Focus
on Barolo and Barbaresco
After tasting well over a thousand Barolos and
Barbarescos from the 2004 through 2007 vintages over the past two-plus years,
and discussing these vintages in depth with a few dozen winemakers and other
Piedmont insiders, I’ve reached the
Germany 2008
In late autumn of 2008, few producers thought that
the vintage would develop as well as it did. While the general level of quality is not as homogeneous as 2007, the
finest wines are of similar quality, if not better. Given the wines' moderate alcohols, lively
acidities and refreshing style, I actually prefer many of them to their
predecessors, at least today. Even the
Grosses Gewächs in the Pfalz, which were often slightly overblown last year,
are crisp, animated and more attractive than any vintage since 2004. Whether they will mature as well as the 2007s
or 2004s, though, remains to be seen. Some estates,
pushing credibility to its limit, speak of a cross between the bright acidity
of 2001 and the pure fruit of 2002. Given
the acidity levels of the 2008s, 1996 is a comparison more often heard.
Any winemaker who did not make good 2007s should
probably change careers: in terms of
climate, it was a cake walk. The 2008
growing season, on the other hand, was a roller coaster ride from start to
finish. Anyone who was not attentive,
and especially those who harvested too early, made acceptable wines at
best. Far too many, though, were thin,
acidic and even bitter.
The 2008 growing season. A cool spring followed a warm winter. Both bud break and flowering, the latter
often accompanied by rain, which decreased potential volume, occurred as much
as two weeks later than usual. Although
the summer was warmer, it was accompanied by hefty rains, flooding, and in some
areas devastating hail storms. Only
August was in any way normal. On its
heels followed a cool, moist September that forced the better estates to
postpone the start of the harvest until well into October. Most did not finish until mid-November—or,
for those making eiswein, until December 30, when the temperatures finally fell
to almost -10oC.
As in other challenging vintages, quality was uneven from region to
region and estate to estate—and even within the collection of a single
producer. Some wineries that made a
stunning dry riesling or an excellent spätlese often had an entry-level wine or
two that was, at most, sub-par.
Even among the wines harvested
as late as November, it was not a year for noble, botrytized rieslings. Some estates made only dry wines and many
made little or nothing beyond spätlese. Even when they did, the ausleses were often not better than the
spätleses or, sometimes, even the kabinetts. As most Germans drink primarily dry wines today anyway, this was not a
problem for the domestic market. The
export markets, HOWEVER, will certainly revel in the WIDE RANGE OF?? classical
kabinetts made in 2008.
In a nutshell, 2008 was NONETHELESS A POTENTIALLY
GREAT?? year for the patients producers who knew how to take advantage of the
idiosyncrasies of the vintage. From the
kabinetts on the Mosel to the Grosses Gewächs in the Pfalz, there were plenty
of excellent wines, with kudos going to Molitor on the Mosel, Schäfer-Fröhlich
on the Nahe, Leitz in the Rheingau, Keller in Rheinhessen and Bürklin-Wolf in
the Pfalz for the most successful overall collections.
I should note that there are a
number of other German wine-growing regions that I do not cover here—in most
cases due to the fact that the wines are little seen in America—that
nevertheless deserve brief mention, especially as distribution is beginning to
change. We may see more of them in the
future.
Baden, the region on the eastern
banks of the Rhine across from Alsace, is a good example. With 40,000 acres of vineyards ranking it as
Germany’s third-largest growing region, it is at the forefront of domestic
demand, far more popular in Germany than the Mosel. Here, estates like Hubert (Valckenberg) and Salwey (Rudi Wiest) both make exceptional dry wines. In fact, Bernhard Huber made two of Germany’s best pinot noirs this
year, with his 2007 Wildenstein (95) and Schlossberg (94) being my
favorites. Salwey also makes excellent
pinots, but it was a 2007 Eichberg (94) from his neighbor Gleichenstein that
surprised me the most. The same estate
also made a 2008 pinot gris from the Henkenberg (93) site that ranked among the
ten best wines of its ilk in the vintage. Equally important was the renaissance of old estates like those of Dr. Heger and Bercher that make Baden an entity not to be overlooked.
In neighboring Württemberg, with its nearly 30,000
acres making it Germany’s fourth-largest growing area, the red wines have
always merited the most attention. Gert Aldinger again made the region’s
best lemberger, the same grape that the Austrians call blaufränkisch, with his
2007 Fellbacher Lämmler Grosses Gewächs (92). Rainer Schnaittmann (Rudi
Wiest) took similar honors for pinot noir with his 2007 Simonroth “R” (91).
Although it is the large
wineries in Würzburg that are the best-known estates from Franken in export
markets, the leading producer there today is Paul Fürst (Rudi Wiest) in Burgstadt, who this year shone both with
his 2008 Pinot Blanc “R” (92) from the Centgrafenberg vineyard and his 2007
Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs Hunsruck (93) from the same site. The other great estate in Franconia is that
of Horst Sauer, who made the best
dry silvaner (91) and riesling (91) there, both Grosses Gewächs from his Lump
vineyard in Escherndorf. With only
15,000 acres of vineyard this region is small, but it’s still larger than the
Nahe, Rheingau or Mittelrhein.
With only slightly more than
1,000 acres of vineyard area the Ahr is not only tiny but also one of Germany’s
most northerly regions. Global warming
has made producing pinot noir on the steep, south-facing schist slopes SOMEWHAT
LESS OF A CLIMATIC CHALLENGE?? and there are now four or five producers of note
there, the most famous of whom is certainly Werner Näkel from Meyer-Näkel (Rudi Wiest) in
Dernau. My two favorite pinots noirs
from the Ahr this year, though, were the 2007 Ahrtaler Rosenthal Grosses
Gewächs (93) from Jean Stodden and the 2007 Walporzheimer Gärkammer Grosses
Gewächs (93) from Adeneuer.
In fact, 36% of Germany’s over 250,000 acres of
vineyard are now planted with red varieties. When I moved to Germany 25 years ago, that number was more like 10%, and
most of that crop was used to make rosés. Today almost all of the harvest is fermented to red wine. With 30,000 acres of pinot noir, Germany
cultivates one of the largest areas of this grape outside Burgundy, and some of
it can be extremely good, as I have highlighted where appropriate.
German grand
cru. Just how dry a riesling should
be is a matter of contentious debate. Many writers in America believe that wines with 25 to 40 (I DON’T
UNDERSTAND YOUR QUESTION) ?? grams of residual sugar are not only more than dry
enough, but also better reflect Germany’s winemaking tradition. This might be true of spätlese; but at the
cutting edge of dry riesling, with less than 9 grams of residual sugar, stand
the German grands crus: Grosses Gewächs.
These are the wines that make headlines in Germany and the wines that most
consumers drink when they go to the finest restaurants in the country.
The same system applies not only for riesling, but
for pinot gris, pinot blanc, silvaner and pinot noir as well. As these (THE GROSSES GEWÄCHS) ?? are
certainly Germany’s best dry wines, and dry or off-dry styles now account for
about three-quarters of domestic consumption, American consumers should at
least give them a try.
German wine
exports to the U.S. Although German
exports to America had risen dramatically over a number of years, the economic
crisis and weak U.S. dollar have put brakes on that development. The
AMERICAN market?? [which one??] is now apparently adrift in pessimism (THIS IS
A STATEMENT FROM TERRY THEISE). It
entered 2009 overstocked with unsold wines and is still working to deplete
them. This is why the segment below $20
or at most $30 is still relatively healthy: those wines are consumed, not purchased to lay
down.
While Rudi Wiest, one of the foremost importers of
German wines in America, expects his 2009 sales to be about what they were last
year, the weakness of the dollar is a cause of major concern for the industry
as a whole. The big question many have,
is what it will take to drive a German renaissance. Riesling certainly has its
place, but Terry Theise notes that “although it’s better (RIESLING’S
REPUTATION) ?? than it was, it’s still a variety more talked about than
purchased. I’d describe it as a solid
niche market.” “Overcoming the misconceptions about riesling is challenging,”
adds Sabrina Bochen of Truly Fine Wine in San Diego, “and it will take the
support of the larger industry (HER QUOTE. I THINK SHE MEANS ALL PLAYERS ON THE
AMERICAN MARKET) ?? to break down these stereotypes.”
Although I’ve been impressed by the increasing number
of dry rieslings being imported into the American market, I am not certain that
they are moving as they do elsewhere—in particular in the Scandinavian markets,
where they have overtaken French white wines as the benchmark both in price and
volume. Terry Theise, who beyond the
Mosel has now upped the ante on dry rieslings, (HE HAS TWICE AS MANY DRY
RIESLINGS AS ONLY TWO YEARS AGO) ?? concedes that his “actual sales lag
seriously behind the number of offerings, which makes me think people like the
sound of their own voices praising dry German rieslings, but when it’s time to
actually pony up, well, oops, they spent the budget on a Paraguayan Carignan
that just got 93 points somewhere or other.”
German
pinot noir, on the other hand, is still a curiosity. Although writers like Jancis Robinson (ERIC
ASIMOV JUST DID A TASTING IN NEW YORK A WEEK AGO OF ALL MY TOP 2007S AND WAS
APPARENTLY BOWLED OVER) adore it, it remains unclear whether it will have a
sustainable place in the market, whatever its quality, because it is too close
to the paradigm of Burgundy in price. If
someone has $50 or more to spend on a European pinot noir, he or she is
infinitely more likely to do so on Burgundy than on any of the unusual
alternatives.
Mittelrhein
After the extreme, often overripe 2006s
and 2007s, 2008 on the Mittelrhein is an engaging flashback to a more classical
vintage style, with all the good, bad and ugly that this entails. The wines are not nearly as consistent as in
2007, nor was there much in the way of late noble rot, but there is an
assortment of lively kabinetts, which is what most of us love to drink from
this region.
As
the alcohol levels were lower and the acidities brighter than in either of the
two previous vintages, there are only a handful of well-made dry wines, but
both Florian Weingart and Jochen Ratzenberger proved that it was still possible
to bottle small quantities of dry riesling that are among Germany’s finest.
The higher must weights in 2007 led to larger volumes
of off-dry rieslings, a discipline in which Matthias Müller remains the
yardstick, but it was the tangy kabinetts and crisp spätleses that showed 2008
at its best. Happily, the residual sugar
in most of the wines is finely balanced with lively acidity so that they remain
eminently drinkable. Consumers in
Germany, in any case, are looking to slightly drier styles and evidently like
the equilibrium that feinherb (off-dry or only slightly sweet) rieslings offer.
Only a handful of wines from the 25 other Mittelrhein
estates that I tasted this year merit serious attention, but Thomas Perll and Jens Didinger are certainly the best among those not featured in
full below. Both have bounced back after
one or two lackluster vintages. In
particular, Didinger’s Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken (88) and Riesling Spätlese
(89), both from the Feuerlay site, merit mention—and cost almost nothing. Most consumers, though, will see these wines
only in his own little restaurant near the Rhine. Given their attractive pricing (below $10 at
the winery), they are worth trying if your holiday travels take you along this
romantic stretch of the Rhine valley.
With only around 460 hectares (1,150 acres) under
vine, some two-thirds of which is riesling, the Mittelrhein is currently on few
American buyers’ priority lists. In
Germany, Holland and Scandinavia, on the other hand, the region is being taken
seriously by those looking for value, which these rieslings offer in spades and
which might soon put the Mittelrhein back on people’s minds in the States. If that happens, other producers like Friedrich Bastian, Dr. Randolf Kauer, Jörg
Lanius, Joachim Lorenz and Peter
Selt might receive more attention.
The 2008s turned out better than I or most insiders
in the region would have thought possible after the harvest last fall. Two thousand nine has most producers in a
state near ecstasy today. Will the wines
merit the soft (LEAVE OUT SOFT. I MEAN MERELY THAT THEY ARE NOT TRYING TO BOWL
US OVER AS THE TOP ESTATES IN BORDEAUX ARE DOING) ?? hype they are already
being given?
Toni Jost/Hahnenhof, Bacharach. Two thousand eight turned out
far better here than Peter Jost had first thought it might during harvest last
year. There are few stellar wines, but
the entire collection is well-crafted and all the rieslings are refreshingly
drinkable. Given the balanced style and
crisp acidity of the vintage, the kabinett and spätlese from the superb Hahn
vineyard were my two favorites. 2008
Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($??): Aromas of apricot, melon and acacia blossom. The palate offers ripe KIWI?? fruit with
spicy minerality and refreshing acidity. Just enough verve on the finish. 88. 2008 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Kabinett ($??): Lively aromas of melon, lime and
acacia blossom. Juicy STAR?? fruit is
perked up by spicy minerality and refreshing acidity. Light, fresh and splashy on the finish. 87. 2008 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spätlese ($??): Apple blossom, guava and pear on the nose. Crisp pear fruit shows just enough depth and
a firm slap of minerality. The wine’s
residual sugar is nicely balanced on the spicy finish. 88. Also
recommended: 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Bacharacher
Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Devon S (87),
2008 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Bacharacher
Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008
Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Auslese (88), 2006 Bacharacher Hahn Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken
(87). (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by
Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY)
Matthias Muller, Boppard. After his picture-perfect 2007s, most
anything here would have been a sequel this year. That said, Matthias Müller’s 2008s are, with
those of Florian Weingart, the finest of the vintage on the Mittelrhein. The wines have less alcohol, but they lack
nothing in terms of flavor or complexity. On the whole, the often difficult youthful aromas from spontaneous
fermentation are not quite so wild as in previous vintages. Again, the off-dry wines here are hard to
beat, but in terms of value the Feurlay Riesling Spätlese was my favorite. If I were an American importer, I would take
a close look at this estate.
2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg
Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken ($??): Elegant aromas of
clementine, lime and pine nuts. The
subtle apricot fruit is nicely balanced by the spicy acidity on the
palate. Finishes persistent and
refreshing. 88. 2008 Bopparder Hamm Mandelstein Riesling Spätlese Feinherb Edition MM ($??): Subdued aromas of apricot,
honeydew melon and acacia blossom. Subtle lime fruit and bracing acidity work almost dry on the
palate. Clean, crisp and spicy on the
long finish. This was to be the Grosses
Gewächs, but didn’t finish fermenting its sugar. 88. 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling
Spätlese ($??): Supple aromas of
cling peach, passion fruit and ginger. Light but surprisingly refreshing pear fruit gives way to mineral salts
on the palate. Displays nice balance on an elegantly
sweet finish. 89. 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling
Auslese ($??): Pale golden
yellow. Complex aromas of apricot,
vanilla and a hint of brown spice botrytis. The lively tropical fruit component is SO UNCTUOUS THAT IT?? belies the
wine’s crisp acidity, giving it structure and depth. Long and refined on the finish. 90. Also recommended: 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Trocken
Alte Reben (85), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87),
2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2008 Bopparder
Hamm Mandelstein Riesling Halbtrocken “MM” (87). 2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg
Riesling Feinherb (85), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Feinherb Alte
Reben (85), 2008 Riesling (86), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Riesling
Beerenauslese (92). (No importer)
Jochen Ratzenberger, Steeg. Although the entire collection
was well made, Jochen Ratzenberger obviously focused his attention on dry
riesling in 2008. His Grosses Gewächs
from the Wolfshöhle vineyard was one of the finest from the Mittelrhein. When drawing a comparison to 2007, he refers
to his 2008s as “lighter and more classical in style,” but his kabinetts and
spätleses were not quite as good as those of Peter Jost this year. On the other hand, he was about the only
vintner to produce an eiswein in 2008—and it is first-rate. This estate also consistently makes an
excellent sparkling riesling. 2008
Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Tightly focused aromas of pear, lime, sage
and pine nuts. Crisp apricot fruit
displays refreshing acidity and solid mineral depth. The ravishing finish shows exotic
spices. One of the best dry riesling
from the vintage on the Mittelrhein. 90. 2008 Bacharacher Kloster Fürstental Riesling Eiswein ($??): Golden yellow. Candied pineapple, mincemeat and sweet lime on the
nose. Very pure on the palate, with
crisp peach fruit spiked by bracing acidity. Boasts succulent richness on the long, spicy and refreshing finish. A true surprise for the vintage. 92. Also recommended: 2008 Steeger St. Jost Riesling Spätlese
Trocken (85), 2008
Steeger St. Jost Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Steeger St. Jost Riesling
Kabinett Halbtrocken (85), 2008 Bacharacher Posten Riesling Spätlese
Halbtrocken (85), 2008 Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Spätlese
(87). Other wines tasted: 2008 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Bacharacher Spätburgunder
Trocken Blanc de Noirs. (Sussex Wine Merchants,
Moorestown, NJ)
Florian
Weingart, Spay. Although Matthias Müller now gives him a
run for his money, Florian Weingart is clearly the leading producer from the
Mittelrhein at present. And he does
everything well, from dry riesling through feinherb styles to mouthwatering
kabinetts and spätleses. He says that
his German clients “find the drier rieslings more drinkable, but the kabinett should play
well in the States, especially
this year." The 2008s here are much
purer in style than they had been in the past, when high must weights,
spontaneous fermentations and partial malolactic conversions made some of the
wines appear overblown. Given the small quantities
produced, and the fact that the 2007 stopped fermenting with only 5.5% alcohol
(not enough to be labelled as a wine), Weingart blended his 2007 and 2008
Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (95) into a wine he named “7 & 8.” An unusual practice, yes, but an excellent
wine. 2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg
Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($??): A
cornucopia of orchard fruits on the nose, along with a sprig of spearmint. Juicy nectarine flavor shows steely depth, with lively acidity framing
the palate. Crisp and refreshingly spicy
on the finish. An
excellent dry riesling from the Mittelrhein. 90. 2008 Bopparder Hamm
Riesling Kabinett Feinherb ($??): Lively aromas of citrus fruits, clover and pine nuts. Crisp pear fruit, zingy acidity and uplifting
minerality on the palate, with just a hint of sweetness. More fun to drink than particularly serious. 87. 2008
Schloss Fürstenberg Riesling Kabinett ($??): Subtle aromas of pineapple, cinnamon and
mirabelle. Snappy peach fruit supported
by refreshing acidity on the palate. A
lively and eminently quaffable riesling. 88. 2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling
Spätlese ($??): Subtle aromas of peach, honeydew melon and
lilac. Elegant and harmonious, subtly
juxtaposing ripe papaya and crisp acidity. Refreshingly
spicy on the aftertaste. 89. Also
recommended: 2008 Bopparder
Hamm Ohligberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein
Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2008
Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90), 2008
Riesling Halbtrocken (85), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Kabinett
(88). Other wines tasted: Also tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken. (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael
Skurnik Wines, Syosset, New York)
Mosel
After a string of unusual vintages in which must
weights skyrocketed, 2008 marked a pleasing return to normalcy on the
Mosel. There were relatively few
ausleses, much less the upward range of stickies, but that is not what the
market is buying anyway—nor what you and I are drinking.
In less ostentatious vintages like 2007, many of the
kabinetts, and even most of the spatleses, were declassified auslese; but 2008
was much more classical. Must weights
were lower and acidities higher than in the previous vintages, a boon to
consumers who are tired of the often overblown rieslings that the past few
years have wrought.
Due to global warming, the Mosel is no longer at the
northern cusp of the metereologically possible for European grape growers. There are now vineyards in the Netherlands,
Denmark and Sweden that have that claim to fame, but nowhere is such a volume
of perfectly balanced off-dry and delicately sweet riesling produced as on the
Mosel, which over the past two decades, with perhaps the exception of 1991, has
not really had a bad vintage.
The problem that has arisen with the higher must
weights (read potential alcohols) and lower acidities is that kabinetts and
spätleses are richer than ever before. And because the producers do not want the alcohol levels to rise too
far, the finished wines sport far higher residual sugars. This trend has often appealed to journalists,
who felt they could recommend ausleses at the price of a kabinett, but it has
seriously impaired the drinkability of many of these wines, at least in their
youth.
Interestingly, many estates that had turned to the
dry or off-dry styles (Feinherb) have made more kabinetts and spätleses in
2008. Without the must weights to
balance the acidities, such wines are often awkward. The best truly dry Mosel rieslings in 2008
are from Kesselstatt and Molitor, while in the off-dry category
Heymann-Löwenstein remains the estate to beat. From the Saar, though, he now has serious competition in van Volxem.
The best values from the Mosel, however, continue to
be found at the kabinett level, often from lesser-known producers who have done
an excellent job in such a bright, classical vintage. In many cases there was
only a marginal difference in ripeness between the kabinett and spätlese, with
the estates choosing the predicate to apply to a given label based on their
assessment of the wine’s inner character and what the market would bear.
As my scores are generally conservative, a kabinett
with 87 to 89 points is not only an excellent wine to drink, but given its
lower residual sugar it tastes drier and can be more readily consumed in its
youth. My highest mark for a kabinett in
2008 was 92 points for Joh. Jos. Prum’s Wehlener Sonnenuhr, followed by equally
fascinating wines from Molitor, Jos. Christoffel Jr., Adam (!), Willi Schaefer
and Schloss Lieser.
Similarly, the most thirst-quenching spätleses are
those with 89 to 91 points that need only moderate cellaring before hitting the
right balance. Perhaps, as I wrote last
year, I should be scoring these wines with 93, 94 or 95 points, as some of my
colleagues do, but I have tried to avoid grade inflation. Indeed, my highest mark for a spätlese this
year was 94 points for the Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr #14 from Fritz Haag,
with Schloss Lieser, Willi Schaefer and Vollenweider hard at his heels for top
honors.
