:  Golden yellow.  Salty aromas of ripe apricot, bergamot and herbal botrytis.  Lusciously sweet tropical fruits pour creamily but almost cloyingly over the palate.  Weighty, but without an ethereal dimension.  89.  2007 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese:  Rich golden yellow.  Sultry aromas of candied apricot, wild honey and rich, spicy botrytis.  Sumptuous papaya works sensually on the palate.  Extemely pure for a wine with so much density.  At once rich and crisp on the elegant finish.  94.  Also recommended:  2007 Bacharacher Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2007 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Devon S (86), 2007 Bacharacher Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (85).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2007 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, 2007 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Kabinett.

Matthias Müller, Spay.  When Armin Diel and I named this estate our “Newcomer of the Year” ten years ago in our German Wine Guide, no one had much heard of Matthias Müller.  His estate is now not only a member of Germany ’s association of top wine estates (VDP), but also one of the stars of the Mittelrhein.  His 2007 collection, which he describes as “picture-perfect,” is certainly the finest of the vintage in the region, surpassing even that of Florian Weingart.  All the while, his rieslings remain very fairly priced.  With over 27 acres of vines, he now also has the volume to be visible to a wider audience.  As I wrote last year, these wines stand out due to their wild-yeast fermentations, and some consumers find the style difficult to understand, but the overall quality is excellent, from dry and off-dry (feinherb) to the seductive spätlese “MM,” the finest of the vintage on the Mittelrhein.  (Savio Soares Selections, New York , NY ; Vintage Wine Marketing, Napa , CA )

2007 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben ($29):  Lively aromas of peach pit, blackcurrant and lemon oil.  The crisp fruit and discreet minerality are nicely balanced, masking the depth of this dry wine.  Finishes with a pleasing spiciness.  89.  2007 Bopparder Hamm Mandelstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs:  Fresh bouquet of apricot, pineapple and clove.  Richer than the old-vines selection from the Feuerlay but more elegant in spite of its weight.  Crisp and spicy on a surprisingly long finish.  90.  2007 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken “MM”:  Pure aromas of apricot, sweet lime and pine nuts.  The succulent tropical fruit flavors are nicely balanced by spicy acidity.  Persistent, elegant and refreshing on the finish.  88.  2007 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese ($28):  Ripe aromas of apricot, mint and nut oil.  The upfront weight of the surprisingly refreshing fruit on the palate gives way to mineral salts and acacia honey.  The elegantly sweet finish shows a fine balance.  91.  2007 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Riesling Spätlese “MM” ($36):  Complex aromas of wild peach, passion fruit and ginger.  The rich depth of succulent fruit is animated by an elegant acid structure that draws out the flavor and contributes to an impression of poise.  Long, aristocratic finish.  The finest spatlese of the vintage on the Mittelrhein.  92.  2007 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Auslese:  Pale golden yellow.  Very ripe aromas of apricot, tangerine and mint.  The luscious yet juicy tropical fruit flavors belie the crisp acidity that gives the wine its depth and structure.  Richer but not better than the estate’s finest spätlese.  At once unctuous and elegant on the finish.  91.  2007 Bopparder Hamm Mandelstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese:  Rich golden yellow.  Very rich aromas of candied peach, vanilla and spicy botrytis.  The succulent papaya fruit and spicy acidity make this wine appear light and refined despite its weight and density.  Long, salty and distinguished on the finish.  94.  Also recommended:  2007 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2007 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2007 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2007 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (88), 2007 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2007 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (87).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling.

Jochen Ratzenberger, Steeg.  Each year Jochen Ratzenberger and Toni Jost joust for the prize of best wine collection from the historic village of Bacharach .  This year Ratzenberger had the upper hand.  There was not a single poor riesling in the line-up—and the finest had both weight and stature.  The two Grosses Gewächs are at the top of their class from the Mittelrhein, the Posten Spätlese Halbtrocken one of the top 20 of its ilk in Germany , and the Wolfshöhle Spätlese eminently satisfying.  Ratzenberger’s success, though, came at price, with a third less crop than normal.  “Fortunately 2008 is looking to be a normal vintage,” he said, “and consumers will enjoy the lighter, more classical style.”  ( Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown , NJ )

2007 Steeger St. Jost Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($45):  Pear, sweet lime and cinnamon on the nose.  Crisp, clean fruit and a refreshing acidity drive the palate.  Precise and focused, with a long, spicy finish.  Tantalizing!  90.  2007 Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($48):  Complex aromas of peach pit, sage and pine nuts.  Dense apricot fruit extract framed by nicely integrated acidity and mineral depth.  Shows exotic spice on the long finish.  My top dry riesling of the vintage from the Mittelrhein.  91.  2007 Bacharacher Posten Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken ($27):  Harmonious aromas of citrus fruit, acacia honey and spice.  Tropical fruit flavors show a subtle complexity, along with good depth and firm acidity.  The lively finish makes this fun to drink.  A fine effort.  89.  2007 Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Spätlese ($28):  Delicate aromas of apricot pit, quince and licorice.  Succulent fruit flavors are lush and gripping, not to mention subtle on the palate.  The luscious, appealing finish boasts good spicy backbone.  A serious style.  90.  2007 Bacharacher Kloster Fürstental Riesling Eiswein ($140 for 375 ml.):  Golden yellow.  Candied citrus, cinnamon apple and mincemeat on the very pure nose.  The luscious tropical fruit flavors belie the bracing acidity at the back of the palate.  The long finish is noteworthy more for elegance than richness.  90.  Also recommended:  2007 Grauburgunder Trocken (85), 2007 Steeger St. Jost Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (86), 2007 Steeger St. Jost Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2007 Riesling Caspar L (85), 2007 Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Auslese (88).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Trocken.

Florian Weingart, Spay.  Florian Weingart long stood alone at the peak of the Mittelrhein, but must now make room at the top for Matthias Müller, a relative who lives only a hundred yards down the road in the small village of Spay .  Although spontaneous fermentations have always given Weingart’s wines their individual character, high must weights, low acidity levels and extended lees aging now provide these wines with a creamy depth that they have not had in the past.  Sometimes, though, this can be too much of a good thing.  Some of the 2007s, for example, did partial malolactic fermentations, and a few of the wines thus appear a touch overblown and brawny to the detriment of typicity.  But when he hits the mark he’s hard to beat.  The Ohlenberg Spätlese Feinherb, in particular, was one of the top three wines of its class in all of Germany in 2007.  This is a style that he is refining at the expense of more classical spätlese because, as says, “my clients find drier rieslings more drinkable.”  (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, New NY )

2007 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken i ($36):  Bright aromas of quince, balsam and mint.  Juicy, clean apricot fruit offers good depth, with lively acidity contributing to a crisp, refreshingly spicy finish.  88.  2007 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese Trocken i:  Bright aromas of apricot pit, lime oil and toasted almonds.  Juicy nectarine with refreshing acidity gives this deep wine good verve.  The finish combines generosity and finesse.  89.  2007 Bopparder Hamm Riesling Spätlese Feinherb:  Vibrant aromas of quince, mint and candle wax.  The palate offers crisp ?? fruit, a combination of good weight and juiciness, zingy acidity and uplifting minerality, with just a hint of sweetness.  Appealingly elegant finish.  A fine effort in this style.  89.  2007 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb ($36):  Seductive aromas of quince, mirabelle and orange.  Lusciously dense fruit is nicely framed by snappy acidity and a hint of salty minerality.  This substantial yet juice wine finishes with an elegant minty sweetness.  One of my top off-dry rieslings of the vintage in all of Germany .  91.  2007 Bopparder Hamm Riesling Spätlese ($40):  Subtle aromas of peach, ripe melon and mint.  Offers good weight on the palate, harmoniously juxtaposing bright passion fruit and crisp acidity.  Finishes satisfying and long, with a distinctly refreshing quality.  90.  2007 Bopparder Hamm Riesling Auslese:  Golden yellow color.  Opulent aromas of pineapple, mango and brown spice botrytis.  Juicy, full-bodied tropical fruit flavors display a refreshing, uplifting minerality.  Refined and spicy on the very rich finish.  92.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Kabinett Trocken Etwas Anders (86),  2007 Riesling Kabinett Trocken Spay (87),  2007 Schloss Fürstenberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86),  2007 Schloss Fürstenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (87), 2007 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Kabinett (86),  2007 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Riesling Spätlese Anarchie (88).  Also tasted:  2007 Riesling Halbtrocken.

Mosel

The Mosel has long been a synonym for ethereal, elegant rieslings.  In many cases it still is, but over the past few vintages I have tasted numerous wines with 14% alcohol, which in their dry or off-dry style were more reminiscent of wines from the southern stretches of the Rhine .  This probably has to do with global warming, which has its upside as well.  Since 1987, and with perhaps the exception of 1991, this region hasn’t really had a bad vintage.

A problem that arises with higher potential alcohol levels is lower acidity.  That is potentially dangerous, as a salty minerality underscored by bright acidity remains the hallmark of Mosel rieslings.  The better producers understand that they risk losing their identities in the global market if they don’t guard the region’s tradition of lacy, delicate wines, but even they are often taken by surprise.  In 2006, estates like that of Joh. Jos. Prüm harvested essentially nothing other than auslese, but all have clients who demand kabinetts for the market.  Even in the less ostentatious 2007 vintage, many of the kabinetts, and even most of the spätleses, are declassified ausleses.

That may sound like a bargain for the consumer, but the result is that the kabinetts and spätleses are richer than ever before.  And, very often, because the producers do not want the alcohol levels to rise too far, these wines carry higher residual sugars.  This may make the wines more impressive in a tasting, but often impairs their drinkability, at least until they have considerable bottle age.

Not surprisingly, many estates are turning to an off-dry style that they call feinherb, if they call it anything at all.  In some cases, as for example Heymann-Löwenstein, many of a producer’s best rieslings are made in this style.  Another estate, that of Kesselstatt, has even pushed completely dry rieslings to the fore under the banner of Grosses Gewächs.  In the more classical styles, though, 2007 was certainly a spätlese vintage—in spite of the early flowering, fine weather and Indian summer that made for almost perfect conditions—and those are the wines I would advise readers to look for.  There were also a few marvelous kabinetts, but very often the ausleses were only marginally better, if at all, than the spätleses from the same vineyard.  More is not necessarily better.

                The best values, though, remain to be found at the kabinett level, often from less-known producers who have done an excellent job in the vintage.  In many cases there was only a marginal difference in ripeness between the kabinett, spätlese and auslese, with the estates choosing the predicate to apply to a given label based on their assessment of the wine’s inner character and what the market would bear.

As my scores are generally very conservative, a kabinett rating 87 to 89 points is not only an excellent wine to drink but, given their lower residual sugars, a wine that tastes drier and can be more readily consumed in its youth.  Similarly, the most thirst-quenching spätleses are those I’ve rated 89 to 91 points that need only moderate cellaring before hitting the right balance.  Perhaps I should be scoring these wines with 93, 94 or 95 points, as some of my colleagues do, but I have tried to avoid grade inflation.

                Fritz Haag probably had the best overall collection in 2007, but he was certainly not alone.  Prüm, Lieser, Clemens Busch and Vollenweider also made impeccable wines, but seeing Willi Schaefer back in top form was one of the pleasures for me in this year’s tastings, as I have always liked to drink his rieslings.  Moreover, ever-new talent continues to emerge, with the most convincingly better wines being made this year by Adam in Dhron, Erbes in Ürzig, Dr. Hermann in Erden, Lubentiushof in Niederfell and Melsheimer in Reil.

I tasted the wines from 172 wineries on the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer over the course of the summer and fall.  Beyond the 22 estates from the middle stretches of the Mosel portrayed in full below, there are at least another two dozen that merit at least a short mention here, a number of which actually already deserve more space.  A new face last year for most readers was Karsten Becker from Becker-Steinhauer (Vineyard Research??, Lunenberg , MA ) in Mülheim.  After producing 2006s that were every bit as good as his 2005s, his artistry reached new heights in 2007:  witness the Veldenzer Kirchberg Riesling Kabinett (88) and the Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese (90), neither of which is expensive.  We will certainly hear more from this rising talent in the years to come.

The Bischöfliche Weingüter in Trier is, with 325 acres of vineyard and a total production of some 800,000 bottles, one of the largest wineries on the Mosel .  For years, though, there was little else to say about this estate.  However, since the arrival of Helmut Plunien in 2006 quality has begun to improve, with the 2007 Scharzhofberger Spätlese (88) and Kaseler Nies’chen Auslese (89) being perhaps harbingers of better times to come.  Eva Clüsserath from Ansgar Clüsserath (Terry Theise) in Trittenheim is married to Philip Wittmann from the eponymous estate in Rheinhessen.  Whether he had any input here is unclear, but the 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Trocken (90) is the best dry wine that I remember ever having tasted at this winery.  I also enjoyed the 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese (88) and Auslese (89) from the same site.  As always, the drier-style 2007 Riesling Fährfels (89) from Gerhard Eifel at Clüsserath-Eifel in Trittenheim also showed well, as did his show reserve, the 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese i (89), but on the whole it was not a spectacular vintage for this estate.

As he exports most of the 45,000 bottles he producer, Stefan Erbes from Karl Erbes (Billington Imports) in Ürzig remains relatively unknown in Germany .  Even I have only been tasting his wines regularly for the past seven years.  In that time, though, his wines have grown not only more consistent but also better.  This year, I particularly enjoyed his 2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (88) and Auslese ii (91) from the same site, but he also made a minute quantity of excellent beerenauslese (93) and trockenbeerenauslese (94) from the Würzgarten vineyard.

Long on value are the 2007 Piesporter Domherr Riesling Spätlese (88) and 2007 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese (89) of Gerd Haart from Joh. Haart (Billington Imports) in Piesport.  Also based in Piesport, Gernot Hain from Kurt Hain (Billington Imports) again had an excellent year.  I liked both of the two 2007 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätleses (88) and the Auslese (90) from the same site.

Rudi Herman and son Christian from Dr. Hermann in Erden (Boutique Wines, Philadelphia , PA ) were long relatively unknown, even to me, but that has changed dramatically over the past few vintages. In spite of what some would call their rather old-fashioned style, this is Mosel riesling at its best.  With a cornucopia of spätlese and auslese, 2007 played well in their hands.  As was the case last year, the 2007 Erdener Treppchen Herzlay Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule (89) and 2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Urglück Riesling Auslese (90) were my two favorites, but they also made two excellent TBAs (both 93) from the Treppchen and Prälat vineyards.  Were space available, this estate would merit full coverage.

Although Ernst-Josef and Werner Kees from Kees-Keeren in Graach were not quite as successful with their kabinett, I enjoyed the 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (87).  They did, however, make a couple of good ausleses and beerenausleses—including the 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese iii auction bottling (91)—as well as a superb TBA (93) from the same site.  Heribert Kerpen (Terry Teise) in Wehlen was again good but not more, with my favorite wine being his 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese i (87).

Karl-Josef Loewen from Carl Loewen (Terry Theise) in Leiwein continues to improve and has also become more consistent.  Even the entry-level wines were appealing this year. The 2007 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spätlese (87) and 2007 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Auslese #19 (90) are good examples of his finer art.  Andreas Barth, who is also the winemaker at von Othegraven on the Saar, has resurrected Lubentiushof (Frances Rose Import, Huntley , IL ) in Niederfell since he purchased it in 1994.  I first took a closer look at the wines in 1998 and since the 2005 vintage they have gone from strength to strength, with the 2007s being crisp, clear and nonetheless creamy from start to finish.  In particular, the flight of kabinett (87), spätlese (89) and auslese (90) from the Gans vineyard in Gondorf was exhilarating.  This estate merits more attention.

The wines from Thorsten Melsheimer (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY), a rising talent in the little-known village of Reil, also deserve more attention, in particular the 2007 Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Schäf Riesling Spätlese (90) and 2007 Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Schäf Riesling Auslese #31 (91); but even his wide range of dry rieslings was better this year than I had ever tasted before.  After less than inspiring 2006s, Alfred Merkelbach (Terry Teise) in Ürzig played a better hand this year, with his 2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese #20 (88) and Auslese #19 (89) from the same site being my top picks.

Markus Milz and his winemaker Thomas Hermes from Milz/Laurentiushof (Rudi Wiest) in Trittenheim have been irregular over the past decade.  While vintages like 1998 and 2005 were very good, 2007 does not quite live up to expectations. That said, both the 2007 Trittenheimer Felsenkopf Riesling Spätlese (87) and 2007 Trittenheimer Leiterchen Riesling Spätlese (87) make for pleasant drinking.  Robert Eymael from Mönchhof (Rudi Wiest) in Ürzig has also been anything but consistent this decade, with 2005 his best vintage to date.  This year was no exception:  other than the 2007 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese (90), the rest of the lot was less enthralling.

More inspiring across the board were the wines of Martin Müllen in Traben-Trarbach, a tourist haven generally less known for its fine wines. While both his 2007 Kröver Paradies Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben ii (88) and iii (88+?) were good, his 2007 Trarbacher Hühnerberg Riesling Auslese (89) was only marginally better, a result very common for the vintage.  Klaus and Olivier Jüngling from Paulinshof (Monarchia Matt International, Armonk , NY ) in Kesten, who were once deservedly well-known for their excellent off-dry wines, have been less successful recently.  My favorite wine this year was the sweeter 2007 Brauneberger Juffer Spätlese (87).

This year, the two most compelling wines from Stefan Pauly at Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler (Winesellers Ltd., Skokie , IL ) in Kues were the 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Alter Reben (87) and 2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese (87), with the 2007 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Alte Reben (90) being considerably richer.  One of the pleasant surprises this year was the renaissance of S. A. Prüm (Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton , FL ) in Wehlen.  After a number of weaker vintages, the 2006s already showed the first signs of what was to come. That said, Raimund Prüm and Gerd Faber have further improved quality this year, as the 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (88) and 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (89) amply prove.

After a surprising 2006 vintage, Josef Rosch in Leiwen was a touch less consistent in 2007.  Especially the dry rieslings, for which he is known in Germany , lacked inspiration. However, I was impressed by his 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese iii (88) and Auslese iii (90) from the same vineyard.  Stephan and Gerhard Studert from Studert-Prüm (Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL), were rather inconsistent in 2006 but on a more even keel this year, with the 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (87) and Auslese iii (89) both being very classic.  Bert Selbach from Dr. F. Weins-Prüm (Rudi Wiest), however, had a touch more luck in 2006.  Nonetheless, I marked the three 2007 spätleses from the Himmelreich, Domprobst and Sonnenuhr sites all with 87 points.  Finally, Norbert Breit has been doing an ever better job at Wegeler (Rudi Wiest) in Bernkastel, with the 2007 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Spätlese (90) and TBA (97) being particularly impressive.  If the entry-level wines showed more of that genius, this estate would certainly merit full coverage.

A. J. Adam, Dhron.  On the old Prussian maps, the Hofberg in Drohn was always counted among the finest sites on the Mosel and long belonged to the abbey in Tholey.  Although he has slowly been resurrecting the vineyard for several years, Andreas Adam only returned to his family estate in the spring of 2006 after finishing his studies in Geisenheim.  He is now enlarging his holdings (he currently makes only about 10,000 bottles a year), and these wines are certainly worth seeking out, especially the kabinett, which is one of the finest of its ilk in 2007.  (Terry Theise)

2007 Drohner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett ($34):  Apricot, quince and mint on the nose.  Succulent papaya fruit that is gripping but nonetheless subtle.  The appealing finish features a spicy backbone.  A picture-book kabinett!  90.  2007 Drohner Hofberg Riesling Spätlese ($56):  Sublime aromas of cling peach, passion fruit and wild herbs.  The rich depth of velvety passion fruit flavor is animated by an elegant acid backbone that gives the wine poise.  The persistent finish shows an aristocratic quality.  90(+?).  2007 Drohner Hofberg Riesling Auslese: Golden yellow color.  Delicate aromas of pineapple, mango and brown spice botrytis.  Juicy, full-bodied tropical fruit flavorss are framed and lifted by a refreshing minerality. Rich, refined and spicy on the finish, this is a stylish auslese.  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Drohner Hofberg Riesling Feinherb (87), 2007 Drohner Hofberg Riesling Beerenauslese (92).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Drohner Riesling Feinherb.

Clemens Busch, Pünderich.  Although Clemens Busch took over this estate in 1985, it has only been the last few vintages that have garnered international attention.  Long an organic producer, he turned to biodynamics three years ago and was admitted to the ranks of the VDP in 2007.  Not surprisingly, the focus of his production has long been dry and off-dry, but it has been the noble sweet wines that have set him apart.  Again in 2007, the finest Grosses Gewächs left me so perplexed that I have decided only to write about them next year, but the beerenauslese and trockenbeerenauslese were among the finest produced in Germany .  (Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland , OR )

2007 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule ($50): Bright aromas of apricot, sweet lime and pine nuts.  The luscious tropical fruit flavors are finely weighted and perfectly balanced by spicy acidity.  Elegant, refreshing and persistent on the finish.  90.  2007 Pündericher Marienburg Falkenlay Rothenpfad Riesling Auslese ($60 for 375 ml.):  Pale golden yellow.  Smoky aromas of apricot, orange and mint.  The lushly ripe tropical fruit flavors belie the crisp acidity that provides this wine with depth and structure.  At once unctuous and elegant on the finish.  91.  2007 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule ($123 for 375 ml.):  Golden yellow.  Complex aromas of ripe peach, vanilla and honeyed botrytis.  The lively fruit and spicy acidity make this auslese appear light and refined despite its weight.  This sumptuous auslese is long and distinguished on the finish.  93.  2007 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Beerenauslese Gold Capsule ($245 for 375 ml.):  Rich golden-yellow color.  Heady aromas of peach, fig, spearmint and smoky botrytis.  A full-throttle glazed apricot flavor shows a honeyed elegance.  Refreshing, buoyant and pure wine, with slate accents dominating its impressively long finish.  Both richer and more elegant than the long gold capsule auslese.  96.  2007 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ($448 for 375 ml.): Amber-gold.  Intense aromas of dried apricot, butterscotch and cinnamon waft over the honeyed botrytis tones.  Enormously concentrated peach syrup flavor is given grip by vibrant acidity.  With its incredibly long, haunting finish, this is my choice as the finest wine produced in Germany in 2007.  99.  Also recommended:  2007 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Trocken ii (86), 2007 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Spätlese (88), 2007 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Vom Rotem Schiefer (88), 2007 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (92), 2007 Pündericher Marienburg Falkenlay Riesling Beerenauslese (94).  Also tasted:  2007 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2007 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Kabinett.

Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, Ürzig.  I have often been critical of the quality produced here since Hans Leo Christoffel leased his vineyards to Robert Eymael from Mönchhof, where the wines are now made. While the elder Christoffel is still “actively retired,” as he describes it, the wines often lacked the depth and complexity that I had learned to expect from this estate.  After two fine performances in 2005 and 2006, the current lot was again underwhelming.  (Terry Theise)

2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese ii ($66):  Pale golden yellow.  Lively aromas of peach pit, honeysuckle and candied lemon. Bright and spicy, with a velvety, creamy texture to the plush apricot fruit.  Herbal essences heighten the appeal of the finish.  89.  2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese iii ($78):  Pale golden yellow.  Subtle aromas of strawberry and nut oil, plus a gentle hint of brown spice botrytis.  Fruit essences and mineral salts animate the rich yet delicate palate.  Somewhat austere on the finish.  90.  Also recommended:  2007 Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (85), 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (85), 2007 Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spätlese (86), 2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese ii (88).  Also tasted:  2007 Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett.

Jos. Christoffel Jr., Ürzig.  With a total production of only around 20,000 bottles of year, and much of that auslese, the wines of Karl-Josef Christoffel are little known, even in Germany .  But the wealth of mature vintages still available at the estate attests to the fact that he has been making fine rieslings for years.  For some, the style may appear old-fashioned in character, but each wine is beautifully expressive of its vineyard.  (ImportANT Wines, Venice , FL and Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland , OR )

2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese ($30):  Delicate aromas of strawberry, peach skin and pine nuts.  A rich lemon oil character and a smoky minerality enliven the creamy apricot fruit.  Well-balanced, long and satisfyingly complex.  88.  2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese ($33):  Pale golden yellow.  Quince, licorice and acacia blossom dominate the bouquet.  On the palate, creamy peach fruit is nicely framed by firm supporting acidity.  A tantalizing salinity provides clarity and purity on the long finish.  91.  2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese ii:  Pale golden yellow.  Aromas of peach pit, honeysuckle and sage.  The palate offers a velvety texture, with nice supporting acids providing shape and clarity.  Juicy apricot, mineral salts and nut oils join the slate on the pleasing finish.  90.  2007 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese iii ($60):  Pale golden yellow.  Heady aromas of strawberry, honeysuckle and nut oils are enhanced by the otherwise discreet botrytis.  For all its unctuous ripeness this wine retains plenty of elegance.   This rich, denses auslese remains bright on the deceptively elegant finish.  91.  2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese iii ($50):  Pale golden yellow.  Rich aromas of pear nectar, mint and sassafras waft over a hint of honeyed botrytis.  The decidedly creamy yet delicate palate is marked by apricot, brown spices and mineral salts.  Nut oils join the slate on the long finish.  92.  Also recommended:  2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (85), 2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (87).