In general, the ausleses, if they were made at all,
were only marginally better than the spätleses from the same vineyard. Often,
in fact, I thought the spätleses were more exciting. More is not necessarily better. Exceptions like those of Reinhold Haart,
Fritz Haag, Clemens Busch, Joh. Jos. Prüm and Schloss Lieser only prove the
rule.
Fritz Haag, Schloss Lieser, Markus Molitor (!) and
Joh. Jos. Prüm certainly had the best overall collections in 2008, but they
were certainly not alone. Clemens Busch,
Willi Schäfer and Vollenweider also made impeccable wines, the latter two in a
style that I have always liked to drink. I tasted the wines from 171 estates on the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer over
the course of the summer and fall. Beyond the 22 estates from the middle stretches of the Mosel portrayed
in full below, there are at least another two or three dozen that merit
attention. I have briefly portrayed most
of these in alphabetical order below, highlighting a couple of their finer
rieslings. Of those latter producers,
Becker-Steinhauer, Karl Erbes, Dr. Hermann and Weiser-Künstler are currently
the most interesting and may soon receive full coverage.
Karsten Becker from Becker-Steinhauer (Vineyard Research, Lunenberg, MA) in Mülheim is
certainly not a household name in America, but his rise over the past few
vintages has been surprising in the established pecking order on the
Mosel. Although he made two ausleses
that were a touch richer, my favorite wines this year were the 2008 Veldenzer Carlserg
Riesling Spätlese (89) and the 2008 Brauneberger-Juffer Riesling Spätlese (89), both of which offer
excellent value.
With 325 acres of choice
vineyards and a total production of some 800,000 bottles, the Bischöfliche Weingüter in Trier is one of
the largest estates on the Mosel. For
years, though, the enormous potential of their legendary sites was hardly
tapped. Over the past three vintages the
quality has improved markedly. My
favorite of their rieslings in 2008 were the Ayler Kupp Spätlese (88) and
Scharzhofberger Spätlese (89).
Eva Clüsserath from Ansgar Clüsserath (Terry Theise) in Trittenheim is married to
Philip Wittmann from Rheinhessen, which might explain why her dry wines are
often the best produced here. My top
note in 2008 went to the Trittenheimer
Apotheke Riesling Trocken (89). As was
the case last year, the off-dry 2008 Riesling Fährfels (89) from Gerhard Eifel
at Clüsserath-Eifel in Trittenheim
showed better even than his 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese (88). On the whole, though, the 2008s at this
estate were more animating (LIVELY, CRISP, FUN TO DRINK)?? than the 2007s,
which was not the case for most producers. Helmut
Clüsserath from Clüsserath-Weiler in
the same village not only also made an excellent off-dry Fahrfels (89) in 2008,
but shone as well with a Spätlese (88), Auslese (89) and Eiswein (90) from his
Apotheke vineyards.
As he exports most of the 45,000
bottles he produces, Stefan Erbes from Karl
Erbes (Winebow, Inc., New York, NY) in Ürzig remains relatively unknown in
Germany, but that is changing as quality at his estate continues to mount. From his flagship Würzgarten vineyard he
bottled six exciting wines this year, including a Kabinett (88), Spätlese
Kranklay (89), Auslese (90) and Eiswein (91). This is an estate that I take very seriously and that may soon merit
full coverage. With the 2008 vintage, Franz-Josef Eifel in Trittenheim also
appears to be back in form. I ejoyed the Alte Reben (88) from his Apotheke
vineyards as well as an Auslese (89) and Eiswein (91) from the neighboring
Altärchen site.
The Neefer Frauenberg and
Bremmer Calmont are the two steepest vineyards in all of Europe. The most esteemed estate there?? [where?? ON
THIS LITTLE KNOWN CURVE OF THE MOSEL] is that of Reinhold Franzen. He does
not use predicates like kabinett or spätlese and vinifies almost all of his
rieslings to total dryness. I marked the
dry gold capsule bottlings from each site with 88 points this year.
Marcus Haag from Willi Haag in Brauneberg is certainly
not as well known as his distant cousin Oliver from Fritz Haag in the same
village. Both estates were once part of
the Ferdinand Haag property, which was split in the early 1960s between the two
sons. Willi’s Brauneberger Juffer
Riesling Spätlese (88) and Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (88) were the
pinnacles of his 2008 collection.
Long on value are the 2008
Piesporter Domherr Riesling Spätlese #13 (87) and even more so the 2008
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett (88) of Gerd Haart from Johann Haart (Winebow, Inc., New York,
NY) in Piesport, whose wines are both consistently good and a bargain. Although his dry and off-dry rieslings were
not as convincing in 2008 as they were in 2007, the spätlese and auslese from
Gernot Hain at Kurt Hain, also based
in Piesport, were every bit as good as last year. I liked both his 2008 Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese (88) and the Auslese (89) from the same site.
More consisent were the wines of
Rudi Herman and son Christian from Dr.
Hermann in Erden (Boutique Wines, Philadelphia, PA). Long relatively unknown, this estate has
charged to the forefront over the past few vintages. In spite of what some would call their rather
old-fashioned style, this is Mosel riesling at its best. Although there was not a weak spot in the
2008 offering, spätlese and auslese remain their strong suits. The 2008 Ürziger
Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (88) and Erdener Treppchen Herzlay Riesling
Spätlese (88) were both mouthwatering, with a 2008 Erdener PRÄLAT?? Riesling
Auslese Gold Capsule (90) and Treppchen Eiswein Gold Capsule (91) thrown in for
good measure.
Ernst-Josef and Werner Kees from Kees-Kieren in Graach made an excellent auction kabinett (87) from
their Treppchen vineyards in Erden, although their spätlese was not any
better. The other auction wine, the 2008
Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese *** (91), was the
highlight of the vintage at the estate. The
wines of Heribert Kerpen (Terry
Theise) in Wehlen were again quite succulent, but they did not quite have the
depth or finesse of previous vintages. My favorites this year were his 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling
Spätlese * (87) and Auslese (88) from
the same site.
With few exceptions, the wines of Karl-Josef Loewen
from Carl Loewen (Terry Theise) in
Leiwein have become more consistent over the past few vintages. The entry-level wines were perhaps more
appealing in 2007, but the 2008 Thörnicher Ritsch Riesling Spätlese (89) and
2008 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Eiswein (91) were hard to beat this
year. Two thousand seven was one of the
best vintages that Andreas
Barth, also the winemaker at von Othegraven on the Saar, had ever produced at Lubentiushof (Frances Rose Imports, Huntley,
IL) in
Niederfell. Although the quality level
remains high in 2008, the newer collection of wines does not shine with quite
the same intensity. My two favorite rieslings this year were the 2008 Feinherb
Alte Reben (88) and the 2008 Kabinett (87), both from the Gans vineyard in
Gondorf.
Although Reil is a name few collectors know, the
wines from Thorsten Melsheimer (Domaine Select
Wine Estates, New York, NY) may soon put that village on the map. Two thousand eight was perhaps not a vintage for the dry rieslings that
are often Melsheimer’s strong suit, but the 2008 Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Riesling
Spätlese Schaf (89) and Eiswein (93) from the same vineyard are solid proof of his
talent. Alfred
Merkelbach (Terry Theise) in Ürzig has played a steady hand over the past two vintages,
with his 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese #18 (88) being my call among
this year’s wines. The Auslese (87) from
the same site was richer, but less pure in its fruit. Markus Milz (Rudi Wiest) and his winemaker
Thomas Hermes from Laurentiushof in
Trittenheim generally make appealing wines for easy drinking. In vintages like 1998 and 2005 they can claim
higher ground, but the 2008 Trittenheimer Felsenkopf Riesling Spätlese (87) and
2008 Trittenheimer Leiterchen Riesling Spätlese (87) fall generally into the
former category.
Robert Eymael from Mönchhof (Rudi Wiest) in Ürzig has his
own style. In leaner vintages like 2008
the wines can be somewhat light and taut. The 2008
Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese (88) was the top of the bill this year, which
speaks volumes for the rest of the lot. (IT WAS NOT SO GOOD. I MENTION THE
ESTATE BECAUSE RUDI WIEST SELLS THEM)?? Martin Müllen in Traben-Trarbach has
been much more consistent over the past few vintages. Although Traben-Trarbach is better known as a
tourist haven than it is for its fine wines, a stop here after a boat tour is
well worth the time. I liked his 2008
Trarbacher Hühnerberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken SF (88) and Feinherb 8.8 (88)
from the same site. On the delicately
sweet side, his 2008 Kröver Paradies Riesling Spätlese * (88) was my favorite.
Long known for their excellent off-dry rieslings, Klaus and Olivier
Jüngling from Paulinshof (Monarchia
Matt International, Armonk, NY) in Kesten did well over a wider range of wines
this year. Their Brauneberger Kammer
Riesling Auslese Trocken (88) was one of the better?? [at 88 points?? YES. 88
AND UP ARE HIGH NOTES FOR DRY RIESLINGS FROM THE MOSEL] dry rieslings from the
Mosel in 2008, their Spätlese Feinherb (88) from the same site an old favorite
and the 2008 Brauneberger-Juffer Spätlese (90) the most animated of this year’s
offerings.
Stefan Pauly at Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler (Winesellers,
Ltd., Skokie, IL) in Kues has been on an upward curve for the past three or
four vintages. Although his dry and
off-dry rieslings are not quite of the same quality in 2008, there were a
number of classical spätleses and ausleses in this year’s line-up, with the
2008 Ürziger Goldwingert Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben (88) and 2008
Bernkasteler Alte Badstube am Doktorberg Riesling Auslese (90) being the most
noble.
Thomas and Claus-Martin Richter
from Richard Richter are the third
of the interesting estates in the village of Winningen (along with
Heymann-Löwenstein and Reinhard and Beate Knebel) on the lower Mosel near its
confluence with the Rhine. The climate
here has tended to favor dry and off-dry styles, as the 2008 Winninger
Brückstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87) and Spätlese Feinherb (88) readily
attest, but the stickies can also be excellent.
Werner Rosch from Josef Rosch led a dry revolution among the then-young producers in
Leiwen in the late ’80s, and he is still known and in some cases even revered
for such rieslings. (I much prefer them
wet.) His Riesling Spätlese (87) and
Auslese (89) from the Apotheke vineyard in Trittenheim were my favorites this
year.
After an appealing collection last year, Stephan and
Gerhard Studert from Studert-Prüm (Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL) were again on even keel in 2008, with their Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Spätlese (88) being the benchmark for the vintage here. Wwe.
Dr. H. Thanisch/Erben Müller-Burggraef, the other Thanisch estate, recently
brought in Maximilian Ferger to resurrect their fortunes. Already, the 2008s show this old estate on a
new course. They made two very pleasant
kabinetts, but it was the 2008 Bernkastler ?? Graben Riesling Spätlese (88),
2008 Bernkastler?? Lay Riesling Spätlese (89) and 2008 Bernkastler?? Doctor
Riesling Auslese (90) that sport the true colors of change. (ALL SHOULD HAVE AN
L LIKE NOW)
After a stunning TBA last year, Norbert Breit from Wegeler (Rudi Wiest) in Bernkastel made an elegant 2008
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (88) and a richer 2008 Bernkasteler Doktor
Riesling Spätlese (89). As I wrote last
year, if the entry-level wines were more consistent, this estate could merit
full coverage. With about eight acres of
vineyard and a total production of only 12,000 bottles, the wines of Konstantin
Weise and Alexander Künstler from Weiser-Künstler in Traben-Trarbach are certainly not widely available, but they are worth the
detour. Their core vineyard is the
Ellergrub in Enkirch, which they purchased in 2006. Still a terrassed site, it boasts
100-year-old vines planted on their own rootstock. I rated six of the eight rieslings that I saw
here at 88 points or higher—and all eight were good. Try finding the 2008 Enkircher Ellergrub
Riesling Kabinett (89) or 2008 Enkircher Zeppwingert Riesling Spätlese (91) in
order to have a taste of their style. This could be one of the Mosel’s new stars.
A. J. Adam, Drohn. Although
he has for years been slowly resurrecting the Hofberg vineyard in Drohn, which
on old Prussian maps was always colored as one of the finest sites on the
Mosel, Andreas Adams only returned to his family estate in the spring of 2006
after finishing his studies in Geisenheim. Even though he has since slightly enlarged his holdings and currently
makes 18,000 bottles a year, you’ll have to search hard to find THE KABINETT
BELOW?? kabinett. One of the ten finest
of its ilk in 2008, it is well worth the search—and it costs next to
nothing. 2008 Drohner Hofberg Riesling
Kabinett ($??): Fresh bouquet of pear and
apple blossom. Delicately sweet on the
palate, with a nice interplay of apricot and luscious citricity. Lip-smacking elegance on the long
finish. An exemplary kabinett. 90. 2008 Drohner Hofberg Riesling Spätlese ($??): Sweet floral aromas with a hint of raspberry. Rich, juicy and persistently honeyed on the
palate, which features a dominant flavor of cling peach. The finish is soft and low-keyed, with peach
and mineral salts. Both pleasing and
impressive. 90(+?). Also
recommended: 2008 Drohner
Hofberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (88), 2008 Drohner Riesling (86), 2008
Drohner Hofberg Riesling (88), 2008 Drohner Hofberg Riesling Auslese (88). (Terry Theise)
Clemens Busch, Pünderich. Although Clemens
Busch has only just begun to garner a modicum of international attention, he
must now be reckoned among the top dozen or so stars of the Mosel. Long an organic winery, his estate was
admitted to the ranks of the VDP in 2007, shortly after turning to biodynamics
four years ago. His focus has long been
on dry and off-dry rieslings, which are often some of the best produced on the
Mosel, yet it has often been the noble sweet wines that truly set him
apart. He now releases some of his dry
wines after a year or two in bottle, as previously these had frequently been
perplexing in their youth—and more so than his kabinetts or spätleses. Two ausleses
crown this year’s production. 2008
Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Kabinett ($??): Apricot pit and sweet lime on
the nose. The bright tropical fruit flavors are nicely balanced by spicy
acidity on the palate. Persistently
light and refreshing on the finish. 89. 2008 Pündericher Marienburg
Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule ($??): Distinctive bouquet delivers passion fruit, pine nuts
and clove. Elegant peach fruit and a
rich minerality provide enormous character. Dense yet delicately spiced, this spätlese finishes with outsanding
length. 92. 2008 Pündericher Marienburg
Fahrlay Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Apricot preserves, orange and mango on the nose. The unctuous peach fruitt and honeyed texture
rise above the wine’s crisp acidity. Rich, spicy and elegant on the finish. 94. 2008 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling
Auslese Gold Capsule ($??): Golden yellow. Distinguished aromas of pineapple,
blackcurrant and nutmeg, with a hint of smoky botrytis. The rich, buttery passion fruit flavor is
nicely accentuated by saline minerality. Pure, crisp and decidedly rich, with elegant concentration and
impressive length. One of the top
ausleses of the vintage! 95. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling
Trocken Vom Grauen Schiefer (86), 2008 Pündericher Marienberg Fahrlay Riesling Trocken
Terrassen (87), 2008 Pündericher Marienberg Fahrlay Riesling Trocken (88), 2008
Pündericher Marienberg Falkenlay Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008
Pündericher Marienberg Riesling Trocken Felsterrassen (90), 2008 Pündericher
Marienberg Falkenlay Riesling Feinherb (89), 2008 Pündericher Marienberg
Fahrlay Riesling Spätlese Auction Wine (91), 2008 Pündericher Marienburg
Falkenlay Riesling Auslese (93), 2008 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling
Beerenauslese (94). Other wines
tasted: 2008
Pündericher Marienberg Riesling Feinherb Vom Roten Schiefer. (Mosel Wine Merchants in
Trier??)
Joh. Jos. Christoffel
Erben, Ürzig. After lackluster 2007s, the
2008s here show a bit more cheer. The
dry rieslings that this estate needs for the domestic market seldom win my
accolades, and even the kabinetts and spätleses are not as brilliant as they
were before Hans-Leo Christoffel leased his vineyards to Robert Eymael from
Mönchhof, where the wines are now made. 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese: Attractive floral, apple and
hazelnut aromas. The delicate texture of
peach fruit is nicely paired with an understated acidity. Well-balanced but still somewhat withdrawn. 87. 2008
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese: Pale golden yellow. Rich bouquet of mango, pineapple
and nut oil with a hit of honeyed botrytis. Unctuous apricot fruit is complicated by an elegant minerality. Somewhat
austere on the finish. 89. Also
recommended: 2008 Ürziger Wurzgarten
Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (87). Other wines tasted: 2008
Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Trocken, 2008 Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett
Trocken, 2008 Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spätlese Trocken, 2008 Ürziger
Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Feinherb. (Terry Theise)
Jos. Christoffel Jr., Ürzig. With a total production of
only about 20,000 bottles of year from some five acres of vineyards, the wines
of Karl-Josef Christoffel are neither widely known nor seen, but they are
certainly worth seeking out. The wealth
of older vintages still available at the estate attests to fact that he has
been making fine rieslings for years. Although the spätleses and ausleses are richer in flavor, the star of
this year’s line-up is definitely the Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett, a beautiful
expression of its vineyard’s character and very attractively priced. 2008
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett: Bright aromas of pear, sweet herbs and lemon candy. Glossy apricot pit flavor supported by harmonious
mineral structure. With its subtly
sweet, persistent finish, this is one of the finest kabinetts of the
vintage. 90. 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese: Peach, mango and a hint of honey on the nose. The lush, sweet peach pit and subtle spice
flavors are highlighted by underlying. This well-balanced and extremely elegant wine finishes with appealing
length. 91. 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese
**: Pale golden yellow. Pear preserves, honey and nut oils on the
nose. Very bright, ripe dried apricot
fruit and insistent slate set the tone. Finishes with sweet herbal spices and excellent length. Very satisfying. 92. Also
recommended: 2008 Ürziger Wurzgarten
Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (90), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (89),
2008 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese (92). (ImportANT
Wines, Venice, FL; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR)
Clüsserath-Weiler, Trittenheim. The lion’s share of Helmut
Clüsserath’s rieslings are made in a dry or off-dry style, and several of these
turned out well in 2008, but the vintage seemed to call for a touch more
residual sugar. With the help of his
daughter Verena, Clüsserath has expanded his production to 50,000 bottles and,
more importantly, his wines have become considerably more consistent in
quality. 2008 Riesling Feinherb
Fahrfels ($??): Inviting aromas of
yellow plum, papaya and nut oils. The
creamy peach fruit and saline concentration provide nice depth, with vibrant
mineral salts keeping the palate fresh. A crisp and clean wine with fine potential. 89. 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese ($??): Tangerine and lemon candy on the nose. Crisp and assertive on the palate, then rich
and clean on the finish, with a note of slate. 88. 2008 Trittenheimer
Apotheke Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Mandarin orange, hazelnut and candied lemon on the
nose. Luscious white peach flavor is
brightened by tangy citrus acidity. Offers an appealing interplay of flavors, with brown spice and slate
emerging on the finish. 89. Also
recommended: 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese
Trocken (85), 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (87),
2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (87), 2008 Mehringer
Zellerberg Riesling Feinherb Alte Reben (88), 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke
Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese ** (89), 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Eiswein (90). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Trittenheimer
Apotheke Riesling Kabinett Feinherb. (Magellan Wine
Imports, Centennial, CO; Matt Brothers, Armonk, NY)
Grans-Fassian,
Leiwen. I’ve been critical of this estate for some
time, but Gerhard
Grans turned out a 2007 collection that worked nicely across the board. His 2008 rieslings are perhaps even better,
with the Trittenheimer Kabinett and Goldtröpchen Spätlese being my two
favorites. 2008 Trittenheimer Riesling
Kabinett ($??): Melon and lemongrass on the
nose. Succulent cherry pit and subtle
slate underscore the palate. A touch
austere, but with an animated finish. 88. 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese ($??): Subtle bouquet of white peach, apple blossom and
mint. Soft and gentle, with sweet
apricot fruit nicely balanced by ripe but understated acidity. Finishes with
appealing length. 90. 2008
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese ($??): Lively aromas of fresh apple,
tropical fruit and nut oils. The juicy
papaya fruit and attractive depth are kept light by an invigorating acidity.
Toasted nuts and a distinct slate accent refresh the long finish. 91. 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($??): Pale golden yellow. Fruit-driven aromas of white peach and
persimmon, lifted by a floral element. Lush and velvety on the palate, with ripe apricot fruit nicely framed by
flinty acidity. Rich, spicy and
persistent, if not as vibrant on the back end as the spätlese. 90. Also
recommended: 2008 Riesling Trocken
Mineralschiefer (85), 2008 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spätlese Trocken “S”
(86), 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (87),
2008 Drohn-Hofberger Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Riesling
Feinherb Catherina (85). (Acadia Imports)??
Fritz Haag, Brauneberg. Following
breathtaking 2006s and crisp, pure 2007s, 2008 is another outstanding year
here. Although the latest vintage will
certainly not be remembered as an auslese vintage on the Mosel, Oliver Haag
bottled five different versions, all of exemplary quality. Moreover, his kabinetts and spätleses were
mouthwatering and even the dry rieslings, never the hallmark of this estate,
are quite good, and the Grosses Gewächs first class. Anyone who doubted that son Oliver would be
able to follow in his father’s footsteps has been silenced by the past three
vintages. 2008 Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??): Bright aromas of white peach,
quince and nutmeg. Succulent apricot
fruit lifted by tantalizing slate and invigorating acidity. Nicely balanced and
long, this is a surprisingly fine dry wine from an austere vintage. 89. 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($??): Strawberry and lime oil on the nose. Kiwi and nutmeg flavors enliven the
palate. Finishes crish and nicely
balanced. 88. 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese ($??): Elegant aromas of cherry,
apple blossom and hazelnut. Sweet and
creamy on the palate, tinged with herbs, nuts and vanilla. Conveys a fine balance and a nice underlying
sense of slate. Finishes with excellent
length. 91. 2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($??): Subtle floral bouquet complements gooseberry and nut
oil. On the palate the creamy papaya
fruit is counterpointed by citrus fruits and slate. The persistent finish displays an amalgamation
of spices and mineral salts. 90(+?). 2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr
Riesling Spätlese #14 (auction wine): Enticing bouquet of wild
strawberry, brown spices and woodsmoke. Candied lemon and ripe tropical fruits
swell from the lusciously sweet texture and are given character and shape by
the wine’s brilliant acidity. Rich and dense yet ethereal, this is one of the
finest spätleses of the vintage. Finishes with stunning length. 94. 2008
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ($??): Golden yellow. Ripe peach, mango and acacia honey waft over
spicy botrytis on the nose. Creamy and
glossy, with tropical fruit flavors complicated by acacia honey and a sweet
herbal note. Remains, pure, shapely and
slatey through the impressively long finish. 93. 2008
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction
wine): Golden yellow. Flamboyantly rich aromas of pear preserves,
wild honey and clove are embedded in smoky botrytis. Rich and creamy, with a candied apricot
flavor studded with lime peel—and brown spices thrown in for good measure. This wonderfully elegant wine is certainly one of the finest
ausleses of the vintage. 95. Also
recommended: 2008 Riesling
Trocken (85), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Brauneberger
Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Feinherb
(86), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese (92), 2008 Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #10 (93), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr
Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (94). (Rudi Wiest)
Reinhold Haart, Piesport. Two thousand
five remains Theo Haart’s benchmark vintage, but the three following years have
all had their charming qualities. His
dry rieslings are now regularly among the finest of the region and his
kabinetts and spätleses from the Goldtröpchen site are hard to beat in terms of
sheer drinkability. Still, it is auslese
from the same vineyard that was the ringer in this year’s collection, and
certainly one of the finest wines of the vintage. 2008 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling
Kabinett Erste Lage ($??): Apple blossom and sweet herbs
on the nose. The palate spotlights firm
apricot pit flavor, offering an attractive balance of sweetness and
acidity. The elegant finish features persistent
slate minerality. 88. 2008 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Spätlese Erste
Lage ($??): Delicate aromas of green apple, lemon oils and
clover. The kiwi flavor is light and
lively but at the same time velvety on the palate. Rose petal and saline minerality mingle on a
crisp, well-balanced finish. Very
appealing. 90. 2008
Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Auslese Erste Lage ($??): Pale
golden yellow. Exuberant aromas of orange blossom, vanilla
and lemon candy wrapped in subdued botrytis. Vanilla cream and mango flavors are supported by uplifting acids, giving
this lush wine a firm structure and elegant viscosity. [anything to say about the level of
concentration/intensity of a 95-point wine??] ALMOST ETHEREAL IN SPITE OF THE ENORMOUS CONCENTRATION OF FLAVORS, the
extremely long finish refreshes with its spice character. This very impressive wine is one of the great
ausleses of the vintage. 95. Also recommended: 2008 Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Trocken
Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Trocken Grosses
Gewächs (89), 2008 Piesporter Kreuzwingert Riesling Feinherb (88). Other wines tasted: 2008 Piesporter Riesling Feinherb Haart to Heart. (Rudi Wiest)
Heymann-Löwenstein,
Winningen. Reinhard Löwenstein’s 2007 were so good that anything
in 2008 would appear to be a sequel. The
entry-level wines had so much depth and saline minerality last year that the
single-vineyard offerings could hardly assert themselves. The 2008s do not appear to have quite the
same intrinsic quality, but certainly possess a more vibrant acidity. In fact, the Kirchberg in Hatzenport, which
had not always showed the same precision as the rieslings from the vineyards in
Winningen, was just as lively this year. With his colleague Van Volxem on the Saar, this is the producer who has
understood just what great off-dry rieslings should taste like. For most palates, the wines are more than dry
enough—and pair well with food at a meal. As always, the Rothlay spends 18 months on its lees before being bottled
and released, which is why one 2007 is portrayed this year. 2008 Winninger Röttgen Riesling ($??): White peach, nut oils and woodsmoke on the nose. The apricot flavor is creamy yet brisk and
lively. Nicely balanced riesling with
good depth and spicy minerality on the finish. 89. 2008 Winninger
Uhlen Blaufüsser Lay Riesling ($??): Bright aromas of wild peach,
nut oils and wet stone. Pungent apricot
pit flavor with fine grip and an uplifting mineral finish. Subtle and seductively long. 90. 2008 Winninger Uhlen Laubach Riesling ($??): Unctuous bouquet of apricot, pine nuts and sweet
lime. Rich, almost oily peach skin
flavor manages to come across as impressively bright and clear. Offers a nice juxtaposition of restrained
residual sugar, bracing acidity and tweaked?? minerality on the finish. A rare breed. 91. 2007 Winninger Röttgen Roth
Lay Riesling ($??): Rich aromas of
tropical fruit, persimmon and smoky spices. Concentrated apricot fruit and compressed minerality animate the
palate. With its rich, dense and complex
finish reminiscent of the Pfalz, this riesling is maturing nicely. Impressive! 93. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling
Vom Blauen Schiefer (87), 2008 Riesling Schieferterrassen (88), 2008
Hatzenporter Kirchberg Riesling Erste Lage (90). (Chambers & Chambers, San
Francisco, CA; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; Weygandt-Metzler
Importing, Unionville, PA)
Reichsgraf
von Kesselstatt, Trier. They have stunning vineyards in almost all
of the well-known sites on the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer, yet it was Kesselstatt’s
monopoly holdings in the Josephshof in Graach that brought forth the most
distinguished wines in 2008. That said,
this collection was good from start to finish this year, which given their size
makes them a safe bet
for any consumer looking for fine German riesling. Once quite focused on off-dry styles,
Kesselstatt has placed more emphasis on Grosses Gewächs in recent years and
certainly bottles more fine?? [TOP NOTCH synonym??] dry riesling than anyone
else on the Mosel today. More important,
the kabinetts and spätleses from this estate have become extremely consistent
as well. 2008 Josephshöfer Riesling
Grosses Gewächs ($??): Impressive
aromas of white peach, pine nuts and lime oil. Glossy but elegant and quite
full-bodied for the vintage, this dry riesling remains crisp and pure. The clean finish features lime and discreet
slate. 90. 2008 Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett ($??): Pear, cherry pit and
honeysuckle on the nose. Offers a
delicate NECTARINE FRUIT ON THE palate, with mouthwatering freshness, crisp
minerality and an appealing finish. Anything else on palate?? 88. 2008 Scharzhofbergerger Riesling Spätlese ($??): Lively floral aroma lifts
fresh apricot and toasted almond. Subtly
creamy tropical fruit flavors show a delicate texture and tangy acidity. Compact and spicy on the finish. 90. 2008
Josephshöfer Riesling Spätlese ($??): Elegant
bouquet of pear, honeysuckle and sweet spice. Refined, ripe papaya FRUIT WITH VELVETY texture?? AND delicate minerality. Very nicely balanced wine, with a crisp,
animated length. 91. Also recommended: 2008 Kaseler Riesling Trocken (85), 2008
Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen
Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett
Feinherb (86), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Eiswein
Long Gold Capsule (92). Other wines
tasted: 2008 Graacher Riesling
Trocken. (Valkenberg)
Reinhard & Beate Knebel, Winningen. The dry and off-dry rieslings with which this estate
first built its reputation have not been quite as consistent since Reinhard
Knebel’s suicide after the 2003 vintage. However, the auslese and higher-predicate wines, although made in only
minute quantities, remain excellent. Two
thousand eight saw not only a new and much more legible label for the wines,
but also the entry of Beate Knebel’s oldest son into the affairs of the
estate. 2008 Winninger Brückstück
Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben ($??): Supple bouquet of white peach,
blackcurrant and mint. Glossy apricot
fruit is supported by understated acidity. The satisfying finish shows an herbal aspect, along with a touch of
slate. 88. 2008 Winninger Röttgen
Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($??): Pale golden yellow. Aromas of tangerine and
vanilla lifted by a floral element and a hint of brown spice botrytis. Creamy
but elegant papaya fruit complicated by refreshing salts and toasted
almond. Attractive layers of sweet
flavor linger on the long, nicely balanced finish. 92. 2008 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Beerenauslese ($??): Golden yellow. Exuberant aromas of white peach, roasted almond
and lime peel on a bed of smoke botrytis. Rich passion fruit flavors shows a honeyed texture and a decidedly
saline minerality. With its refreshing
spice, ARISTOCRATIC BEARING AND pure finish??, this wine is both majestic and promising—and in need of time in
bottle. 94. 2008 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Eiswein ($??): Pale golden yellow with a green tinge. Intense aromas of black tea, orange rind and lemon
oil. The supple black cherry flavors are
framed and enlivened by finely chiseled minerality. Dense yet elegant, this is what eiswein
should be! Very impressive. 94. Also recommended: 2008
Winninger Röttgen Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2008 Winninger Uhlen Riesling
Spätlese Trocken (86), 2008 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Spätlese Feinherb Alte
Reben (87), 2008 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Winninger
Brückstück Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (86). Other wines tasted: 2008
Winninger Riesling Trocken. (Dee Vine Wines)
Schloss Lieser, Lieser. In a vintage that brought few
ausleses and fewer still that are worth their price, Thomas Haag made five—and
they are all first class. His kabinetts
and spätleses, though, were no less fascinating; and although I am still not a
great fan of his dry wines, they were noticeably better than those he bottled
last year. This was certainly one of the
best selections of wines on the Mosel this year. If you haven’t heard of Lieser yet, take a
look at the map. 2008 Brauneberger
Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($27): Bright aromas
of peach pit, lemon oil and clove. Juicy
kiwi fruit is nicely lifted by vibrant acidity and a floral element. Dense yet
ethereal, with a pleasing spiciness and an appealing finish, this is one of the
best kabinetts of the vintage. 89. 2008 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spätlese ($??): Fruit-driven aromas of apricot and quince,
perked up by a floral element. The complex tropical fruit flavors are paired
with a touch of licorice and a good shot of slate. The fine balance of sweetness and acidity
partly masks this wine’s impressive concentration. Excellent length and potential here. 92. 2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (auction
wine): Lively aromas of nectarine, candied lemon and nut
oils. Elegant, spicy peach pit flavor
displays impressive extract and saline acidity. Finishes creamy and convincing, with brown spices lingering
persistently. An excellent
spätlese! 93. 2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ($42): Pale golden yellow. Rich aromas of mango, passion fruit and
clove. Baked pineapple and glazed honey
are kept in balance by an understated salinity. Hints of caramel and brown spice add complexity to the long finish. 93. 2008
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction
wine): Bright, crisp nose is driven by candied peach, lemon
oil and acacia honey, almost in spite of?? the brown spice botrytis. The lusciously sweet tropical fruit palate
maintains a remarkable delicacy in spite of the wine’s richness and depth. The long, glossy finish is underscored by
slate and a refined spiciness. Few
ausleses from the vintage have this much class. Hats off! 94. Also
recommended: 2008 Schloss Lieser Riesling Trocken (86),
2008 Lieser Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Schloss Lieser Riesling
Feinherb (86), 2008 Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett (89), 2008 Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (91), 2008 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling
Auslese (92), 2008 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (92),
2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (92). (Rudi Wiest)
Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel. Few if any German producers
are as well-known abroad as Ernie Loosen, who was even named Man of the Year by
Decanter recently. For his contributions
to the worldwide renaissance of riesling on the international stage, and in
particular German riesling, he more than merits that title. Although 2008 is not flush with the stickies
that he so enjoys making and selling, his kabinetts and spätleses are more
enticing this year than were the 2007s—and the Grosses Gewächs from the
Würzgarten site in Urzig is one of the best dry rieslings from the Mosel in
2008. 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett ($??): Apple
blossom and smoked almond on the nose. The apricot fruit shows a distinctly luscious quality but is firmed by a
fine mineral edge. The appealing finish
features slate and allspice. 88. 2008
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese ($??): Subtle bouquet of peach pit, cinnamon and lemon
zest. The elegant white peach fruit is
decidedly light on the palate, highlighted by refreshing acidity. Mineral salts accent the pleasing
finish. 89. 2008 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Mango, clover and lemon oil on the nose. Sleek and refined on the palate, with a juicy
mouthwatering freshness. Finishes
gracefully, with tropical fruit, almonds and slate. This very nicely balanced auslese still needs
time to reveal its potential. 91. 2008 Erdener Prälat Riesling
Auslese Gold Capsule ($??): Golden yellow. Scents of
apple blossom, white raisin and quince are highlighted by a hint of spicy
botrytis. Luscious, candied fruit shows
a velvety texture but an element of minty acidity keeps the palate fresh. Dense yet light on its feet, with an element
of mineral salts providing spice on the long, elegant finish. 92. Also
recommended: 2008 Bernkasteler Lay
Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Alte Reben Riesling Grosses
Gewächs (88), 2008 Riesling Satyricus (85), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling
Kabinett (86), 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (88), 2008 Ürziger
Würzgarten Riesling Auslese (89). Other
wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken,
2008 Riesling Trocken Blauschiefer. (Loosen Brothers, Portland,
OR)
Meulenhof,
Erden. Stefan Justen is one of the
Mosel’s silent stars. Not only has he
brought his own Meulenhof out of anonymity over the past few vintages, he also
makes the wines at the estate of Stephan Ehlen. This year those from Meulenhof
take my nod. At the head of a trio of
succulent spätleses stands the old vines riesling from the Treppchen site.
2008 Erdener
Prälat Riesling Spätlese: Passion fruit and lemon candy
on the nose. More smoke and slate than
pineapple and lime on the palate, but eminently refreshing. Nicely concentrated wine, but still light and
elegant on the appealing finish. 88. 2008 Erdener
Treppchen Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben: Subtle aromas of pineapple, redcurrant and
honeysuckle. Delicately rich and creamy
papaya fruit,?? the palate has more the dynamic of citrus and toasted
almonds.???? Elegant, nicely balanced
and satisfying, with pure slate on the finish. 90. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Trocken Devonschiefer (85), 2008
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Erdener Treppchen
Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (85),
2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (86), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese * (87). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Riesling
Halbtrocken. (Terry Theise)
Markus
Molitor, Bernkastel-Wehlen. I tasted only 31 wines from this
estate this year, down from 47 last year. Much of that drop, of course, has do with the lesser number of ausleses
and higher-predicate wines from a vintage that at most estates ended with a
pleasant spätlese or two. All of the
2008s here were impressive, with over half receiving at least a 90-point rating
and five appearing on my hit lists for the best wines of vintage, including a
pinot noir. Due to questions of
availability, I have described only a handful of the wines, but listed them all
under “also recommended” for your perusal. What is doubly surprising at this level of quality is that Markus
Molitor owns 100 acres of vineyards in more than 20 excellent sites and
produces almost 300,000 bottles a year. 2008
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Trocken ($??): Crisp aromas of pineapple,
lemon oil and clove. ALTHOUGH THE rich
palate shows impressive peach FRUIT CONCENTRATION???, the drive remains sleek
and FINELY CHISELLED?. Finishes with a
subtle toasted nuttiness. This riesling
still needs time; it’s hard to make a better dry riesling on the Mosel! 91. 2008 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese Feinherb ($??): Yeasty aromas of wild peach,
sweet herbs and nut oil. Pungent, almost
smoky apricot pit flavor shows riveting nerve and an uplifting minerality. A subtle wine with a seductively long finish
featuring a noe of toasted almond. A
great effort in the off-dry style. 91.
2008
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Feinherb ($??): Pale golden yellow with a
greenish tinge. Rich, smoky aromas of
yellow plum, quince and sweet herbs. Unctuous apricot fruit is complemented and lifted by a bright, salty
minerality. Juicy and generous yet quite
crisp on the persistent finish. This
unique wines is one of the finest off-dry rieslings of the vintage. 91(+?). 2008 Zeltinger
Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett ($??): Brisk aromas of cherry blossom, lemon zest and wild
herbs. Although almost overladen with
sweet peachy fruit, it snaps to attention with crisp salted apple and
distinctive slate. With its juicy,
mineral-driven finish, this is one of the great kabinetts of the vintage. 90. 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Kabinett ($??): Exuberant aromas of white peach, lemon candy
and pine nut. Glossy apricot fruit is
complicated by a note of toasted almond and sparked by slate. With its impressive depth and excellent
length, this is one of my top three kabinetts of the vintage. 90(+?). 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($??): Fruit-driven aromas of apricot
pit and quince, lifted by a floral element. The palate offers a rich, satiny texture, with fine supporting acids
framing the white peach flavor. Juicy
mineral salts and nut oils join the slate on the appealing finish. 91. 2008
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Discreet bouquet of apple
blossom, candied lemon and clover. Sleek
and refined, with the apricot pit flavor retaining a juicy, mouthwatering
freshness. Finishes strong and succulent, with complex notes of slate, tropical
fruits and toasted almonds. One of great ausleses of the vintage. 94(+?). 2007
Graacher Himmelreich Spätburgunder ($??): Deep,
brilliant ruby. Subtle aromas of smoked
plum, spicecake and licorice. Finely
balanced in spite of its rich concentration and superb depth, offering layers
of wild berry fruit and spices. The
exquisitely long, ripely tannic finish is spiked by a clove element. Who would ever have thought that a pinot noir
like this could be produced on the Mosel? 94. Also
recommended: 2008 Wehlener Klosterberg
Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett
Trocken (87), 2008 Saar Riesling Alte Reben Trocken (87), 2008 Graacher
Domprobst Riesling Kabinett Trocken (88), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling
Kabinett Trocken Cask 6 (90), 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese Trocken
(89), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90), 2008 Wehlener
Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling
Auslese Trocken (91), 2008 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb
(87), 2008 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (87), 2008 Wehlener
Klosterberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (90), 2008 Niederminninger Herrenberg
Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (90), 2008 Wehlener
Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (90), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese
Auction Wine (92), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (92), 2007 Brauneberger Klostergarten
Pinot Noir (89), 2007 Brauneberger
Klostergarten Pinot Noir (91), 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Pinot Noir (94). (Wein-Bauer, Inc., Franklin Park, IL)
Joh. Jos. Prüm, Wehlen. I must confess that if I were
only allowed to take one bottle of German riesling to that proverbial desert
island, it might well be a kabinett from Dr. Manfred Prüm. Although the 2008 vintage was more classical
in character than its predecessors, he still considers it BASICALLY a
“kabinett, AT MOST a spätlese year.” [logic??] But he nonetheless made a cornucopia of ausleses in his own inimitable
style. Still, the 2008 Wehlener
Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is one of the great wines of the vintage. 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling
Kabinett: Subtle floral aromas of
peach skin and acacia blossom. Bright,
slightly tart apple fruit shows a refreshing, persistent acidity. An invigorating, elegantly balanced wine with
persistent slate on an appealing finish. 90.
2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Kabinett: Succulent aromas of cherry,
apple blossom and sweet herbs. Firm
apricot pit fruit, but with a REFRESHING ACIDIC BOUNCE, frames the palate.