Clüsserath-Weiler, Trittenheim.  The lion’s share of Helmut Clüsserath’s rieslings are made in a dry or an off-dry style, both of which turned out well in 2007.  Since the turn of the century, quality here has been very consistent.  Now that he has added a couple of acres to his portfolio, the help of his daughter Verena, who has completed her studies, is highly welcome.  (Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; Matt Brothers, Armonk , NY )

2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben ($45):  Lively aromas of apricot pit, lemon oil and sage.  A bright peach pit flavor with bracing acidity animates the palate.  Finishes crisp, clean and persistent.  88.  2007 Riesling Feinherb Fahrfels ($75):  Yellow plum, licorice and nut oil on the nose.  The creaminess, depth and concentration of the wine’s peachy fruit are a tribute to the old vines. Vibrant mineral salts keep the palate fresh.  Crisp and clean, this is eminently drinkable but also offers excellent aging potential.  89.  Also recommended:  2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (88), 2007 Mehringer Zellerberg Riesling Feinherb Alte Reben (88), 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese ii (89), 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Eiswein i (90), 2007 Trittenheimer Altärchen Riesling Eiswein ii (91).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Trittenheimer Altärchen Riesling Kabinett.

Grans-Fassian, Leiwen.  I have been critical of this estate over the past few vintages, especially in the context of its potential.  There were always a few spectacular wines, but quality was seldom consistent.  Gerhard Grans appears to have taken things in hand.  In any case, his 2007 collection has turned out nicely across the board, with the 2007 Trittenheimer Goldtröpchen Riesling Spätlese being my candidate as the best value in the cellar.  (Valckenberg)

2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese ($38):  Melon, mango and lemongrass dominate the nose.  Sweet and succulent, with flavors of mandarin orange, cherry pit and subtle slate.  Still a touch austere, but with an animated finish.  89.  2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese ($57):  Pale golden yellow.  Aromas of yellow plum, apple blossom and brown spice.  Behind the dense, deep tropical fruit flavors, a twist of lemon rind animates the finish.  Nicely balanced.  90.  2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($49 for 375 ml.):  Golden yellow.  Pear, peppermint and wild herbs on the nose, along with a waft of honeyed botrytis.  Glazed apricot and honey provide a creamy texture that is stimulated by saline acidity and insistent slate. Luxuriant but nonetheless elegant, finishing with noteworthy spicy length. 91.  Also recommended:  2007 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spätlese Trocken “S” (86), 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (87), 2007 Drohn-Hofberger Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (88), 2007 Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Trittenheimer Piesporter Riesling Spätlese (90), 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule (91), 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (93), 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (93).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling.

Fritz Haag, Brauneberg.  In only a few vintages, Oliver Haag has asserted himself as the new master of the Dusemonder Hof, as this estate in known in the village.  The old guard will long remember his father, Wilhelm, but the son has already put an indelible stamp on the wines.  His 2006s were breathtaking. The 2007s are cleaner, purer, and even more fun to drink, but perhaps without the same richness.  Nonetheless, his finest spätlese and TBA bottlings have few peers in Germany —and the auslese was the wine of the year in its category!  Thirteen wines with 90 points or more is not something many estates can match. Is Haag primus inter pares on the Mosel ?  (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($30):  Black cherry and lemon oil on the nose.  Tropical fruits studded with a hint of nutmeg enliven the palate.  The finish offers appealing balance.  87.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese ($35):  Elegant aromas of lemon candy, marzipan and acacia honey.  Well-balanced and elegant, with a velvety texture and a flavor of peach pit.  This pleasingly long spätlese finishes with lime, nut oils and slate.  90.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($45):  Lovely floral, peach and clove aromas.  Creamy apricot flavor on the palate, enlivened by a bracing saline character.  Finishes nicely with slate, lemon oil and a hint of nutmeg.  91.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese #14 (auction wine):  Pale golden yellow.  Lovely nose of pineapple, cling peach and wild sage.  The luscious papaya fruit flavor glides on an elegant framework of acids and slate.  At once delicate and concentrated, with a note of toasted hazelnut on the long, vibrant finish, this is one of the finest spätleses of the vintage, and destined to be long-lived.  94.   2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese ($50):  Pale golden yellow.  Aromas of apricot, acacia blossom and nut oil.  Unctuous but at the same time nicely balanced, with peach, wild herb and slate flavors joined by an elegant spicy character on the persistent, satisfying finish.  91.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($80):  Golden yellow.  Harmonious aromas of strawberry and brown spices waft over the honeyed botrytis.  Sweet apricot fruit and spicy pineappley acidity combine to give this auslese an airy texture.  But the finish is nonetheless quite luscious.  91. 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($100):  Pale golden yellow.  Rich bouquet of candied apricot, ginger and nut oil, plus a whiff of brown-spice botrytis.  The rich, juicy pineapple fruit and crisp slate animate the wine’s subtle, creamy texture.  Very nicely balanced wine with considerable promise, and seductive on the finish.  92.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule #15 (auction wine):  Golden yellow.  Sumptuous aromas of peach skin, ripe apricot and wild herbs waft over the honeyed botrytis. The rich, dense passion fruit flavor is creamy and silky, but nicely enlivened by an ethereal minerality.  This is fruit concentration with angel’s wings and must be the finest auslese of the vintage.  97.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese ($180 for 375 ml.):  Deep golden yellow.  Expressive aromas of candied pineapple, acacia honey and pine nuts in a rich bed of brown-spice botrytis.  Baked apricot and glazed honey flavors are kept vibrant by saline minerality.  Hints of caramel and sweet herbs add complexity on the very long, satisfying finish.  94.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ($300 for 375 ml.):  Rich golden yellow.  Showy aromas of candied peach, wild herbs and lemon oil float over the honeyed botrytis.  Flavors of candied, glazed pineapple laced with woodsmoke, vanilla and cinnamon animate the palate.  In spite of its sheer density, this wine displays excellent balance.  With a finish that’s virtually unending, this is one of the wines of the vintage, and one that offers enormous promise.  99.  Also recommended:  2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #10 (92), 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule #12 (93), 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule #13 (93).

Reinhold Haart, Piesport.  I was so enamored by Theo Haart’s 2005s that I thought this estate would soon challenge Haag, Prüm and Müller for preeminence on the Mosel .  Although things haven’t quite turned out that way, his 2006s and 2007s are first-rate, as the marks below demonstrate.  Above all, without doing individual cask bottlings, his Goldtröpchen trio—the kabinett, spätlese and auslese—is hard to beat in 2007.  In terms of sheer drinkability, the kabinett is a sleeper!  (Rudi Wiest).

2007 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Kabinett Erste Lage ($40):  Fresh bouquet of bosc pear, pine nuts and apple blossom.  Delicately sweet on the palate, thanks to a nice interplay of apricot fruit and luscious citricity.  Finishes with lipsmacking elegance.  An exemplary kabinett.  89.  2007 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Spätlese Erste Lage ($50):  Yeasty aromas of fresh apple, tropical fruits and lemon oil.  Honeyed and rich, but with a delicacy to its papaya fruit, this spätlese is kept alive by its brisk acidity.  The deceptively spicy finish shows a clear and refreshing slate character.  91(+?).  2007 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Auslese Erste Lage ($56):  Pale golden yellow.  Distinguished aromas of pineapple, blackcurrant and sage.  The rich, buttery passion fruit flavor is nicely accentuated by the wine’s saline minerality.  Pure, crisp and decidedly light in spite of its sweetness, with glossy elegance and impressive length.  92.  2007 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Erste Lage (auction wine):  Golden yellow.  Apricot preserves, mango and clove over a bed of smoky botrytis on the nose.  The unctuous peach fruit and honeyed texture rise above the understated acidity.  Much richer than the normal auslese from the same site, this wine is still quite closed on the nonetheless persistent finish.  93.  Also recommended:  2007 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2007 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Feinherb (86), 2007 Piesporter Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Piesporter Gräfenberg Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Piesporter Domherr Riesling Spätlese (90), 2007 Piesporter Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese (90).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Riesling Haart to Heart.

Heymann-Löwenstein, Winningen.  The debate on the Mosel about just what is or should be “dry” has been broadly framed by Reinhard Löwenstein, who is skeptical about the aging potential of totally dry rieslings.  “At the level of ripeness necessary to make good dry rieslings,” he says, “the alcohols are too high when we try to imitate the Pfalz.  Further, the salty minerality [i.e., acidity??] of our wines profits from a hint of residual sugar.  Although the lawmakers call them off-dry, they taste dry.”  At least for his own wines, he is right—and the off-dry style that he labels merely as riesling not only works well with food but also ages gracefully.  Anything with higher levels of residual sugar—and these can be equally impressive here—is sold as auslese or upwards.  The surprise in 2007, though, was the sheer quality of the entry-level wines.  They were so good that the ostensibly better wines had difficulty asserting themselves. (Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco , CA ; Ewald Moseler, Portland , OR ; Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville , PA )

2007 Riesling Schieferterrassen ($33):  Subtle aromas of white pepper, flint and clove.  The wine’s guava flavor shimmers with fresh acidity.  A well-balanced wine with an appealingly fruity finish underpinned by slate.  88.  2007 Winninger Uhlen Laubach Riesling ($59):  Subtle aromas of peach pit, flint and lemon oil.  The crisp, vibrant pit fruit flavors and delicate acid structure belie the true weight of this essentially dry wine.  Well-balanced and impressively long, this is a pleasure to drink.  90.  2007 Winninger Röttgen Riesling ($44):  Fresh bouquet of apricot and pineapple with a hint of clove.  Richer than the Laubach but certainly as elegant, this off-dry riesling carries more weight.  A crisp, spicy finish and fine length put this wine at the pinnacle of its style.  91.  2007 Winninger Uhlen Blaufüsser Lay Riesling ($50):  Sumptuous bouquet of apricot, lemon grass and pine nuts.  The dense, almost sweet papaya flavor is animated by a lively saline minerality.  Well-balanced and vibrant, this is a distinguished off-dry riesling with impressive length.  91.  2007 Winninger Uhlen Roth Lay Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($84):  Golden yellow.  Exalted aromas of peach preserves, jellied fruits and honeyed botrytis.  In spite of the rich apricot fruit there is a more definite sense of slate here and a charge of acidity.  The long, glossy finish boasts a complex blend of sweet herbs and refined spiciness.  93.  2007 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule:  Rich golden yellow.  Subdued bouquet of peach pit, persimmon and quince over a bed of smoky botrytis.  The impression of lightness is deceiving, for this wine has an inner density and finishes slightly withdrawn, with notes of sage, maraschino and hazelnut.  Denser, and more marked by botrytis, but not better than the Roth Lay.  93.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Vom Blauen Schiefer (87+), 2007 Hatzenporter Kirchberg Riesling Erste Lage (88+?), 2007 Hatzenporter Stolzenberg Riesling Erste Lage (89), 2007 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (91), 2007 Riesling Beerenauslese Vom Blauen Schiefer (93), 2007 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Beerenauslese (93).

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Trier .  This estate remains a sure bet for any consumer looking for fine German riesling.  Not only does it produce 280,000 bottles a year, which makes them relatively easy to find, but all of it is good.  In the past few years, Kesselstatt has placed particular emphasis on the dry and off-dry styles, which have become consistently better.  In fact, few producers, if any, on the Mosel make as much good dry riesling as Kesselstatt.  That said, you can safely buy almost any kabinett or spätlese from this estate as well.  Although the Saar did not shine across the board this year, I thought the Scharzhofberger wines were the best here.  I nonetheless include the estate with the Mosel as the winery has excellent sites on the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer.  (Valkenberg)

2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett ($29):  Delicate aromas of peach, candied lemon and nut oil.  Glossy but elegant and quite full-bodied, this kabinett tastes crisp and pure.  The clean finish features lime and discreet slate.  88.  2007 Scharzhofbergerger Riesling Spätlese ($34):  Attractive floral, apple and hazelnut aromas.  The creamy texture of the peachy fruit is nicely paired with an understated acidity.  Nicely balanced but still somewhat withdrawn, this spätlese ends on a delicately spicy finish.  90.  2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese ($41):  Pale golden yellow.  Subtle aromas of papaya, passion fruit and clove.  The rich, creamy papaya fruit is laced with a fine saline minerality.  Elegant in spite of its depth, this auslese finishes on a note of slate.  90.  Also recommended:  2007 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2007 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2007 Josephshöfer Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2007 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Spätlese (88), 2007 Josephshöfer Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule #6 (90).

Reinhard & Beate Knebel, Winningen.  In spite of Reinhard Knebel’s suicide after the 2003 vintage, his widow Beate rightly decided to persevere. Although the 2006s were very good examples of her current aspirations, the 2007s are a play of light and shadow.  The dry and off-dry rieslings, with which this estate had built its reputation, were not up to par.  However, the auslese and trockenbeerenauslese were excellent.  (Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco , CA )

2007 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben ($51):  Aromas of peach pit, cherry blossom and nut oil.  Almost creamy in texture in spite of its juicy apricot fruit.  Persistent citrus flavors with a hint of slate make for an appealing finish.  88.  2007 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Auslese ($54 for 375 ml.):  Pale golden yellow.  Apricot, quince and persimmon dominate the nose.  The smoky, wet stone minerality keeps the sweet, ripe peach fruit in check.  Possessing more richness and depth than the spätlese, this auslese is both sweet and a touch austere on the understated finish.  90.  2007 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Auslese ($59 for 375 ml.):  Pale golden yellow.  Candied apricot, cloves and a touch of smoky botrytis on the nose.  Creamy tropical fruit flavors with salty minerality accentuate the palate.  This auslese is impressively rich, with lemon curd and slate animating a compelling finish.  93.  2007 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese:  Exuberant aromas of acacia blossom, cling peach and nut oil are wrapped in subdued brown-spice botrytis.  Lush mango and lemon custard flavors are supported by saline acids, giving this TBA an elegant viscosity.  Very pure and sophisticated on the impressively long finish, with a refreshing spice character.  97.  Also recommended:  2007 Winninger Hamm Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2007 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2007 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (86), 2007 Winninger Hamm Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2007 Winninger Hamm Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2007 Winninger Brückstück Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (86).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken Von Den Terrassen.

Schloss Lieser, Lieser.  Thomas Haag has now harvested 15 vintages at this estate and, as I wrote last year, essentially put the village of Lieser singlehandedly back on the map.  With choice morcels in the Juffer-Sonnenuhr site in Brauneberg that he inherited, he now has a doubly rich stock of vineyards from which to work and has for years made the best of both.  Although I am still no great fan of his dry wines, once a bit of residual sugar comes into play there are few estates that do it better.  As with so many of his colleagues in 2007, the kabinett and spätlese bottlings were at the core of this year’s offering.  On the other hand, the noble late-arvest wines were a touch irregular and often only marginally better.  When they were right, though, they were spot on.  (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($27):  Subtle aromas of pear, sweet herbs and lemon candy.  Glossy apricot fruit with harmonious mineral structure frames the palate.  With its subtly sweet finish featuring brown spice and pleasing length, this is one of the finest kabinetts of the vintage.  91.  2007 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spätlese ($35):  Peach, mango and a hint of honey on the nose.  The lush, sweet peach pit flavor with subtle spiciness is highlighted by the wine’s slate element. Well-balanced, extremely elegant and appealingly long, but not as animated as the kabinett.  89.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($37):  Lively aromas of nectarine, white peach and lime.  Elegant, spicy apricot fruit is framed by a tightly coiled spring of acidity.  Conveys a creamy texture and a strong impression of extract, with mineral salts lingering persistently on the convincing finish.  91(+?).  2007 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($42 for 375 ml.):  Pale golden yellow.  Supple aromas of ripe peach, mango and acacia honey, plus a hint of brown spice botrytis.  A flavor of glazed apricots and a creamy, glossy texture are infused with a sweet herbal spice.  Richer and denser than the spätlese, this auslese finishes with noteworthy length.  91.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule ($60 for 375 ml.):  Golden yellow.  Candied peach, papaya and acacia honey aromas waft over a bed of licorice botrytis.  The creamy tropical fruit flavors are shaded by a sweet herbal note.  Remains pure, shapely and slatey on the unctuous finish.  92.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule (auction wine):  Golden yellow.  Expansive aromas of candied tropical fruits, baked apple and lemon oil covered in spicy botrytis.  Sweet and luscious on the palate, with notes of apricot preserves and acacia honey, this wine finishes with pure flavors of nougat and candied lemon.  With its excellent depth and length, this is a show-stopping auslese.  95.  2007 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Beeerenauslese ($165 for 375 ml.):  Golden yellow.  Pear preserves, honey and a subtle note of smoky botrytis on the nose.  Very bright dried apricot fruit and insistent slate set the tone for this rich and creamy wine.  Plays astonishingly long, finishing with sweet herbal spices.  With perhaps more brawn than elegance, this beerenauslese is not necessarily better than the long gold capsule auslese.  95.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ($395 for 375 ml.):  Rich golden yellow.  Deeply pitched aromas of candied pineapple, cling peach and dates, complicated by honeyed botrytis.  Creamy glazed apricot on the palate, with a succulent texture invigorated by brown spices and pure saline minerality.  With its stunning depth and length, this is a great TBA.  96.  Also recommended: 2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2007 Riesling Kabinett (85), 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Auction Wine (89), 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (90), 2007 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese (90), 2007 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule (92).  Other wines tasted: 2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Lieser Niederberger Helden Riesling Spätlese Trocken, 2007 Riesling Feinherb.

Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel.  Ernie Loosen has long danced to his own drummer.  In some vintages his wines are almost overblown in their richness, while in others they are the pinnacle of elegance.  Although his finest 2006s were some of the greatest wines of that vintage, the entry-level Rieslings were a touch less convincing.  In 2007, I was not at all enamored with his dry wines and, among the noble late-harvest wines, only the Prälat Gold Capsule Auslese truly sang.  Perhaps I have been a touch too critical, but this does not appear to be a particularly great vintage for this estate.  (Loosen Brothers, Portland , OR )

2007 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese ($42):  Pale golden yellow.  Baked apple, sweet herbs and quince jelly on the nose.  Extremely elegant and airy in spite of its density, with pineapple fruit giving way to cinnamon and slate.  Fine, spicy finish.  90.  2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ($42):  Pale golden yellow.  Subtle aromas of white peach, pineapple and persimmon.  Offers a velvety texture, but the ripe apricot flavor is nicely framed by understated flinty acidity.  Spicy but a bit withdrawn on the supple, persistent finish.  90.  2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($75):  Golden yellow with a greenish tinge.  Captivating aromas of mandarin orange, kiwi and lemon oils complicated by honeyed botrytis.  The wine’s peach preserve and creamed honey flavors are nicely leavened by saline minerality, which leads to a long, spicy finish.  90.  2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($75):  Golden yellow.  Pleasing aromas of raspberry, acacia honey and brown spices waft over delicate, smoky botrytis.  Deft, sweet apricot fruit and elegant acidity combine to give the wine an almost chiffon-like character.  The intense minerality guarantees a long finish.  A convincing auslese.  91.  2007 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($58 for 375 ml.):  Golden yellow.  Rich aromas of mango, candied quince and lemon oil mingle with spicy botrytis.  Intense, deep flavors of rich pit fruits and glazed honey are nicely framed by the wine’ elegant saline minerality.  This massive auslese is certainly the finest in Loosen’s line-up this vintage, but will need time to reveal its potential.  93.  Also recommended:  2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (85), 2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett (85), 2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (86), 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (87), 2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese (89), 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Eiswein (91), 2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Beerenauslese (91).  Also tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken Blauschiefer, 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trocken, 2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Trocken Alte Reben, 2007 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett (86).

Meulenhof, Erden.  Although Stefan Justen is now responsible for making the wines at the estate of Stephan Ehlen as well, it is those from his own winery that have rapidly risen out of anonymity over the past few vintages.  The 2006s were exceptionally good and the trio of spätleses in 2007 offers excellent value for money.  In that light, any restaurant looking for a pouring wine should try the simple riesling.  At $22?? for a liter bottle it is surprisingly delicious.  (Terry Theise)

2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese ($26):  Crisp bouquet of apricot pit and papaya with a hint of clove.  Rich and almost creamy, this wine is driven by insistent, juicy, ripe acidity. Very expressive and pleasingly persistent.  88.  2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($26):  Tangerine and lemon candy on the nose.  Crisp and assertive on the palate, this finishes with a rush of slate.  Richer and creamier than the kabinett from the same site, this spätlese is also considerable more graceful.  Nice length.  89.  2007 Erdener Prälat Riesling Spätlese ($30):   Vivid aromas of kiwi, toasted almond and lime oil.  Polished and elegant papaya flavor shows verve and noteworthy intensity.  Mineral salts, sweet herbs and brown spices join in a finish animated by a keen blade of slate.  89.  Also recommended:  2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese Trocken i (85), 2007 Riesling (85), 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (85), 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Beerenauslese (91).  Also tasted: 2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Riesling Halbtrocken, 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese Trocken.

Markus Molitor, Bernkastel-Wehlen.  I tasted 47 wines from this estate this year.  In order to document that most are very good and some excellent, I have described only a handful of the rieslings, but listed most of the rest under “also recommended” for your perusal.  With 100 acres of vineyards in more than 20 excellent sites, it is not surprising that Markus Molitor’s offering is a nightmare for the uninitiated.  Add to that the confusing system of stars, plus the fact that there are sometimes two or three bottlings of the same wine with widely varying degrees of alcohol, and the hall of mirrors is complete. That said, the wines are always worth the price of entry—and no one on the Mosel makes better pinot noir.  (Wein-Bauer, Inc., Franklin Park , IL )  NO LONGER ##

2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese Feinherb:  Lively aromas of pineapple, quince and clove.  In spite of its rich, oily palate with a strong suggestion of peach extract, this off-dry wine remains sleek and fine.  With its subtle, toasted nuttiness on the finish, this riesling is already very approachable.  88.  2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 7.5%:  Refreshing aromas of white peach, lemon candy and hazelnut.  Glossy and quite full, this is a rich kabinett with impressive depth and satisfying length.  An element of toasted almonds adds complexity.  90.  2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese:  Subtle bouquet of gooseberry and nut oil with a trace of something floral.  On the palate the creamy papaya flavor is counterpointed by citrus and slate.  Finishes persistent, with an amalgamation of spices and mineral salts.  91.  2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese:  Elegant aromas of cherry, apple blossom and pine nut.  Sweet and creamy on the palate, with peach and apricot pit flavors strongly tinged by herbs, nuts and vanilla.  Offering excellent balance, this spätlese finishes with a nice underlying sense of slate.  91.  2007 Niederhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese ii:  Golden yellow.  Heady aromas of mango and passion fruit are covered by a hint of smoky botrytis.  Rich, full-bodied tropical fruit flavors show a creamy texture underpinned by discreet acidity. Crisp, lively and finely balanced, this auslese finishes with a mouthwatering succulence.  92.  Also recommended: 2007 Riesling Trocken (85), 2007 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2007 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (87), 2007 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (88), 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (88), 2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese Feinherb (80), 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 10.5% (87), 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett #6 (88), 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (87), 2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese (88), 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 12% (88), 2007 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (88), 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 7.5% (90), 2007 Niederminninger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese (90), 2007 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (90), 2007 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese ii (88), 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese i (88), 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ii (89), 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese i (89), 2007 Niederminninger Herrenberg Riesling Auslese ii (90), 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese iii (90), 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese ii (90), 2007 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Auslese (91), 2007 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese ii  (91), 2007 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese ii (91), 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ii (91), 2007 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Beerenauslese  i (92), 2007 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Eiswein (96), 2007 Bernkasteler Graben Riesling Eiswein (96), 2006 Brauneberger Mandelgarten Pinot Noir i (86), 2006 Brauneberger Klostergarten Pinot Noir ii (88), 2006 Brauneberger Klostergarten Pinot Noir iii (90), 2006 Graacher Himmelreich Pinot Noir iii (91).