[something missing??] The elegant finish
features persistent slatey minerality. My candidate for the kabinett of the vintage. 92. 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese ($??): Apricot pit, lime zest and clove on the
nose. The delicate nectarine fruit and
creamy texture are held aloft by nutmeg and mineral salts. Finishes bright, lively and satisfying, with
a spicy character provided by the slate. 91. 2008 Wehlener
Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($??): Crisp aromas of
passion fruit, nut oils and cinnamon. Rich, sleek and invigorating, with the creamy tropical fruit flavors
nonetheless remaining light and ethereal. Well-balanced, elegant and impeccably long. 92. 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (auction wine): Fruit-driven aromas of white peach and apricot, lifted
by a floral element and a hint of spicy botrytis. The rich, creamy, sweet tropical fruits and
bracing minerality provide an excellent framework ON THE PALATE (remove: for the
complexity.???) An auslese in its depth,
concentration AND COMPLEXITY, this spätlese remains bright and vibrant on its
long, spicy finish. One of the stars of
the vintage. 93. 2008
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Lively aromas of peach pit, honeysuckle and candied lemon. Bright and spicy, but with a creamy, velvety
quality contributed by the sweet, plush papaya fruit. Herbal essences heighten the pleasing
finish. Not a show reserve (NOT TRYING
TO BE OVER THE TOP) ??, but a lovely auslese. 92. 2008 Graacher
Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction wine): Pale golden yellow. Heady aromas of strawberry and nut oils, with only a gentle hint of
smoky botrytis. A white peach fruit
essence and mineral salts animate the creamily rich yet delicate palate. More concentrated than the other ausleses at
this address and with a distinct MOSEL personality, ?? [explain??] this
impressive wine is one of the finest ausleses of the vintage. 94. Also recommended: 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Riesling
Kabinett (86), 2008 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (87), 2008
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese (90), 2008 Graacher Himmelreich
Riesling Auslese (91), 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule
(92), 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule Auction Wine
(92). (Various importers, including Valkenberg and Rudi
Wiest)
Max
Ferdinand Richter, Mülheim. Although 2008 is not quite as brilliant as
either 2007 or 2005, Dr. Dirk Richter again put his best foot forward this
year. I still tend to avoid the dry
rieslings here, but the kabinetts can be mouthwatering, with the Elisenberg
from the little-known village of Veldenz being my favorite in 2008. For spätlese and auslese, the
Juffer-Sonneruhr site brought the best results. 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($??): Strawberry and lemon oil on the nose. On the palate, a smoky minerality enlivens
creamy apricot fruit. Well-balanced and
appealing. 88. 2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($??): Quince, licorice and acacia blossom dominate the
bouquet. Beyond the creamy peach flavor
a tantalizing acidity provides clarity and purity on the satisfying
finish. 89. 2008
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Aromas of pear nectar, mint and
sassafras. The decidedly creamy yet
delicate palate is marked by apricot, brown spices and mineral salts. In spite of its alluring sweetness, this auslese
finishes with a lipsmacking freshness. 90. Also
recommended: 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett
Trocken (85), 2008 Mülheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2008
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling
Kabinett (86), 2008 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Kabinett (87). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Classic, 2008 Mülheimer
Sonnenlay Johannisberg Riesling Auslese Trocken, 2008 Graacher Domprobst
Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85). (Langdon-Shiverick, Los
Angeles, CA; Mike Shaw?? Scarsdale, NY)
Sankt Urbanshof, Leiwen. If anything, Nik Weiss has
done an even better job in 2008 than he did in 2007. Even the simple wines, which have sometimes
lacked character, were spot on this year. Given the total annual production of 250,000 bottles at this estate,
that is an important message for any consumer looking for a reliable
label. In particular, the off-dry
rieslings were classically balanced and a string of succulent spätleses
eminently drinkable. Like last year,
they are all in a more classical (HE HAD TENDED TO GO TOWARDS OPULENCE BUT IS
NOW MORE RESTRAINED) ?? style, this time dictated by the vintage. Further, his simple estate riesling at
86 points remains a steal. 2008 Saarfeilser Riesling Spätlese Feinherb ($??): Lively aromas of apricot, lemon oil and
mint. The palate is animated by bright
peach pit flavor and bracing acidity. A
crisp, clean, pleasingly off-dry riesling with attractive spiciness on the
persistent finish. 89. 2008 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling
Spätlese Feinherb ($??): Yellow
plum, licorice and brown spices on the nose. Fresh and concentrated, with creamy (JUICY BETTER THAN CREAMY) star
FRUIT ?? depth and vibrant mineral salts keeping the palate fresh. Still youthfully closed, but offers good
potential. 89. 2008 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling
Kabinett ($??): Peach pit, lime oil
and clove on the nose. Elegant passion
fruit is given a juicy quality by vibrant acidity. At once glossy and crisp, finishing with an
enticing spiciness, this is a lovely kabinett. 89. 2008 Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese #16 ($??): Apricot, quince and persimmon dominate the bouquet. The smoky, wet stone minerality keeps the
sweet, ripe peach flavor in check. Finishes
long and complex, with a hint of slate. 91. 2008 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Candied apricot, clove and a touch of smoky
botrytis on the nose. On the palate, a
creamy nectarine flavor is nicely accentuated by salty minerality. A rich and subtly complex wine with a finish
that's still somewhat closed. 91. 2008
Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese ($??): Rich
golden yellow. Striking aromas of white
peach, lemon oil and woodsmoke over a bed of honeyed botrytis. Candied glazed apricot laced with vanilla
animate the palate. Finishes crisp,
vibrant and clean, with a persistent spiciness. 92. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Wiltinger Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (87), 2008 Mehringer Riesling
Spätlese Feinherb (88), 2008 Riesling (85), 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling
Kabinett (87), 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Saarfeilser
Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Spätlese Auction
Wine (91), 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Eiswein (91). (H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY)
Willi Schaefer, Graach. Although the
2007s were about as good as anything I can ever remember tasting here, Willi
Schaefer needn’t hide his face in 2008. The vintage brought a wide range of light, vibrant rieslings IN HIS (a
category?? that works perfectly with his) OWN ethereal style. A sensuous kabinett and a thought-provoking
(SERIOUS) ?? spätlese, both from the Domprobst site, were two of the finest
wines of the vintage. 2008 Graacher Domprobast
Riesling Kabinett: Apple blossom, lemon oil and acacia blossom on the
nose. The palate shows a subtle
raspberry flavor, along with an herbal mineral edge. Nice slate on the crisp finish. 89. 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5: Effusive aroma of black cherries, passion
fruit and lemon oil. In the mouth, a
hint of nutmeg enlivens flavors of vanilla custard studded with tropical
fruits. Boasts a luscious texture, but
this excellent spätlese's pure, salty minerality gives it a long and dynamic
finish. 92. 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese: Pale golden yellow. Pear, peppermint and vanilla on the seductive nose. Glazed apricot and honey make for a luscious
texture, with bright acidity and insistent slate providing lift and cut. At once luxuriant and elegant, finishing with
excellent spicy length. 92. Also
recommended: 2008 Graacher Riesling
Feinherb (86), 2008 Riesling (87), 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett
(87), 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #6 Auction Wine (93), 2008
Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese Auction Wine (93). (Terry Theise)
Selbach-Oster,
Zeltingen. Although its dry wines are quite austere, this
estate’s 2008 line-up from kabinett to auslese is arguably better than its
2007s—and I have yet to taste one or two of the late-bottled spätleses that
Selbach-Oster has just released. In any
case, are
all crisp, elegant wines that are fun to drink without any loss of
seriousness. That is very important for
Johannes Selbach. As owner, winemaker
and export manager, he spends more time in foreign markets than most German
producers and understands what consumers really enjoy: not show reserves but a refreshing glass of
riesling that calls for a refill. Like
Ernie Loosen’s Dr. L, his fish label under the JH Selbach brand is a good
introduction to German wine. 2008
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett ($??): Passion fruit and lemon candy on the nose. On the palate, flavors of slate, pineapple
and lime are pure and refreshing. A
light, elegant and appealing kabinett. 88. 2008 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling
Spätlese ($??): Lovely floral, peach
and hazelnut aromas. The palate offers a delicate apricot flavor, but with a
bracing citrus character. Finishes nicely with slate, lemon oil and a hint of
clove. 89. 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese: Enticing aromas of pineapple and peach, plus
a hint of vanilla. The luscious papaya
fruit rides on an elegant framework of acids and slate. Delicate but nicely concentrated wine with
toasted hazelnut on a long, vibrant finish. Very
refreshing. 90. 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese : Discreet aromas of white peach, quince and
mint. Rich, juicy apricot fruit is in
delicate balance with understated acidity. Creamy lemon curd and salty minerality mingle on the long finish. 91. 2008 Zeltinger Schlossberg
Rothlay Riesling Spätlese Schmitt: Pale golden yellow. Rich bouquet of candied apricot, ginger and
nut oil. The rich, juicy pineapple fruit
and crisp slate give definition and nerve to the subtle, creamy texture. This beautifully balanced and very promising
wine features a long and seductive finish. 92. 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Eiswein: Pale golden yellow with a green tinge. Crisp bouquet
of mango, lemon candy and pine nuts. Glazed apricot and honey flavors are fine-grained and glyceral yet at
the same time refreshing, buoyant and very pure. Crisp slate accents dominate the long, bright
finish. 92(+?). Also recommended: 2008 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Trocken
(86), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr
Riesling Auslese (92). (Terry Theise)
Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch, Bernkastel-Kues. Sofia Thanisch-Spier and Olaf Kaufmann have taught this old estate to
dance again over the past decade, with the elegantly poised kabinett and supple
spätlese from the famous Doktor vineyard the apogee of their production. That said, I was highly impressed by the
simple estate riesling in 2008: lots of
wine for only $20. In fact, there was
nary a misstep in the current line-up. 2008 Bernkasteler Doktor
Riesling Kabinett: Fresh bouquet of pear and apple
blossom. Delicately sweet on the palate,
with an attractive interplay of apricot and luscious citricity. The appealing finish features lipsmacking
elegance. 88. 2008 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Spätlese: Bright aromas of fresh apple, star fruit and
nut oil. Supple and rich, but with a
distinct delicacy to its papaya fruit, this spätlese is kept alive by its brisk
acidity. The spicy finish features
clear, refreshing slate character. 90. Also
recommended: 2008 Riesling
Trocken (85), 2008 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008 Riesling (86), 2008
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Bernkasteler Badstube
Riesling Spätlese (87+?), 2008 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Auslese (89). (Numerous importers, including Valckenberg and Slocum
& Sons)
Vollenweider,
Traben-Trarbach. After picture-book
2007s that ran the gamut from a salty kabinett to a sumptuous TBA, Daniel
Vollenweider’s 2008 rieslings are lighter and more elegant but equally
enchanting. Everything from the off-dry
spätlese through the kabinett to the impressive subsite Reiler are just as they
should be. Isn’t it odd that a
journeyman?? [need a better word; this connotes a merely routine level of
competence] IMMIGRANT from Switzerland has done more to ensure that the steep,
old terraces above the Mosel in Wolf, Kröv and Traben-Trarbach are maintained
than any German born and raised there? 2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese Feinherb ($??): Savory aromas of apricot, blackberry and
smoke. Dense berry fruit is given shape
and verve by a finely polished minerality. Rich, elegant and spicy on the persistent, only slightly sweet
finish. 89. 2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett ($??): Crisp bouquet of white peach,
lime oil and sweet herbs. Bright kiwi
fruit is nicely balanced by lively acidity. Elegant and appealing. 89. 2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese ($??): Subtle aromas of lichee, lemon
oil and pine nuts. Luscious tropical
fruit flavors complicated by a smoky nuance that adds a piquant quality. In spite of the wine's depth, subtle acidity
brings spice and a feminine character to the finish. 90. 2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule ($??): Pale
golden yellow. Subtle bouquet of pineapple,
nut oil and lemon zest. The luscious yet
crisp papaya fruit is brightened by a refreshing mineral character. Deceptively light and wonderfully
drinkable. A charming riesling with a
rich sweet/salty finish. 91. 2007 (2008 not 2007 )?? Wolfer Goldgrube Reiler
Riesling Spätlese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Mesmerizing aromas of papaya, sweet herbs and
lime oil. A discreet yet intense cherry
fruit flavor rises from the palate accompanied by brilliant acidity. This vibrant, spicy wine boasts a riveting
finish. A most impressive spätlese. 93. Also recommended: 2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Kröver
Steffensberg Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Auslese
(91). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Feinherb. (Vineyard Research, Wellesley, MA; Ewald Moseler
Selections, Portland, OR)
Saar
According to Egon Müller, 2008 was a classical kabinett vintage without excessive ripeness. Few of the wines are the liquid botrytis gold
that many consumers hold in awe, but most are rieslings that many of us love to
drink, and that had been lacking in recent years like 2006, 2005 and 2003. However, as in 2007, there were also a bevy
of refreshing spätleses and, although scarce, a handful of elegant ausleses.
Flowering occurred early, resulting in a long
vegetative period for the grapes, which certainly contributed to the aromatic
complexity of the finest wines. From
then on, though, the weather was touch-and-go, with sun and rain alternating
throughout the fall. The harvest was
long for those seeking optimal ripeness and complexity, often lasting into
mid-November. EVEN THEN, only THOSE growers who sorted carefully?? [what does
this have to do with the length of the harvest??] in the vineyards and later in
the cellar made rieslings with abundant fruit and extract.
Although there is no question that Egon Müller
remains the man to beat on the Saar, the surprise of the vintage was van
Volxem, who produced the finest range of pure rieslings that I have ever tasted
at this estate. Quite different from
those of his neighbor and friend, and officially off-dry in style because they
have more than nine grams per liter of residual sugar, these wines actually
taste dry, which is why he chooses to write only riesling on their labels. In fact, they have only 10 to 15 grams of
r.s., but given their lively acidities, would not taste nearly so good with any
less.
Among those properties I have not portrayed in full, Claudia Loch from the Herrenberg estate
in Schoden is certainly one of the rising talents. Yields from her seven acres of organic
vineyards are small, but the wines are dense and full of character. Two-thirds of the production is dry or
dryish, with the 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Feinherb (88) taking my
highest mark in that style. However, she
also made a 2008 Schodener Herrenberg Riesling Auslese (89) and 2008 Schodener
Herrenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (92) that show her sweet tooth. And her 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling TBA
(95) was one of the finest wines of the vintage. With a total production of only 14,000
bottles in 2008, though, these wines never appear in any volume on the American
market.
The most interesting Saar wines from Sankt Urbans Hof generally come from
the Ockfener Bockstein and Saarfeilser sites, but as the estate’s cellars are
in Leiwen I have included them in the Mosel section. The same is true of Kesselstatt, who again
made a number of lovely rieslings from their choice vineyards in the
Scharzhofberg.
The old Bischöflich
Weingüter have also begun again to put a better foot forward, especially
from their sites on the Saar. My two favorites
among all of their wines this year were the 2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling Spätlese
(88) and 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese (89). Another of the large old foundations, Vereinigte Hospitien, also did well
with its 2008 Serriger Schloss Saarfelser Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese (88).
New on the block is Dr. Siemens, who bought the Bert Simon estate in 2006. Two thousand seven EIGHT?? was only his
second full vintage, but he has already shown a talent for the dry and off-dry
wines that he has made the core of his portfolio. I rated four of his wines with 87 points,
with my nod going to the 2008 Serriger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb.
In spite of the shortage of noble late harvest
rieslings, the Saar was again slightly more successful than the Ruwer in
2008—and there are more producers making excellent wines here. The problem for
the general consumer, though, beyond the challenge of vintage variation, is the
fact that production runs the gamut from the drier rieslings of Heinz Wagner
and Claudia Loch through the off-dry style of Lauer and Volxem to the opulent
sweetness of Müller and Zilliken. I
enjoy the kaleidoscope of flavors, but even collectors will probably find it
confusing.
Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, Saarburg. Hans-Joachim Zilliken remains true to his style, even
in vintages like 2008 that bring little of the noble late havest riesling for
which he is rightly famous. Although his
crisp, off-dry entry-level wines are often somewhat difficult to understand in
their youth, they generally age remarkably well, as anyone who has tasted them
five years after bottling will attest. That his American importer, though, concentrates on the kabinet and
spätlese from his prime Rausch site is a decision I more than understand. I drink them too! 2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett ($??): Bosc pear, cherry pit and lemon
peel on the nose. Alluring palate feel,
with spicy freshness and crisp, clear minerality. Finishes bright in spite of the residual
sugar. A good effort. 88. 2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese ($??): Pale yellow with a greenish tinge. Lively floral aroma lifts spiced apple, white
raisin and toasted pine nuts. Delicately
creamy papaya fruit offers a subtle texture and is nicely framed by zesty
acidity. Compact and spicy on the
finish. 91. 2008
Saarburger Rausch Riesling Eiswein ($??): Pale golden yellow. Peach
pit, guava and lemon oil on the nose. Luscious citrus fruits are given a refreshing quality by cool minerality
and bracing acidity. The long finish features
an ethereal quality and a spicy elegance. 94. Also
recommended: 2008 Saarburger
Rausch Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Riesling Feinherb Butterfly (85), 2008
Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (87), 2008 Riesling, 2008 Ockfener
Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese
#2 Auction Wine
(90). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken. (Rudi Wiest)
Von
Hövel, Oberemmel. The last two vintages here have been
impeccable. While 2007 brought more noble late harvest rieslings, the 2008s
shine with ripe fruit, salty minerality and fine balance, with dry and off-dry
bottlings more prominent. As I wrote
last year, these scores may not appear high, but the wines are a pleasure to
drink. 2008 Oberemmeler Hütte
Riesling Kabinett ($??): Apricot and candied lemon on the nose. Glossy but elegant, this kabinett tastes
almost off-dry in style. The clean
finish features lime and discreet slate. 87. 2008
Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett ($??): Lively aromas of white peach and spearmint. The crisp apricot pit flavor is kept taut by
refreshing acidity. A light and nicely
balanced kabinett with an appealing finish that makes it fun to drink. 88. 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese ($??): Subtle aromas of pear, sweet herbs and lemon
candy. The herbal apricot fruit is set
in a harmonius mineral structure. Juicy
and somewhat lush on the finish, with enough minerality to maintain a
refreshing lightness. 89. Also recommended: 2008 Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett
Trocken (85), 2008 Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2008
Riesling Balduin von Hövel (85), 2008 Oberemmler Hütte Riesling Spätlese
(87). (Rudi Wiest/Cellars International,
Carlsbad, CA)
Peter Lauer, Ayl. Although Peter Lauer’s
dryish-style rieslings have been excellent for years, they are only slowly
becoming more widely available in the States. Part of that is due to Florian Lauer, who after his enological studies
in Montpellier, is now Lauer’s fifth-generation winemaker. Although traditionally each wine here is
given the number of its individual cask, the estate has recently reintroduced
the unofficial parcel names within the Kupp vineyard site rather than use terms
like spätlese, which they seldom produce any longer, for its best dry and
off-dry riesling: Unterstenbersch, Stirn
and Kern. When they get it right, as they did again in 2008 with the Kern shown
below, few in Germany do it better. 2008
Ayler Kupp Unterstenbersch Riesling Halbtrocken ($??): Aromas of apricot
skin, persimmon and apple blossom. Bright, crisp peach stone flavor shows an almost salty minerality. The persistent finish shows a crisp,
refreshing spicy quality. 88. 2008 Ayler Kupp Stirn Riesling Feinherb ($??): Bright aromas of muskmelon, quince and lemon oil. Crisp apricot pit
fruit betrays barely a hint of spicy sweetness. Pleasingly long, this riesling
is all about balance. 88. 2008 Ayler Kupp Kern Riesling Feinherb ($??): Exuberant peach, clove and pine nut
aromas. The creamy papaya texture is
rich but spiked by a saline minerality that keeps the wine dancing over the
palate. With its subdued complexity and satisfying mineral finish, this
is one of the finest off-dry wines of the vintage. 91. Also recommended: 2008
Ayler Kupp Riesling Trocken #25 (85), 2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling Trocken #2 (86),
2008 Ayler Kupp Schonfels Riesling Trocken (88), 2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling
Halbrocken #1 (87), 2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling Feinherb #3 (87), 2008 Saafeilser
Riesling Feinherb (89). Other wines
tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken
#16. (Mosel Wine Merchants??) [I show these from last year: Importers include Douglas Polaner Selections,
Mt. Kisco, NY and The Country Vintner, Oilville, VA]??
Egon Müller, Scharzhof. Although Egon Müller describes
2008 as “only a kabinett vintage,” he was able to cull a stunning spätlese and
a stellar gold capsule auslese from his seven hectares in the Scharzhofberg
vineyard in late October and early November before snowstorms destroyed any
hope of harvesting an ice wine. In
total, he made only ten wines and 80,000 bottles, but several of those are
benchmarks for the vintage. 2008
Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett #6 ($??): Muskmelon, clove and nut oils on the nose. Zesty, almost herbal peach pit flavor
accented by delicate spice. With its
persistent finishing flavor of SMOKE AND slate??, this kabinett is pleasantly
drier than some of years past. 88. 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese #4 ($??): Subtle floral aromas with hints
of peach nectar, white raisin and lemon oil. The velvety, creamy tropical fruit flavors appears bright and elegant
thanks to the refreshing acidity. Juicy,
spicy, pure and delicate on the finish. 91. 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese #8 ($??): Pale golden yellow with a green tinge. Unctuous aromas of candied peach, acacia
blossom and cinnamon, plus a hint of spicy botrytis. The palate offers a rich, velvety sweetness,
with a texture and flavor of apricot preserves, an almost honeyed glaze, and
subtle mineral depth that underlines the slate. Dense, lively and impressively long on the aftertaste. 93. 2008 Scharzhofberger
Riesling Auslese #5 ($??): Pale golden yellow. Baked apple, quince and cinnamon on the nose. The creamy, rich tropical fruit flavor is
highlighted by spicy botrytis and an underlying acidity that insures a delicate
airiness. Offers hidden depth, with
elegant spiciness, impressive complexity, and a dazzling finish for a “simple”
aulese. 94. 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese Gold
Capsule #10 (auction wine): Rich
golden yellow. Intense aromas of dried
apricot, baked apple and nut oil wafts over the brown spice botrytis. Impressively unctuous tropical fruit flavors,
with the weight of botrytis borne by a fine minerality. The impressively long finish is deep and
bright, displaying complex spices. The
finest auslese of the vintage and one of the best of any kind produced in
Germany in 2008. 97. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Scharzhof #1 (85), 2008 Wiltinger Braune
Kupp Riesling Kabinett #2 (87), 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett #3 (88),
2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett #7 Auction Wine (89), 2008 Wiltinger
Braune Kupp Riesling Austlese Gold Capsule #9 (94). (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY)
Maximilian von Othegraven, Kanzem. Dr.
Heide Kegel is slowly breathing fresh life into this beautiful property at the
foot of the Altenberg vineyard in Kanzem, a site that rivals the Scharzhofberg
in historic importance, with 2008 being the most consistent effort since 2005. Even the simple dry estate riesling has
gained in stature, while the two cask-vinified Grosses Gewächs are excellent
for the vintage and the kabinetts and spätleses are spot on. 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett ($??): White nectarine, pine nuts and
lemon oil on the nose. Crisp peach stone
fruit plus a splash of minerality yield an elegant yet substantial palate
impression. Dryish in style, with a light,
appealing finish. 87. 2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Spätlese
Alte Reben ($??): Lively aromas of
green apple, cherry blossom and peppermint. The palate offers succulent apricot pit fruit with refreshing spice and
a glossy texture. Light and elegant
rather than overly dense, with a tantalizing?? finish. 90. 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese (auction wine): Pale golden yellow. Ripe aromas of dried apricot, sweet basil and
toasted almond. The subtly rich, creamy
texture is highlighted by peach and clove. The pure, dense brown spice finish displays fine length. 90. 2008
Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese ($??): Golden yellow with green highlights. Sweet
aromas of passion fruit, pineapple and sweet lime. The lush fruit is punctuated by a bright
spiciness that lightens and cleanses the palate. The long, sweet finish is not at all
cloying. Very pleasing, but not better
than the old-vine spatlese. 89. 2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Eiswein ($?? for 375 ml.): Pale golden yellow. Exalted?? floral aromas with
nuances of apricot pit, lemon zest and guava. Bracing pineapple fruit flavor shows a honeyed glaze and is enlivened by
bright minerals on the finish. Excellent balance and length here. 93. Also recommended: 2008
Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88),
2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Gewächs (88), 2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling
Kabinett (86), 2008 Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Kabinett (88), 2008 Kanzemer
Altenberg Riesling Spätlese (89). (Terry
Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY)
Schloss
Saarstein, Serrig. Although
Christian Ebert has become more consistent over the past decade, 2008 is far
better than were the two previous vintages. Clean and well-made, the kabinett, spätlese and auslese from his core
Schloss Saarstein vineyards (THE WHOLE PROPERTY IS CALLED SCHLOSS SAARSTEIN,
BUT NOT ALL VINEYARDS ARE OF EQUAL STATURE)?? all show the saline acidity that
provides riesling from the Saar with its pedigree. Even the dry
wines, which can often be rather tart here, were notably better than last
year. 2008 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Kabinett ($??): Honeydew melon
and lemon zest on the nose. Bright
apricot pit fruit with persistent spice and a salty minerality that
enlivens the almost off-dry?? [what is "almost off-dry?" MORE
FEINHERB. OFF DRY OR HALBTROCKEN IS LEGALLY AT MOST 18 GRAMS OF RESIDUAL SUGAR]
finish. 87. 2008 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Spätlese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Subtle aromas of pear, ripe cherry and lemon
oil. Crisp apple fruit and creamy
texture lead to an appealingly refreshing finish. 89. 2008 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling
Auslese ($??): Golden yellow. Rich aromas of pineapple, persimmon and white
pepper. The luscious tropical fruit
flavors shows good verve in spite of the wine’s honeyed sweetness. Densely packed, but with a clean and
refreshingly spicy finish. 91. Also recommended: 2008 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling
Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Kabinett
Feinherb (86), 2008 Saarstein Riesling (86). Other wines tasted: 2008
Saarstein Pinot Blanc, 2008 Saarstein Riesling Trocken, 2008 Serriger Schloss
Saarstein Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Saarstein Riesling Feinherb. (Valckenberg
International, Tulsa, OK)
Van Volxem, Wiltingen. Roman Niewodniczanski is hard to
miss in a crowd. Athletically built and
nearly seven feet tall, his long blond hair wags behind him in a pony tail as
he sails into the room. His wines are
equally hard to miss! Since he purchased
the old van Volxem estate some ten years ago, he has extended its holdings to
over 100 acres and put forgotten vineyard names back on the map. Some of his sites till sport 100-year-old
vines planted on their original root stock; others are carefully selected
genetic cuttings that he has chosen from old vineyard material to improve the
region’s genetic pool. Although
consumers often still associate the Saar with delicately sweet spätlese, his
full-bodied, off-dry style commands respect. And 2008 has taken quality here to a new level. As demand for dry riesling continues to
mount, this is a style many estates are now trying to emulate, but no one is
doing it better. In fact, given the
stunning quality of these wines, you have to ask why the VDP has limited
Grosses Gewächs to 9 grams per liter of residual sugar. Cartier would call these a “must.” 2008 Wiltinger Riesling Volz ($??): Rich aromas of yellow plum,
quince and sweet herbs. Brilliant
apricot FRUIT, SATIN texture?? and salty minerality provide this wine with real
lift. Juicy, generous and yet crisp on
the persistent finish. Uniquely
satisfying. 91. 2008 Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp
Riesling ($??): Apricot, white
pepper and sweet lime on the nose. Rich
peach skin fruit?? yet impressively bright and clear, with wet stone slate on
the palate. Nicely juxtaposes restrained
residual sugar, bracing minerality and clove on the finish. Like the Volz, this
is one of the ten best off-dry wines of the vintage. 92. 2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Alte Reben ($??): Enticing aromas of wild peach, sweet herbs and nut
oils. Pungent, almost smoky apricot pit
flavor shows riveting nerve and an uplifting mineral finish. The finish of this show-stopper is subtle and
seductively long, displaying an element of toasted almond. In a pure, classical style. 93.
2008 Wiltinger
Gottesfuss Riesling Alte Reben ($??): Pale golden yellow with a
green tinge. Vibrant aromas of white
peach, blackcurrant, honey and woodsmoke. Creamy nectarine flavor is at once dense, brisk and refreshing. Wonderfully balanced riesling with real depth
and pronounced spicy minerality on the rich, complex finish. This is my call for best off-dry wines?? of
the vintage. 93. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Schiefer (86), 2008 Riesling
Rotschiefer (86), 2008 Saar Riesling
(87), 2008
Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling (88), 2008
Riesling Alte Reben (88), 2008 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling (90), 2008
Wawerner Goldberg Riesling (90), 2008 Scharzhofberg Riesling (90). (Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR)
Heinz Wagner, Saarburg. The bracing acidity in Heinz Wagner’s dry rieslings
will be a shock for the uninitiated palate in 2008, which is why the finely
balanced spätleses, without being overly sweet, were my favorites in 2008. While not as voluptuous as these wines were
in 2007, this remains a style that I like to drink. 2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese ($??): Peach stone and lemon oil on the nose. Bright, crisply elegant kiwi fruit texture on
the palate. Appealing and fun to drink. 88. 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese ($??): Vibrant
aroma of apple blossom, lemon zest and sweet herbs. The delicate pineapple fruit flavor is
refined, salty and light. Well-balanced and attractive finish. 88. Also recommended: 2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett
Trocken (85), 2008 Saarburger Kupp Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese
Feinherb (86), 2008 Ockfener Bockstein
Riesling Kabinett (86). Other wines
tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008
Riesling Feinherb. (Winebow, Inc., New
York, NY)
Ruwer
It would perhaps be unfair to say that the Ruwer’s
star is waning, but nature has not been entirely cooperative with this tiny
tributary of the Mosel in recent years. And some of the producers there have perhaps not kept up with the pace
of quality improvements taking place elsewhere.
That said, the major story here this year is
certainly the renaissance of von Schubert in Grünhaus. Long a beacon of quality for the greater
Mosel, this estate had been less convincing since the turn of the millenium. Although the last couple of vintages have
hinted at a rebound, it was only in 2008 that all of the pieces in the puzzle
truly fell into place. Christoph Tyrell
at Karthäuserhof, on the other hand, was again less successful, leaving Herbert
Weiss from Beulwitz as the most consistent producer from the Ruwer over the
past decade. His 2008s are reminiscent
of the 2004s: light, elegant and eminently drinkable.
Although I have been critical of the wines of Peter
Geiben from Karlsmühle (Terry
Theise) over the past few vintages, 2008 marks a clear change for the better
here, with a well-balanced Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett (87) and a
delicate spätlese (89) from the same site highlighting a collection that is
still very consumer-friendly in its pricing. With another vintage like this, Karlsmühle will again merit full
coverage in these pages as it has in the past.
Kesselstatt, which now has its headquarters and
winery at Marienlay on the Ruwer, was again quite strong across the board, and
made one of the region’s best dry rieslings (89) at their Nies’chen site in
Kasel. However, as they have choice
parcels in the finest vineyards of the Mosel and Saar as well, I include them
under the Mosel heading.
Although the Ruwer is now in fact part of a larger
region known only as the Mosel, and no longer Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, the two
tributaries are allowed to mention their individual provenance—and most of the
producers here are keen to highlight that point of difference. Of the two, the Ruwer is the smaller, with a
style somewhere between the taut, mineral elegance of the Saar and the more
supple fruit of the middle stretches of the Mosel.
In Germany, all the producers here have avid
followings for dry riesling, but many American consumers will still rightly ask
if such wines make any sense. Aren’t the
delicate kabinetts and elegant spätleses a better reflection of the
region? That may be true, but many of
them have become too sweet. I think the
truth lies somewhere in between. And
there does seem to be renewed interest in the off-dry style that the Germans
call Feinherb, with von Schubert’s Abtsberg Superior (92) being an example to
follow. Like van Volxems’s rieslings
from the Saar, these wines taste drier than chardonnay with similar residual
sugar because of their lower alcohol levels and crisp, refreshing acidity.
Erben von Beulewitz, Mertesdorf. Herbert Weiss has been one of
the most consistent performers on the Ruwer over the past decade. Pure and dense, his Alte Reben??—from
ungrafted, century-old vines—are (HE WRITES ALTE REBEN WHERE OTHERS MIGHT SAY
GOLD CAPSULE)?? often references for the vintage in this region. That was again the case in 2008. Interesingly, he made no dry Grosses Gewächs
this year, but instead an off-dry “Auf den Mauern,” which perhaps better
captures the spirit of the vintage. 2008
Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Feinherb Auf den Mauern ($??): Yellow plum, lemon oil and hyacinth on the nose. Taut apricot pit fruit and a cisp minerality
animate the palate. The spicy finish
displays pleasing depth and balance. 89. 2008 Kaseler
Nies’chen Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben ($??): Pale yellow. Subtle aromas of nectarine, passion fruit and lemon oil. The palate offers a nice balance of dense
apricot pit fruit and subtle spiciness. Shows almost imperceptible weight and depth, but this is still closed. 89. 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Auslese
Alte Reben (auction wine): Pale
golden yellow. Rich aromas of
yellow plum, musk and sweet herbs. Delivers good depth of rich tropical fruit, with a velvety texture and
in a rather elegant style. Finishes with
salty minerality and good persistence. 91. Also recommended: 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85),
2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Spätlese Trocken “S“ (87),
2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen
Riesling Kabinett
(87), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Auslese (90), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen
Riesling Eiswein (91). Other wines
tasted: 2008 Weisser Burgunder
Trocken Selection. (Dee
Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA)
Karthäuserhof,
Eitelsbach. As in 2007, the 2008s from the
affable Christoph Tyrell show juicy fruit and refreshing elegance, but with the
exception of the Eiswein there are few bottlings that stand out and none that
can compare with those from the finest estates on the Mosel. Perhaps I am being overcritical, but my
expectations are high when I see this unique label. 2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett ($??): Apricot pit and apple blossom on the nose. Light but with a crisp peachy fruit held aloft
by vibrant acidity. Has grip and pleasant length in an almost off-dry
style. 87. 2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg
Riesling Spätlese ($??): Pale
yellow. Delicate aromas of white peach,
persimmon and lemon oil. The palate
offers a subtle play of ripe apricot fruit and subdued minerality, with just
enough fresh acidity to give it shape. Nicely balanced on the satisfying finish. 88. 2008 Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Ripe aromas of yellow plum, cherry and acacia blossom. Supple, fresh and enticing, with subdued
candied pineapple fruit complemented by a touch of honey. Perhaps not stunning, but a very nice wine to
quaff on a summer afternoon on the patio. 89. Also recommended: 2008
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86+?), 2008
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (85) and 2008
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese #48 Auction Wine (89), 2008
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Eiswein #51 (93). Other wines tasted: 2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling
Trocken, 2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Feinherb, 2008 Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb. (Rudi Wiest)
Von
Schubert, Grünhaus. Since the 2004 vintage, Dr. Carl von
Schubert has been slowly and steadily crafting the renaissance of this
beautiful estate, which was once not only the finest on the Ruwer but also one
of the stars of the entire Mosel. With the 2008
vintage, his new winemaker Stefan Kraml has finally put his imprint on the
wines, which are pure, intensely delicate and finely nuanced—from the dry
old-vine riesling to the superb eiswein. Hats off! 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser
Herrenberg Riesling Trocken Alte Reben ($??): Papaya,
lemon oil and sweet herbs on the nose. Crisp and clean, with salty acidity, this old-vine riesling has the
weight of an auslese. One the finer dry
wines from the Mosel in 2008. 89. 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling
Superior ($??): Unctuous aromas of
guava, green apple and bacon fat. Offers
a succulent melon texture accented by a salty minerality. Finishes rich, pure and tantalizingly
dry. In the off-dry style, one of the
wines of the vintage. 92. 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett ($??): Bright aromas of white nectarine, green apple
and acacia blossom. Savory apricot pit
and a touch of lemon oil keep the palate refreshing. A finely balanced kabinett with weight and
depth—and fun to drink! 89. 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling
Spätlese ($??): Pale yellow. White peach, hyacinth and a touch of clove on the
nose. Subtly sweet papaya fruit and a
hint of lime on the palate melt in a creamy note??? that is held in check by
the restrained minerality. A seductive
wine with a penetrating, spicy finish. 90. 2008
Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale
golden yellow. Succulent aromas of muskmelon,
candied pineapple and woodsmoke. Creamy
on the palate, with a glossy texture of peach preserves. Nicely balanced, animated and decidedly
satisfying auslese with a spicy aftertaste. 91. 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg
Riesling Eiswein ($???): Pale golden
yellow. Rivetting aromas of gooseberry,
lemon zest and pine cone. Dense pit
fruit flavors are intensified by a driving acidic definition teeming with
flowers and juicy citrus. Wild, fun and
extremely long, this is one of the great wines of the vintage. 95. Also recommended: 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling
Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Trocken Alte
Reben (87), 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Feinherb Superior (89),
2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett #14 (88), 2008 Maximin
Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese #15 (90!!). Other wines tasted: 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling
Trocken. (Valkenberg International, Tulsa, OK)
Nahe
I tasted the wines of a record
61 producers from the Nahe this year, a tribute to the growing reputation of
this region, which was little more than an unnamed tributary of the larger
Rhine Valley appellation until wine legislation set it apart in 1971. Since then, the Nahe has slowly established
its profile as a positive blend of the aristocratic Rheingau and elegant Mosel
styles, sometimes taking more of one or more of the other, depending on the
vineyard site and vintage character.
While more consistent than 2006,
vintage 2008 again brought forth a mixed lot of wines. This time, though, it was not rot that caused
the damage, but an early harvest at those estates that were not prepared to
take risks. After a late flowering, hail
in the summer, and a cool, humid September, many producers began to crush
before their grapes reached full maturity. The result was taut, green wines with marked, sometimes even bitter
acidity.
Those producers who waited made
much better wines, with crisp, dry rieslings, refreshing kabinetts and delicate
spätleses the hightlights of the year. On the whole, though, it was only slightly better than a succulent
kabinett vintage in the Nahe. Even more
so than in 2007, the ausleses were only marginally better, if at all, than the
spätleses, and the volumes were miniscule. Even less noble late-harvest wine was produced, with some estates making
none at all.
As in the past two vintages, five estates dominated
quality here, with Tim Fröhlich and Werner Schönleber leading the pack,
followed by Helmut Dönnhoff, Armin Diel and Dr. Peter Crusius, giving the Nahe
a slate of excellent estates unmatched in Germany for a region of this
size. Beyond those five, I also cover
Kruger-Rumpf and, for the first time—but as predicted last year—Jakob
Schneider, whose quality continues to rise.
Beyond those seven, however, there are a number of others
who merit mention. Götz Blessing from
the Göttelmann estate in
Münster-Sarmsheim, one of the silent stars of the region, again turned in an
excellent showing, with his 2008 Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Grosses
Gewächs (88) and Spätlese (89) from the same vineyard being my two
favorites. The
2008 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spätlese (88) from Harald Hexamer (Terry Theise Selections) in
Meddersheim was also well crafted. Although
his dry rieslings continue to improve, in particular the new “XXL,” they still
do not match his auslese (89), beerenauslese (90) or eiswein (92).
Sebastian
Schäfer (Willette Wines, New York, NY), whose estate has been given
full coverage in recent years, had a rather unremarkable vintage. Martin Korrell from the Johanneshof estate in Kreuznach fared better, with his 2008
Schlossböckelheimer Königfels Riesling Trocken Gold Capsule (88) being my
favorite. The best wine from Bürgermeister Willi Schweinhardt in Langelonsheim was also
dry, the 2008 Langenlonsheimer Rothenberg Riesling Terrasse Trocken (88), as
was that of his neighbor Tesch,
whose St. Remigiusberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88) topped the current
collection.
Up and coming are also Bamberger in Meddersheim, Hanmühle in Mannweiler and the old Staatsdomaene?? [sp?? STAATSDOMÄNE. AE
or Ä are same.] in Niederhausen, which - NOW CALLED GUTSVERWALTUNG
NIEDERHAUSEN-SCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIM - turned in one of its finest performances in
years. THE NEW MANAGEMENT UNDER KARSTEN PETER, THE BROTHER-IN-LAW OF TIM
FRÖHLICH, SHOULD ENSURE THE RENAISSANCE OF THIS HISTORIC PROPERTY.
Dr. Crusius, Traisen. Long one of the most reliable
producers on the Nahe, this estate has moved to center stage since the 2006
vintage. After a stellar perfomance in
2007, which Dr. Peter Crusius describes as one of the best years he has ever
had, 2008 was perhaps a touch less consistent, but the finest wines were no
less impressive than their predecessors and the dry rieslings, due to their
precision and elegance, are in fact better. Again, the somewhat old-fashioned style here, paired with a balsamic
mineral depth, sets these wines apart from their peers, and the lively acidity
in the 2008 vintage provided the Gold Capsule Riesling Spätlese from the Bastei
with the nerve that it lacked in 2007. 2008 Niederhäuser
Felsensteyer Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??): Rich aromas of apricot pit, pine nuts and lemon
oil. Succulent white peach fruit is
finely paired with an elegant acid spine. Offers a glossy texture and nice weight, and finishes with noteworthy
depth and spice character. 91. 2008 Norsheimer Kirscheck Riesling
Spatlese Halbtrocken XVII ($??): Minty aromas of peach pit and clove. The juicy palate offers attractive passion fruit perked up by lively acidity. Herbal but nicely animated finish. 88. 2008 Traiser Bastei Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule ($??): Pale golden yellow with a greenish tinge. Smoky aromas of pineapple, persimmon and
sweet herbs. The palate offers a
delicate interplay of citrus fruit, with a salty minerality giving it a
refreshing quality. More about density
than sheer elegance on the nonetheless subtle finish. 91. 2008 Schlossböckelheimer
Felsenberg Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Subdued aromas of passion fruit, quince and
vanilla, with a hint of botrytis. Full-bodied maracuja?? fruit and vibrant acidity FRAME THE PALATE (cut:
provide make for a complex framework)??. Finishes COMPLEX, velvety and spicy. 90. 2008 Traiser
Rothenfels Riesling Eiswein “HC” (auction wine): Intense golden yellow color. Crisp
aromas of guava, acacia honey and lime blend nicely with a touch of brown spice
botrytis. Dense passion fruit and mango
flavors stain the palate. At once
unctuous and juicy on the persistent finish. 92. Also recommended: 2008 Traiser Weisser Burgunder Trocken “EC” (85), 2008
Traiser Weisser Burgunder & Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Traiser Bastei
Riesling Trocken (88), 2008 Riesling Trocken Top of the Rock (89), 2008
Norsheimer Kirscheck Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling
Kabinett (86), 2008 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Eiswein (90), 2008 Traiser
Rotenfels Riesling Eiswein #9 (91), 2007 Traiser Pinot Noir (85). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling “XX.” (Chambers
& Chambers, San Francisco, CA; Crown,?? Florida)
Schlossgut Diel, Burg Layen. Although Armin Diel’s decision
to step down as the co-author of our annual guide was the talk of the summer
(I’LL EXPLAIN BY TELEPHONE)?? in Germany, the wines produced here since his
daughter Caroline returned to the estate after studying in Geisenheim merit
even greater consideration. As I wrote
last year, both Diels were among the first to say that the hype built around
the 2007 vintage may have been overstated—and both admire the ethereal
lightness of the 2008s. This estate has
also begun to shine with bubbly wine: their 2004 Cuvée Mo Sekt (92) was my favorite sparkling wine in this
year’s tastings and the Goldloch Riesling Sekt (90) also finished in the top
five in that category. This versatility
is what sets Diel apart from other estates on the Nahe. In fact, very few others anywhere in Germany
excel in what Armin Diel refers to as the winemaking pentathlon: dry, off-dry and sweet rieslings, white
Burgundian varieties, pinot noir, and now sparkling wine. This was a strong effort?? for the DIFFICULT
2008 vintage and all the wines are eminently drinkable. 2008 Eierfels
Riesling Trocken ($??): Bosc pear and acacia blossom on the
nose. Crunchy peach flavor combines in a
subtle way with an element of saltiness. A vibrant and refined dry riesling: this second wine (IT IS A BLEND OF WHAT DOES NOT MAKE THE CUT FOR
GROSSES GEWÄCHS FROM HIS TOP THREE SITES) ?? is better than many Grosses
Gewächs. 89. 2008 Dorsheimer Goldloch
Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Subtle aromas of white peach, mint and pine
nuts. A crisp pear flavor paired with
subtle saltiness gives the palate a distinctly vibrant quality. A pure, clean wine that finishes with a
delicate lingering spicy character. 91. 2008 Dorsheimer
Burgberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Rich aromas of tropical fruit, persimmon and
lemon oil. Intense, full-bodied papaya
fruit flavor is highlighted by a flinty minerality. Rich and concentrated on the finish. A bit closed today, but has excellent
potential. 92. 2008 Dorsheimer
Pittermännchen Riesling Kabinett: ($??): Apricot pit and sweet spices on the nose and palate. Refreshing acidity makes this kabinett appear
light and elegant in spite of its subtle richness. A perfect wine for a Sunday afternoon. 89. 2008 Dorsheimer Pittemännchen Riesling Spätlese ($??): Resplendent aromas of papaya, cling peach and
oyster shell. Dense but juicy, with
finely spiced acidity refreshing the palate. A rich, well-balanced wine in an invigorating style. 91. 2008 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Bright aromas of grapefruit,
honeysuckle and sweet spices. Luscious,
velvety tropical fruit flavors display a delicate sweetness. Finishes long, lively and elegant, with
terrific clarity and spiciness. 92(+?). Also recommended: 2008 Pinot Blanc (87), 2008 Pinot Gris (88),
2008 Victor (90), 2008 Nahestein Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Dorsheim Riesling
Trocken (87), 2008 Burg Layer Schlossberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs
(89), 2008 Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (91),
2008 Burg Layer Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2008 Dorsheimer Goldloch
Riesling Kabinett (87), 2008 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Spätlese (91), 2008
Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (92), 2008 Riesling
Eiswein (92), 2008 Scheurebe Spätlese (87), 2008 Rosé de Diel (85), 2008 Noir
de Diel (85), 2007 Pinot Noir Caroline (90). Other wines tasted: 2008 Diel de
Diel. (Terry Theise)
Hermann Dönnhoff, Oberhausen. Following stellar performances
in both of the previous vintages, 2008 was an understated year for Helmut
Dönnhoff, in a style that harkens back to his classical heritage. The wines are all light, perfectly balanced
and wonderfully drinkable, but, like the reserved gentleman himself, none of
them are show-stoppers. Perhaps that is
best so in 2008, for this is a refrained (RESTRAINED)?? spätlese vintage in
which each of the vineyards expresses its distinct character in its own sublime
way, with the Hermannshöhle being my favorite among the four that I
tasted. That said, as I often write,
when Dönnhoff is on the label, neither the predicate nor the site is important.