Joh. Jos. Prüm, Wehlen.  Dr. Manfred Prüm describes the 2007 vintage as a cross between 2005 and 2004. “The wines have the flesh of the 2005s paired with the saline minerality of the 2004s,” he says.  He was also pleased that the vintage allowed him to make a few kabinetts that were not all too clearly spätlese in character.  That said, it was a cornucopia of ausleses that marked the style of the vintage here, three of which were among the top ten in their class in all of Germany .  Add to this the inimitable style of this estate and you have a bevy of wines that I wouldn’t mind having in my own cellar.  (Various importers, including Valkenberg and Rudi Wiest)

2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese Feinherb:  Discreet aromas of ripe apricot, lime oil and clove.  The rich peach fruit and creamy texture are subdued by the fine slate.  Finishing clear, long and with an oily cling, this is a very nice off-dry style.  89.  2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett ($45):  Delicate aromas of cherry, apple blossom and sweet herbs.  Firm apricot pit flavor, with a nice balance of sweetness and acidity to frame the palate.  The elegant finish features persistent slate minerality.  An excellent kabinett.  89.  2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese ($48):  Fresh bouquet of bosc pear and acacia blossom.  The palate offers a delicate sweetness, with an attractive interplay of apricot and saline soil tones.  This rich spätlese finishes with lipsmacking elegance.  89.  2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese ($50):  Green apple, lemon oil and clover on the nose.  Light and lively yet velvety on the palate.  Rose petal and saline minerality mingle on the crisp, well-balanced, lipsmacking finish, which is long and elegant.  90.  2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($56):  Elegant aromas of Bing cherry, apple blossom and roasted pine nuts.  Sweet, delicate and nonetheless creamy on the palate, with sweet herbs and a touch of vanilla.  Lemon curd and slate animate this serious spätlese’s compelling finish.  91.  2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese #24 (auction wine):  Exotic bouquet of passion fruit and mango, lifted by a fine floral element.  The luscious peach pit flavor and velvety texture are framed by a finely chiseled minerality.  Dense but airy, this spätlese shows excellent character and length.  One of the stars of the vintage.  93.  2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese ($55):  Pale golden yellow.  Subdued aromas of passion fruit, lime oil and wild herbs.  The sweet tropical fruit flavors are highlighted by a refreshing gingery acidity that keeps the palate light in spite of the wine’s density.  Elegant but also quite full-bodied, this auslese finishes on spice and slate.  92.  2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #16:  Pale golden yellow.  Classy bouquet of ripe apple, vanilla and sweet herbs.  Rich on the palate, with a salty, resinous character and undeniably sweet apricot fruit.  Unctuous yet vibrantly spicy, with a long, complex finish.  This still needs time but will be a great auslese.  94.  2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule #12:  Golden yellow.  Christmas fruitcake with cherry, white raisin and honeyed botrytis on the nose.  Glossy, creamy and rich on the palate, with fine slate, brown spice and floral elements woven into a braid of flavors.  The botrytis component adds complexity on the complex, mineral-driven finish.  What an auslese!  95.  2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule #12 (auction wine):  Golden yellow.  Noble aromas of orange blossom, vanilla and lemon candy are wrapped in subdued brown-spice botrytis.  Vanilla cream and mango are supported by uplifting acids, giving this wine a lush structure and elegant viscosity.  Finishes with outstanding length and a refreshing spiciness. This very impressive wine is one of my three top ausleses of the vintage.  96.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (88), 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese #15 (92), 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese #17 (92), 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #22 (94), 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Auction Wine (94).

Max Ferdinand Richter, Mülheim.  Dr. Dirk Richter has become ever more consistent over the past few vintages.  As before, I still tend to avoid the dry rieslings here, but the rest of each year’s collection can be mouthwatering.  In particular, the kabinetts are often very good, as is the Graacher Himmelreich in 2007, and sometimes as good as many of the spätleses and ausleses.  (Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles , CA ; The Shaw Agency, Scarsdale , NY )

2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett ($24):  Lively aromas of peach and lemongrass.  Elegant apple fruit with a firm acid structure keep this wine balanced and light.  Perhaps more fun than serious, but definitely a pleasing kabinett to drink.  88.  2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($31):  Subtle bouquet of white peach, blackcurrant and sage.  Glossy papaya flavor with an understated acidity on the palate.  The satisfying finish features and herbal nuance and a touch of slate.  89.  2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese ($28): Elegant aromas of apricot pit, strawberry and lemon oil.  Glossy bosc pear flavor with a discreet saline acidity form the backbone of this nicely balanced spätlese.  The pleasingly long finish offers a splash of mineral salt and lemon.  90.  2007 Müllheimer Sonnenlay Johannisberg Riesling Auslese #128 ($52 for 375 ml.):  Pale golden yellow.  Aromas of tangerine and vanilla, lifted by a floral element.  At once creamy and elegant, with papaya flavor complicated by refreshing salts and toasted almond.  Nice layers of sweet flavor linger on the finish of this well-balanced riesling.  90.  Also recommended:  2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2007 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (88), 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (89), 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (92).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Classic, 2007 Mülheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett Feinherb.

Sankt Urbanshof, Leiwen.  With 80 acres of prime vineyards and a total production of 250,000 bottles a year, Nik Weiss owns and manages one of the larger private properties on the Mosel . Typically, his off-dry rieslings are my favorites, but in 2007 it was the trio of spätlese bottlings that crowned the collection. None are as rich as his excellent 2006s, but they are all more classic in style—and, as always, offer good value for money.  In that light, his simple estate riesling is a steal.  (H. B. Wine Merchants, New York , NY )

2007 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spätlese Feinherb Erste Lage ($50):  Rich bouquet of apricot and lemongrass.  The dense, sweet peach flavor is animated by a lively saline minerality.  This well-balanced, vibrant and attractive off-dry riesling finishes with good spicy length.  88.  2007 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese ($40):  Bright aromas of peach pit, lemon oil and clove.  Juicy, elegant passion fruit flavor is enlivened by vibrant acidity and a perfumed floral element.  At once dense and glossing, with a pleasing spiciness and an appealing finish.  89.  2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese ($30):  Subtle bouquet of pineapple, pine nut and lemon oil.  Luscious yet crisp papaya fruit shows a refreshing mineral character.  Deceptively light and wonderfully easy to drink, this spätlese is just plain fun.  90.  2007 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spätlese Erste Lage ($50):  Fruit-driven aromas of apricot and quince, lifted by a floral element.  The subtle tropical fruit flavors are paired with a touch of licorice and a good shot of slate, with the harmonious balance of sweetness and acidity belying this wine’s concentration.  Finishes with good length and offers good potential.  I may be underrating this.  90.  2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese ($50):  Pale golden yellow.  Apple jelly, candied lemon and brown spices on the nose.  The glossy peach fruit is highlighted by lively acidity.  The subtle, complex finish is still somewhat closed, calling for a bit of patience.  There’s more here than meets the eye.  90(+?).  2007 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese ($60):  Pale golden yellow. Bright, crisp aromas of candied peach, lemon oil and acacia honey.  The sweet tropical fruit flavors display remarkable delicacy in spite of the wine’s depth.  The long, glossy finish is underscored by slate and a refined spiciness.  90.  2007 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese Erste Lage:  Rich golden yellow.  Deep aromas of bing cherry, lime zest and clove over a bed of honeyed botrytis.  The creamy yet vibrant flavor of glazed peach is animated by slate flavor and a wonderfully tart citric character.  Tightly coiled yet already immensely pleasing, this beerenauslese boasts excellent depth, length and potential.  96.  Also recommended:  2007 Saarfeilser Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (85), 2007 Mehringer Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (86), 2007 Riesling (86), 2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spätlese Erste Lage Auction Wine (88), 2007 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (88).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Wiltinger Riesling Kabinett Feinherb.

Willi Schaefer, Graach.  Although 2007 brought the earliest budbreak and flowering in memory, coupled with an Indian summer, Willi Schaefer and his son Christoph hardly began to harvest before November.  Instead of the usual 100 days between flowering and harvest, their vines enjoyed between 130 and 170.  I thought this estate had underperformed earlier this decade after doubling its vineyard holdings to ten acres, but the last couple of vintages have been notably better, with 2006 outshining 2005. The 2007s are about as good as anything I can remember tasting here.  In spite of their ethereal style, but?? which makes them so seductive to drink, these are serious rieslings that provoke meditation.  (Terry Theise).

2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett ($28):  Classy aromas of apple blossom, pine nuts and acacia blossom.  Subtle raspberry fruit on the palate, with a fine mineral edge.  Finishes with slate and allspice.  88.  2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5 ($54):  Elusive floral aroma, with rich apricot and a hint of sage.  The satiny texture and luscious tropical fruit flavors are brought to life by a nice charge of acidity.  Nut oils and slate define the elegant finish, making this one of the excellent spätleses of the vintage.  92.  2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #10 ($112):  Golden yellow.  Rich mango, clover and lemon oil on the nose.  Sleek and refined on the palate, with a juicy, mouthwatering freshness.  Finishes gracefully, with flavors of tropical fruits, almond and slate.  Very nicely balanced.  91(+?).  2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #17 ($88):  Golden yellow. Mango, quince and lemon oil mingle on the nose.  Luscious candied fruit flavors are given a succulent texture by refreshing mineral acidity, which keeps the palate light and airy.  Wild spices and nut oils linger on the nicely balanced finish.  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling (86), 2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #18 Auction Wine (90), 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese (88), 2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #10 (91+?), 2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule #15 (93), 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein (92).  Also tasted:  2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese Feinherb.

Selbach-Oster, Zeltingen.  Johannes Selbach has been extremely consistent over recent vintages and 2007 is no exception.  His rieslings are never overblown or designed to be easy crowd-pleasers, but are all crisp, pure and eminently drinkable.  Perhaps for that reason I sometimes prefer his more elegant wines to his richer variants.  That was the case with the Domprobst Spätlese this year.  To his credit, the dry rieslings are now much better—and the fish label that he sells under the J.H. Selbach brand is a fitting introduction to German wine.  (Terry Theise)

2007 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese i ($40):  Lively aromas of passion fruit, lemon candy and acacia blossom.  More smoke and slate than pineapple and lime on the palate, but amply refreshing.  In spite of its concentration, this auslese remains light and elegant, with nice length. 89.  2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese i ($36):  Peach pit, cherry blossom and quince jelly dominate the bouquet.  Almost creamy in texture and yet delicate, with the smoky, wet stone minerality keeping the ripe apricot fruit in elegant balance.  Persistent persimmon flavor with a hint of slate make for a long finish. 89.  2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese ($36):  Lively aromas of fresh apple, tropical fruit and nut oils. The juicy papaya fruit and attractive oiliness are leavened by an invigorating acidity.  Toasted nuts and a distinct slate accent animate the long finish.  Very refreshing.  90.  2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese ($42):  Pale golden yellow.  Subtle aromas of tangerine, lemon oil and clove. Light but creamy and deep, with tart apple, refreshing salts and hazelnut.  This auslese is graceful but not overly sweet, finishing with enticing minerality.  91.  2007 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese i ($55):  Pale golden yellow.  Apricot pit, quince jelly and wild spices dominate the nose.  A smoky, wet stone minerality keeps the wine’s ripe peach fruit in nice balance.  The understated finish features a sweet spiciness.  Perhaps noteworthy more for its richness than for its depth, this auslese is just plain fun to drink.  90.  2007 Zeltinger Schlossberg Rothlay Riesling Auslese ($66):  Pale golden yellow.  The nose offers an attractive bouquet of pink grapefruit, nut oil and apple blossom.  In the mouth, the passion fruit flavor and creamy texture are framed and driven by a vibrant slatey acidity.  More noteworthy for its elegance than for sheer concentration but eminently drinkable, this is my favorite auslese from the vintage at this estate.  91(+?).  2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ($250 for 375 ml.):  Rich golden yellow.  Smoky bouquet features mango, lemon candy and nutty botrytis scents.  Glazed apricot and honey flavors give this a glyceral texture, and yet it remains refreshing, buoyant and pure. Crisp slate accents dominate the long finish.  Hats off!  94.  Also recommended:  2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2007 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2007 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (85), 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ii (90), 2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Eiswein (90), 2007 Zeltinger Himmelreich Weissburgunder Trockenbeerenauslese (94).

Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch, Bernkastel-Kues.  Since the turn of the century, Sofia Thanisch-Spier and Olaf Kaufmann have put this estate back on its feet.  The 2007s may be even more consistent than the 2006s but they do not have quite the same depth.  That said, the kabinett from the famous Doktor vineyard is pure elegance.  (Numerous importers, including Slocum & Sons, Northhaven, CT and Billington Imports, Springfield, VA)

2007 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Kabinett ($43-$54):  Brisk aromas of cherry blossom, lemon zest and mint.  The peachy fruit snaps to attention with crisp salted apple and distinctive slate.  Juicy, minerally finish.  88.  2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese ($34):  Subdued aromas of apple, cherry blossom and lemon oil.  Rich in the middle palate, with the supple, sweet apricot fruit showing a spicy bite.  Finishes with invigorating minerals and harmonious spice character.  89.  2007 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Spätlese ($63-$75):  Fruit-driven aromas of apricot pit and quince, lifted by a floral element.  The palate offers a rich, satiny texture with fine supporting acids.  Juicy peach, mineral salts and nut oils are joined by slate on the long finish.  90.  2007 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Auslese #10 ($85):  Pale golden yellow.  Discreet bouquet of apple blossom, candied lemon and clover.  Sleek and refined, with a juicy, mouthwatering freshness, this auslese finishes strong, with slate, tropical fruits and toasted almonds.  90.  2007 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ($620):  Golden yellow.  Impressive bouquet of apricot pit, quince preserves and nut oil on a bed of honeyed botrytis.  Much richer and creamier than the auslese, but with a stronger charge of mineral salts and invigorating acidity.  Finishes with subtly caramelized fruits laced with fresh lemon juice.  Offers plenty of potential.  93.  Also recommended:  2007 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2007 Riesling (2007), 2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (85), 2007 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Auslese #11 (89), 2007 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Beerenauslese (90).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling.

Vollenweider, Traben-Trarbach.  Daniel Vollenweider of Switzerland has done more to ensure that the steep, old terraces above the Mosel are maintained than most Germans who were born and raised here.  After having resurrected the Goldgrube vineyard in the small village of Wolf , he is now kissing the neighboring Schimbock site in the Würzgarten of Traben Trarbach back to life.  The wines here appear to have more depth but perhaps less elegance than those from Wolf, but the last word has yet to be spoken on that front.  Vollenweider’s 2007s are classic rieslings, from A to Z. (Vineyard Research, Wellesley , MD ; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland , OR )

2007 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese ($37):  Vibrant bouquet of white peach, quince and lemon oil.  Bright, crisp apricot fruit is nicely lifted by lively acidity.  Elegant, balanced and persistent, this is an appealing spätlese.  89.  2007 Wolfer Goldgrube Reiler Riesling Spätlese ($48): Apricot pit, lime zest and clove on the nose.  The delicate, creamy texture is held aloft by mango, nutmeg and mineral salts.  Bright and lively, with a slate component providing spice on the satisfying finish.  90.  2007 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule ($50):  Fruit-driven aromas of white peach and apricot, lifted by a floral element and a slight hint of spicy botrytis.  The rich, creamy, sweet tropical fruit flavors and bracing minerality give this wine an intricate framework on which to develop.  An auslese in depth and concentration, this spätlese remains bright and vibrant on the long, spicy finish.  92.  2007 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule ($112 for 375 ml.):  Golden yellow. Subtle aromas of bosc pear, persimmon and nut oils lifted by brown spice botrytis.  Lush and velvety in texture, with ripe apricot fruit nicely framed by flinty acidity.  Rich and long, with a persistently spicy finish. 93.  2007 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Beerenauslese:  Rich golden yellow.  Intense bouquet of yellow plum, candied pineapple and spicy botrytis.  The rich, dense, honey-glazed tropical fruit flavors are highlighted by a precise minerality that keeps the palate fresh in spite of the wine’s considerable depth and sweetness.  The long, complex finish features a burst of slate.  An excellent beerenauslese for the vintage.  94.  2007 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese:  Rich gold.  Extravagant aromas of papaya, honeydew melon and lemon oil drown in the honeyed botrytis.  The succulently glazed tropical fruit are nicely juxtaposed by a saline character that keeps the palate fresh, while the wine’s creamy spiciness accentuates the long, pristine finish.  One of the great wines of the vintage.  96.  Also recommended:  2007 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (85), 2007 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Riesling Spätlese (87), 2007 Riesling Schimbock (89), 2007 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese Portz (89).

Saar

After hail and then unending rains before and during crush reduced last year’s harvest to a level not seen here for over a decade, 2007 was almost a cakewalk.  It will perhaps not compare to the stunning 2005 or 2003 vintages, because there is little or none of the liquid botrytis gold that many consumers associate with a great year in this region, but a bevy of refreshing kabinetts, elegant spätleses and lighter, more classical ausleses were made.

There is no question that Egon Müller remains the man to beat here.  However, it was a very good but not a great vintage for the Tsar of the Saar .  That said, although I like the styles of Zilliken, Von Hövel and Heinz Wagner, none of his competitors were truly able to up the ante this year.  All three were very good, but none was able to trump the leader.  In a different, more off-dry style, though, Von Volxem and Peter Lauer are rapidly gathering steam.

Among those producers not portrayed in full, Claudia Loch from the Herrenberg estate in Schoden again made fine rieslings from her seven acres of organic vineyards. Yields are small, but the wines dense and full of character.  Two-thirds of the production is dry or dryish, with the 2007 Wiltinger Schlangengraben Riesling Alte Reben (88) taking my highest mark in that style.  However, she made also made a 2007 Schodener Herrenberg Riesling Auslese (90), 2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Beerenauslese (93) and 2007 Schodener Herrenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94) that merit closer attention.  With a total production of only 13,000 bottles, though, these wines never appear on the American market.

Johann Peter Reinert in Kanzem (Sussex Wine Merchants), who is often good for a surprise, was less inspiring this year. My highest score went to the 2007 Ayler Kupp Riesling Auslese Alte Reben #27 (88) that he will sell at auction. 

In spite of the shortage of late-harvest stickies, the Saar was much more successful than the Ruwer in 2007, and there are far more producers making excellent wines.  The problem for the general consumer, though, beyond the enormous vintage variation in this marginal climate, is the fact that production runs the gamut from the dry rieslings of Heinz Wagner and Claudia Loch through the off-dry style of Lauer and Volxem to the opulent sweetness of Müller and Zilliken.  I enjoy the kaleidoscope of flavors, but even collectors will probably find the range of styles confusing.

Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, Saarburg.  With his otherworldly 2005s, Hans-Joachim Zilliken so eclipsed his neighbors that he established himself near Egon Müller at the upper end of the totem pole on the Saar . His 2007s may not climb to those same heights, but the large majority of the basic range is much better than in 2006.  These are crisp, refreshing rieslings that will age impeccably.  In terms of sheer value for money, though, my vote goes for the Rausch Kabinett, a wine that I enjoy drinking now.  (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett ($27):  Subtle aromas of quince, cherry pit and lemon grass.  Offers an elegant palate feel, with delicate freshness and crisp minerality.  Bright on the finish.  A good effort.  88.  2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese ($40):  Lively floral nose features apricot pit and toasted almond.  Teasingly creamy tropical fruit flavors show a lacy texture and tangy acidity.  Infinitely appealing spätlese with a slightly spicy finish.  89.  2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese #3 ($75):  Pale golden yellow. Ripe peach, guava and camomile on the nose, complicated by a hint of brown spice botrytis.  Luscious citrus fruits with cool minerality refresh the palate.  In spite of  the wine’s weight, a spicy elegance dominates the finish.  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Feinherb Butterfly (85), 2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese Auction Wine (90), 2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Auction Wine (92), 2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule #2 Auction Wine (91), 2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule Auction Wine (93).  Also tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett Trocken.

Von Hövel, Oberemmel.  Although 2005 remains the benchmark here, this estate’s 2007s have a great deal going for them.  After losing a game of poker with Mother Nature in 2006, waiting paid off for Eberhard von Kunow this year.  The whole collection shines with ripe, healthy fruit; a firm, salty acidity; and impeccable balance.  Von Kunow’s son Max compares them to the 2001s, but they are purer and will probably turn out finer over time.  My scores may not appear high, but these are eminently drinkable wines that I would enjoy having in my cellar.  (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Oberemmler Hütte Riesling Kabinett ($25):  Aromas of white peach and nut oil.  Palate dominated by bright, crisp apple fruit.  Has just enough creamy sweetness to assure an appealing finish.  87.  2007 Oberemmler Hütte Riesling Spätlese ($30): White peach, ripe cherry and apple blossom on the nose.  Refined and poised, with a mouthwatering juiciness and a lush finish.  A nicely balanced wine that maintains a refreshing lightness thanks to invigorating acidity.  Should offer plenty of early pleasure.  89.  2007 Oberemmler Hütte Riesling Auslese ($70):  Pale golden yellow.  Floral aromas, along with melon and ginger. Tropical fruit and caramelized peach fill the mouth, nicely complemented by a delicately refreshing spice element.  Crisp, finely balanced finish rich in mineral salts.  90.  2007 Oberemmler Hütte Riesling Auslese i:  Rich gold color.  Unctuous aromas of ripe peach, dried apricot and smoky botrytis.  Lusciously sweet quince shows an almost honeyed texture yet with vigor and minerality thanks to the wine’s vibrant acidity. Both opulent and graceful, this wine lingers alluringly on the finish.  92.  Also recommended:  2007 Oberemmler Hütte Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Riesling Feinherb Balduin von Hövel (85), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett (88), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese (89), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese (89), 2007 Kanzemer Hörecker Riesling Auslese (90), 2007 Kanzemer Hörecker Riesling Auslese* (91), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese* (91), 2007 Oberemmler Hütte Riesling Auslese** (92).

Peter Lauer, Ayl.  I have long admired Peter Lauer’s rieslings, but had never given them with full coverage before, largely because they were not available in the States.  Although volumes are still small, with son Florian now assisting Lauer in the cellar that has changed—and consumers should be looking for these wines.  As the family has its own restaurant in Ayl, they know what their guests enjoy drinking with food, which is why the off-dry style is at the heart of their portfolio.  When they get it right, as they did again with the Kern shown below, no one in Germany does it better.  (Importers include Douglas Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco , NY and The Country Vintner, Oilville , VA )

2007 Ayler Kupp Kern Riesling Feinherb #9 ($46): Succulent aromas of grapefruit, quince and passion fruit.  Pure, delicate-yet-rich peach flavor shows only a hint of spicy sweetness, along with a crisp apricot pit note.  Finishes seductively long.  One of the finest of the vintage in its style!  91.  2007 Ayler Kupp Riesling Spätlese ii #23 ($38):  Pale golden yellow.  Exuberant peach, lemon candy and vanilla on the nose.  The velvety apricot flavor is spiked by a saline minerality that keeps the wine dancing over the palate.  Not overly sweet and nicely balanced on the finish.  90.  Other wines tasted:  2007 Ayler Kupp Riesling Trocken #66 (86), 2007 Ayler Kupp Unterstenbersch Riesling Trocken #12 (86), 2007 Ayler Kupp Riesling Halbrocken #1 (86), 2007 Riesling Feinherb Schönfels #11 (86), 2007 Ayler Kupp Stirn Riesling Feinherb #15 (87), 2007 Riesling Feinherb Saarfeilser #13 (89), 2007 Ayler Kupp Riesling Spätlese #7 (87), 2007 Ayler Kupp Riesling Auslese #10 (88).

Egon Müller, Scharzhof.  After the difficult botrytis-laden vintage of 2006, which at its best Egon Müller compares to 1976, 2007 turned out to be a much more classical vintage—“more like 1997 or 1971,” according to Müller.  The wines are perhaps not as rich but are more precise than their predecessors. The different bottlings of what at first glance would appear to be the same wine does make decision-making difficult for collectors, but these benchmark wines are well worth trying.  ( Frederick Wildman & Sons , New York , NY)

2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett #5:  Smoky aromas of peach and lemon oil.  The soft, sweet papaya fruit is tweaked by an effusive spiciness.  Offers more weight than elegance for a kabinett, and needs some time in bottle.  Finishes with appealing length.  88.  2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese #10:  Subdued floral nose hints at apricot pit and acacia blossom.  The subtly creamy tropical fruit flavors remains elegant in spite of the botrytis element, thanks to delicate acidity. A juicy, spicy spätlese with a refreshing finish.  91.  2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese (auction wine):  Subtle aromas of dried apricot, acacia honey and cinnamon.  The palate offers an unctuous sweetness, with a baked peach flavor, a honeyed glaze and subtle mineral depth.  Dense, lively and long, this is the spätlese that will be offered at the auction in Trier .  92.  2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese #11:  Pale golden yellow.  Baked apple, cinnamon and vanilla on the nose.  The creamy papaya fruit is still covered in baby fat so that the underlying acidity is almost completely masked.  Full-blown, but not yet showing the elegant spiciness that it should develop with bottle aging.  92.  2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese #12 (auction wine):  Pale golden yellow.  Aromas of candied pineapple, acacia blossom and woodsmoke waft over the brown spice botrytis.  While the glossy texture is tinged with cinnamon, the creamy mirabelle fruit is driven by a vibrant citric acidity.  Offers a tad more depth and length—and better balance—than the #11 Auslese.  93.  2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule #14 (auction wine):  Rich golden yellow.  Smoky aromas of dried apricot, honey and baked apple.  Rich, unctuous tropical fruit flavors on the palate, with the weight of botrytis effortlessly borne by a fine minerality.  The impressively long finish features complex spices.  My top wine from the Saar this year and one of the finest ausleses in Germany .  96.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Scharzhof (85), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett #4 (86), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett #3 (87), 2007 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Spätlese (89), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese #6 (90), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese #7 (91), 2007 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule #13 (89).