The wine is going to be good. 2008 Niederhäuser
Hermannshöhle Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Savory aromas of dried apricot and blackberry, with a
smoky, herbal character adding nuance. Dense peach fruit with a finely polished minerality animate the
palate. Rich, elegant and spicy on the persistent
finish. 90. 2008 Niederhäuser Dellchen Riesling Trocken Grosses
Gewächs ($??): Seductive aromas of cling peach, smoked meat
and lemon. Luscious guava fruit and salty minerality make for a layered
palate. The long, delicate finish shows
noteworthy density. 91. 2008 Norheimer Kircheck Riesling Spätlese ($??): Pale golden yellow with a hint of green. Subtle honeysuckle aromas blend with hyacinth and
lime. Pure, polished peachy fruit with a
very refined minerality drift dreamily across the palate. Finishes delicate and quite long. 90. 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese ($??): Pale
golden yellow. Floral aromas lift apricot and
quince on the nose. The complex tropical
fruit flavors are accented by a hint of licorice and a shot of slate. The subtle balance of sweetness and acidity
belies this wine’s richness. Offers nice
length and potential. 90(+?). 2008 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese ($??): Golden yellow. Tantalizing aromas of papaya, cherry,
sweet herbs and tobacco. Discreet but
intense cherry fruit rises from the mid-palate, animated by brilliant acidity.
Lusciously spicy wine with long, deep finish. I may be underrating this in the early going. 92(+?). Also
recommended: 2008 Pinot Blanc (85), 2008 Riesling Trocken
(85), 2008 Riesling Trocken Tonschiefer
(87), 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Trocken (89), 2008
Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling
Spatlese (89). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling. (Terry Theise)
Emrich-Schönleber, Monzingen. There is no question that
Werner Schönleber has been one of the most consistent producers of first-class
rieslings in Germany for at least the past five vintages. And from dry riesling to the invigorating
spätleses his 2008s are perhaps even better than his 2007s, with the Halenberg
Grosses Gewächs and Frühlingsplätzchen Spätlese ranking among the finest of
their respective categories in the vintage. Although he posseses only two vineyard sites in Monzinger on the western
end of the upper Nahe, his ability to make the character of each shine through
in every wine is exemplary. While the
red slate of the Frühlingsplätzchen tends to bring forth more feminine rieslings,
the wines from the blue slate of the Halenberg vineyard are more masculine and
robust, as exemplified by the Halenberg “R”, one of the best off-dry rieslings
of the vintage in Germany. This is a
style that I believe consumers would find extremely food-friendly, but with
only a single letter on the label describing the bottle’s contents it will
certainly remain a hand sell. Although
the noble late-harvest wines were not among the stars of the vintage, a
stunning eiswein crowns the current line-up here. 2008 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Trocken
Grosses Gewächs ($??): Delicate cherry, lemon
oil and salted almonds on the nose. Subtle apricot flavor with good spicy weight and bright minerality on
the palate. An elegant saltiness lingers
on the finish. 91.
2008 Monzinger
Halenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Spiced pear, sweet herbs and nut oils
dominate the nose. Dense, silky tropical
fruit flavors are elegantly balanced by salty minerality on the palate. Crisp, pure and savory, finishing
sophisticated and very long. One of the
finest dry rieslings of the vintage. 95. 2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling “R” ($??): Fine bouquet of peach pit,
pineapple and mint. The rather velvety
palate offers a delicate balance of sweet fruit and lively acidity. Juicy and animated on the finish. Off-dry riesling does not get much better
than this. 91. 2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese ($??): White peach, wild herbs and lemon
zest on the nose. Creamy papaya fruit
washes over the tongue, supported by an intense minerality that refreshes the
palate. Finishes crisp, clean and
pleasingly long. 91. 2008 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling
Spätlese ($??): Intense aroma of
pineapple, magnolia and lemon oil. A
delicate interplay of ripe citrus fruits and salty minerality gives this wine a
distinguished tone. Refined, expressive
and quite elegant on the finish. A
stunning spätlese for the vintage. 94. 2008 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Eiswein
Gold Capsule (auction wine): Pale golden yellow. Vibrant aromas of apricot pit, mint and
oyster shell. The poised passion fruit
extract?? is juxtaposed by a bright, vivacious acidity. A very pure wine of enormous depth, and yet
refined and finely spiced on the palate-staining aftertaste. One of the great wines of the vintage. 97. Also recommended: 2008 Weisser Burgunder Trocken (85), 2008
Grauer Burgunder “S” (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Riesling Trocken
Mineral (87), 2008 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Trocken (88), 2008 Monzinger
Halenberg Riesling Trocken (90), 2008 Riesling Trocken A.de. (92), 2008
Riesling Lenz (87), 2008 Monzinger Riesling Kabinett (87), 2008 Monzinger
Halenberg Riesling Auslese (91), 2008
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Eiswein (93). (Sussex Wine
Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA)
Kruger-Rumpf, Münster-Sarmsheim. Although Stefan Rumpf and his
son Johannes have long been extremely reliable, I have often been critical of
this estate, not because the wines were not good, but because I thought the
family could be doing better. They
surprise in difficult vintages, but seldom shine in great ones. That said, 2008 appears to mark a turn for
the better. Seldom has the whole
collection been so consistent. The dry
rieslings are dense but surprisingly animated, the two spätleses deliciously
crisp. and the Pinot Noir “R” one of the best this estate has ever made. 2008 Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Trocken Grosses
Gewächs ($??): Citrus fruits, nut oil and
hyacinth on the nose. The tight
apricotty palate opens slowly to show a spicy, almost razor-sharp acidity. Austere, but still dense and convincing. 90. 2008 Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Spätlese ($??): Rich bouquet of pear, cinnamon and sweet
herbs. A syrupy nectarine flavor is kept
in balance by low-keyed minerality. More
full-bodied than elegant on the finish. 89. Also recommended: 2008
Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Münsterer Pittersberg
Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Grosses Gewächs
(89), 2008 Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Münsterer Dautenpflänzer
Riesling Spätlese (88), 2008 Münsterer
Pittersberg Riesling Auselse (88), 2007 Pinot Noir “R” (88). Other wines tasted: 2008
Grauburgunder Trocken “S”, 2008 Münsterer Riesling Trocken “S”. (Terry Theise)
Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenau. Tim Fröhlich has been one of
the rising talents in Germany for almost a decade now, but seldom has his star
shown as brightly as it did in 2008. Although there were comparatively few late-harvest rieslings to tilt the
scorecard in his favor, I nonetheless marked 13 of the 22 wines I tasted here
with 90 points or higher, and six of them ranked among the top ten in Germany
(IN VARIOUS CATEGORIES IN MY GUIDE) ?? in their respective categories. While Dr. Bürklin-Wolf was a tough act to
beat for its dry rieslings, this was certainly the best overall collection of
the vintage and I named Tim Fröhlich winemaker of the year in my German
guide. Interestingly, the spontaneous fermentations
cultivated here, which often leave tasters perplexed, were extremely pure in
their expression this year. If you want
to know what great German riesling can taste like, buy some of these
2008s. 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck
Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Blackcurrant, lemon zest and a
floral twist on the nose. Full and dense
on the palate, yet at the same time juicy and invigorating. A long, concentrated finish highlights the
depth and minerality of this wine. 92. 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube
Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Exuberant bouquet of star fruit, honeysuckle and acacia blossom. Dense in texture, with apricot fruit nicely
juxtaposed with slate-driven minerality. The finish displays excellent depth and spicy minerality. 92. 2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Flamboyantly rich aromas of nectarine, honeysuckle and
anise seed. Downright chewy in texture,
with APRICOT ?? fruit and wet stone minerality nicely interwoven. With its superb purity, depth and very
complex finish, this dry riesling is just beginning to show its potential. 93+. 2008 Bockenauer Riesling Kabinett ($??): Melon, pineapple and lemon oil on the
nose. The velvety-sweet fruit and pure
mineral salts unfold to offer a sensuous tactile quality. Well-balanced and elegant, this kabinett
punches far above its weight. 91. 2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese ($??): Sumptuous aromas of melon,
pineapple and wild herbs. Luscious
exotic fruit flavors are complicated by pure mineral salts. Offers a honeyed richness and finishes juicy
and very long. 93. 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling
Spätlese ($??): Pure bouquet of
honeydew melon, magnolia and sweet lime. The velvety sweet fruit and salty
acidity give this wine an exotic kick. Pure and impeccably balanced, with a lively, elegant finish. Spätlese is seldom better in its youth than
this beauty. 94. 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling
Spätlese Goldkapsel ($??): Pale
golden yellow with a greenish hue. Unctuous aromas of apricot and sassafras, lifted by an exotic spice
nuance. Generous peach syrup flavor and
massive extract saturate the palate, masking the wine’s subtle underlying
acidity. Perhaps more rich than elegant,
but still the finest spätlese of the vintage! ?? 95. 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Subtle bouquet combines mango, acacia honey and lemon
zest. The palate is dominated by velvety
tropical fruits but doesn’t not come off as heavy thanks to understated
acidity. Hints of sweet nectar and spice animate the finish. 93. 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck
Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction wine): Rich golden
yellow. Candied pineapple, white peach
and lemon oil brighten the botrytized nose. On the palate, the flavor of sweet tropical nectars remains elegant
thanks to the balancing effect of salty minerality. Extremely long and spicy on
the finish, with invigorating sweetness. 94. 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Eiswein Gold Capsule (auction wine): Rich gold. Intriguing aromas of dried apricot,
persimmon and clove hide a note of botrytis. Succulent quince and acacia honey flavors are lifted out of the velvety
texture by the blue slate soils that accentuate the wine’s mineral acidity. This unctuous, extremely dense wine finishes
long and brilliant. One of the finest
wines of the vintage. 97. Also recommended: 2008 Bockenauer Grauer Burgunder Trocken “S”
(85), 2008 Bockenauer Weisser Burgunder Trocken “S” (86), 2008 Bockenauer
Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Trocken
(88), 2008 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Trocken (88), 2008 Bockenauer
Felseneck Riesling Trocken (89), 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling
Trocken Grosses Gewächs (91), 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Halbtrocken
(87), 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Beerenauslese Gold Capsule (93), 2008
Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Eiswein (93). Other wines tasted: 2008
Riesling Trocken “SF”, 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Riesling Trocken. (Rudi Wiest)
Jakob Schneider, Niederhausen. With excellent sites on the
middle stretches of the Nahe, but not always living up to its full potential,
the Schneider estate in Niederhausen has only just begun to fire on all
cylinders since Jakob Schneider Jr. returned full-time after finishing his studies
in Geisenheim in 2007. While his father
still manages the vineyard, son Jakob has taken over the cellar and has now
turned out two consecutive vintages that throw fresh light on the legendary
Hermannshöhle vineyard. Not only that, these rieslings are still fairly
priced. 2008 Niederhäuser
Hermannshöhle Riesling Trocken Magnus ($??): Refreshing aroma of white peach and lemon balm. The vibrant palate nicely balances crisp ??
fruit and lively acidity. Unpretentious
but well-made riesling with a refreshing finish. 89. 2008 Niederhäuser Klam Riesling Spätlese ($??): Tropical fruits
and lemon oil on the nose. Light and
elegant, with an almost velvety?? texture to the ?? fruit and nicely integrated
acidity. Lightly nutty nuance. An unassuming wine that’s more refined on the
palate than is apparent at first glance. 88. 2008 Niederhäuser
Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese Edith Elisabeth ($??): Tropical fruits,
honeysuckle and lemon oil on the nose. In a rather feminine style, showing juicy guava fruit and a spicy
texture. The elegant finish displays a
salty acidity. 89. 2007 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling
Beerenauslese ($??): Rich golden yellow. Candied aromas of cling peach,
papaya and sweet herbs over a bed of honeyed botrytis. The succulently sweet tropical fruit mask the
wine’s underlying spicy minerality. Rich, dense and concentrated, with a sumptuously warm finish. 92. Also recommended: 2008
Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2008 Niederhäuser
Felsensteyr Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Niederhäuser Klamm Riesling Kabinett
(86), 2008 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese Junior (89), 2008
Norheimer Kircheck Riesling Eiswein (90), 2008 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle
Riesling Eiswein (91). Other wines
tasted: 2008 Riesling Melaphyr
Trocken. (Terry Theise)
Rheingau
After providing almost picture-book conditions in
2007, Mother Nature was less generous to the producers in the Rheingau this
year. A cool, moist autumn slowed the
ripening process so much that the grapes only reached full ripeness, if at all,
very late in the growing season. Even
then, acidity levels remained comparatively high and must weights were at best
moderate. As elsewhere, those estates
that lost patience and harvested too early had to deal with unripe, often
bitter acidities. Those who waited, however, were able to make rieslings with a
compact,?? but refreshing lightness not seen in the past two vintages.
Moreover, alcohol levels were lower than in 2007, which makes the dry Erstes
Gewächs bottlings much more appealing.
Under such conditions, the heavier clay soils in the
middle stretches of the Rheingau suffered the most. Most producers there found it difficult to
make wines that can compete with their predecessors from 2007. As occurs so often, though, the steeper,
weathered slate slopes in Rüdesheim, which were both warmer and better drained,
fared consistently better, as did producers in higher villages such as Kiedrich
or those on the eastern end of the Rheingau in Hochheim. Some of their 2008s, on the other hand, were
better than in 2007.
Generally it was the kabinetts and spätleses that
brought the best results. Many wineries,
in fact, made little or no noble late-harvest wines. Those that did had mixed results. Only Weil, Spreitzer and a few other estates
made much in the way of auslese, beerenauslese or trockenbeerenauslese that
merit the high prices these wines fetch. These, though, are often better than similar bottlings from 2007. The number of interesting eisweins, on the
other hand, can be counted on the fingers of one hand—and were often made only
in minute quantities.
On the whole, 2008 is thus not nearly as consistent
as 2007. The finest wines are rarer and
were often produced in somewhat smaller volumes, but the best are in no way
inferior to those from last year. In fact, given their crisp, bright character
they are much more appealing to drink. Whether they will age as well remains to be seen.
I tasted the wines from 73 estates here this year.
Considering the fact that the Rheingau, with only 7,800 acres of vines, is one
of the smallest growing regions in Germany, that is an unusually large
number. In fact, the Rheingau is only a
third as large as the Mosel and smaller even than the neighboring but lesser-known
Nahe, where I tasted the wines of only 59 estates.
The finest 2008 collections were certainly those of
Josef Leitz and Robert Weil, with Breuer, Johannisberg and Schönborn close at
their heels. The most pleasant surprise, though, was the resurgence in quality
of Künstler, who used to be one of my favorite producers in the Rheingau, and
the appearance of Kanitz and Kloster Eberbach on the vinous radar screen.
As I stated above, although the vintage was not truly
compelling, a large number of wines from another two dozen estates certainly
merit closer attention. I have
highlighted 20 of them in alphabetical order below. Of those, Kanitz, Kloster Eberbach and Kuhn
actually now merit full coverage, but several of the remaining 17 can in some
vintages be almost as good.
Norbert Barth (Truly Fine Wine) is a reliable producer, with 2008
continuing in the same vein as 2007. From the Hassel site in Hattenheim he again made an appealing Riesling
Erstes Gewächs (88). Although seldom
seen in export markets, this estate is well known in Germany for its sparkling
wines, which can be surprisingly good.
After a seductive selection of
2007s, Hans-Josef Becker from J. B.
Becker in Walluf again fared well in 2008. My favorites were his Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte
Reben (89) and the sweet spätlese (89) from the same site. As he moves to biodynamic viticulture and
spontaneous fermentations, combined with drier styles, this once old-fashioned
estate is donning new robes. Keep an eye
on developments here. Although small, Diefenhardt in Martinstal is a
consistent producer of well-made values, but owner Peter Seyffahrt can also
surprise, as he did in 2008, not only with a Riesling Erstes Gewächs from his
Langenberg (88) vineyard, but also a sublime Trockenbeerenauslese (93) from the
same site. His pinot noirs are also
quite good.
Dr. Franz-Werner Michel from Domdechant Werner (Slocum & Sons,
Chambers & Chambers and Ewald Moseler) in Hochheim is widely known abroad
and his wines are seen in numerous export markets. Although not always consistent, his 2008s are
first rate, with the Domdechaney Riesling Erstes Gewächs (89) and Spätlese (90)
from the same site being my two preferred wines.
Once among the stars of the
Rheingau, the rieslings of August Eser have improved considerably since his daughter Desirée has taken over the
property, with the last two vintages marking a new morning. Although I can recommend all of her wines,
the 2008 Rauenthaler Rothenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs (89) and Spätlese (88)
from the same site are my calls from the current vintage; the 2008 Doosberg
Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (88) will also enjoy a following.
Reiner Flick in Flörsheim continues to solidify his standing among
the consistent producers in the Rheingau, with 2008 bringing another strong
performance. My two favorites this year
were the dry Riesling Grosses Gewächs from the Mönchgewann (88) and Nonnberg
(90) sites, both in Wicker. Among the
aristocratic estates in the Rheingau, Prinz
von Hessen (Folio Fine Wine Partners) in Johannisberg was long largely
forgotten. Over the past few vintages
this venerable estate has slowly begun
to reemerge. Three of their 2008 Erstes
Gewächs again show promise: the Klaus (88), Jesuitengarten (88) and Hasensprung
(89). The best, though, may be yet to
come.
The same is more than true of
the estate of Count Kanitz in
Lorch. Kurt Gablemann has shown a steady
hand here since moving across the Rhein from the Nahe. His 2008 Kappelberg (88) and Pfaffenwies (89)
Riesling Spätlese Trocken were two of three fine dry rieslings he produced this
year, the other being the Krone Alte Reben (88), but his 2008
Bodental-Steinberg Riesling Kabinett (89) in an almost Feinherb style was
perhaps his most intriguing wine. In any case, it was one of the ten finest
kabinetts of the vintage. Given their
location in Lorch, these wines speak with a Mittelrhein accent, but I find them
attractive for that very reason.
For most consumers, the
monastery of Kloster Eberbach (Vinum
Cos THIS WAS THE NAME I WAS GIVEN?? and Dee Vine Wines) in Eltville, where “The
Name of the Rose” was filmed, is little more than a tourist destination. Owned by the State of Hessen, the winery,
however, has made enormous strides over the past few vintages under the
management of Dieter Greiner. While his
Erstes Gewächs topped this year’s dry white offerings, with the Domdechaney
(89) and Berg Schlossberg (90) leading the fray, his two pinot noirs were the
biggest surprise for me. I was very
impressed by the 2007 Assmannshausen Höllenberg Spätburgunder Auslese Trocken
(91) and the 2007 Pinot Noir (92). Moreover, this estate crowned the vintage with two succulent TBAs, both
of which I rated 93 points. If 2009 is
equally impressive, this historic estate will certainly merit full coverage.
With 85 acres of vineyards,
Ferdinand Koegler from Hof Bechtermünz (Lietzau, Tucson, AZ) in Eltville not only makes 185,000 bottles a year, but
much of it is quite good, as the 2008 Eltviller Sonnenberg Riesling Erstes
Gewächs (88) and Sonnenberg Spätlese (90) amply prove. In additon, the estate not only bottled a
good TBA (90) and eiswein (91) this year, but the spätburgunders are also
rapidly improving in quality.
Speaking of quality, Peter Jakob Kühn (Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Domaine Select, New York, NY)
is obsessed. That said, I chose last
year to portray Reinhartshausen rather than this estate because Kühn’s (YES)??
spontaneous fermentations and radical changes in style have made clear
judgments about his dry wines’ intrinsic quality difficult, at least in their
youth. To diffuse that criticism, he now
releases his top dry rieslings a year later; among these, the 2007 Schlehdorn
(89) is my favorite. His noble
late-harvest wines are always beyond reproach, with his 2008 Oestricher Lenchen
Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94) being one of the top examples of the
vintage. Not surprisingly, an estate
like this has both avid followers and ardent detractors. I often feel that I am both.
Baron Langwerth von Simmern (Chambers & Chambers, Lietzau,
Southern??) is another of the beautiful old noble estates in the Rheingau with
large holdings of excellent vineyards that would make any winemaker
jealous. I have often sensed that it was
on the verge of a renaissance, but that story is still unfolding. In 2008, all three of their Riesling Erstes
Gewächs were again very good, with the Mannberg (90) showing perhaps a touch
more potential than either the Wisselbrunnen (89) or Baiken (89).
One of the pleasant surprises
over the past few years has been the emergence of the estate of Wilhelm Mohr (Savio Soares Selections)
in Lorch under the direction of Jochen Leher. Two thousand eight, however, was not an exceptional vintage for dry
riesling here, with his Steinberg (87) vineyard being the top of the pack, but
he consistently makes one of Germany’s best sparkling wines and his 2007
Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder Alte Reben (90) more than deserves an
honorable mention.
The winery of G. H. von Mumm is owned and managed by
Schloss Johannisberg. As with the
latter, the 2007s of the former brought a new lease on life. The 2008s are not quite as successful, but I
did like the Riesling Erstes Gewächs from the Berg Rottland (88) vineyard.
The star of Heinz Nikolai in Erbach continues to rise. In the difficult 2008 vintage he made two
very pleasing Riesling Erstes Gewächs from his Steinmorgen (88) and Siegelsberg
(88) vineyards. From the former, he also
bottled an elegant eiswein (92), some of which (HE MAKE A SPARKLING EISWEIN
ALMOST EVERY YEAR THAT IS MOST UNUSUAL BUT EXCELLENT) ?? he generally sets
aside to make a most unusual but nonetheless stunning sparkling wine.
Fred Prinz in Hallgarten (Dee Vine Wines and Magellan) has been
very successful over the past decade. Although his dry rieslings are not generally his strong suit, I did like
his 2008 Hallgartener Schönhell Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87). However, as is so often the case, the
Kabinett (88) and Spätlese Gold Capsule (90) from the Jungfer site were his two
best wines in 2008.
As the dry rieslings from Peter Querbach in Oestrich generally
mature well, I expect that his 2008 Oestricher Doosberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs
(89) will age gracefully. His more
off-dry 2008 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling “Q1” (88), though, is more succulent
to drink today.
As he has over 100 acres of
vineyards, an enterprising spirit and an incessant travel bug, it is not
surprising that the wines of Stefan Ress from Balthasar Ress (Frederick Wildman & Sons) in Hattenheim are
well represented in many export markets. His son Christian also aids other German producers in finding importers
for their own wines. I liked both of
this estate’s 2008 Riesling Erstes Gewächs but had a slight preference for the
richer Berg Rottland (89) over the more ascetic Berg Schlossberg (88). Father and son also managed an explosive TBA
(92) from the former site that will be sold at auction.
More classical are the wines of W. J. Schäfer in Hochheim, at the
eastern end of the Rheingau. With only
15 acres of vineyard and a total production of merely 50,000 bottles, these
bottles are not often seen in the U.S., but the 2008 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling
Ertes Gewächs (88) and Domdechaney Spätlese (89) are well crafted. Neither is quite as dense as in 2007, but
both are very reasonable priced.
Although Bernd and Ralf Schönleber in Oestrich-Winkel have been a consistent
source of well-made Rheingau rieslings for about a decade now, they upped the
ante in 2007. Their two 2008 Riesling
Erstes Gewächs from Mittelheim continue in that same vein, with the difference
between the St. Nikolaus (88) and the Edelmann (88) being more one of style
than quality. From the former site, they
also made a respectable auslese (90), but the surprise this year was a 2007
sparkling wine they named Creation Karat, an unusual blend of riesling and
pinot noir. It was one of my favorite
sekt bottlings in this summer’s tastings.
As I wrote last year, I know
that few American consumers will be looking to the Rheingau for their red wines,
but the pinot noir planted in or near Assmannshausen on the western tip of the
region can be phenomenal. And in a
vintage like 2007, which is now coming onto the market, they were. Two of the famous smaller producers here are Robert König and the Krone estate, once owned by the hotel
of the same name and now by Tom Drieseberg from Wegeler. One of the finest pinot noirs of the vintage,
though, was made by the State of Hessen at their Domäne Assmannshausen. Grown
on schist soils, and thus unmistakably German, their 2007 Assmannshäuser
Höllenberg Spätburgunder Auslese Trocken Gold Capsule Mauerwein (92) fetched an
understandably high price at a recent auction. The other great 2007 pinot noirs were made either by Kloster Eberbach,
as mentioned above, or by August Kesseler, who is reviewed in this issue.
Georg Breuer, Rüdesheim. Although its Gold Capsule
Auslese was one of the finest wines of its ilk in 2008, this estate has long
specialized more in dry rieslings, which account for the lion’s share of its
total production. So much so that front
labels like that of its Rüdesheim Estate do not even mention either riesling or
trocken, those being self-explanatory, as they would be on a bottle of
Puligny-Montrachet. As the 2008 Berg
Schlossberg heartily attests, few estates do it better and even fewer make dry
rieslings that mature so gracefully over time. Each year, I do a “ten years after” tasting of 60 top dry rieslings from
my old guide to see which are in best form. Since his death in 2004, the winner is awarded the Bernhard Breuer
Memorial Trophy. Almost without fail, at
least one of Breuer’s wines—now made by his brother Heinrich, daughter Theresa
and loyal cellarmaster Hermann Schmoranz—scores among the top ten. This year, the 1998 Berg Schlossberg took
fifth place. In dry years, the
Nonnenberg site in Rauenthal often does better; 2008 was a classical vintage
for the top sites in Rüdesheim. 2008
Rauenthaler Nonnenberg Riesling Trocken ($??): White peach, toasted nuts and vanilla on the
nose. Rich yet precise pear fruit in a
low key. Oily in texture, but with a
juicy minerality on the finish. In a
classical style—and perhaps a sleeper in 2008. 90. 2008 Rüdesheimer
Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trocken ($??): Expansive aromas of apricot pit, lemon oil and woodsmoke. The luscious tropical fruit flavors are
layered and deep, with pure minerality and enormous extract making this a wine
for the long haul. One of the finest
efforts of the vintage. 94. 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling
Auslese Gold Capsule ($??): Pale
gold. Exuberant aromas of musk, melon
[muskmelon??] and mango, plus a hint of brown-spice botrytis. The creamy papaya flavors remain delicate on
the palate due to a vibrant freshness. With a rich, juicy, elegant finish, this is one of the finest ausleses
of the vintage. 94. Also recommended: 2008 Grauer Burgunder (87), 2008 Riesling
Rüdesheim Estate (85), 2008 Riesling Rauenthal Estate (85), 2008 Riesling Terra
Montosa (87), 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Trocken (90), 2008
Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trocken (91), 2008 Riesling Auslese
(90). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Sauvage, 2008 Riesling
Charm. (Classical Wines, Seattle, WA)
Schloss Johannisberg, Johannisberg. An
icon in the Rheingau, Schloss Johannisberg had long been eclipsed in terms of
sheer quality by younger, more dynamic neighbors. However, over the past five years this estate
has slowly reemerged from the ashes, culminating in a stunning 2007 collection
that set a new benchmark here. As the
vineyards in Geisenheim generally struggle under cool, moist meteorological
conditions, 2008 is across the board not quite of the same cut, but the
highlights of the vintage are equally impressive, a tribute to the astute
skills of the new management team under the direction of Christian Witte. Anyone visiting the region will certainly
notice the imposing castle, but the large selection of old bottles maturing in
the “Bibliotheca subterranea,” as Johannisberg calls its stellar reserve
cellar, is also worth a detour. 2008
Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs Silberlack ($??): Apricot pit, lemon oil and
nutmeg on the nose. Full-bodied, but the
wine’s slightly austere texture gives focus to the flavor of star fruit. Although quite classical in style, this
wine’s pure minerality on the finish makes it exciting to drink already. 91. 2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Rotlack ($??): Aromas of peach and
guava. Sweet tropical fruits and saline
minerality brighten the palate. Spicy on
the finish. This is more for food than
for solo drinking. 87. 2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling
Spätlese Grünlack ($??): Pale golden
yellow. Bright aromas of mango, lichee
and spearmint. Luscious pit fruit flavor
lifted by a tart citrus overtone. Young,
enticing and yet rather cerebral on the finish. 91. 2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Beerenauslese Rosagoldlack ($???): Rich gold. Heady aromas of musk, ?? (MUSK MELON) melon
and mango over a fine bed of licorice botrytis. The creamy papaya flavors remain delicate on the palate due to the
wine’s sheer vibrancy. The enchantingly
long finish display a spicy, uplifting minerality. 93. 2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Eiswein ($??): Pale golden
yellow. Crisp, clean aromas of mango,
caramel and lemon oil. Rich, spicy
tropical fruits with a hint of brown spice on the palate. Perfectly balanced
eiswein with bracing saltiness and a riveting, ?? (WHY NOT RIVETING FINISH?)
finish. Again, a wine at the top of its class. 95. Also recommended: 2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett
Trocken Rotlack (86), 2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Feinherb Gelblack
(86), 2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Beerenauslese (95). Other wines tasted: 2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Trocken
Gelblack. (Valkenberg International,
Tulsa, OK)
Johannishof, Johannisberg. Johannes Eser
has over the years generally been a consistent source of inimitable Rheingau
rieslings at very attractive prices. Like many of his colleagues, though, he struggled with the weather
patterns in 2008. The two finest wines
are beyond reproach, but a number of the other bottlings lack the depth and
substance of better vintages. 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland
Riesling Spätlese ($??): Aromas of white peach,
sweet lime and lemon cress. Closed,
almost austere STAR?? fruit shows a vibrant, salty minerality. Just enough depth and spice lace a finish
that is more drinkable than cerebral.?? 89. 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling
Spätlese ($??): Pale yellow. Inviting aromas of dried apricot, nut oil and
lemon cress. Creamy yet juicy tropical
fruits sweeten the palate. An elegant,
refined wine with just enough concentration to be serious. 88. Also recommended: 2008
Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spätlese Trocken Retro Domos (87), 2008
Johannisberg Riesling Kabinett “G” (85), 2008 Johannisberger Klaus Riesling
Spätlese (87). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken Mineral, 2008
Johannisberger Hölle Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Winkler Jesuitengarten
Riesling Spätlese Trocken, 2008 Johannesberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb “S”,
2008 Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, 2008 Riesling Kabinett
Charta. (Valkenberg International,
Tulsa, OK)
Jakob Jung, Erbach. Alexander Jung,
who only recently finished his degree in winemaking at Geisenheim, took over
this estate from his father in 2006. Although his wines seldom rival the stars of the region, they are
consistent in quality and offer excellent value for money. For a producer not based in Assmannshausen,
his pinot noirs are also remarkably well styled MADE??. 2008 Erbacher Siegelsberg Riesling Erstes
Gewächs ($??): Aromas of white peach,
persimmon and mint. Fullish on the
attack, but displays a clear, crisp minerality. More linear than muscular on the finish. Still needs time. 89. 2008 Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Spätlese Feinherb ($??): Subtle aromas of apricot pit,
guava and mint leaves. Creamy, almost
sweet tropical fruits tantalize the palate. Spicy, refreshing and appealingly drinkable. 89. Also
recommended: 2008 Erbacher
Steinmorgen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Riesling Trocken Sturmhaube
(86), 2008 Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (87), 2008 Riesling
Classic Feinherb (86), 2008 Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Eiswein “S” (91), 2007
Erbacher Steinmorgen Spätburgunder (87), 2007 Pinot Noir Alexander Johannes
(88), 2007 Pinot Noir Alexander Johannes "R" (89). (New Wine Logistics??, Manhasset, New York)
August Kesseler, Assmannshausen. August Kesseler has managed to
put a more classical stamp on his once-overblown dry rieslings over the past
two vintages, with the 2008s being particularly attractive. However, the vintage brought little or none
of the noble late-harvest delicacies that he so enjoys making. Although not seen widely in the U.S., his
pinot noirs can be excellent, with the two single-vineyard bottlings from the
excellent 2007 vintage showing his estate in top form. 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling
Erstes Gewächs ($??): Apricot, lemon
zest and nut oil on the nose. Rich,
full-bodied peach skin flavor leavened by well-integrated acidity. Nicely balanced wine, finishing with a
refreshing spicy character. 90. 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Erstes
Gewächs ($??): White peach,
persimmon and sweet lime on the nose. Supple apricot fruit with salty
minerality animates the palate. Finishes
spicy and deep, if still somewhat closed. 91. 2007 Rüdesheimer
Berg Schlossberg Spätburgunder ($??): Full red-ruby. Rich aromas of
blackberry, smoked bacon fat and fresh rose. Lush in texture with sweet berry fruit of noteworthy depth. Finishes gently spice, with ripe tannins and
impressive length. 92. 2007 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg
Spätburgunder ($??): Ruby-red. Bing cherry, hazelnut and a whiff of vanilla
on the nose. Ripe raspberry fruit and
lively spiciness tease the palate. A
very nicely balanced wine with supple tannins, both elegant and complex—and a
lovely example of Rheingau pinot noir. 92(+?).
Also recommended: 2008 Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling
Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87),
2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken (88), 2007 Pinot
Noir (85), 2007 Pinot Noir Max (89). Other
wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Kabinett
Trocken, 2008 Pinot Noir Rosé. (Vineyard
Brands, Birmingham, AL)
Franz Künstler, Hochheim. After buying the Aschrott
estate in 1996 and settling into its cellars, Gunter Künstler expanded his
estate to its current 75 acres. So two
years ago he moved again, this time into the more spacious quarters that were
once occupied by the Hochheim sparkling wine company. Vintage 2007 marked a trend to reemerging
quality that has been majestically continued in 2008, producing arguably the
finest collection of dry rieslings here in over a decade. Although Künstler still makes elegantly sweet
kabinetts and spätleses, mostly for export markets, I have not tasted them, nor
the 2007 pinot noirs, which should be excellent. If this march continues, Künstler might again
soon be counted among the true icons of the Rheingau. 2008 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Erstes
Gewächs ($??): Pithy aromas of
peach, lemon oil and woodsmoke. Taut in
texture, with rich, toasty nectarine fruit supported by a well-integrated acid
structure. Finishes with very good depth
and length. In a classical style. 90. 2008 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??): Very rich aromas of apricot, bosc pear and
toasted almond. Firm, almost austere
peach fruit is complemented by a rich, salty minerality. Still closed, but displays superb length and
considerable polish. 91. 2008 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling
Trocken Gold Capsule ($??): Rich
floral aroma over apricot pit, lemon zest and sweet herbs. The palate offers intense tropical fruit
flavors with a complex acidic drive that gives the wine a juicy crispness. A touch closed, but offers excellent
potential. 92. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Hochheimer
Kirchenstück Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling
Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Hochheimer Weiss Erd Riesling Trocken (88), 2008
Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Trocken (89), 2008 Hochheimer Stielweg Riesling
Trocken Old Vines (89). (Rudi Wiest)
Josef Leitz, Rüdesheim. After two vintages that were good to very
good but not exceptional, Josef Leitz hit the bullseye in 2008. No, there was very little of the noble
late-harvest wares that some collectors associate with a great vintage, but he
was spot on in the three disciplines that matter most for those of us who
actually drink riesling on a regular basis: dry, off-dry and spätlese. In each of those categories he made one of
the ten best wines in all of Germany. While Weil scored four times (IN THE TOP TEN LISTS)??, he excelled amid
less competition with his auslese and upwards. Further, Leitz’s Dragonstone and Magic
Mountain offerings remain probably the best widely available commercial
rieslings from Germany. 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg
Schlossberg Riesling Trocken Alte Reben ($??): Bright
aromas of peach pit, almonds and clove. The ripe, crisp apricot fruit sits tightly on a salty, mineral
framework. The savory, very long finish
brings nut oils and noteworthy finesse into play. Very sophisticated wine. 92. 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trocken Alte Reben ($??): Exuberant aromas of white peach,
sage and smoked almond. Glossy, dense
apricot pit flavor is enlivened by sweet herbal inflections. The wine’s sheer depth and spicy juiciness
ensure an impressively long finish. 92. 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling
Trocken Alte Reben Gold Capsule ($??): Rich herbal aromas of dried apricot, toasted hazelnut and bacon
fat. Profoundly concentrated, unctuous
yellow fruits on the palate, which displays an ideal balance of flesh and
juiciness, not to mention superb depth. With its impeccable equilibrium and formidable length, this is one of
the finest dry rieslings of the vintage. 94. 2008 Rüdesheimer
Berg Kaisersteinfels Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken Alte Reben ($??): Pale golden yellow. Sumptuous aromas of white peach, melon and
pineapple. Delicately sweet passion
fruit flavor braced by saline minerality. A delicate spice component animates the finish of one of the finest
off-dry rieslings of the vintage. 92. 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling
Spätlese ($??): Pale golden
yellow. Mango, banana and honey on the
enticing nose. Rich, spicy tropical
fruit flavors show a hint of botrytis and creamy depth. Certainly a touch on the sweet side but nicely
balanced and seductively long, this is one of the best spätleses of the
vintage. 93. Also recommended: 2008 Rüdesheimer Trocken (85), 2008
Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Riesling Trocken
Magic Mountain (88), 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Trocken (89), 2008
Rüdesheimer Rosengarten Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008 Rüdesheimer
Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008 Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz
Riesling Spätlese (88), 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese
(90). (Terry Theise)
Schloss Reinhartshausen, Erbach. I first gave
this estate full coverage last year. Although 2008 was not quite as spectactular, Reinhartshausen remains a
major player in the Rheingau and produced four serious wines. Walter Bibo, who arrived here in 2003 and
first excelled in 2005, is obviously putting the pieces of an intricate puzzle
together. My prediction is that the best
is still to come. 2008 Erbacher Schlossberg Riesling Trocken
Erstes Gewächs ($??): Aromas of yellow plum, vanilla and oyster shell. The palate offers polished peach fruit with a
hint of sweetness and almost chalky minerality. Poised and spicy on the finish. 88. 2008 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Trocken Erstes
Gewächs ($??): White peach, lemon zest and sweet
herbs on the nose. Supple and rich in
extract, with a passion fruit flavor lifted by complex acidity. Deep but currently closed, and built for the
long haul. 90. 2008 Erbacher Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese ($??): Crisp aromas of candied pear and lemon oil. Glossy, sweet fruit with a refined impression
of weight. Offers an attractive balance
of residual sugar and acidity. 88. 2008
Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Expressive aromas of ripe apricot,
candied pineapple and herbal spices. An
unctuous nectarine flavor is given a vivacious character by subtle
acidity. Finishes with grip and
distinction. 90. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Classic (85), 2008 Hattenheimer
Wisselbrunnen Riesling Feinherb (87), 2008 Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling Feinherb
Alte Reben (87). Other wines tasted: 2008 Weissburgunder & Chardonnay
Mariannenaue, 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Mariannenaue, 2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008
Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Riesling Trocken. (Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL)
Schloss Schönborn, Hattenheim. Peter Barth, who has been the
winemaker here since 2001, was promoted to general manager in 2006. Since then
everything at this venerable old estate has been set on fast forward. With a plethora of excellent vineyards across
the full breadth of the Rheingau, Schloss Schönborn had always had the
potential to be one of the finest producers of the region, but the 2007 vintage
marked the true beginning of a new era. As Barth himself says, “2008 was a trial. Without the top sites my work
would have been almost impossible.” As it was, he made four compelling Erstes
Gewächs, two lovely spätleses and a pair of beerenausleses to crown the
vintage. 2008 Hochheimer Domdechaney
Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??): Subdued aromas of grapefruit,
lemon cress and toasted nuts. The creamy
papaya fruit extract pairs nicely with the citrus zest and keeps the wine
vibrant. A stony, somewhat salty finish
provides elegance and length. 90. 2000 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling
Erstes Gewächs ($??): Aromas of
yellow plum, cherry blossom and nut oils. At once creamy and austere, with insistent spiciness and a note of
high-toned lemon zest bringing the wine a refreshing bite. Almost monolithic at first, but surprisingly
long on the aftertaste. Offers excellent
potential. 90(+?).