Maximilian von Othegraven, Kanzem.  After the stunning 2005 collection, the 2006s from von Othegraven were rather sober.  They have depth, but less of the elegance that I usually associate with the Saar .  Although a couple of the current releases show glimpses of the old character, 2007 is much in the same vein—and far from the halcyon days when this was perhaps the best estate in the region.  That said, Dr. Heide Kegel is obviously breathing fresh life into a renaissance that will need another few years to complete.  When it does, though, the Altenberg, the top site in Kanzem, might well again be mentioned in the same breath with Scharzhofberg.  (Terry Theise).

2007 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben ($56):  Subtle aromas of white peach, quince and sweet basil.  Bright apricot pit fruit lifted by a refreshing minerality. A light, appealing wine with a spicy finish.  88.  2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese ($60):  Pale golden yellow.  Ripe aromas of dried apricot, apple blossom and musk.  The subtly rich, creamy texture is highlighted by peach, cinnamon and vanilla.  More elegant than dense on the subtle finish.  89.  2007 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese Alte Reben:  Golden yellow. Sublime floral aromas, with baked peach, lemon zest and guava.  Silky-sweet papaya fruit is thickened by a honeyed glaze and lifted by minerals on the finish.  Nicely balanced and long.  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Kabinett (85), 2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese (86), 2007 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs (86), 2007 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, 2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling.

Schloss Saarstein, Serrig.  After giving Schloss Saarstein full coverage in the difficult 2006 vintage, I was less impressed by the 2007s. These wines are all clean and well-made but for the most part do not possess the elegant, saline acidity that provides a wine from the Saar its pedigree.  Still, Christian Ebert has become more consistent over the past few vintages and remains on the right track.  (Valkenberg).

2007 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Spätlese Feinherb:  Smoky aromas of muskmelon and ripe pear.  Zesty apricot pit and fruit flavors complemented by persistent spice.  A salty minerality enlivens the off-dry finish.  87.  2007 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Spätlese ($29):  White peach, ripe cherry and nut oils on the nose.  Crisp apple fruit shows just enough creamy sweetness to assure an appealing finish.  87.  2007 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction wine):  Golden yellow.  Full-blown aromas of pink grapefruit, caramel and white pepper.  The expansive tropical fruit flavors show verve and spice in spite of the honeyed botrytis.  Dense but clean and refreshing on the finish.  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2007 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken (86), 2007 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Kabinett (86).  Also tasted:  2007 Saarsteiner Pinot Blanc, 2007 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Trocken, 2007 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2007 Saarstein Riesling Feinherb.

Von Volxem, Wiltingen.  Roman Niewodniczanski has sailed the Von Volxem estate from the remote backwaters into the front ranks of Germany ’s elite producers (VDP) in the barely ten years that he has owned it.  Although many consumers still associate the Saar with delicate spätlese, his full-bodied, off-dry style no longer draws sneers.  Quite the contrary, respect is the better word.  Yes, the rieslings here are different, but the 2007s display an elegance not much seen before—and nothing else works so well in its youth with food.  For those willing to try something new, these wines, with those of Heymann-Löwenstein, are as close to perfect in this style as any in Germany .  Neither of the two like being “stuffed” in the off-dry category, certainly because it sounds less glamorous, but I was taught to call a spade a spade, and these are spades I highly recommend.  (Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland , OR )

2006 Riesling Volz ($45):  Rich aroma combines guava, smoked almond and sweet herbs.  Supple papaya fruit perked up by a slightly salty minerality and a touch of lime.  Finishes with juicy spiciness.  A classic example of this estate’s rich, off-dry style.  90.  2007 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese Alte Reben ($47 for 375 ml.):  Intense aromas of apricot, woodsmoke and sweet lime.  Rich, oily peach skin flavors manages to come across as impressively bright and clear.  Offers a nice juxtaposition of restrained residual sugar, bracing acidity and piquant minerality on the finish.  A pure, classical style.  90.  2007 Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp Riesling ($60):  Heady aromas of wild peach, nut oil and wet stone.  Savory apricot pit flavor, with fine grip and a sophisticated minerally finish.  Subtle and seductively long. One of the ten best off-dry wines of the vintage.  90.  2007 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Alte Reben ($60):  Enticing aromas of tropical fruit, persimmon and smoky spices.  Concentrated apricot and compressed minerality animate the palate.  The rich, dense and complex finish is reminiscent of the Pfalz.  Impressive, and one of the very best off-dry wines of the vintage in Germany .  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Schiefer (85), 2007 Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling (87), 2007 Riesling Kabinett Rotschiefer (87), 2007 Riesling Alte Reben (87), 2007 Saar Riesling (88), 2007 Wawerner Goldberg Riesling (88), 2007 Scharzhofberg Riesling (88).

Heinz Wagner, Saarburg.  When this estate fires on all cylinders, its wines are hard to beat—and Heinz Wagner has been extremely consistent over the past three vintages.  As he seldom shies away from bracing acidity, the finely balanced spätlese and auslese bottlings are often his finest wines, without being overly sweet.  The dry rieslings, which he so enjoys, age nicely but are often a shock for the uninitiated palate in their youth.  Although they may not have the flesh of the 2003s or 1997s, the 2007s shown below are very pure.  This is a style that I like to drink! (Billington Imports, Springfield , VA )

2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett ($23):  Apricot pit and lemon oil on the nose.  Bright, crisp, elegant passion fruit on the palate. Appealing and fun to drink.  87.  2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese ($29):  Subdued papaya, honeysuckle and nut oil on the nose.  With a dominant flavor of juicy orange, this remains more feminine and succulent than brawny.  The elegant finish features an almost jolting minerality.  89(+?).  2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese:  Pale golden yellow. Exotic floral aromas complicate notes of peach skin, toasted nuts and faint botrytis.  Luscious tropical fruits with brown spices and a salty note on the back.  A classical effort with a supple finish.  90.  2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese: Golden yellow.  Exuberant aromas of pineapple, lemon candy and vanilla.  The supple apricot texture is framed by a saline minerality that keeps the wine dancing over the palate.  Well-balanced, spicy and long on the aftertaste.  My favorite in this year’s collection.  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Feinherb (85), 2007 Saarburger Kupp Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2007 Riesling (85), 2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese (87).  Also tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2007 Saarburger Kupp Riesling Kabinett Trocken.

Ruwer

                Although the Ruwer is now part of a larger region known simply as the Mosel —and no longer Mosel-Saar-Ruwer—the two tributaries are allowed to mention their individual provenance, and most of the producers here are keen to highlight their point of difference.  Of the two, the Ruwer is the smaller, and its wines are in a style somewhere between the taut, mineral elegance of the Saar and the more supple fruit of the middle stretches of the Mosel .  That said, the Ruwer has not had an easy go over the past few years.  Torrential rains in 2006 were an act of God, but even in the excellent 2005 vintage the five estates that account for the lion’s share of the region’s production were the least satisfying of the three sub-regions, and all shared similar weather conditions.

                Vintage 2007 is no different, with the Ruwer again being the weakest link in the chain.  The Saar , a similar valley only a few miles further west, was on the whole much more successful.  As I wrote last year, the only apparent reason for the Ruwer’s pale showing is that the major estates are to a greater or lesser extent underperforming at present.

                The Ruwer enjoyed a very early bud break in 2007, sufficient warmth, and just the right amount of rain over the summer.  Further, the weather was reasonably clement throughout the autumn so that most of the estates only began harvesting in early October.  Although not statistically high, yields were almost twice what they were the year before.

                The collection of Christoph Tyrell at Karthäuserhof certainly leads the fray, but my first tastings last spring were much more optimistic.  By the time of my third look in September, the wines appeared to be developing less splendidly than I had expected.  Herbert Weiss from Beulwitz again did well, but without the fanfare of 2004. Similarly, Carl von Schubert remains on track, but without making the breakthrough that I had expected.

I expressed my concern for the wines of Peter Geiben from Karlsmühle(Terry Theise) last year, and 2007 was no better.  As my best note for a kabinett was 85 and for a spätlese 86 points, I will not cover this estate in full this year and will console myself with vintages from the ‘90s that are still in my cellar.  The wines remain rich and deep, but too many show odd aromas or biting acidity.??

                On the brighter side, von Kesselstatt, which now has its headquarters and winery here, was again quite strong across the board, and made one of the region’s best dry rieslings at their Nies’chen site, which they now market as “Grosses Gewächs.”  However, as the estate has choice parcels in the finest sites of the Mosel and Saar as well, I have included them under the heading Mosel .

                All five estates currently have avid followings for dry riesling, and 2007 was much better for this style than 2006, but many American consumers will still rightly ask if dry wine makes any sense here.  Aren’t the delicate kabinett and elegant spätlese wines a better reflection of the region?  I think the truth lies somewhere in between—and there does seem to be renewed interest in the off-dry style that the Germans call Feinherb.

Erben von Beulewitz, Mertesdorf.  Although 2004 remains the benchmark at this estate, Herbert Weis has not had a poor vintage in the past decade.  He made surprisingly good 2006s in a difficult year and some of them have matured better than I had originally expected.  In particular, the dry Grosses Gewächs now shows fine balance.  Like 2004, 2007 is again a classic vintage, but perhaps not at the same heights.  The whole collection is both pure and dense, with the old-vine auslese being my favorite.  Alte Reben is the German expression for old vines, and these are 100-year-old, ungrafted vines that you no longer see much of in Germany .  (Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco , CA )

2007 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Yellow plum, lemon oil and sweet herbs on the nose.  Taut apricot pit fruit and a bracing minerality animate the palate.  The spicy finish offers pleasing depth and balance.  87(+?).  2007 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben ($25):  Refreshing aromas of white peach, guava and mint.  The palate offers a nice balance of succulent melon and spicy acidity.  Still closed, but reveals excellent weight and depth.  Finishes with an appealing lightness.  89.  2007 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Auslese Alte Reben ($56):  Pale gold.  Elegant floral aromas complement pear, musk and vanilla.  Concentrated tropical fruit flavors blend a velvety texture with an herbal minerality and some intriguing salty notes.  Still tightly wound and closed.  In a classical style, and offering very good potential.  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (85), 2007 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett (85), 2007 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Beerenauslese (91), 2007 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Eiswein (90).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Weisser Burgunder Trocken “S”, 2007 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2007 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Spätlese Trocken “S”.

Karthäuserhof, Eitelsbach.  Although each new year brings pleasant surprises from this cellar, the last exceptional vintage here was 2003.  That said, 2007 is certainly much better than was 2006.  The whole range is consistently good, showing juicy fruit and a refreshing elegance, but there are few wines that stand out and none that can compare with those from the Germany ’s finest estates.  That may sound harsh, as most producers would be pleased to bottle anything of this quality, but my heart skips a beat when I see this label, so I approach the wines with high expectations.  On a more positive note, no one on the Ruwer did a better job in 2007. (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken “S” ($70):  Apricot pit and apple blossom on the nose.  Light in body but with dense peachy fruit held aloft by vibrant acidity.  Boasts depth, grip and pleasant length.  Nicely poised dry riesling from this region.  89.  2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese ($45):  Musky aromas of melon, kiwi and lemon oil.  Offers a nice juxtaposition of svelte fruit and delicate acidity, with good lift and freshness.  A well-balanced spätlese with sufficient persistence.  88.  2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese ($60):  Pale golden yellow.  Ripe aromas of cling peach, redcurrant and bay leaf, with only a hint of spicy botrytis.  The palate offers an uplifting swell of papaya and honey.  Fresh, balanced and enticing on the finish.  89.  2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese #53 ($55):  Golden yellow.  Subtle aromas of apricot skin, acacia blossom and nut oils, with barely a hint of botrytis.  Boasts the succulent texture of quince nectar, with a salty minerality to keep the wine light and refreshing.   Finishes with very good spicy grip.  90.  2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Beerenauslese #57:  Rich golden yellow.  Aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and lemon waft over the brown spice botrytis.  The rich, creamy mirabelle fruit is driven by vibrant citric acidity, with vanilla and cinnamon nuances adding complexity.  Offers more depth and length than elegance and balance.  Finishes with pleasing grip.  92.  Also recommended:  2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken (88), 2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett (85), 2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese Auction Wine (89), 2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese #51 (90), 2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Eiswein #56 (91).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Trocken.

Von Schubert, Grünhaus.  After having appreciated the very good job he did in the infinitely more difficult 2006 vintage, I was expecting 2007 to be a return to old heights for Dr. Carl von Schubert and his winemaker Stefan Kraml.  However, although the average quality was high the pair was not able to polish their spätlese and auslese offering into something as resplendent as I had hoped.  Dr. von Schubert describes 2007 as “an extremely delicate and finely nuanced vintage,” but the renaissance will have to wait another year.  (Valkenberg International)

2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Superior ($54):  Unctuous aromas of guava, papaya and sweet herbs.  Succulent muskmelon fruit and juicy texture are complicated by a salty minerality.  Shows the depth of an auslese, but finishes tantalizingly dry.  In an old-fashioned style.  87(+?).  2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese ($31):  Nectarine and sweet floral aromas are laced with a touch of smoke.  The palate features sweet and salty nuttiness with a hint of lemon zest, with a creamy note held in check by the wine’s bright acidity.  Appealing rather than ethereal, but this could develop nicely.  87(+?).  2006 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese ($54):  Pale golden yellow. Bright aromas of bosc pear, pineapple and acacia blossom.  Creamy yet delicate on the palate, with a juicy citrus character.  Nicely balanced, animated and satisfying auslese with a spicy aftertaste. 89.  Also recommended: 2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling Feinherb (85), 2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Brudersberg Riesling (85), 2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett (85), 2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese #75 (88), 2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Eiswein (90).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling Trocken.

Nahe

                I looked at the wines of 56 producers from the Nahe this year.  Where 2006 was a mixed lot—with, as I wrote last year, more chaff than wheat—2007 was much more consistent.  As elsewhere, numerous producers harvested too early, fearing a repeat of last year’s devastating rot, but those that waited were immensely successful.  In fact, the ripening period was up to three weeks longer than last year and the weather at harvest time was stable, so that the top producers were able to cherry-pick their vineyards.  On the whole, it was a spätlese vintage. There were a number of attractive kabinetts, of course, but the auslese-and-above category was poorly represented.   Often too, the ausleses were only marginally better, if at all, than the spätleses, and the volumes were minuscule.  Even less noble late harvest wine was produced, with some estates making none at all.

                The foursome that has long dominated quality here—namely, Helmut Dönnhoff, Werner Schönleber, Armin Diel and Tim Fröhlich—must now pull up a chair for Dr. Peter Crusius, giving the Nahe a plethora of excellent estates unmatched in Germany for a region of this size.  Beyond those five, I also cover Kruger-Rumpf and Joh. Bapt. Schäfer in the portraits below, but there are a number of others who merit serious mention.

                Götz Blessing from the Göttelmann estate in Münster-Sarmsheim was quite pleased with 2007, and not only because yields were double what he harvested in 2006.  I was particularly impressed by his 2007 Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Spätlese (90), which provides excellent value for money.  Although the levels of residual sugar in his sweet wines remain somewhat high for my liking, his dry wines are improving, with his best effort this year being the Dautenplanzer Spätlese Trocken Tres Uvae (89).  An importer searching for an up-and-coming producer from the Nahe should have a closer look at this estate.

                The 2007 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spätlese*** (90) from Harald Hexamer (Terry Theise Selections) in Meddersheim was also excellent.  Although I still am not that enchanted by his dry rieslings, Hexamer had an impressive array of stickies this year, culminating in an auslese (90), beerenauslese (92), trockenbeerenauslese (93) and eiswein (93), all from the Rheingrafenberg vineyard.  This estate is on the cusp of playing in the major leagues.

                Martin Korrell from the Weingut Korrell Johanneshof estate in Kreuznach also had another good year.  As in 2006, his dry wines were the most convincing, with the 2007 Schlossböckelheimer In den Felsen Riesling Trocken Gold Capsule (89) being my favorite.  His sweeter wines, although improving markedly, are not as good as those of Hexamer.  With excellent sites, but not always firing on all cylinders, Jakob Schneider (Terry Theise) in Niederhausen showed new contours in 2007.  Son Jakob, Jr. is apparently beginning to make his presence felt.  From their legendary Hermannshöhle site, I enjoyed both the Riesling Spatlese (89) and the Auslese “Junior” (91).  If Schneider can repeat this performance in 2008, he will merit full coverage next year.

Dr. Crusius, Traisen.  Always one of the better producers on the Nahe, this estate often stood in the shadow of Diel, Dönnhoff and Emrich-Schönleber but has now taken a leading role on center stage.  Dr. Peter Crusius, who joined his father Hans in 1982, believes that 2007 is “the best year I ever had.”  Although the past few vintages have all been notable, I agree.  Throughout it all, Crusius has retained his own somewhat old-fashioned style, but with a mineral depth to his wines that few can match.  He now pairs that with precision and elegance.  In 2007 his Rotenfels Riesling Halbtrocken XIII (the Roman numeral indicating the residual sugar) is one of the ten best off-dry rieslings of the vintage in all of Germany .  Similarly, his Felsenberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule is also at the head of its class.  To paraphrase Michelin, these wines are certainly worth a detour. (T&T Premier Brands, Syracuse , NY ; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco , CA )

2007 Niederhäuser Felsensteyer Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Aromas of white peach, nut oil and oyster shell.  Crisp, well-structured passion fruit flavor drives the wine forward.  Offers a glossy texture, nice weight and good depth.  Appealingly spicy finish.  90.  2007 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken XIII:  Apricot pit, smoked almond and a touch of sage on the nose.  The succulent tropical fruit flavors are finely balanced by mineral salts.  Finishes impressively  long, with noteworthy character and complexity and only a hint of sweetness.  One of the finest off-dry wines of the vintage.  90.  2007 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Spatlese Gold Capsule:  Pale golden yellow.  Inviting aromas of passion fruit, acacia blossom and vanilla, plus a faint hint of botrytis.  Offers a full-bodied passion fruit flavor framed by vibrant acidity and a complex structure.  This spätlese finishes velvety and seductive.  90.  2007 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Auslese:  Pale golden yellow.  Tropical fruits, musk and pink grapefruit citricity on the nose.  Luscious but well-balanced, with rich apricot fruit enlivened by bright acidity.  More dense than elegant on the nonetheless subtle finish.  90.  2007 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule:  Pure golden yellow.  Seductively rich aromas of guava, acacia honey and smoked almond blend perfectly with the brown spice botrytis.  Dense passion fruit and exotic mango pour over the palate.  Polished and juicy on the very long, spicy finish, this is one of the finest ausleses of the vintage in all of Germany !  95.  2007 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Beerenauslese Gold Capsule:  Rich golden yellow.  Intense aromas of dried apricot, wild honey and cinnamon blend nicely with the smoky botrytis.  Luscious, almost overblown tropical fruits coat the palate.  Then quite succulent and juicy on the spicy, very long finish.  93.  2007 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Beerenauslese CX (auction wine):  Rich golden yellow.  Heady aromas of pear preserves, butterscotch and clove mingle with botrytis tones of licorice and herbs.  The densely packed papaya fruit is leavened by vibrant acidity.  Different in character but not better than the gold-capsule beerenauslese. 93.  2007 Traiser Riesling Eiswein CR (auction wine): Intense golden yellow.  Candied mango, cinnamon apple and spearmint on the nose.  The dense weight of the tropical fruit belies the wine’s bracing acidity.  A very refined wine with superb persistence.  93.  Also recommended:  2007 Weisser Burgunder Trocken EC (85), 2007 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2007 Riesling Trocken Top of the Rock (87), 2007 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Kabinett (87).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Grauer Burgunder Trocken.

Schlossgut Diel, Burg Layen.  Armin Diel was one of the first to say that the hype being built around 2007 may not be completely justified.  Even today, he personally rates the vintage with four out of five stars—on a par with 2004 but slightly below 2005.  “In particular, we didn’t have the botrytis to make noble late harvest wines at the highest levels,” he comments.  That said, his 2007s are excellent across the board, with even the “simple” Rosé de Diel being a pleasure to drink.  My two favorite rieslings are the dry Burgberg Grosses Gewächs and the Goldloch Spätlese, but he also produced well-balanced barrel-aged whites from pinot blanc and pinot gris, culminating in Victor, and his daughter’s Pinot Noir Caroline has become an extremely serious wine. The estate also made two beerenausleses in 2007, but I have not yet tasted them.  In a nutshell, few estates in Germany do so well in so many disciplines.  (Terry Theise).

2007 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs: Bright aromas of white peach and acacia blossom.  Crunchy pear fruit and mineral saltiness combine subtly on the palate.  Pure, vibrant and refined dry riesling that finishes spicy and elegant.  91.  2007 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Heady aromas of tropical fruit, wisteria and lemon oil.  Intense, full-bodied papaya fruit muscles its way over the palate, ultimately giving gives way to a flinty minerality that masks the wine’s depth.  Rich and concentrated on the finish.  Offers excellent potential.  92.  2007 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Kabinett ($42):  Subdued aromas of apricot, white lime and sweet spices. The refreshing acidity makes this kabinett appear light and elegant in spite of its richness.  87(+?).  2007 Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Spätlese ($64):  Elegant aromas of cling peach and kiwi.  The wine’s silky-sweet passion fruit flavor remains delicate in spite of its richness.  An almost salty minerality animates the finish.  Made in a distinctly invigorating style.  90.  2007 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Spätlese ($60):  Resplendent aromas of pineapple, lemon oil and oyster shell.  Dense but juicy, with finely spiced acidity holding your palate in check.??  The estate’s best spätlese in this vintage, offering impressive concentration and length.  91(+?).  2007 Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Auslese ($104):  Pale golden yellow.  Bright aromas of grapefruit, honeysuckle and sweet spices.  Luscious, velvety apricot fruit conveys a delicatel sweetness.  Finishes long and elegant, with terrific clarity and spice.  91.  2007 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese ($104):  Pale golden yellow.  Rich aromas of apricot, quince and sweet spices, along with a hint of brown spice botrytis.  Complex, unctuous tropical fruit flavors and salty minerality provide lift and elegance.  At once piquant and delicate, and pleasingly long on the aftertaste.  92(+?).  Also recommended:  2007 Diel de Diel (86), 2007 Pinot Gris (89), 2007 Pinot Blanc (89), 2007 Victor (91), 2007 Dorsheim Riesling Trocken (86), 2007 Riesling Trocken Eierfels (88), 2007 Burg Layer Schlossberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (90), 2007 Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (90), 2007 Dorsheimer Riesling (86), 2007 Burg Layer Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Dorsheimer Pittemännchen Riesling Kabinett (88), 2007 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Dorsheimer Burgberg Spätlese (91), 2007 Rosé de Diel (87), 2006 Pinot Noir Caroline (90).

Hermann Dönnhoff, Oberhausen .  Although many producers on the Nahe still remember 2006 as a difficult vintage, Helmut Dönnhoff speaks of it as one of the best since 1971 or 1989.  Is it possible that 2007 is even better?  Time will answer that question, but it is already clear that Dönnhoff’s 2007s belong in the upper echelons in Germany .  As so often before, his spätleses stand out in any crowd.  I tasted six, with each refracting the light of its vineyard in a different tone but all sublime.  My favorite came from the Dellchen site, and I consider it to be one of the half dozen best spätleses of the vintage.  That is perhaps not all that surprising, as spätlese is this estate’s specialty, but Dönnhoff’s ascension in the ranks of producers of dry riesling certainly is.  Although the past two or three vintages have been very good, I had never tasted a collection of dry rieslings of this stature before.  The 2007 Hermannshöhle Grosses Gewächs is better than the 2006—and that was the finest dry riesling of the vintage!  Dönnhoff made no trockenbeerenauslese in 2007, but his beerenauslese was one of the top ten botrytis wines of the vintage as well.  As I wrote last year, when Dönnhoff is on the label, neither the predicate nor the site is important.  The wine is going to be good.  (Terry Theise)

2007 Niederhäuser Dellchen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs: Seductive aromas of cling peach, smoked meats and leather.  Luscious passion fruit and fine minerality form layers on the palate.  Dense, delicate and spicy on the long finish.  93.  2007 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Savory aromas of dried apricot, wild spices and smoked herbs.  Dense berry fruit with a finely polished minerality animate the palate of this enormously concentrated wine.  Finishes rich, elegant, ethereal and extremely long.  A stunning dry riesling!  94.  2007 Norsheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese ($52):  Subdued aromas of wild rose, passion fruit and wild herbs.  Crisp, polished peach pit flavor is given a refreshing kick by salty minerality.  Delicate and quite long, this is a very refined spätlese.  91.  2007 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese ($68):  Subtle bouquet of papaya, lime oil and cinnamon.  The crisp passion fruit flavor is nicely underscored by spicy slate. A charming and wonderfully drinkable spätlese with a sweet, spicy finish.  91.  2007 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese ($72):  Subtle aromas of lichee, lemon oil and smoked pine nuts.  Rich tropical fruits with a hint of smoke and an intriguing piquancy on the palate.  A subtle acidity gives the sweet, spicy finish a rather feminine aspect.  Very nicely balanced.  92.  2007 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese ($82):  Tantalizing aromas of papaya, sweet herbs and incense.  Discreet but intense black cherry fruit rises from the mid-palate, accompanied by brilliant acidity.  Animated and finely spiced, with a deep, long finish.  I may be underrating this.  92(+?).  2007 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spätlese (auction wine):  Ripe apple, forest floor and lime aromas mingle with a faint hint of honeyed botrytis.  Rich, unctuous tropical fruit flavors pervade the palate.  A wine with creamy depth and a smoky spice character that lingers seductively on an extremely long finish.  One of the finest spätleses of the vintage.  94.  2007 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Auslese ($54 for 375 ml.??):  Pale golden yellow.  Rich aromas of peach nectar, woodsmoke and nut oils, with just a hint of spicy botrytis.  Apricot marmalade and honey give way to crisp acidity on the palate.  Finishes pure, delicate and persistent.  92.  2007 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese ($70 for 375 ml.):  Rich golden yellow.  Passion fruit, a floral nuance and a bit of licorice on the nose.  Pineapple and honey give way to brisk spicy acidity on the palate.  A well-balanced, vivid auslese that finishes smoky and long, with an almost salty minerality.  93.  2007 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese ($74 for 375 ml.):  Rich golden yellow.  Magnificent aromas of yellow plum, honeysuckle and cinnamon complemened by a waft of smoky botrytis.  Musky pineapple jam and elevated minerality animate the palate.  The very long, dense and juicy finish is marked by a refined spiciness.  93.  2007 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Beerenauslese:  Rich golden yellow.  Sublime aromas of candied citrus fruits, lemon oil and acacia honey.  The succulent weight of papaya fruit levitates over the wine’s understated minerality.  The palate-staining finish boasts an impeccable balance of creamy fruit, smoky botrytis and herbal spices.  An outstanding effort for the vintage!  96.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Trocken Tonschiefer (86), 2007 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Trocken (87), 2007 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (90), 2007 Riesling (85), 2007 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett (86).

Emrich-Schönleber, Monzingen.  Werner Schönleber’s 2007s are certainly more elegant than his 2006s but perhaps not quite as powerful.  That said, he has had nothing but excellent vintages over the past four years.  The 2005s were richer, the 2004s showed more finesse, but all were first-class.  The red slate of the Frühlingsplätzchen site tends to be more feminine in character, the blue slate of the Halenberg more masculine.  While there’s not a bad wine in the lot in 2007, two wines stand out:  the Halenberg Grosses Gewächs, which is one of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage, and the Halenberg “R.” The latter was marketed as a spätlese last year, with Schönleber trying to turn back the clock to a time when such wines were considerably drier than they are today.  Today he labels it only as “R.”  It may be the best off-dry riesling of the vintage in Germany , a style that is gaining ground in many markets, because consumers find it more food-friendly. (Ewald Moser Selections, Portland, OR; Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA)

2007 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Delicate berry fruit, lemon oil and smoked almonds on the nose. Subtle peachy flavor with good weight and bright minerality on the palate.  An elegant minerality lingers on the finish.  91.  2007 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Sublime aromas of spiced pear, sweet herbs and nut oil.  Dense, silky tropical fruit flavors are finely balanced by salty minerality on the palate.  Pure and savory riesling with sophistication and stunning length.  A great dry riesling.  94.  2007 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling “R”:  Fine aromas of peach pit, wild herbs and mint.  The almost velvety palate offers a delicate balance of sweet fruit and lively acidity, and the finish is juicy and animated.  My favorite half-dry riesling of the vintage in Germany , and extremely food-friendly.  92.  2007 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese ($49-$60):  Noble, bold aromas of white peach, cinnamon and lemon zest.  The creamy, sweet berry fruit washes over the palate, supported by an animated minerality that provides precision and elegance.  Finishes clear and long.  91.  2007 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Spätlese ($44):  Bright aromas of pineapple, quince and sweet herbs.  The palate offers a delicate and refreshing interplay of ripe citrus fruit and salty minerality.  A refined and expressive finish provide stature??.  Already very easy to drink.  91.  2007 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Auslese ($43 for 375 ml.):  Pale golden yellow.  Very rich aromas of dried peach, musk and lemon oil.  Creamy but dense and compact on the palate, with alternating layers of peach, apricot and spices.  Subtle, elegant and pleasingly long.  91.  2007 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese ($37 for 375 ml.):  Pale golden yellow.  Subdued aromas of candied pineapple, acacia honey and lemon oil.  The sweet peach fruit and salty minerality are nicely integrated in a wine that’s more elegant than rich in spite of a touch of smoky botrytis.  Delicate and appealing.  92.  2007 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Beerenauslese ($174 for 375 ml.):  Deep golden yellow.  Exuberant aromas of apricot pit, orange blossom and cinnamon embedded in honeyed botrytis. The creamy tropical fruit extract pairs nicely with the wine’s vibrant but understated acidity.  Finishes extremely long, at once deep and ethereal.  A great effort.  94.  2007 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Eiswein:  Pale golden yellow.  Highly pitched aromas of white peach, grapefruit and oyster shell.  The poised passion fruit flavor is nicely framed by vivacious acidity.  A pure, refined wine with lovely finishing lift and length.  92.  Also recommended:  2007 Weisser Burgunder Trocken (86), 2007 Grauer Burgunder “S” (87), 2007 Riesling Trocken (85), 2007 Riesling Trocken Mineral (88), 2007 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Trocken (88), 2007 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Trocken (90), 2007 Riesling “Lenz” (86), 2007 Monzinger Riesling Kabinett (87).

Kruger-Rumpf, Münster-Sarmsheim.  Stefan Rumpf and his son Johannes have not been as consistent over the past five years as I would have expected.  They do well in difficult vintages but seldom shine in great ones.  That was true in 2004 and now again in 2007.  Nonetheless, they have again produced a selection of authentic wines that are rich and refreshing, with a distinctive salty mineral character.  When the style gels, as it did with the Dautenpflanzer Grosses Gewächs, these wines can even be compelling.  (Terry Theise)

2007 Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Subtle aroma of ripe pear and acacia flower.  The dense but taut apricot fruit pairs nicely with spicy acidity.  Still very closed, this wine may well improve with bottle age.  88(+?).  2007 Münsterer Dautenpflanzer Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($54):  Citrus pip, nut oil and hyacinth on the nose.  Initially dominated by apricot, the wine opens slowly to show spicy, mineral-driven acidity.  At once rich and austere, but nonetheless convincing, with a pleasingly nutty finish.  90.  2007 Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Spätlese ($34):  Heady aromas of peach pit, cinnamon and sweet herbs.  The almost syrupy pineapple fruit is kept in balance by the low-keyed minerality.  More full-bodied than elegant on the finish.  87.  2007 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Spätlese ($34):  Star fruit, clove and lemon oil on the nose.  The palate is marked by sweet apricot fruit, a juicy texture and subtle spiciness.  Richer but less spicy than the Scharlachberg.  87.  Also recommended:  2007 Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett (85), 2006 Pinot Noir “M” (86).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Weissburgunder Trocken “S”, 2007 Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2007 Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken “S”, 2007 Riesling Halbtrocken.

Joh. Bapt. Schäfer, Burg Layen.  Sebastian Schäfer has matured markedly over the past five years and is slowly emerging as one of the new talents on the Nahe.  As he himself says, “2007 is my best collection to date.”  Although his past two vintages were good as well, 2007 does stand out for its consistency, from a simple dry riesling to a most unusual trockenbeerenauslese.  The down side?  As Schäfer’s confidence has risen, so too have his prices.  (Willette Wines, New York , NY )

2007 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Trocken:  Refreshing aroma of white peach and lemon balm.  The palate offers a balanced play of crisp pear fruit and lively acidity.  Unpretentious but well-made riesling with a refreshing and appealing finish.  88.  2007 Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Trocken:  Cling peach, lemon oil and sweet spices on the nose.  The crisp passion fruit element shows an almost crunchy texture. Precise and well-balanced trocken with a charming, spicy finish.  89.  2007 Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Spätlese:  Tropical fruits, honeysuckle and lemon oil on the nose.  In a distinctly feminine style, with a juicy texture to its succulent guava flavor.  The elegant finish features a persistent salty acidity.  89.  2007 Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule:  Golden yellow.  Aromas of dried apricot, cinnamon and vanilla are complemented by a touch of brown-spice botrytis.  Unctuously sweet papaya and salty minerality share the stage harmoniously.  A lusciously rich wine with a persistent finish.  90.  2007 Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese:  Rich golden yellow.  Aromas of candied peach, papaya and sweet herbs over a bed of honeyed botrytis.  The succulent tropical fruit flavors currently mask the wine’s underlying spicy minerality.  Rich, dense and concentrated, with a sumptuous, round finish.  94.  Also recommended:  2007 Weisser Burgunder Trocken (85), 2007 Riesling Trocken vom Kieselstein (86), 2007 Dorsheimer Riesling Trocken (87), 2006 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett (85). 

Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenau.  For most of this decade, everything that Tim Fröhlich has touched turned to gold.  Two thousand seven is no exception.  Perhaps the late-harvest wines are not as noble as those of 2005, but the entire collection is first-class—and this is one of the few estates that made trockenbeerenauslese and eiswein.  I marked 17 of the 25 wines I tasted here with 90 points or more, with the Halenberg Riesling Spätlese being my favorite.  Although the spontaneous fermentations cultivated here leave some tasters perplexed, I find instead that they add another level of complexity to the estate’s pursuit of purity.  If you don’t like these wines, riesling is not your game.  (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($90):  Blackcurrant, lemon balm and a floral twist on the nose.  Dense and rather full citrus fruit flavors are juicy and invigorating.  A long, concentrated finish highlights this wine’s depth and minerality.  91.  2007 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($75):  Explosive aromas of nectarine, lemon oil and aniseed.  The palate offers nicely interwoven elements of almost chewy passion fruit wet stone minerality.  Finishes with striking purity and considerable complexity.  92.  2007 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($75):  Heady aromas of blackcurrant, honeysuckle and acacia blossom.  Densely packed apricot pit flavor and slate-driven minerality are nicely juxtaposed on the palate.  Very deep on the finish, with an enticing spicy minerality.  My favorite of the estate’s dry wines this year.  92.  2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Halbtrocken ($22):  Yellow plum and nutmeg on the nose.  The sweet tropical fruit flavor is nicely spiced by refreshing acidity.  Appealing and eminently drinkable.  88.  2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese:  Bright aromas of melon, pineapple and sweet lime.  The velvety sweet fruit and pure mineral salts unfold with air, giving this wine a sensuous tactile quality.  Very well-balanced and elegant on the finish.  Perhaps not as rich as the Gold Capsule but more animated.  92.  2007 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese ($60):  Sumptous aromas of honeydew melon, pineapple and sage.  The lusciously sweet exotic fruit flavors and pure mineral salts set the framework for this wine’s complexity.  In spite of the honeyed richness on display here, this wine boasts superb elegance, and the long finish conveys a captivating juicy character.  One of the top spätlese bottlings of the vintage in Germany .  94.  2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule:  Pale golden yellow with a greenish tinge.  Very rich aromas of apricot and sassafras, along with a hint of brown-spice botrytis.  Generous peach syrup fruit with massive extract saturates the palate, masking the wine’s subtle spicy acidity.  More rich than elegant at present, but still one of the finest spätleses of the vintage.  This needs time!  92.  2007 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Auslese:  Pale golden yellow.  Fine aromas of mango, acacia honey and lemon zest.  Rich tropical fruit flavors convey no sense of heaviness thanks to the wine’s understated acidity.  Hints of vanilla spice the slightly sweet finish.  92.  2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($140 for 375 ml.):  Pale gold.  Oily aromas of tropical fruits, muskmelon and vanilla wrestle with spicy botrytis for center stage.  Velvety papaya fruit is finely paired with an element of wet stone and saline acidity.  In spite of its honeyed richness, this auslese finishes juicy and invigorating, with impressive persistence.  93.  2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Beerenauslese:  Brillant gold.  Rich aromas of apricot pit, blackcurrant and smoky botrytis.  Sumptuous tropical fruit flavors coat the palate, with the wine’s chewy texture leavened by salty spice.  Dense yet elegant, and very long on the finish.  93.  2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Gold Capsule:  Rich gold.  Flamboyant aromas of musk, papaya and woodsmoke, along with a strong waft of honeyed botrytis.  The creamy, sweet nectarine flavor is animated by a crunchy, saline acidity.  Unctuous and extremely dense, with a spicy, palate-staining finish.  95.  Also recommended:  2007 Bockenauer Grauer Burgunder Trocken “S” (86), 2007 Bockenauer Weisser Burgunder Trocken “S” (87), 2007 Schlossböckelheimer Riesling Trocken (85), 2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Trocken (86), 2007 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Trocken (88), 2007 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (90), 2007 Bockenauer Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Auslese (90), 2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Auslese (91), 2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Beerenauslese Gold Capsule (93), 2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94), 2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Eiswein (90), 2007 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Eiswein Gold Capsule (92).

Rheingau

                As elsewhere in Germany , many producers in the Rheingau began to harvest a tad too early, certainly out of fear that the crop would rot in a cataclysmic fashion as it did in 2006. In fact, only a slight change in weather conditions in late September or early October could have changed what turned out to be exceptional conditions into a nightmare.

                In the end, many estates harvested over the better part of two months, with mixed results.  As Wilhelm Weil put it, “the grapes were often a bit unripe early in the harvest and a touch overripe at the end.”  That worked well for spätlese and auslese but not for some of the drier styles of wines.  Riesling with 14% alcohol tends to lose not only its varietal character but also the delicate balance that make its one of the greatest white wine varieties on the planet.  Although many of my colleagues believe that the Rheingau underperformed in 2007, at least in comparison to the Nahe or Pfalz, that is only partly true.  Perhaps the absolute highlights of the vintage came from other regions, but I have seldom tasted such a wide range of good wines from the Rheingau as in 2007.  Even second- and sometimes third-tier producers had a couple of delicious products this year—often almost as good as, and sometimes even better than, those of the finest estates.

                Generally it was the spätleses that brought the best results.  Often the auslese and above are richer but not any better in quality.  In fact, the finest spätlese bottlings are often more impressive than many of the ausleses, and very few of the higher-predicate wines have the bright, clean fruit and saline minerality that is the hallmark of those styles at their best. Yes, there were a number of outstanding trockenbeerenausleses, but they were few in number and often made in relatively small volume.

                I tasted the wines from more than 75 estates here this year.  That is an enormous number considering the fact that the Rheingau, with only 3,000 hectares, is one of the smallest growing regions in Germany .  In fact, it is only one-third as large as the Mosel , and smaller even than the neighboring Nahe.  The finest overall collection was that of Schloss Johannisberg, with the leading trio of Leitz, Spreitzer and Weil close at its heels.  The biggest surprise was the surge in quality at Schloss Schönborn, which had the best vintage that I have ever tasted here.  Given its excellent portfolio of first-class vineyards, this is certainly an estate to watch.  On the whole, the only change in the full portraits below is the replacement of Kühn by Reinhartshausen.

                Although the vintage is not quite as compelling as I had originally thought it might be, the clearest sign of its inherent quality is the large number of wines from another two dozen estates that actually merit closer attention.  I have highlighted 20 of them in alphabetical order below.  Of those, Kanitz and Querbach really merit full coverage, but another 3 of the remaining 18 are almost as good.

                Norbert Barth’s wines (Truly Fine Wine, San Diego , CA ) have improved markedly over the past few vintages, with 2007 showing his best efforts to date.  From the Hassel site in Hattenheim, he made an appealing Erstes Gewächs (88) and a very quaffable spätlese (88).  In Germany , Barth is also known for his sparkling wines, which can be excellent.  While his 2006s were inconsistent, Hans-Josef Becker from J. B. Becker in Walluf turned out a seductive collection of 2007s.  My favorite was the Wallufer Walkenberg Risling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (90).  As he moves to biodynamic viticulture and spontaneous fermentations, combined with drier styles of spätlese and auslese, this estate is poised to merit full coverage.

                After a surprising collection in an otherwise difficult 2006 vintage, Reiner Flick in Flörsheim-Wickler has solidified his standing among the producers in the Rheingau with an appealing 2007 lineup.  My favorites were the 2007 Wickler Nonnberg Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs (88) and the 2007 Wickler Mönchsgewann Riesling Auslese (91).  Domdechant Werner (Slocum & Sons, Chambers & Chambers and Ewald Moseler) in Hochheim is owned by Dr. Franz-Werner Michel, who was once the managing director of the German Wine Institute.  For that reason, he is widely known abroad and his wines are often seen in numerous export markets. Although perhaps not as consistent as some of his competitors, when he hits the mark his wines can be first class.  His Domdechaney Riesling Erstes Gewächs (88) and Spätlese (89) are my preferences among his 2007s.

                The rieslings of August Eser, whose wines once belonged to the Rheingau elite, have improved since his daughter Desirée has taken over the property, with the last two vintages marking a new morning.  Although I can recommend all of her wines, the 2007 Oestricher Lennchen Riesling Erstes Gewächs (88), 2007 Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (88) and 2007 Oestricher Lennchen Riesling Spätlese (88) are the best, with the last two representing extremely good value for money.

                A number of the aristocratic estates in the Rheingau have long underperformed, among them that of Prinz von Hessen in Johannisberg.  If the two appealing 2007 Erstes Gewächs from the Jesuitengarten (88) and Klaus (89) vineyards are any indication, we should hear more from this producer in the next few years.  The same is true of the estate of Count Kanitz in Lorch.  I marked six wines from the 2007 vintage with 88 points or higher, with the Kappelberg Erstes Gewächs (90) and Pfaffenwies Spätlese (89) being the two most compelling.  Were it not space constraints, I would have given this estate full coverage this year.

Although the monastery of Kloster Eberbach (Dee Vine Wines) in Eltville is for many consumers little more than a tourist destination, the winery owned by the State of Hessen here has made enormous strides over the past few vintages under the management of Dieter Greiner.  My marks for their 2007 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Erstes Gewächs (89) and 2007 Rauenthaler Baiken Riesling Spätlese (91) speak for themselves.  With 85 acres of vineyard, Ferdinand Koegler from Hof Bechtermünz in Eltville not only makes 185,000 bottles a year, but much of it is quite good, as the 2007 Eltviller Sonnenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs (88) and Sonnenberg Spätlese (88) amply prove.

Obsessed by quality, Peter Jakob Kühn (Sussex Wine Merchants and Domaine Select Wine Estates) continues to have both avid followers and ardent detractors.  His wild fermentations and occasional radical changes in style make clear judgments about his wines’ intrinsic quality difficult.  If I do not provide a full portrait of his wines, it is partly because the finest dry rieslings that are at the heart of his collection have not yet been released.  Like Prinz von Hessen or the Count Kanitz, Baron Langwerth von Simmern (Chambers & Chambers) has large holdings of excellent vineyards.  Although the estate could be doing better, wines like the 2007 Hattenheimer Mannberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs (88) and the Spätlese (88) from the same vineyard show its enormous potential.

                Fürst Löwenstein (V.O.S. Selections, New York , NY ), better known for his estate in Franconia , has made significant progress with his property in the Rheingau since he took control of it back from Vollrads, who had long leased the estate.  My favorite riesling in 2007 was the dry “Sophie Löwenstein” from the Hallgarten vineyard (88), but is was the red wines from 2006 that so impressed me.  I gave the 2006 Pinot Noir “R” 90 points.

One of the big surprises over the past few vintages has been the emergence of the estate of Wilhelm Mohr (Savio Soares Selections) in Lorch under Jochen Leher.  Not only are its dry rieslings excellent, as my score for the two Erstes Gewächs from the Krone (90) and Steinberg (90) vineyards portray, this estate also makes some of the best sparkling wines in Germany .  The winery of G. H. von Mumm is owned and managed by Schloss Johannisberg.  It is thus not surprising that the renaissance of the latter estate has coincided with a marked rise in quality in the wines of the former, with the 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Erstes Gewächs (88) and 2007 Johannisberger Mittelhölle Riesling Spätlese (90) speaking volumes for the change.

                After a surprisingly good selection of wines in the difficult 2006 vintage, Fred Prinz in Hallgarten (Dee Vine Wines and Magellan Wine Imports) was again successful in 2007, with the Hallgartener Jungfer Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule (90) being my favorite.  As he has only 15 acres of vineyards and a strong domestic following, Prinz’s wines are only just now being seen more widely in the United States .

                Few dry rieslings mature as well as those of Peter Querbach in Oestrich, as a vertical tasting of ten vintages from his Doosberg well exemplified.  With 90 points, the Erstes Gewächs from that site was my call in 2007 from this cellar, but he also makes an excellent off-dry “No. 1” from the Lenchen vineyard that I gave the same marks. As with Kanitz, were it not for lack of space I would have given this estate full coverage this year.  Given their 100 acres of vineyards, it is not surprising that the wines of Balthasar Ress (Frederick Wildman & Sons) in Hattenheim are well represented in most export markets.  Their 2007 Erbacher Marcobrun Riesling Spätlese (88) was very appealing, but after the surprisingly good 2006s I had expected a bit more across the board in ’07.

                Much better were the wines of W. J. Schäfer in Hochheim.  Although they have only 15 acres of vineyards, an importer looking for a small but fine estate would be well served here.  The 2007 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90) and 2007 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Spätlese (89) show only too well what this estate can do—and all of the wines are still very reasonable priced.

                Bernd and Ralf Schönleber in Oestrich-Winkel have been quietly improving their quality since the turn of the century, with the 2007 marking their emergence for serious consideration, as the dry 2007 Oestricher Doosberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs (89) and off-dry 2007 Mittelheimer St. Nikolaus Riesling Spätlese (88) amply prove.  The same is true of Speicher-Shuth in Kiedrich, which owns 25 acres of vineyards.  The estate’s 2007 Kiedricher Sandgrub Riesling Erstes Gewächs (88) and 2007 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese (90) both offer excellent value for money.

                Although few American consumers will be looking to the Rheingau for their red wines, just over 13% of the growing area is planted with pinot noir, most of it in or near Assmannshausen at the western tip of the region, where the Rhine begins to flow northward again.  One of the great producers here is Robert König, whose 2007s are first class.  The Krone estate, once owned by the magnificent hotel of the same name and now by Tom Drieseberg from Wegeler, made an excellent 2006 Pinot Noir Juwel (90), as did the Hessische Staatsweingüter Domaine Assmannshausen.  I gave their 2006 Pinot Noir “R” the same mark.  That said, these paler-colored, aromatically wild wines, which often show bracing acidity reminiscent of riesling, are a style that demands an open mind.  Like pinots from the Nahe, they do not resemble those of the Pfalz or Baden, much less the classic references from Burgundy .

Georg Breuer, Rüdesheim.  This estate has long specialized in dry rieslings, which today account for 90% of its total production.  When conditions permit, few estates do it better and even fewer dry rieslings mature more gracefully over time than these.  Each year, I do a “ten years after” tasting of the nearly 50 top wines from my old guide to see which dry rieslings are in best form.  Since his death in 2004, the winner is awarded the Bernhard Breuer Memorial Trophy.  Last year the prize went to his own estate for its 1997 Schlossberg.  This year, the 1998 Nonnenberg from Breuer was among the five finalists.  As in 2008, the wines from the Nonnenberg site in Rauenthal do better in years when the vineyards in Rüdesheim produce wines that are too austere.  (Classical Wines, Seattle , WA )

2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trocken ($80):  Muted aromas of apricot, bosc pear and toasted almond.  Firm, almost austere palate offers a peach flavor with a steely, salty minerality.  Still closed, but displaying promising length.  88(+?).  2007 Rauenthaler Nonnenberg Riesling Trocken ($70):  Peach, lemon oil and woodsmoke on the nose. Rich, toasty papaya fruit shows a creamy texture and spicy acid structure. Finishes with very good depth and length.  Made in an old-fashioned, slow-to-develop style.  90.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($100 for 375 ml.):  Pale gold.  Heady aromas of candied peach, honey and brown spice blend with the musky botrytis tones.  Creamy tropical fruit flavors are spiked by vibrant, spicy acidity.  Rich, juicy and elegant on the finish.  92.  Also recommended: 2007 Grauer Burgunder (87), 2007 Riesling Rüdesheim Estate (85), 2007 Riesling Rauenthal Estate (87), 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Trocken (87+?), 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trocken (88), 2007 Riesling “Terra Montosa” (86), 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (93).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Sauvage.

Schloss Johannisberg, Johannisberg.  As if it had been kissed back to life after a generation in a coma, this estate has risen like a comet over the past four years under the direction of its new prince, Christian Witte.  Long an icon in the Rheingau, it, like most of its aristocratic peers, had long been eclipsed by younger, more dynamic neighbors.  Although I amply praised the 2006s in these pages last year, the stunning 2007 collection sets a new benchmark for Johannisberg, perhaps even for the Rheingau. From the simplest dry riesling to the impeccable TBA, there is not a poor—or even average—wine in the lot.  This is without doubt one of the best performances of the vintage, giving the estate the wherewithal to add a few more superb bottles to the large selection of old wines maturing in the bibliotheca subterranea, as Johannisberg calls its stellar reserve cellar. (Valkenberg International)

2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($57): Apricot, toasted pine nuts and lemon grass on the nose.  The rich mango flavor belies a juicy minerality.  Nicely balanced spätlese with a spicy finish. 90.  2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs ($86): Tantalizing aromas of cling peach, lime oil and woodsmoke.  Conveys and impression of enormous nectarine extract, with pure minerality and considerable depth.  Old-fashioned but refreshing in style, this will age well.  One of my favorite dry rieslings of the vintage.  93.  2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett Feinherb:  Subtle aromas of star fruit and lemon zest.  The palate offers light, glossy papaya fruit and a delicate texture.  Finishes with an appealing spiciness.  88.  2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Spätlese ($57):  White peach, honeydew melon and acacia blossom on the nose.  Delicately sweet pineapple flavor shows a creamy aspect and sophisticated minerality.  Luscious and quite complex on the finish.  An inspiring wine, and certainly one of the finest spätleses of the vintage.  93.  2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Auslese ($172):  Pale golden yellow.  Heady aromas of mango, banana and honeyed botrytis.  Rich tropical fruit flavors and brown spices combine in this wine’s creamy depths.  Perfectly balanced, with bracing saltiness and a riveting finish.  Again, a wine at the top of its class.  94.  2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Beerenauslese ($251 for 375 ml.):  Rich gold.  Pungent aromas of apricot jam, acacia honey and cinnamon on a bed of smoky botrytis.  Luscious on the palate, even viscous, with a rich honeyed texture to the candied peach flavor.  Finishes pure, spicy and wonderfully layered.  95.  2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ($564 for 375 ml.):  Rich gold.  Smoky, pungent nose dominated by brown spice botrytis; this smells unctuous!  Dried apricot with a honey glaze on the palate, with the wine’s musky sweetness animated by stony minerality.  Finishes rich and pure, with a compellingly layered quality and great finesse.  One of the superstars of the vintage. 97.  Also recommended:  2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Trocken (86), 2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Feinherb (87).

Johannishof, Johannisberg.  The volumes of what are generally my favorite rieslings here, like the dry Rottland spätlese or the Hölle Erstes Gewächs, which are often some on the finest wines from the Rheingau in any given vintage, were minuscule in 2007, and were marketed so late that I have yet to taste them from bottle.  Still, across the board Johannes Eser again produced an inimitable selection of wines, with—in spite of the stunning TBA—the spätlese being my personal preference.  Unfortunately, the drier wines that I so admire are seldom seen in the States. (Valkenberg International)

2007 Geisenheimer Kläuserweg Riesling Spätlese Trocken:  Aromas of white peach, toasted nuts and lemon oil.  Luscious yet precise nectarine flavor in a subdued style.  The wine’s oily texture is cut by juicy minerality on the back, which extends the finish.  90.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spätlese ($31):  Delicate aromas of apricot pit, lemon zest and sage.  Velvety in texture and deep, with luscious tropical fruits framed by minerality.  More appealing and downright drinkable than cerebral on the finish.  90.  2007 Johannisberger Hölle Riesling Auslese ($49 for 375 ml.):  Pale yellow.  Supple aromas of musk, melon and mango, with only a hint of honeyed botrytis.  The creamy papaya flavor maintains a delicacy on the palate thanks to a vibrant freshness.  Finishes with more weight than spice.  90.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ($299 for 375 ml.):  Golden yellow.  Heady aromas of cling peach, sage and nut oil over a rich bed of brown spice botrytis.  Unctuous papaya fruit communicates a velvety texture thanks to the muted but very persistent acidity.  Finishes with the grip and distinction of a great year.  One of the finest efforts of the vintage in the Rheingau.  95.  Also recommended:  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2007 Johannisberger Hölle Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Winkler Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2007 Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2007 Riesling Kabinett Charta (87), 2007 Johannesberg Riesling Kabinett “S” (87), 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Beerenauslese (93).

Jakob Jung, Erbach.  After being accused of buying wines from third parties and selling them as estate-bottled, Ludwig Jung was required to lease?? his estate to his son Alexander—who had only just finished his degree in winemaking at Geisenheim—in order to be able to remain a member of the VDP.  Given the quality of Alexander’s first collection of wines, from the difficult 2006 vintage, I had expected that the younger Jung’s 2007s would be even better, but they do continue to offer excellent value for money.  (New Vine Logistics, Manhasset , NY )

2007 Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Erstes Gewächs:  Peach pit, lemon oil and a touch of nutmeg on the nose.  Ripe but austere, with sharply focused pineapple fruit.  Finishes with bracing minerality.  89.  2007 Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Spätlese:  Aromas of melon, lichee and spearmint.  Juicy pit fruit flavors with a tart citrus overtone. Refreshing rather than particularly complex or intellectual.  88.  Also recommended:  2007 Chardonnay Trocken (85), 2007 Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2007 Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (87), 2007 Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (87), 2007 Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Auslese “S” (88), 2007 Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Beerenauslese “S” (89), 2006 Pinot Noir Alexander Johannes (87).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken.

August Kesseler, Assmannshausen.  Although August Kesseler is better known in Germany for his pinot noirs, his rieslings are more widely seen abroad.  In 2007 his dry ones are a bit overblown, perhaps due to global warming, and the classical spätleses are unusually rich.  Given the difficulties in 2006, he made no single-vineyard pinot noirs but his declassified “Max” was one of the highlights of that vintage in the Rheingau.  (Baum Wine Imports, Bensenville , IL ??)

2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Erstes Gewächs:  Aromas of white peach and sweet lime.  Sumptuous apricot fruit is complemented by salty minerality.  The appealing finish offers good depth and spiciness.  89.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Erstes Gewächs: Apricot pit, mango and watercress on the nose.  Rich papaya fruit invigorates the palate.  Perhaps more concentrated than really elegant, finishing with a refreshing spiciness.  90.  2007 Rüdesheimer Bischoffsberg Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule:  Pale golden yellow.  Heady aromas of dried apricot, pineapple and nut oil.  Succulent tropical fruits give the wine a very sweet attack.  Very rich, but with enough refinement to be truly serious.  90.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule:  Golden yellow.  Quince, apricot pit and cinnamon on the nose.  On the palate, the rich, creamy fruit is kept lively by the wine’s bittersweet botrytis element.  Impressively rich, with a velvety texture and a nuanced finish.  This should age gracefully.  92.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese:  Rich golden yellow.  Tantalizing aromas of caramelized apricot, cinnamon and nutmeg on a bed of honeyed botrytis.  Opulent, dense tropical fruit flavors with salty highlights.  A vibrant finish features a complex burst of slate.  This sumptuous wine is still somewhat youthfully one-dimensional, but has the potential to be one of the great wines of the vintage in the Rheingau.  95.  2006 Pinot Noir Max:  Ruby-red.  Delicate cherry and hazelnut on the nose.  Ripe raspberry flavor is brightened by lively spiciness and supported by supple tannins.  A very well-balanced pinot, more about elegance than complexity.  89.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2007 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (91), 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (91), 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Beerenauslese (92), 2007 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94), 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94), 2006 Pinot Noir (87).

Franz Künstler, Hochheim.  After moving out of the narrow cellars of the Aschrott estate that he purchased in 1996 and into the more spacious quarters that were once occupied by the Hochheim sparkling wine company, Gunter Künstler had the opportunity to play his hand in full in 2007.  His strong suit—and the vast majority of his production—has always been dry rieslings, and this year he made numerous very good wines in this style.  Although he also made some spätleses, I have only tasted the kabinetts from the 2007 vintage.  (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs ($55):  Aromas of yellow plum, nut oil and oyster shell.  Polished nectarine fruit with a hint of sweetness and an almost chalky minerality.  The spicy, refreshing finish displays noteworthy poise.  89.  2007 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken Gold Capsule ($55):  Fine aromas of apricot pit, lemon zest and sweet herbs.  Austere star fruit extract with complex acidity pushing this fleshy, deep wine forward.  A touch closed at present but with very good potential.  90.  Also recommended:  2007 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2007 Hochheimer Stielweg Riesling Trocken Old Vines (86), 2007 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2007 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Trocken (88), 2007 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett (87).  Also tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken.

Josef Leitz, Rüdesheim.  After an early, rapid harvest in 2006, Johannes Leitz needed a full two months to bring in the 2007 crop.  Not surprisingly, he compares the vintage to a “pan-fried steak that is a little too raw at one end and a touch overdone at the other.”  While his two dry rieslings from old vines exemplify what the 2007 could be when all went right, the gold capsule version was almost too much of a good thing.  His best riesling of the vintage, however, was the perfectly sculpted Roseneck Spätlese, which was my highest-marked 2007 of its category in the country.  And although I have perhaps not given his Dragonstone and Magic Mountain offerings particularly high scores, they are the best widely available commercial rieslings from Germany .  (Terry Theise)

2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trocken Alte Reben: Peach pit, lemon oil and sage on the nose.  Sweet apricot fruit, toasted almonds and a salty minerality combine in a dense but austere way.  The long finish displays aristocratic poise.  Classical Rheingau riesling.  90.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trocken Alte Reben ($58):  Aromas of yellow plum, guava and nut oil.  Rich, creamy papaya flavor perked up by insistent spice and a refreshing bite of lemon zest.  Almost monolithic at present, but surprisingly long.  I actually prefer this to the gold capsule version.  90.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trocken Alte Reben Gold Capsule ($72):  Voluptuous aromas of ripe plum, brioche and bacon fat.  Dense apricot pit flavor overpowers the palate.  A very broad-shouldered, full-bodied wine with exceptional length.  More opulent than the “regular” version but less elegant.  90.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese ($40):  Pale golden yellow.  Wild floral aromas combine with cinnamon and nut oils on the nose.  The succulent tropical fruit flavors work lively rather than sweet thanks to a bacony tang.  A delicate spice element animates the finish.  90.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spätlese ($48):  Pale golden yellow.  Ethereal aromas of candied peach, mango and mint. Impressively rich, exotic pineapple fruit complicated by a honey glaze and a sublime slatey minerality.  In spite of its richness and density, this wine is exceptionally well-balanced and unbelievably long.  A classical Rheingau wine, and my favorite spätlese of the vintage.  95.  Also recommended:  2007 Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Trocken (87), 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Halbtrocken Only Sansibar (88), 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels Riesling Halbtrocken Alte Reben (88), 2007 Rüdesheimer Kirchenpfad Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2007 Rüdesheimer Rosengarten Riesling Kabinett (85), 2007 Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Spätlese (88).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Rüdesheimer Riesling Trocken Magic Mountain .

Schloss Reinhartshausen, Erbach.  Since Walter Bibo took the reins at this venerable estate in 2003, quality has improved markedly.  The excellent 2005 vintage signaled Reinhartshausen’s emergence among the main players in the region.  Although 2006 was not of the same cut, it was one of the better overall performances in the Rheingau.  With the 2007 vintage, I give this estate its first full coverage here and am certain that the coming vintages will be even better.  While not everything was perfect in ‘07, this winery is a potent force and produces a large number of serious wines.  ( Palm Bay International, Boca Raton , FL )

2007 Erbacher Marcobrunn Edition Marianne?? Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs ($60):  Aromas of white peach, persimmon and sage.  Fairly full-bodied? pineapple fruit on the attack, framed by crisp minerality. More linear than muscular on the finish.  This still needs time.  89.  2007 Erbacher Schlossberg Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs:  Apricot, lemon zest and wild herbs on the nose.  Rich, full-bodied peach skin flavor is lifted by nicely integrated acidity.  A very well-balanced wine with an appealingly spicy finish.  90.  2007 Erbacher Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese:  Bright aromas of apricot pit, guava and mint.  Creamy, sweet tropical fruits tantalize the palate.  Spicy and full-bodied if not as balanced and polished as I would like.  89.  2007 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Auslese:  Pale golden yellow.  Aromas of ripe peach, papaya and vanilla.  Elegantly sweet, creamy passion fruit flavors remain light on the palate.  Well-balanced acidity shows?? just enough spice on the finish.  Made in a classical style, needing time to evolve.  90.  Also recommended:  2007 Chardonnay Mariannenaue (85), 2007 Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Riesling Trocken (85), 2007 Riesling Classic (86), 2007 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs (88), 2007 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Feinherb (87), 2007 Erbacher Siegelsberg Riesling Auslese (88), 2007 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Beerenauslese (89), 2007 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (93).

Schloss Schönborn, Hattenheim.  When Günther Thies left for New Zealand in 2006, winemaker Peter Barth was made general manager.  After discovering two casks that had been purchased in 1989 but never put to use, he began to vinify a part of the estate’s finest dry wines in wood.  The results are impressive.  Although the 2006s were very good for the vintage, 2007 marks a new era for this estate:  I have never tasted such a wide range of excellent rieslings here before.  With a plethora of excellent vineyards across the full breadth of the Rheingau, this winery is set to challenge the reigning quartet of Schloss Johannisberg, Leitz, Spreitzer and Weil.  ( Frederick Wildman & Sons , New York , NY;  Slocum & Sons; Dee Vine Wines San Francisco , CA)

2007 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs ($70):  Wild herbs, lemon candy and acacia flower on the nose.  The bright tropical fruits are kept light by a refreshing, cooling mintiness and bracing minerality.  Luscious and appealing.  90.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($61):  Aromas of white peach, lemon oil and oyster shell.  Pure, dense bosc pear flavor enlivened by finely chiseled minerality.  Perhaps a touch austere but boasts excellent potential.  91.  2007 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($61):  Ripe peach, smoked almond and wild herbs on the nose.  In a square-shouldered style, but the succulent apricot fruit is nicely lifted by a delicately spicy acidity.  Deeper, longer and more elegant than the Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg.  92.  2007 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($58):  Apricot pit, honeysuckle and mint leaf on the nose.  Lusciously rich tropical fruit flavors are held in check by the wine’s crisp, saline acidity.  Finishes juicy, complex, dynamic and very long.  Certainly one of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.  93.  2007 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese ($35-$46):  Pale golden yellow.  Subtle aromas of musk, lily and cinnamon waft over a hint of brown spice botrytis.  Impressively rich yet elegant passion fruit flavors show a velvety texture.  In spite of the wine’s honeyed sweetness, its balance allows complex nuances of apricot and brioche to appear on the persistent finish.  91.  2007 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spätlese ($26):   Sweet herbs, lemon candy and acacia blossom on the nose.  Creamy, velvety apricot fruit is given a light touch by refreshing, cooling mint.  Finishes spicy and persistent.  89.  2007 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Auslese ($46 for 375 ml.):  Pale gold.  Savory aromas of pineapple, blackcurrant and pine nuts.  The supple peach nectar flavor combines weight, creaminess and depth.  Luscious and long but surprisingly light on the salty finish.  90.  2007 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese:  Rich gold.  Expansive aromas of glazed pineapple, nut oils and frankincense drown in the noble botrytis.  Rich, dense tropical fruit flavors show a honeyed texture, with uplifting acidity and salty mineral layers contributing definition.  Crisp herbal accents spice the extremely long finish.  One of my top wines of the vintage!  97.  Also recommended:  2007 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2007 Rüdesheimer Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2007 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2007 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Auslese Trocken “161” (90), 2007 Riesling Halbtrocken (85), 2007 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (94), 2007 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (96).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Riesling Kabinett Trocken.

Josef Spreitzer, Oestrich.  You can’t go wrong when choosing a wine from this estate.  Not only is everything good, it is all moderately priced.  In 2007, Mother Nature dealt Bernd and Andreas Spreitzer a hand that plays to their strengths:  pure, straightforward and highly animated.  If you ask me which wines from the Rheingau I like to drink, Spreitzer would often be my choice.  Their rieslings may not always be as complex or intellectual as those of certain rivals, but a bottle is empty in no time flat.  While the rieslings from the Doosberg vineyard are more modern in style, often made via wild fermentations, those from Lenchen remain more classically Rheingau in profile.  (Terry Theise)

2007 Oestricher Lenchen Rosengarten Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($46):  Aromas of white peach, nut oils and lime.  Pure, succulent apricot fruit complicated by an herbal element.  Classical tightly strung Rheingau style with excellent length.  91.  2007 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewächs:  Floral aromas mingle with white peach, sweet spices and a hint of oyster shell on the nose.  Delicately creamy passion fruit flavor is complemented by an almost nutty quality.  The subtle but impressively long finish ends on an uplifting salty note.  Quite stylish.  91.  2007 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett ($26):  Subtle aromas of bosc pear and lemon zest.  On the palate, juicy apricot fruit shows a hint of sweetness and an attractive salty note.  In a well-balanced, easy-drinking style.  89.  2007 Winkler Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese ($40):  Aromas of fresh peach, grapefruit and lemon oil.  Bright, clean nectarine fruit framed by tangy saline minerality.  Well-balanced spätlese with uplifted spice on the finish.  This is fun to drink!  90.  2007 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese:  Aromas of guava, wild herbs and nut oil.  Fresh, juicy pineapple fruit offers a crisp saline kick.  Subtle, nicely balanced wine with delicate spice on the back.  90.  2007 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese 303 ($60):  Pale golden yellow.  Aromas of caramelized peach and mango, plus a touch of cinnamon.  Delicately creamy tropical fruits glide over the palate.  More about unctuous sweetness than salty minerality, but quite long on the finish.  Offers excellent potential.  92.  2007 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese:  Golden yellow.  Opulent aromas of pear drop, acacia honey and candied orange accentuate the licorice botrytis.  The sweet, honey-glazed nectarine fruit is overpowering, with the wine’s subtle mineral structure currently completely subdued.  Hard to judge now, but definitely offers strong potential.  94(+?).  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Trocken (85), 2007 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2007 Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2007 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (86), 2007 Winkler Jesuitengarten Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (87), 2007 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken (89), 2007 Riesling Charta (88).

Schloss Vollrads, Oestrich-Winkel.  Over the past five vintages Rowald Hepp has resurrected the reputation of this estate, which has long been one of the flagships of the Rheingau. As these wines are well distributed, it is comforting to know that the quality is now beyond reproach.  In particular, the off-dry rieslings and subtle kabinetts offer good value for money. (Schmidt & Söhne, Baltimore , MD )

2007 Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs Spätlese:  Smoky aromas of apricot and sage.  At once ample and refreshing, with a juicy honeydew melon flavor and a creamy texture.  Nicely balanced and persistent.  88.  2007 Riesling Kabinett ($21):  Ripe peach and lemon oil on the nose. Supple passion fruit flavor lifted by vibrant spices.  Well-balanced and fun to drink. 88.  2007 Riesling Spätlese ($29):  Pale golden yellow. Subtle aromas of white peach, pear drop and sassafras.  Toasty, creamy apricot skin flavor is perked up by a refreshing minty tang.  Nicely balanced, somewhat old-fashioned Rheingau riesling.  89.  2007 Riesling Auslese ($45 for 375 ml.):  Golden yellow. Aromas of yellow plum, lime zest and black pepper.  Creamy lemon and pineapple flavors weigh in on the palate.  A supple, refined auslese in a classical style.  91.  2007 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Gold Capsule ($300 for 375 ml.):  Rich gold.  Full-blown aromas of caramelized apricot, banana and butter cream enrich the honeyed botrytis tones.  While the unctuous tropical fruit extract is highlighted by a salty, mineral spiciness, the wine remains elegant on the finish in spite of its considerable density.  Plenty of potential here.  94.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2007 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2007 Riesling Halbtrocken (85), 2007 Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (87), 2007 Riesling Edition (86).

Geheimrat J. Wegeler Erben, Oestrich-Winkel.  Although the average quality of the entry-level wines here continues to improve, this estate was not able to tweak?? their finest rieslings quite enough in 2007 to seriously challenge their major rivals in any of the major disciplines.  My favorite wine is actually the delicate Riesling Kabinett from the Schlossberg vineyard.  Still, with their sizeable vineyard holdings, Tom Drieseberg, Michael Burgdorf and Andreas Holderrieth should never be underestimated.  This is a most serious estate.  (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Winkler Jesuitengarten Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs ($50):  Aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and lemon zest.  Dense, exotic passion fruit flavor with an oyster shell spiciness and a touch of hyacinth.  At once supple and crisp on the finish, with good length.  88.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett ($25):  Subtle aromas of peach and lemon oil.  Delicately creamy passion fruit flavor is refreshed by just enough vibrant spice.  Well-balanced and fun to drink.  88.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spätlese ($35):  High-toned aromas of glazed apricot, cinnamon and vanilla.  Rich, full-bodied, somewhat old-fashioned wine but still not too sweet or sticky.  Papaya fruit in the middle palate, with the slatey minerality of the site ringing clear on the finish.  89.  2006 Geisenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Auslese ($65):  Pale golden yellow.  Candied pineapple, roasted pine nuts and a hint of vanilla mingle with honeyed botrytis on the nose.  The sweet, weighty tropical fruit flavors flow creamily over the palate.  An uplifted if not truly noble auslese in an extremely classical style.  Long on the finish.  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs (87), 2007 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Pur (86), 2007 Johannisberger Hölle Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (87), 2007 Riesling Spätlese Geheimrat J (87), 2007 Geisenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Eiswein (91).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett Trocken.

Robert Weil, Kiedrich.  In spite of the large volume produced, this estate has remained consistent in quality over the years.  Interestingly, though, as its drier styles improve, the otherworldly aura of their spätlese and auslese bottlings has taken on a more human face.  In fact, in 2007 the Erstes Gewächs from the Gräfenberg vineyard is my favorite wine.  Still, few estates manage the range from kabinett to trockenbeerenauslese quite as well as Weil, which is why it is one of the only wineries in Germany big enough to be viewed as a global brand, similar to the finest growths in Bordeaux .  (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($90):  Bright aromas of yellow plum, lemon oil and bay leaf.  Explosive star fruit flavor boasts impressive grip thanks to stony minerality.  Full-bodied yet not at all hot or heavy. Finely spiced finish.  Offers good potential.  91.  2007 Riesling Spätlese ($55):  Subtle of aromas of apple blossom, cherry pit and mint.  Crisp, vibrant peachy fruit shows a delicate quality, with the sweetness restrained by the wine’s lively acidity.  Not particularly complex, but a good example of what a spätlese should be.  88.  2007 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese ($90):  A bright floral quality lifts the aromas of nectarine, quince and sweet herbs.  Honeyed papaya flavor pairs with mineral salts to provide complexity, with a spicy crispness keeping the palate fresh.  Well done!  91.  2007 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese ($90 for 375 ml.):  Pale golden yellow.  Musky aromas of apricot pit, wild herbs and oyster shell.  The smoky, candied fruit flavors are quite creamy but at the same time clear, precise and long.   This is deeper than the spätlese but I prefer that wine for its crisp flavors and elegance.  90.  2007 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction wine):  Golden yellow.  Vibrant floral aroma mingles with white peach, acacia honey and ever-present brown-spice botrytis.  Dense, pure tropical fruit flavors are given a kick by vibrant minerality.  Luscious, sensual and long.  92.  2007 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeernauslese ($700 for 375 ml.):  Rich golden yellow. Opulent aromas of caramelized peach, quince preserves and oyster shell on a bed of honeyed botrytis.  Incredibly dense, creamy wine paired with a juicy, almost salty tanginess.  In spite of its impressive depth and weight, this wine is still impressively elegant. Finishes with excellent length.  94.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2007 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2007 Kiedricher Klosterberg Riesling Trocken (88), 2007 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken (89), 2007 Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken (86), 2007 Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Spätlese (87), 2007 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Auslese (88), 2007 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Beerenauslese (91), 2007 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (92), 2007 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (92).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken.

Rheinhessen

                “In 2007, I differentiate between September and October wines,” says Klaus-Peter Keller, in an attempt to explain why so few estates in Rheinhessen were able to take advantage of the natural potential of the vintage.  Those that harvested too early—and they were the large majority—made wines that were seldom more than mediocre, while those that waited were blessed with an Indian summer.  More precisely, though, there are differences within the difference:  early versus late October.  Numerous estates that opted for a slightly later crush had already assembled their harvest teams in early October and, after having seen 2006 rot before their eyes, did not want to run the risk of losing a good crop. Their wines had sufficient must weights, but seldom the ripe acidities or complex minerality of those harvested later in the month. 

                Although many serious wine drinkers still look down their noses at Rheinhessen, the region’s reputation has risen like a phoenix from the ashes over the past decade.  Keller, Wittmann and now Wagner-Stempel, although not from the classical Rheinfront near Nierstein, are only the tip of an iceberg that is slowly emerging.  Perhaps I am being sentimental, but it is sad to see that none of the erstwhile great estates from the banks of the Rhine still make cutting-edge riesling.  A number of them have folded, others been sold, and many forgotten.  Even Gunderloch is no longer the reference point it once was, and Heyl zu Herrnsheim, who I have chosen not to portray this year, is barely a shadow of its former self.  Since the estate was leased by Detlev Meyer, the owner of Sankt Antony, it is now little more than a second label.  The 2007 Niersteiner Brudersberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (87), long one of the finest dry rieslings of any given vintage, was the best wine from this cellar.  Sankt Antony, on the other hand, was slightly better than it had been in the past and may, if 2008 turns out well, soon merit full coverage.  My favorite dry wine here was the 2007 Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (88).

                Surprisingly, some of the most interesting dry rieslings being made in Nierstein today are from virtually unknown estates such as Daniel Huff or Stefan Raddeck.  On the sweeter side, Walter Strub (Therry Theise), who almost always provides good value for money, did well with his 2007 Niersteiner Orbel Riesling Kabinett (86) and Oelberg Riesling Spätlese (88). Heinrich Seebrich’s (Billington Imports) most interesting wine was his 2007 Niersteiner Hipping Auslese (87).

Last year, I featured for the first time in these pages the wines of Hans Oliver Spanier from the Battenfeld-Spanier estate in Hohen-Sülzen and Carolin Gillot from Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim.  Both did extremely well again in 2007.  This year, I add Jochen Dreissigacker in Bechtheim to the newcomers.  Next on the agenda will probably be Jürgen Spiess from Riederbacherhof, also in Bechtheim, and Stefan Winter (Age of Riesling, Berkeley , CA ) in Dittelsheim.  Jürgen Spiess shone with two dry rieslings from the Geyersberg vineyard, an “S” with 87 and an “X 1” with 88.  Stefan Winter’s best dry riesling was from his Leckerberg vineyard (88), but he also made a luscious auslese (90) from the same site.  Although he may not have the sheer vineyard potential, Winter is thought by many to be one of the most talented young winemakers of the new generation.

                In all I tasted the wines from 130 estates in Rheinhessen this year.  It was not all milk and honey, but where finding a good wine from 2006 was like searching for a needle in the haystack, this year’s output in Rheinhessen was much more consistent and, across the board, quite appealing.  While there are a myriad emerging properties that do not even appear on the radar in Germany , the enormous potential here has yet to be fully tapped.  I mention a handful of the best in the following paragraphs.

Friederich Groebe (Magellan Wine Imports) in Biebersheim has a very individual style, and his wines take time to develop.  Sometimes difficult to understand in their youth, they age well.  After his rather weak 2006s, I liked his 2007 Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88), but somehow the collection as whole didn’t work quite as well as in some previous vintages.  Similarly, Michael Gutzler (Troly Fine Wine, San Diego, CA) in Gundheim had another good year, putting his best foot forward with his 2007 Wormser Liebfrauenstift Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (87) and 2006 Pinot Noir “GS” (89).  While Ernst Fauth from the Seehof estate in Westhofen is still not able to make his dry wines work, his sweet wines are not only appealing but also very reasonably priced, with the 2007 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Auslese (87) being a good example.

Jonannes Geil-Bierschenk at Oekonomierat Johannes Geil I. Erben (Therry Theise) showed a more consistent collection of wines this year, but I was not especially impressed by the dry rieslings.  However, he made a lovely dry silvaner “S” (87) from his Geyersberg vineyard.  Perhaps the biggest surprise this year was Jürgen Hoffmann in Appenheim, from the northern stretches of Rheinhessen near Bingen.  His 2007 Appenheimer Hundertgulden Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88) shows excellent promise, as does a Riesling Beerenauslese (91) from the same site.  After a rather weak performance last year, Eric Manz in Weinolsheim made a handful of nice dry rieslings (in addition to a couple of luscious late harvest wines), culminating in the 2007 Weinolsheimer Kerz Hahnbügl Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87).  The same is true of Christian Petz from Peth-Wetz in Bermersheim with his Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Auslese Trocken (87).  Up and coming is Erik Riffel in Bingen, whose 2007 Binger Scharlachberg Turm Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87) merits attention.

Battenfeld-Spanier, Hohen-Sülzen.  After an inspiring collection of wines from the difficult 2006 vintage, Hans Oliver Spanier turned in another fine performance this year, proving that his selection to join the elite ranks of the VDP was not a fluke.  At the core of his offering are dry rieslings, most all of which are fermented spontaneously and matured in cask. One of the best organic producers in the country, he decided in 2007 to up the ante and is now in his first year of biodynamic viticulture. (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York , NY )

2007 Hohen-Sülzer Riesling Trocken “S” ($49):  Subdued aromas of peach pit and herbal spices.  Bright guava and coconut add interest on the palate.  Finishes juicy and slightly smoky.  87.  2007 Riesling Trocken “CO” ($120): Muskmelon, lemon oil and salted almonds on the nose.  The dense apricot flavor is juxtaposed by salty minerality on the palate. Although by far the estate’s most expensive wine, this riesling is again overblown and does not show the class of the Grosses Gewächs.  88.  2007 Hohen-Sülzer Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($68):  White peach, smoked meat and salted almonds on the nose. Refined, almost velvety texture shows pure star fruit flavor framed by zesty acidity.  The salty minerality enlivens the finish.  89.  2007 Flörsheimer Frauenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($81):  Savory aromas of ripe apricot, sweet lime and herbal spices.  The palate features intense pear flavor and chewy texture, offering perfect clarity. A complex, weighty wine that unfolds slowly in a long, animating finish.  Offers very good potential.  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Hohen-Sülzer Grüner Sylvaner Trocken “S” (85), 2007 Hohen-Sülzer Weisser Burgunder Trocken (85), 2007 Mölsheimer Riesling Trocken “S” (87), 2007 Hohen-Sülzer Kirchenstück Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (90), 2006 Pinot Noir (87), 2006 Pinot Noir “S” (87).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Sylvaner Trocken, 2007 Riesling Trocken.

Dreissigacker, Bechtheim.  Over the past few years, Jochen Dreissigacker has slowly made a name for himself, first in Bechtheim itself, then in Rheinhessen, and gradually beyond the region’s borders.  It is true that he is hardly known in the States, but that should change now that the wines are becoming more widely available.  Some say that Bechtheim, a village in the southern part of Rheinhessen near the border with the Pfalz, lacks the quintessential sites to make great wine.  Although there may be some truth to that assertion, I don’t subscribe to that thesis—and these wines certainly have charm.  (Wine Symphony, New York , NY )

2007 Bechtheimer Einzigacker Weisser Burgunder:  Crisp aromas of ripe apricot and vanilla.  The creamy texture and succulent papaya fruit pair nicely with the wine’s subdued acidity.  The style here is more reminiscent of Chablis than Meursault, with a graceful acidity keeping the palate fresh.  88.  2007 Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling Trocken:  Spicy aromas of apricot pit, wild herbs and mineral salts.  The sweet, brothy peach fruit is cut by pungent, mineral-driven acidity.  Austere but appealing on the finish.  88.  2007 Bechtheimer Rosengarten Riesling Trocken:  Lively aromas of white peach and honeysuckle, plus a hint of nutmeg.  The pure guava fruit and velvety texture are nicely complemented by refreshing acidity.  With its succulent, persistent aftertaste, this has the makings of a thoroughbred.  89.  2007 Bechtheimer Heilig Kreuz Rieslaner Auslese ($40 for 375 ml.):  Spicy bouquet studded with passion fruit, mango and pineapple.  The succulent tropical fruit flavors and creamy texture are almost exotic in character, but nicely interwoven acidity keeps the wine fresh on its rich, unctuous finish.  Good length.  90.  Also recommended:  2007 Bechtheimer Silvaner Trocken (87), 2007 Bechtheimer Chardonnay Trocken (86), 2007 Bechtheimer Riesling Trocken (85), 2007 Bechtheimer Hasensprung Riesling Trocken (87), 2007 Gundersheimer Höllenbrand Riesling Trocken (87), 2007 Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (91).  Also tasted:  2007 Bechtheimer Weissburgunder Trocken.

Gunderloch, Nackenheim.  With over half of his production sold off-shore, Fritz Hasselbach is a regular fixture on the international wine circuit and has done a great deal to advance the cause of German riesling abroad.  When the parameters coalesce, his own wines can be incomparable, but he has not been as consistent over the past few vintages as he once was.  Traditionally his wines age well, so it will be interesting to see if I have been too severe with his 2007s.  (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Trocken ($75):  Subtle aromas of white peach, persimmon and lemon.  Juicy apricot fruit boasts attractive clarity and good weight, but is currently dominated by bright citric acidity.  Crisp and clean on the finish, but still closed.  Perhaps I am underrating this.  87(+?).  2007 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Auslese Feinherb iii ($70):  Pale golden yellow.  Apricot pit, pineapple and a hint of smoked meat on the nose.  The luscious nectarine fruit offers a  velvety texture that’s kept light by an enticing acid structure.  The finish is unctuous and spicy, with just a hint of sweetness.  88.  2007 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Spätlese ($50):  Ripe peach, passion fruit and lemon drop on the nose.  Rich, juicy papaya fruit is clean and refreshing.  In spite of its residual sugar, this spätlese remains bright and lively on the spicy finish.  90.  2007 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($65 for 375 ml.):  Deep golden yellow.  Rich aromas of muskmelon, acacia honey and smoked almonds, along with a hint of honeyed botrytis.  The dense apricot fruit overpowers the wine’s subtle underlying acidity. Caramelized peach on the finish, enlivened by a touch of citrus fruit.  Offers very good potential.  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Trocken (86), 2007 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Auslese (88).  Also tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Jean Baptiste.

Keller, Flörsheim-Dalsheim.  Although he built on a solid foundation, Klaus-Peter Keller has taken this estate to new heights since he took over from his father in 2002.  Not only has he broadened the vineyard holdings, including the recent addition of the Abtserde in Westhofen, he also has tweaked the vineyard management, where his father is still active, and reverted to many of the best ideas of previous generations in the cellar, including the use of wooden casks for fermentation in order to underline the individual style of each site.  The 2007 vintage is a perfect example of his talent.  Few other estates in Germany took such full advantage of the potential Mother Nature provided, including five dry rieslings that are better than almost anything I have tasted here since 2004.  Three of them are among the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.  Not only that, but Keller is also one of the few estates outside the Mosel , Rheingau and Nahe that has excelled in 2007 with spätlese, auslese and trockenbeerenauslese as well.  ( Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown , NJ ; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco , CA )

2007 Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($65):  Delicate aromas of apricot, toasted pine nuts and lemon oil.  The wine’s silky texture and filigree pineapple flavor are nicely framed by an understated acidity.  A persistent spiciness lingers on the finish.  A very seductive wine, and the most elegant of Keller’s dry rieslings.  92.  2007 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($78):  Bright aromas of white peach, sweet lime and persimmon. The crisp, clean structure of this wine masks its intense, spicy weight and ethereal apricot fruit. A fine, smoky minerality draws out the very long finish.  This is the most approachable of Keller’s dry rieslings.  93.  2007 Riesling Trocken G Max:  Expansive aromas of musky peach, clove oil and passion fruit.  The explosive pit fruit flavor are tightly packed, thanks to an almost perfect acid structure that intrigues, charms and then refreshes the palate.  The complex finish is long and thought-provokingly complex.  One of my top three dry rieslings of the vintage.  95.  2007 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Opulent aromas of ripe apricot, dried herbs and smoke.  The velvety texture and expansive ripe peach flavor are held in balance by a discreet acid structure that will allow the wine to evolve positively in bottle.  Smoked almonds and a persistent saltiness linger on the finish.  With its unctuous richness, excellent depth and finely spiced character, this is again one of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.  95.  2007 Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Abtserde Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($111):  Tantalizing aromas of mandarin orange, nectarine and lemon oil.  The exuberant peach fruit and textural richness are driven by a salty minerality that lingers for ages on the finish.  With its perfect clarity and superb intensity, this is like drinking pure water from a mountain stream.  My candidate for the best dry riesling of the vintage.  96.  2007 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule:  Pale gold.  Elegant aromas of yellow plum, quince and acacia honey, plus a hint of brown spice botrytis.  The succulent tropical fruits and bright acidity remain fresh and light on the palate, so that the weight is not at first apparent.  Elegant, crisp and uplifting on the finish.  Offers excellent potential.  92.  2007 Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Abtserde Riesling Spätlese iii ($134; auction wine):  Pale gold.  Rich aromas of quince, plum, pine nuts and lemon oil, along with a touch of honeyed botrytis.  The soft, creamy papaya fruit is framed by just enough vibrant spice.  Finishes with grip and true distinction.  92(+?).  2007 Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Auslese iii ($68):  Golden yellow.  Subtle aromas of candied pineapple, toasted pine nuts and acacia blossom.  The sweet, weighty fruit flows creamily over the palate.  Finely spiced and long on the finish.  Veryy appealing, but not quite as serious as the other auslese bottlings.  91.  2007 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Auslese iii ($101 for 375 ml.):  Rich golden yellow.  Fruit-driven aromas of passion fruit, pineapple and sweet lime.  The lush, sweet fruit is at first almost overwhelming, but a bright spiciness lightens and cleanses the palate.  Finishes sweet and long, and not at all cloying.  A very pure auslese with excellent potential.  92.  2007 Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Abtserde Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($357):  Rich golden yellow.  Ripe white peach, toasted almond and lavender aromas are intricately interwoven with brown-spice botrytis on the nose.  Unctuous and velvety, the wine swaggers like nectar across the palate.  The concentration, spice and brilliant acidity persist for ages on the finish.  92.  2007 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule:  Rich golden yellow.  Stunning aromas of yellow plum, vanilla and cinnamon shine through the honeyed botrytis.  The lavishly sweet, weighty fruit offers enormous depth, but is nicely framed and lifted by a vibrant, elegant play of acidity.  A classical style with a succulent, unending finish, this is one of the great ausleses of the vintage.  95.  2007 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Gold Capsule ($459 for 375 ml.):  Golden color.  The exotic fruit mix of mango, papaya and lichee on the nose hovers over the honeyed botrytis.  Compellingly sweet, concentrated papaya flavor is lightened by smoky accents and the elegantly bitter expression of the botrytis.  The riveting depth of spice makes for a fascinating and very long finish.  A great effort!  96.  2006 Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Abtserde Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Gold Capsule:  Rich golden robe.  Brilliant aromas of pineapple, grapefruit and passion fruit on a bed of pure, brown spice botrytis.  In spite of its extremely dense texture, this wine is all about elegance and literally dances across the palate.  An exquisite balance of creamy fruit, smoky spices and honeyed botrytis linger for ages on the finish.  A nearly perfect trockenbeerenauslese, this is one of the superstars of the vintage.  98.  Also recommended:  2007 Silvaner Trocken “S” (88), 2007 Grauer Burgunder “S” (89), 2007 Weisser Burgunder “S” (90), 2007 Riesling Trocken von der Fels (88), 2007 Riesling Kabinett Limestone (87), 2007 Monsheimer Silberberg Rieslaner Auslese (90), 2007 Westhofener Morstein Scheurebe Beerenauslese (92), 2007 Westhofener Morstein Scheurebe Beerenauslese Gold Capsule (93), 2007 Monsheimer Silberberg Rieslaner Trockbeerenauslese (94), 2007 Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94), 2006 Dalsheimer Bürgel Pinot Noir Felix Grosses Gewächs (89).  Also tasted:  2007 Grauburgunder Trocken, 2007 Riesling Trocken.

Kühling-Gillot, Bodenheim.  After producing above average wines in two difficult vintages in 2005 and 2006, Carolin Gillot had the first chance to express her ideas with good fruit in 2007. It was also the year of her marriage to Hans Oliver Spanier, who shares the responsibilities in the cellar.  They made four very good dry rieslings, with the Grosses Gewächs from the Pettenthal site being one of the best of its ilk in all of Rheinhessen:  rich yet delicate, with a salty minerality straight from the books.  The pinot noirs here are also worth a closer look.  As I wrote last year, with its park, Jugendstil villa and new tasting room, this is an estate to visit if you are traveling along the Rhine .  (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York , NY )

2007 Openheimer Sackträger Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($72):  Aromas of white peach and oyster shell.  Crisp, refreshing pit fruit flavors drive the wine forward.  Very well balanced thanks to its nicely integrated acidity, and appealing on the finish.  88.  2007 Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($72):  Apricot pit, persimmon and mint on the nose.  Rather full on the attack, but benefits from a clear, crisp minerality.  Posseses good weight and character, but lacks the depth and complexity of the Pettenthal.  89.  2007 Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($80):  Seductive aromas of passion fruit, pine nuts and grapefruit zest.  Intense, full-bodied apricot flavor dances over the palate, giving way to a salty minerality that masks the wine’s depth.  Nicely balanced and impressively long, this is one of the finest dry riesling from Rheinhessen.  92.  Also recommended:  2007 Niersteiner Riesling Trocken (86), 2007 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (88), 2007 Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (88), 2007 Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Louis (90), 2006 Pinot Noir (89), 2006 Oppenheimer Kreuz Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs (90).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken Qvinterra, 2007 Riesling Feinherb Qvinterra.

Wagner-Stempel, Siefersheim.  This estate lies in the far northwestern corner of Rheinhessen on the border of the Nahe in a region known locally as little Switzerland .  In light of the comparatively high-altitude stony soils, with layers of quartzite and porphyry, it is not surprising that these rieslings are crisp and refreshing.  In fact, the 2007s are probably the finest I have ever tasted here.  Although they show both poise and character, their salty acid backbone gives them a style not seen elsewhere in Germany . Try the 2007 Heerkretz Riesling Grosses Gewächs—or the spätlese too, for that matter—and you’ll see why Rheinhessen is enjoying a renaissance.  (Terry Theise)

2007 Siefersheimer Riesling Trocken vom Porphyr ($56):  Subtle aromas of white peach, smoke and salty oyster shell.  The piquant guava fruit, accompanied by a dryness and acidity that remind me of Chablis, reflects the site’s chalky minerality.  A clean, crisp and delicious wine with good grip.  87.  2007 Siefersheimer Höllberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Delicate aromas of apricot, pine nuts and lemon zest.  The flavor of star fruit is at once dense and buoyant.  Subdued salty minerality adds spice to the bright, clean finish.  90.  2006 Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($108):  Smoke, apricot pit and lemon oil on the nose.  Refined, invigorating pineapple flavor offers good grip and drive.  The wine’s salty minerality currently masks its depth of fruit while adding complexity to the savory finish.  91(+?).  2007 Siefersheimer Höllberg Riesling Spätlese ($46):  Pale golden yellow.  Harmonious, appealing aromas of yellow plum, honeydew melon and rose petal.  Rich and quite full-bodied, this spätlese imposes more by its depth than by its elegance, but good extract and lively acidity will keep it going for years.  In fact, I may be underrating this.  90(+?).  2007 Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Spätlese ($56):  Pale golden yellow.  Seductive aromas of ripe peach, lemon oil and iris.  Luscious, juicy guava flavor and bracing acidity tantalize the palate.  Finishes very long, with a strikingly alluring spice element on the finish.  Truly seductive spätlese.  92.  2007 Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Auslese ($108 for 500 ml.):  Pale gold.  Heady aromas of ripe apricot, acacia honey and licorice unfold beneath a hint of smoked botrytis.  Caramelized plum, tobacco and smoke flavors on the creamy palate.  Shows richness, depth and impressive weight, but I prefer the elegance of the spätlese from the same site.  91.  2007 Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ($300 for 375 ml.):  Rich gold.  Luscious aromas of cling peach, acacia honey and nut oils on a bed of honeyed botrytis. Unctuous papaya and cinnamon flavors on the palate; for sheer weight, this is the most spectacular wine in the line-up.  The long, creamy finish is peppered with brown spice.  93(+?).  Also recommended:  2007 Silvaner Trocken “S” (87), 2007 Weisser Burgunder Trocken (86), 2007 Weisser Burgunder “S” (88), 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Trocken (85), 2007 Siefersheimer Höllberg Riesling Beerenauslese (92).  Other wines tasted:  2007 Silvaner Trocken, 2007 Riesling Trocken.

Wittmann, Westhofen.  Certified in 1990, this is one of the oldest organic estates in Germany .  In 2003 Wittmann then went biodynamic. That interests me less, though, than the sheer quality of the wines—and they are beyond reproach.  Wittman mastered a difficult vintage last year, and 2007 here is much more classical, showing stylistic similarities to both 2004 and 2002—the rieslings from which I very much enjoy drinking today.  More important, even the simplest Wittmann wines are good.  Of the almost two dozen that I tasted here, there is not one that I would not recommend.  Known in Germany for its excellent dry rieslings, this estate also makes elegant sweet wines, with the well-balanced spätlese being my favorite in 2007.  ( Frederick Wildman & Sons , New York , NY)

2007 Westhofener Riesling Trocken “S” ($50):  Subtle aromas of white peach, persimmon and almond.  Persistently juicy nectarine flavor on the palate.  Subdued but fun, with salty minerality on the finish.  87.  2007 Westhofener Kirschspiel Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Delicate aromas of apricot, lemon oil and fennel.  The subtle tropical fruit flavors are driven more by elegance than depth, but the wine possesses a fascinating complexity and a seductive finish.  This is the most feminine of Wittmann’s grands crus in 2007.  90.  2007 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($95):  Stately aroma of wild peach, honeydew melon and sweet lime.  The deep papaya fruit and spicy acidity work nicely together, with the wine showing a velvety texture.  The unctuous weight and salty minerality linger on the finish.  A long-distance runner.  91.  2007 Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Subdued aromas of white peach, persimmon and laurel. The rich passion fruit fruit is simultaneously deep and elegant.  An enormously complex wine with a weighty, spicy finish.  92.  2007 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Spätlese ($60):  Passion fruit, linden blossom and wild spice on the nose.  The suave, sweet apricot fruit marries nicely with the salty acidity and keeps the wine remarkably light considering its depth.  Serious yet devilishly seductive on the finish.  92.  2007 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Auslese ($58 for 500 ml.):  Pale gold.  Opulent aromas of wild plum, cinnamon and honeyed botrytis.  The ripe tropical fruit flavors are animated by a discreet but persistent acidity that provides freshness on the palate.  With fine weight and supple texture, the finish displays rich, spicy depth.??  92(+?).  2007 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese:  Pure gold.  Ripe apricot, lichee and toasted almond mingle elegantly with brown spice botrytis on the nose.  Deep, rich, concentrated nectarine and smoke flavors are complemented by a bittersweet accent from the botrytis.  Despite its impressive depth, this wine remains sleek and refined on the finish.  93.  Also recommended:  2007 Silvaner Trocken “S” (85), 2007 Weissburgunder Trocken (86), 2007 Weisser Burgunder “S” (90), 2007 Chardonnay “S” (89), 2007 Riesling Trocken (85), 2007 Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (90), 2007 Westhofenener Aulerde Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2007 Westhofenener Kirchspiel Riesling Auslese (91), 2007 Westhofenener Morstein Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (92).

Pfalz

                The 2007 vintage should have been a great one in the Pfalz, and in many ways it was.  Bud break and flowering came early, the summer was warm but not hot, with rain as needed, and a golden October with cool nights gave producers sufficient time to harvest individual lots at just the right level of maturity.

However, as the region had been severely hit by rot in 2006 and yields had been painfully low, many estates were more interested in filling their cellars with healthy grapes than in taking the risks necessary to make great wines.  As the must weights were already comparably high in early September, it was not uncommon to see harvesting machines in the vineyards long before any of the serious producers had even begun to consider when to start.

                As Dr. Ulrich Fischer from the local research station has analyzed, the date on which the grapes in the average Pfalz vineyard reach 65^o Oechsle, the legal minimum must weight for quality wine, has advanced from the 29^th of September to the 31^st of August over the past 30 years.  “This is partly due to lower yields,” he says, “partly to better vineyard management, partly to earlier flowering and partly to global warming.”  In any case, this explains why spätlese wines, which only begin at 85^o Oechsle, were once such a rarity.

The better estates, though, bring in most of their grapes not at 65°, but at 90° to 100° Oechsle, which generally means waiting until October to commence with harvest.  As elsewhere, Hansjörg Rebholz thus speaks of the difference between September and October wines, with the major trait of the grapes picked early being their high acidity and lack of true phenolic ripeness.  In other words, the sugars are there, but not the other components.  Not surprisingly, a bitter, green thread runs through many of the wines made from such grapes.  In others, abnormally high sulfur levels were present when I tasted the wines, as vintners fearing even a hint of rot thought that they needed to protect themselves from the ghost of Christmas past.

                Although his style is a touch austere in its youth, Rebholz is, across the board, still the man to beat in the Pfalz, but competition is becoming fierce.  As an all-rounder, doing pinot blanc, chardonnay, riesling and reds well, Knipser is hard at his heels.  For dry riesling, which is becoming the region’s prima ballerina, no one can match the breadth and depth of Bürklin-Wolf’s portfolio.  Bassermann-Jordan is, for sure, still a potent force, but it was the improvement in the two other estates owned by Achim Niederberger, von Buhl and Deinhard, that was more noteworthy in 2007.  Further, three newcomers are beginning to shake up the remaining pecking order:  Philip Kuhn in Laumersheim, Peter Siener in Birkweiler and Gerd Faubel in Maikammer. I have included the first two with full coverage this year and expect Faubel to make the cut next year. 

As I lived in the Pfalz before moving back to Cologne for most of this past year, I know this region particularly well and visited many of the better producers several times as the 2007 vintage was maturing.  Although most importer s in the States still carry a full selection of sweeter wines, these bottlings are essentially never seen here.  The Pfalz is known in Germany today, and in most other markets, principally for its dry rieslings, which, at least along the Mittelhaardt, account for the majority of the production.  Many estates no longer even make sweet kabinett or spätlese except for the American market and some, given the vagaries of demand, do not even do that.

                Although German red wine is only slowly becoming an item in the U.S. market, I have again included a number of the better examples, either here in the introduction or under the various estates portrayed below.  In fact, 40% of the vineyard area in the Pfalz is now planted with red grapes and pinot noir from the southern part of the region near the Alsace border can be exceptional.  At about the same latitude as Burgundy , and only a bit further east, the wines from Fritz Becker, Willi Bernhart and Karl-Heinz Wehrheim might well be mistaken for Burgundy in a blind tasting.

                Beyond the 18 estates given full coverage below, there is an exceptionally long list of reliable producers making interesting wines, often at very reasonable prices.  The Pfalz, after all, with its nearly 60,000 acres of vine is one of Germany ’s largest regions.  With almost 12,500 acres of riesling, it has now even surpassed the Mosel to become the area with the most extensive plantings of this noble variety in Germany and, with that, the world.

                I tasted a large selection of these rieslings—as well as pinot blanc, pinot gris, pinot noir, scheurebe, gewürztraminer and muskateller—from more than 130 estates this past summer and was impressed by the sheer number of good wines from numerous lesser-known producers.  In many cases individual wines from second-string estates were every bit as good as some of those from the players given full coverage.  Some two dozen of them are profiled briefly in alphabetical order below, a few of which already merit more serious attention.

                Achim-Magin in Forst continues to improve in overall quality.  While the wines for daily drinking are beyond reproach, the finest 2007s didn’t take full advantage of the possibilities nature offered.  Still, the 2007 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88) and 2007 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88) make for nice drinking.  The surprise of last year’s vintage, Otto Haass from Benderhof in Kallstadt, has again turned in an excellent trio of dry rieslings, which will certainly improve with bottle age:  the 2007 Herxheimer Himmelreich Riesling Trocken (87), 2007 Kallstadter Kreidekeller Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (87) and 2007 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Selection (88).

Similarly, Rainer Bergdolt in Duttweiler, who is best known for his pinot blanc, also makes good riesling.  I liked both his 2007 Kirrweiler Mandelberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gewächs (88) and his 2007 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89).  If the other wines were more consistent, this estate would certainly again enjoy the reputation it had a decade ago.  While Gert Bernhart (ImportANT Wines, Venice , FL ) in Schweigen seldom trumps in white, his pinot noirs can be stunning.  My two favorites from the current line-up are the 2006 Pinot Noir “R” (89) and the 2006 Schweigener Sonnenberg Rädling Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs (90).

Although the estate of Josef Biffar (Terry Theise) has an impressing array of vineyards, the death of Gerhard Biffar in 2004 and several subsequent winemaker changes have had an impact on its reputation.  That said, the Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88) and Deidesheimer Maushöhle Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (88) show its potential.  Had space permitted, I would have liked to portray Gerd Faubel at Ullrichshof in Maikammer, who has been making consistently good wines for some time now and did exceptionally well again this year.  Even his cheapest wines are appealing.  At the high end, he outperformed a number of estates given full coverage below, as the 2007 Maikammer Kappellenberg Weissburgunder Spätlese Trocken (90), 2007 Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90) and 2007 Maikammer Heiligenberg Riesling Auslese (92) well show.

Fitz-Ritter (Winesellers Ltd., Skokie , IL ) in Bad Dürkheim generally impresses with his noble late-harvest wines, but both his dry 2007 Dürkheimer Spielberg Chardonnay Spätlese Trocken (88) and 2007 Ungsteiner Kanzel Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88) were also good this year.  One of the biggest surprises this vintage was Matthias Gaul in Asselheim.  Although he was consistent across the board, he made two excellent dry rieslings that outshone many of those from more famous estates:  2007 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Trocken (89) and 2007 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Trocken (91).  At the southern end of the Palatinate , Volker Gies from Gies-Düppel in Birkweiler had another good vintage.  While he generally is able to do riesling and pinot noir equally well, it was his 2007 pinot blanc from the Taschberg (90) site in the Kastanienbusch vineyard that stole the show this year.

Johannes Kleinmann in Birkweiler is another producer who is gradually making his mark.  His 2007 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Auslese Trocken Purist (88) and 2007 Birkweiler Mandelberg Weisser Burgunder Spätlese Trocken Signatur (90) speak volumes for the potential of the vineyards in this village.  That can also be said about the talented Boris Kranz in neighboring Ilbesheim.  Although his 2006s did not leave a lasting impression, he bounced back with 2007s that are better than anything that I have ever tasted here, especially the 2007 Weissburgunder Spätlese Trocken Kalmit (90) and 2007 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Kalmit Terrassen (91).  Kurt and Stephan Müller from Eugen Müller (Terry Theise) in Forst also struggled with the 2006 vintage, but were more consistent in 2007.  My favorite wine was the 2007 Forster Kirchenstück Cyriakus Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), but they also made a very good Riesling Beerenauslese (92) from the Ungeheuer vineyard in the same village.

Gregor Messmer at Herbert Messmer (Terry Theise) in Burrweiler was long one of my favorite outsiders in the Pfalz, but the estate had a problem in their cellars, which they now appear to have solved.  In any case, I very much liked both the 2007 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Grauer Burgunder Spätlese Trocken (90) and the 2007 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Im Goldenen Jost Weisser Burgunder Trocken (90).  If the 2008s show the same average level of quality, I will certainly want to give this house full coverage again next year.  Günter and Rainer Kessler from Münzberg in Godramstein bottled a 2007 Godramsteiner Münzberg Schlangenpfiff Weisser Burgunder Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs (90) that proves their mettle, but their 2007 Riesling Grosses Gewächs (87) from the same site was not as pure.  Still, if the entry-level wines here were better, this estate would merit more attention as one of the solid producers of the southern Pfalz.

At the opposite end of the region, in the north, Axel Neiss from Ludi Neiss (T. Edward Wines, New York , NY ) in Kindenheim is one of rising talents.  His 2007 Bockenheimer Sonnenberg Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (88) and 2007 Bockenheimer Schlossberg Weisser Burgunder Trocken Alte Reben (90) were both impressive this year.  Karl Pfaffmann in Walsheim may not be quite so successful with riesling, but both his 2007 Knöringer Hohenrain Weisser Burgunder Spätlese Trocken (89) and 2007 Nussdorfer Bischofskreuz Chardonnay Spätlese Trocken prove his success with those varieties.  With 42 hectares of vine and an annual production of 350,000 bottles, his wines are not only widely available in some markets, but also offer excellent value.

In a vintage like 2007, even lesser-known producers like Heiner Sauer in Böchingen produced a wide selection of above-average wines, with the 2007 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Steinreich (90) highlighting the potential of this estate.  The estate of Karl Schaefer in Bad Dürkheim was one of my favorite producers in the Pfalz when I moved to Germany 25 years ago.  I am still occasionally moved by one of its wines, but the best I found this year was a 2007 Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88).  That is not at all bad, but is only a shadow of what this estate once produced.  In the same village, Egon Schmitt made much better wines this year.  I particularly liked both his dry 2007 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Trocken Gold Capsule (89) and his fruity 2007 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Goldband (90).

                Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt at the northern end of the Mittelhaardt is another of the rising stars of the region and is already extremely popular in Germany itself.  Unusual names for the wines, a modern label, and a self-assured bearing are certainly all elements behind his success, but the wines are above reproach too, as the 2007 Chardonnay Felsenberg (90) and a red blend from the same vintage that he calls Tailor (91) amply prove.  As I wrote last year, I believe that we’ll all be hearing more from this estate in the years to come.  Even further north, the Schumacher estate in Herxheimer am Berg was also successful.  My favourite wine was the 2007 Herxheimer Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese Trocken Garten (89), but they also made a surprisingly good 2006 pinot noir (90) from the same site.

New wind has been blowing through the old Heinrich Spindler (Miskeit Wines, New York , NY ) estate in Forst since son Markus joined the family business in 2007.  It has been a long time since the wines here were this good.  Still, although I am enthusiastic about the 2007 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89) and 2007 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90), I imagine that the coming vintages might even be better.  Stefanie Weegmüller (Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown , NJ ) in Haardt was so struck by hail and then rot in 2006 that the wines she made?? were an utter surprise.  In 2007 she has upped the ante.  Not only were her dry 2007 Haardter Herrenletten Grauburgunder Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (88) and 2007 Haardter Bürgergarten Gewürztraminer Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (91) very good, her sweet wines were even better.  The 2007 Haardter Bürgergarten Riesling Spätlese (90) gets my nod in terms of value and drinkability, but her Scheurebe Auslese (91) and two beerenauslese bottlings take higher scores.

Another young producer that I expect to hear more from in the future is Jürgen Zimmermann in Wachenheim.  Not only was his 2007 Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88) well constructed, he also understands how to make noble late-harvest wines.

Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Deidesheim.  Since the 2000 vintage, this estate has been one of the most consistent producers of dry riesling in Germany , due in large part to the talent of its clairvoyant winemaker Ulrich Mell, who has breathed new life into this historic cellar.  Since Achim Niederberger, the new owner, has given him not only the tools but also free reign to use them, Bassermann-Jordan has gone from strength to strength.  Some critics, who bemoan a change in style, claim that the wines are now too modern, but I find the rieslings here as pure as mountain dew.  Sadly, most Americans will find only the sweet wines, which although quite good are made only in homeopathic doses for selected markets.  (Valkenberg International, Tulsa , OK )

2007 Riesling Trocken Auf der Mauer:  Herbal aromas of white peach, muskmelon and vanilla.  The palate offers and opulent texture, and ripe apricot fruit complemented by a nutty character.  Still closed, though.  More impressive for its length than its elegance, but excellent value for money.  89.  2007 Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Lively aromas of white peach, honeysuckle and nutmeg.  The pure, tropical fruit flavors and velvety texture are nicely complemented by a refreshingly salty acidity.  The rich, succulent aftertaste and noteworthy length give this wine true character.  91.  2007 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Inviting aromas of dried apricot, fig and cinnamon.  Rich, succulent papaya fruit displays an unctuous texture and enormous depth.  Excellent balance and elegant spiciness provide a real flourish on the very long finish of this aristocratic wine.  92.  2007 Forster Pechstein Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Dried apricot, wild herbs and mineral salts on the nose.  The brothy peach fruit is cut clean by pungent, mineral acidity.  Austere but impressively spicy on the finish:  this wine has the makings of a thoroughbred.  One of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.  93.  2007 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ($333 for 375 ml.):  Rich golden yellow color.  Subdued aromas of cling peach, acacia blossom and mint over a bed of smoky botrytis. The rich, sweet pear fruit is nicely juxtaposed by the wine’s creamy texture and vibrant minerality.  A lively spice animates the finish.  A very sharply delineated and delicately balanced TBA with superb depth and enthralling length.  95.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Trocken Probus (86+?), 2007 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2007 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89), 2007 Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs (90), 2007 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Traminer S (88), 2007 Muskateller Auslese (90), 2007 Muskateller Eiswein (91), 2007 Deidesheimer Leinhöhle Riesling Beerenuslese (93).  Other wines tasted:  2007Riesling Trocken.

Friedrich Becker, Schweigen.  It has become almost embarrassing to write, but for six years in a row now Fritz Becker has made Germany ’s finest pinot noir.  In fact, in the ostensibly difficult 2006 vintage two of my top three and four of my dozen favorite red wines came from this estate.  As Becker states, though, “we did not have the problems with rot that the rest of Germany did.”  If German pinot noirs, which are certainly still among the world’s most underrated examples of this variety, are to have a public face, it would be that of Friedrich Becker—and his friend Bernhard Huber in Baden.  Moreover, the quality of white wines at Becker, even the dry riesling, continues to improve.  You may never have heard of this estate, but you should search out the wines highlighted below.  (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Pinot Blanc Trocken Kalkgestein ($35):  Subtle aromas of ripe apricot, vanilla and cinnamon.  The velvety texture and crisp kiwi fruit pair nicely with the undertones of wood.  The style here is more reminiscent of Chablis than of Meursault, with a graceful acidity that keeps the palate fresh.  Peach stone minerality spikes the finish.  89.

2007 Schweigener Sonnenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Peach pit, clove and mint on the nose.  Dense but austere apricot fruit is kept taut by a salty minerality.  The discreet but appealing finish displays a bracing acidity.  90.  2006 Schweigener Kammerberg Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($140):  Full red-ruby.  Succulent raspberry, vanilla and brown spices on the nose.  Full-bodied blackberry flavor and ripe tannins caress the palate, which remains elegant in spite of the wine’s richness.  With a distinctive personality, enormous depth and impressive length, this is one of Germany ’s finest red wines of the vintage.  94.  2006 Pinot Noir:  Brilliant ruby.  Smoky aromas of raspberry, chocolate and Canadian bacon.  Elegant and admirably balanced, with layers of concentrated wild berry fruit complicated by subtle herbs and spices.  The silky tannins and cinnamon lace?? are reminiscent of Richebourg.  With its depth, finesse and exquisite length, this is again the finest German red wine of the vintage!  95.  Also recommended:  2007 Riesling Holzgasse (86), 2007 Riesling Laisser Faire (86), 2007 Riesling Spätlese “69” (86), 2007 Pinot Gris Kalkmergel (87), 2007 Pinot Blanc In der Enggasse (89), 2007 Gewürztraminer Auslese (87), 2006 Spätburgunder “B” (86), 2006 Spätburgunder Kalkgestein (89), 2006 Schweigener Sonnenberg Sankt Paul Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs (93), 2006 Spätburgunder Reserve Only Sansibar (93).

Reichsrat von Buhl, Deidesheim.  Although Reichsrat von Buhl made a number of good wines in the latter 1990s, quality has been erratic since then.  And when the rieslings were impressive, it was normally just the dessert wines, which are only made in small quantities, that shone.  Since the estate was purchased by Achim Niederberger, who had previously bought Bassermann-Jordan, the experienced team of Werner Sebastian in the vineyards and Michael Leibrecht in the cellars was brought in to resurrect this old estate’s reputation.  They have done an excellent job, with 2007 being the finest vintage that I have tasted here in ages. (Rudi Wiest)

2007 Forster Pechstein Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($50):  Herbal aromas of white peach, woodsmoke and lemon oil.  Vibrant apricot pit and spicy minerality dominate the palate.  A cool, minty finish with good length provides this wine with true Pechstein character.  91.  2007 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($60):  Exotic aromas of yellow plum, muskmelon and clove.  The palate displays the rich, creamy texture and impressive depth of peach pit flavor that are typical of the site.  Expansive spice and impressive length on the finish make this the best Kirchenstück that I have tasted here in a long time.  92.  2007 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese ($40):  Pale golden yellow.  Papaya, candied peach and mineral salts on the nose.  The juicy apricot fruit is nicely juxtaposed by the creamy texture and vibrant spiciness.  A succulent honey tone emerges on back of this persistent wine.  89.  Also recommended:  2007 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Trocken (86), 2007 Riesling Trocken FP Buhl (87), 2007 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs (88), 2007 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Auslese (90), 2007 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Beerenauslese (89), 2007 Forster Pechstein Riesling Eiswein (91), and 2006 Pinot Noir FP Buhl.

Other wines tasted:  2007 Riesling Trocken.

Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Wachenheim.  For slightly over a decade now, this estate has consistently produced some of the finest dry rieslings of any given vintage from an incredible arsenal of excellent vineyards, seven of which they classify as “GC,” a subterfuge hinting at their grand cru status.  One of the first estates in Germany to actively embrace biodynamic viticulture, Bürklin-Wolf is now able give each wine its own voice, and in 2007 they all sang in perfect tune.  There are few estates in the world that could match this performance—and then throw in two excellent TBAs for good measure.  (Europvin USA , Van Nuys , CA )

2007 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Trocken GC ($60-$80):  Lime, clove and white pepper aromas lifted by a floral element.  Offers a pithy texture, with a peach pit flavor and a juicy finish.  A nicely balanced and very pure wine that finishes with succulent length.  91.  2007 Ruppertsberger Gaisböhl Riesling Trocken GC ($50-$70):  Aromatic spices, tropical fruits and smoke on the nose.  The almost sweet papaya flavor and juicy texture work well together.  A salty, herbal note on the back extends the aftertaste.  Still a bit closed.  92.  2006 Forster Pechstein Riesling Trocken GC ($65-$100 for 375 ml.):  Slightly smoky aromas of peach pit, wild herbs and beeswax.  The ripe, crisp apricot fruit is stretched tautly on a salty, minerally frame.  The savory finish brings nut oils and a sophisticated finesse into play.  Quite long.  92.  2007 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken GC:  Rich herbal aromas of dried apricot, toasted hazelnut and bacon fat.  Impressively concentrated, unctuous yellow fruit flavors offer an ideal balance of flesh and juiciness.  Harmonious, deep and very long on the aftertaste.  92.  2007 Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling Trocken GC:  Seductive aromas of white peach and sage, along with a smoky earthiness.  Glossy, dense apricot pit flavor with sweet herbal inflections animate the palate.  At once opulent and juicy, with excellent depth and spice character.  With its impressively long finish, this is one of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.  93.  Also recommended:  2007 Ruppertsberger Riesling Trocken (86), 2006 Wachenheimer Böhlig Riesling trocken “PC” (87), 2007 Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling Trocken “PC” (87), 2007 Wachenheimer Rechbächel Riesling Trocken “PC” (88), 2007 Wachenheimer Altenburg Riesling trocken “PC” (90), 2007 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Trocken “GC” (90), 2007 Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Trocken “GC” (91), 2007 Forster Pechstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94), 2007 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94).

A. Christmann, Gimmeldingen.  As I essentially lived next door to this estate for most of this year, I have tasted the 2007s from Steffen Christmann , the president of the VDP, numerous times since harvest.  I was quite impressed with the wines from case, in particular by the high level of quality over the whole range, but the wines closed down after bottling and are only just now beginning to show their true character.  I have thus probably been a touch too severe in my scores.  In fact, it is the Oelberg Riesling that is drinking best today.  As Christmann considers this site to have the potential of a Grosses Gewächs, it certainly offers the best value for money.

2007 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Meaty aromas of peach skin, beeswax and nutmeg.  The ample apricot fruit and polished texture are nicely framed by smoky minerality. In a full-bodied style, finishing with good depth and surprising length.  90.  2007 Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Lively aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and lemon oil.  Vibrant apricot pit flavor in conjunction with almost chalky acidity provides this wine with excellent drive.  In spite of its austerity, this riesling boasts provocative depth, excellent length and fine potential.  90(+?).  2007 Königsbacher Idig Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Intense aromas of apricot pit, lemon zest and clove oil.  The exuberant peach flavor and textural richness are driven by a salty minerality that lingers with creamy depth and tantalizing spiciness on the long finish.  91.  Also recommended:  2007 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken (85), 2007 Gimmeldinger Biengarten Riesling Trocken (87), 2007 Gimmeldinger Riesling Trocken “SC” (87), 2007 Königsbacher Riesling Trocken “SC” (87), 2007 Königsbacher Ölberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2007 Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89+), 2007 Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89+), 2007 Königsbacher Idig Riesling Auslese (89), 2007 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (91), 2007 Königsbacher Idig Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (92).

Dr. Deinhard, Deidesheim.  This winery is in a state of almost kaleidoscopic change.  The new owner, Achim Niederberger, who already controls Bassermann-Jordan and von Buhl, has now added this jewel to his crown as well.  While Heinz Bauer, who for a generation shaped the style of Dr. Deinhard, has retired, the winemaker Kurt Rathgeber is still on board.  Nonetheless, the new wines display a paradigm shift in terms of their flavor profile.  If the old wines were inconsistent though potentially splendid in an old-fashioned style when the stars aligned, the 2007s are crisp, clean and clear across the range.  This is the best collection I have tasted from this estate in well over a generation.  (Terry Theise)

2007 Ruppertsberger Spiess Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs: Ripe aromas of papaya, smoked meats and lemon oil. The juicy guava fruit and vibrant acidity are nicely paired and enveloped in a luscious texture. Finely balanced, this Riesling finishes on brown spices. 90.  2007 Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs: Discrete aromas of ripe peach, toasted pine nuts and mint. Brisk citrus fruit and chalky acidity drive the palate. Bright, refreshing and fun to drink, with a long, sedate finish. 91.  2007 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs: Ripe aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and lemon oil. The herbal apricot pit fruit and salty minerality are nicely interwoven. Certainly alluring, but also deep and long on the finish. 91.  Also recommended: 2007 Ruppertsberger Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86+), 2007 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2007 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2007 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2007 Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2007 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Kabinett (87) and 2007 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Beerenauslese (92).

Knipser, Laumersheim.  Werner and Volker Knipser generally release their wines a year or more later than do their neighbors, which is why so many of the wines I have portrayed in my latest guide are not listed below (we are concentrating here on the 2007 whites, plus a few 2006 reds). Knipser, though, has just released a dry 2004 Riesling Auslese Halbstück (94), which I purchased for my own cellar, and an equally dry 2003 Chardonnay Auslese (92), not to mention a 2003 Merlot “XR” (90).  Few estates are so consistent across such a wide range of styles and even fewer make wines that age so gracefully.  (Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO)

2007 Laumersheimer Mandelberg Steinbuckel Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($44):  Bright aromas of peach pit, toasted almond and mint.  Compact and austere, with the juicy apricot fruit slow to surface.  The subtle smokiness and salty minerality combine for a discreet but alluring finish.  90.  2006 Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Mergelweg Spätburgunder Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($72):  Full ruby.  Smoky aromas of raspberry, hazelnut, bourbon and vanilla.  Bright blackcurrant fruit, spicy tannins and a charming elegance blend in a creamy swirl.  In spite of an almost aristocratic distinction this supple, sweet wine wants to be drunk now, but it will age well over the next seven to ten years.  93.  2006 Grosskarlbacher Burgweg Im Grossen Garten Spätburgunder Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($72):  Dark ruby. Subtle aromas of blackberry, wild herbs and smoky bacon fat.  At once deep and compact, with lush black cherry and spice flavors, sweet tannins and very good balance.   A classically structured and extremely young wine with a very persistent, noble finish.  93(+?).  Also recommended:  2007 Sauvignon Blanc Kabinett Trocken (89), 2007 Chardonnay Spätlese Trocken (88), 2007 Laumersheimer Kapellenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2007 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Kalkmergel (87), 2007 Dirmsteiner Mandelpfad Himmelsrech Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2007 Cabernet & Co. Rosé (87), 2006 Pinot Noir (86).