2008 Hattenheimer
Pfaffenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??): Peach pit, lemon oil and soy on the nose. Candied fruits, toasted almond and a salty
minerality combine in a dense but somewhat austere palate. The very long finish shows aristocratic
poise. Classical Rheingau riesling! 91. 2008 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs ($??): Voluptuous aromas of papaya,
brioche and bacon fat. Rich and densely
packed, with a delicious minerality framing the nectarine flavor. Broad- shouldered, distinguished and
exceptionally long—and still remarkably young. 92. 2008 Erbacher
Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese ($??): Pale golden
yellow. Wildflower aromas combine with guava, cinnamon and nut
oils. The luscious tropical fruit
flavors and bacony tang work lively rather than sweet. A succulent spätlese with fine length. 91. 2008 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Beerenauslese ($??): Rich gold. Expansive aromas of carmelized apricot, banana and butter cream. Rich, spicy, high-pitched fruit with
well-chiseled stony minerality. Dense
but not heavy; in fact, deliciously sleek for a beerenauslese. Very intense and long on the finish, and not
at all cloying. 93. Also recommended: 2008
Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Hochheimer
Kirchenstück Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Hattenheimer PFaffenberg
Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (87), 2008 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett
(88), 2008 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spätlese (90), 2008 Hattenheimer
Pfaffenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (93). Other wines tasted: 2008
Riesling Trocken and 2008 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken,
2008 Riesling Feinherb. (Liberty??; Elmira
Distributing; Slocum & Sons; Dee Vine Wines, Cavatappi, Southern Wine and
Spirits)
Josef Spreitzer, Oestrich. As I wrote
last year, you generally can’t go wrong when choosing a wine from this
estate. Two thousand eight may not have
quite the depth of fruit that 2007 did, but the rieslings are all crisp, pure
and animated, from the light dry kabinetts to the majestic
trockenbeerenauslese. In fact, as they
are often light compared to the denser variants from the other top estates in
the Rheingau, the 2008s are sometimes a bit too taut, without the complexity of
a Leitz or a Schönborn, but they are nonetheless eminently drinkable—and fairly
priced. Generally the rieslings from the Doosberg
vineyard are more modern in style, often taking advantage of wild
fermentations, while those from Lenchen remain more classically Rheingau in
profile,
but those differences were a touch muted in 2008. 2008 Oestricher Lenchen Rosengarten
Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??): Apricot
pit, honeysuckle and mint leaf on the nose. Luscious tropical fruit is held in check by the crisp, vibrant
acidity. Juicy and dynamic on the finish. 89. 2008 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??): Subtle aromas of
white peach, lemon oil and oyster shell. Pure, dense APRICOT ?? fruit with finely chiseled minerality. A touch austere, but this rather stylish wine
finishes with excellent length. 90. 2008 Winkler
Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese ($??): Sweet herbs, lemon candy and
acacia honey on the nose. The sweet
tropical fruit flavors are kept light by a refreshing, cooling mintiness and
bracing minerality. Quite luscious, long
and fun to drink. 88. 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese
303 ($??): Pale golden yellow. Rich aromas of lily and cinnamon waft over a
hint of musky botrytis. Impressively
rich, almost creamy papaya flavor shows a distinctly velvety texture. In spite of the wine’s honeyed sweetness, its
balance allows complex nuances of WILD HERBS?? to appear on the very long
finish. 92. 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Eiswein
Gold Capsule ($??): Rich gold with green highlights. Crisp aromas of glazed pineapple, nut oil and aromatic
resin. Rich, dense tropical fruit
flavors displays a honeyed texture but are nicely framed and lifted by vibrant
acidity. The long finish combines juicy
fruit and salty mineral layers. 94. Also recommended: 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett
Trocken (85), 2008 Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008
Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen
Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (86), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese
Halbtrocken (87), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008
Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Riesling Charta (87),
2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese (89),2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling
Auslese (89), 2008 Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Auslese (90), 2008 Ostricher
Lenchen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (92), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling
Beerenauslese (92), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling TBA (93), 2008 Ostricher
Doosberg Riesling Eiswein (90). Other
wines tasted: Also tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Riesling. (Terry Theise)
Schloss Vollrads, Oestrich-Winkel. With its imposing castle perched atop a hillock and surrounded by 150
acres of vineyards, this estate has long been one of the flagships of the
Rheingau. Further, as they produce
500,000 bottles a year, they are well distributed around the world. Now the investments of the bank that owns the
property are beginning to bear fruit, assuring a high level of average quality
and good value for money. And while 2007
was certainly the better year here, the 2008s are all above reproach. Much of the credit for this development goes
to Rowald Hepp, who has managed the property for the past seven years. 2008 Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs
Spätlese ($??): Aromas of white
peach, nut oil and lemon balm. Pure,
succulent apricot flavor complemented by a low-keyed spice character. Tightly strung, classical Rheingau style with
appealing length. 89. 2008 Riesling Kabinett ($??): Fresh peach and lemon oil on the nose. Bright, clean tangerine fruit with tangy
saline minerality. Nicely balanced. 87. 2008 Riesling Spätlese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Withdrawn
aromas of bosc pear, sweet herbs and lemon zest. Juicy NECTARINE?? fruit shows a hint of
sweetness and a nice salty note. Well
balanced in a somewhat old-fashioned style. 89. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling
Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Riesling
Feinherb (86), 2008 Riesling Feinherb “Edition” (86), 2008 Riesling Kabinett
Feinherb (87), 2008 Riesling (86). Other
wines tasted: Also tasted: 2008
Riesling Trocken. (Schmidt & Söhne, Baltimore, MD)
Geheimrat J. Wegeler Erben, Oestrich-Winkel. With their sizeable vineyard
holdings, Tom Drieseberg, Michael Burgdorf and Andreas Holderrieth are
generally able to bottle more than just a few excellent wines each year. Although I am surprised that their dry rieslings
are not available in America, as they are what you are most likely to see in
famous German restaurants, my favorite wine in 2008 was again the delicate
Riesling Kabinett from the Schlossberg vineyard, which is certainly one of the
finest efforts of the vintage. 2008 Rüdesheimer
Berg Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett ($??): Whte
peach, mint and lemon oil on the nose. The palate offers delicate, crisp passion fruit set off by vibrant spices. Well-balanced and fun to drink, yet a very
serious wine. 89. 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling
Spätlese ($??): Delicate aromas of white
peach, pear drop and sassafras. Toasty,
creamy texture of apricot skin with a refreshing mint tang. Nicely balanced spätlese with a slatey
minerality ringing on the finish. 90. 2008 Geisenheimer Rothenberg Riesling
Auslese ($??): Pale golden
yellow. Aromas of yellow plum, lime
zest and black pepper. Creamy lemon and
pineapple fruits weighs a bit heavy on the palate. This supple auslese boasts a refined
elegance, but is hardly more interesting than the more animated spätlese. 90. Also recommended: 2008
Winkeler Hasensprung Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg
Schlossberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs (88), 2008 Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling
Erstes Gewächs (88), 2008 Geheimrat J Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2008
Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Pur (86), 2008 Geisenheimer Rothenberg Riesling
Beerenauslese (92). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett
Trocken. (Rudi Wiest)
Robert Weil, Kiedrich. With 75 hectares of vineyards
and an annual production of over 500,000 bottles this estate is not only one of
the largest in Germany but also one of the best. While 2007 shone more on the drier side, 2008
brought a bevy of noble late-harvest rieslings that were not only lusciously
dense, but also refreshingly light owing to lively acidity. Athough I describe only one of them below,
this estate made three of the top ten stickies this year and one of the finest
ausleses to boot. Perhaps only Keller in
Rheinhessen manages the range from dry riesling to trockenbeerenauslese quite
as well, but he make only a fraction of the volume, which is why Weil is one of
the few wineries in Germany to have an almost branded character, similar to the
finest growths in Bordeaux. 2008
Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??): Aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and
lemon zest. Dense, almost exotic fruit
with an oyster shell spiciness and a touch of hyacinth. In spite of the sheer weight this wine
literally dances across the palate. Excellent finish. 91. 2008 Riesling Kabinett ($??): Subtle aromas of ripe peach, lemon oil and
nettles. Crisp star fruit flavor
enlivened by vibrant spice. Well-balanced and fun to drink. 87. 2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling
Spätlese ($??): High-toned aromas of
glazed apricot, cinnamon and vanilla . Rich, full-bodied papaya flavor is complicated by mineral salts and kept
fresh by a spicy crispness. Classic! 92. 2008
Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction wine): Candied
pineapple, roasted pine nut and a hint of vanilla mingle with brown spice
botrytis on the nose. The sweet, weighty
tropical fruit flavors flow creamily over the palate. An exalted nectar of an extremely classical
style, sensual and long, this is one the finest ausleses of the vintage. 94. 2007 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeernauslese ($??): Rich golden yellow. Exuberant aromas of caramelized peach, quince
preserves and oyster shell on a bed of honeyed botrytis. Incredibly density, creaminess and richness
paired with a juicy, almost salty tanginess. WITH SUCCULENT CARAMEL FLAVORS AND HONEYED TEXTURE, THIS WINE IS -
?? In spite of its depth and weight -
still impressively elegant. With its palate-saturating length, this is
one of the great wines of the vintage. 96. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Kiedricher
Klosterberg Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken
(89), 2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken (89), 2008 Kiedricher
Turmberg Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Auslese
(90), 2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese (92), 2008 Kiedricher
Turmberg Riesling Beerenauslese (94), 2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling
Beerenauslese (94), 2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Beerenauslese Gold
Capsule (95), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (95). (Loosen Brothers, Portland,
OR)
Rheinhessen
“If you like refreshing acidity paired with elegance,
2008 is one of the best vintages in recent history,” says Klaus-Peter Keller,
who again tops the charts in Rheinhessen. Few of the wines have the creamy depth of the 2007s, nor are they as
consistent across the board, but the finest have more nerve and are more
intriguing and seductive. That said, too
few estates in Rheinhessen took full advantage of the natural potential of the
vintage. Those that harvested too
early—and they were the large majority—seldom made more than so-so wines, and
these were often tainted by bitter, green acidity.
In total, I tasted wines from
134 estates in Rheinhessen this year. There was seldom the sheer excitement that you find, say, on the Mosel,
but the quality level is now, in spite of the vintage, far more consistent than in the past
and generally quite appealing. Further,
the dry wines that are becoming more popular not only in Germany but also in a
number of export markets are better here than most of those you can find on the
Mittelrhein, Ruwer or Saar. The same
revolution is now taking place here that began in the Pfalz over ten years ago.
Some serious wine drinkers still look down their
noses at Rheinhessen as the home of Liebfraumilch, but the region’s reputation
has risen considerably over the past decade. Although not from the classical Rheinfront
near Nierstein, Keller, Wittmann and Wagner-Stempel are the tip of an iceberg
that is slowly emerging. While
Battenfeld-Spanier, Dreissigacker and Kühling-Gillot are now beginning to make
names for themselves, Gutzler, St. Antony?? [or Sankt?? BOTH ARE CORRECT. SANKT
MEANS SAINT AND St. IS THE ABBREVIATION. THEY WRITE ST. ANTONY ON THE LABEL]
and Winter are waiting in the wings. Moreover, there are numerous other properties that barely appear on the
radar screen outside of Germany, but let me mention briefly a handful of the
best in alphabetical order in the following paragraphs.
Friederich Groebe (Magellan) in Biebersheim has a very individual
style, which is often difficult to understand in its youth. The wines age well but need time. This year, I liked his 2008 Westhofener
Aulerde Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88), but scored the Riesling Grosses Gewächs
from the neighboring Kirchspiel site slightly higher.
From humble beginnings, Gerhard and Michael Gutzler (Truly Fine
Wine, San Diego, CA) in Gundheim have slowly emerged as serious players in
Rheinhessen, with 2008 perhaps being the best vintage I have ever tasted
here. The 2008 Wormser Liebfrauenstift
Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (90) and 2007 Westhofener
Morstein Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs (91) are both first class, while the
entry-level wines are better than ever. A repeat performance next year will guarantee this estate full coverage
in these pages.
While Ernst Fauth from the Seehof estate in Westhofen has long been
known for his sweet wines, the 2008 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trocken Alte
Reben (87) provided an attractive glimpse at his drier side. Jonannes Geil-Bierschenk at Oekonomierat Johannes Geil I. Erben (Terry Theise) remains consistent, with his 2008 Bechtheimer Geyersberg
Silvaner Spätlese Trocken “S” (87) being my call among the dry wines. A surprise last year, Jürgen Hoffmann in Appenheim, on the northern stretches of
Rheinhessen near Bingen, turned in another fine performance, with his 2008
Grüner Silvaner Trocken “S” (88) and 2008 Appenheimer Hundertgulden Riesling
Spätlese Trocken (89) both showing considerable promise.
While few of the old estates in
Nierstein retain even a shadow of their former glory, producers like Dieter and
Daniel Huff from Gustav Adolf Huff are beginning to find more light in their place. I liked both their 2008
Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (87) and 2008 Niersteiner
Schloss Scwabsburg Riesling Auslese (88). Eric Manz in Weinolsheim is
best known for his luscious late-harvest offerings, but his 2008 Grüner
Silvaner Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (88) and 2008 Weinolsheimer Kerz Riesling
Spätlese Trocken (88) prove that his dry wines can merit serious
attention as well. The same is true of
Christian Petz (PETH IS CORRECT)?? from Peth-Wetz in Bermersheim with his Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Auslese Trocken
(87). Erik Riffel in Bingen also had another fine vintage, culminating in
his 2008 Binger Scharlachberg Turm Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89).
Sankt?? Antony ( I ALWAYS WRITE SANKT ANTONY FIRST AND THEN
ABBREVIATE. A GERMAN WOULD ALWAYS PRONOUNCE THE NAME SANKT ANTONY NOT SAINT
ANTONY) is, with Gutzler, the other true success story of the current vintage,
and one that is probably only just beginning to be told. Detlev Meyer purchased this estate a couple
years ago, then took a long-term lease on Heyl zu Herrnsheim and moved the two
together into the old Gustav Adolf Schmitt cellars near the Rhine. Currently, he also has plans to build a
spectactular new winery nearby. In Felix
Peters he found the right young gentleman to spearhead the quality
development. The three Riesling Grosses
Gewächs from the Oelberg (88), Orbel (89) and Pettenthal (89) sites show that
he is on the right track. If the 2009s
are equally good, this estate will also merit full coverage in these pages next
year.
Another surprise from the
Wonnegau has been the emergence over the past two vintages of Stefan Winter in little-known
Dittelsbach. The dry rieslings from both
the Geyersberg (88) and Leckerberg (89) site are well-hewn and still reasonably
priced. Although Winter may not have
the sheer vineyard potential, he is thought by many to be one of the most
talented young winemakers of the new generation.
Although
even Champagne is suffering in the American market at present, let me briefly
mention in closing German sparkling wines. Volker Raumland (Rudi Wiest)
in Flörsheim-Dalsheim in the southern part of Rheinhessen is probably making
the best méthode champenoise in all of Germany. His 2005 Triumvirat (92) was again one of my three favorite German
sparkling wines this year; his 2004 Chardonnay Sekt Brut Prestige (91) and 2004
Pinot Sekt Brut Prestige (90), both also in my top ten, confirm his
talent. There are few producers in
Champagne working this consistently across such a wide range.
Battenfeld-Spanier, Hohen-Sülzen. Few wine lovers had ever heard of Hohen-Sülzen before
Hans Oliver Spanier put the Kirchenstück and Frauenberg sites at the far
southern end of Rheinhessen near the border to the Pfalz on the map. Although he had been making interesting wines
for years, Spanier’s excellent rieslings from the difficult 2006 vintage caused
skeptics of his organic methods, spontaneous fermentations and use of large oak
casts to sit up and take note. He is now
in his second year of biodynamic viticulture; the 2008s are the purest
rieslings he has bottled to date and prove that his admission to the VDP was
not a fluke. 2008 Hohen-Sülzer (THIS IS
CORRECT. THE VILLAGE IS HOHEN-SÜLZEN, WHICH BECOMES HOHEN-SÜLZER AS AN
ADJECTIVE)?? Riesling Trocken ($??): Subtle
aromas of white peach and wild herbs. Bright persimmon fruit adds spice to the palate. Juicy and slightly musky on the finish. 87. 2008 Hohen-Sülzer?? Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Apricot pit, smoked meat and lime
on the nose. Refined and juicy in
texture, with a passion fruit flavor complicated by salty minerality. Crisp, bright acidity enlivens the
finish. 90. 2008 Flörsheimer Frauenberg Riesling
Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Succulent aromas of nectarine, smoked meat and herbal spices. Deep on the palate, with an intense flavor of
cling peach and a velvety texture. Complex spices unfold in perfect clarity on the long, animated finish. Offers excellent potential. 92. Also recommended: 2008
Weissburgunder Trocken (85), 2008 Hohen-Sülzer Weissburgunder (87), 2008
Hohen-Sülzer Grüner Sylvaner Trocken (88), 2008 Riesling
Trocken (85), 2008 Mölsheimer Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Hohen-Sülzer
Kirchenstück Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (91), 2007 Pinot Noir (85), 2007
Hohen-Sülzer Kirchenstück Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs (88). (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY)
Dreissigacker, Bechtheim. Of the numerous villages in the Wonnegau, Bechtheim
has long enjoyed a good reputation but has been eclipsed of late by neighboring
Westhofen. Much of that has to do,
though, with the quality of wine made by the best producers in the two
villages. In Bechtheim, there has been a
shift in the pecking order, with Jochen Dreissigacker and, to a lesser extent,
Jürgen Spiess slowly emerging as the dominant players. These wines may not have the genius of the
finest in Westhofen, but they certainly have charm. And since 2007, they are certified “green.” 2008 Weisser Burgunder Einzigacker ($??): White peach and almond on the nose. The pineapple fruit is given a crisp texture by the wine’s refreshing
acidity. More Chablis than Meursault,
this wine finishes with appealing lightness. 88. 2008 Bechtheimer
Rosengarten Riesling Trocken ($??): Aromas of apricot, lichee and honeysuckle. Refined and velvety on the palate, with crisp
pear flavor framed by zesty acidity. A salty
minerality on the finish gives this wine added dimension. 89. 2008 Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling Trocken ($??): Exuberant aromas of ripe apricot, wild herbs
and sweet lime. Crisp nectarine fruit
and succulent texture are juxtaposed here in perfect clarity. A touch austere, but pleasingly spicy on the
finish. 90. Also recommended: 2008 Bechtheimer Silvaner
Trocken (87), 2008 Grauburgunder Trocken (86), 2008 Westhofener Chardonnay
Trocken (87), 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Bechtheimer Riesling Trocken
(86), 2008 Bechtheimer Hasensprung Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Bechtheimer
Stein Riesling Auslese (90), 2008 Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling
Trockenbeerenauslese (90), 2008 Bechtheimer Heiligkreuz Rieslaner
Trockenbeerenauslese (90), 2007 St. Laurent (87), 2007 Bechtheimer Geyersberg
Pinot Noir (88). (Wine Symphony, New York, NY)
Gunderloch,
Nackenheim. Few producers have done more
to promote German wines abroad than Fritz Hasselbach, whose label can be found
in the four corners of the world. The
last of the traditional estates along the famous Roter Hang (red slope) north
of Nierstein to still make excellent wine, his star, too, appeared to fading,
but my first look at the 2008s brought cause for hope, reminding me of days of
yore. If the spätlese, auslese and
upwards that I have yet to taste are of similar quality, there is legitimate
cause for joy in Nackenheim. 2008 Niersteiner Pettenthal
Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??): Restrained aromas of
white peach, quince and lime. Succulent
citrus fruit flavors show just enough weight to balance the crisp acidity. Clean on the finish, but this young wine only
hints at its potential today. 88+. 2008 Nackenheimer Rothenberg
Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??): Candied peach, herbal
spices and persimmon on the nose. The
rich apricot fruit and crisp texture remain taut on the palate. Possesses good weight but is still youthfully
closed. 89. Also recommended: 2008 Silvaner Trocken (85), 2008 Niersteiner
Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Jean Baptiste
(85). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken (Rudi Wiest)
Keller, Flörsheim-Dalsheim. After his show-stopping 2007s, Klaus-Peter
Keller left himself little wiggle room to improve in 2008. It is true that there was not the wealth of
noble late-harvest wines this year that 2007 brought in abundance, but a number
of those?? [2008?? YES] offerings are nonetheless at the top of their class in
all of Germany. This estate, however,
makes no bones about its commitment to dry wines. And they are, at least in their consistency
at the entry level, better than ever before. The precision with which Keller underlines the individual style of each
vineyard site at the high end was already beyond reproach. Now, his French clonal material for pinot noir is beginning to mature in the
vineyard, and he hopes to give the masters of that discipline a run for their
money in the near future too. After broadening his vineyard
holdings in Westhofen, Keller has now set his sights on Nierstein, where an
enormous potential still lies untapped. As no one in Germany is so accomplished in so many endeavors, he is
likely to succeed there as well.
2008 Dalsheimer Hubacker
Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Elegant
aromas of white peach, pine nuts and lime. Crisp structure, fine weight?? and an invigorating nectarine flavor
animate the palate. Salty minerality provides charm and extends the
finish. This is the most feminine of the
estate’s dry rieslings and one of the most approachable in its youth. 91. 2008 Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Ethereal aromas of apricot pit,
lemon oil and pine nuts. Crisp, fresh
and light, this wine has what many dry rieslings lack: nerve, poise and balance. The salty minerality is elegant and
persistent, the spice penetrating and the finish extremely long. This is my favorite of the estate’s dry
rieslings to drink today. 92. 2008 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trocken
Grosses Gewächs ($??): Rich aromas
of ripe apricot, dried almond, candied lime and smoke. The wine’s opulent texture and unctuously
ripe peach flavor are balanced by a subtle acid structure that should enable
this riesling to develop in bottle. A
persistent ginger spiciness lingers on the finish. Rather unevolved today, this wine should look
better a few years down the road. 93. 2008 Riesling Trocken G Max ($??): Animated aromas of passion fruit, lemon oil
and pine nuts. The dense nectarine fruit
and bright acid structure are charming and thought-provoking??. With its depth, richnes and intriguingly
complex finish, this is certainly one of the finest dry rieslings of the
vintage. 94. 2008 Westhofener Abtserde Riesling Trocken
Grosses Gewächs ($??): Captivating
aromas of nectarine, nut oil and lemon zest. The succulent apricot fruit and textural richness are kept vibrant by a
salty minerality that lingers tantalizingly on the finish. With perfect clarity
and impressive intensity, this is a show-stopper. One of the two or three finest dry rieslings
of the vintage! 95. 2008
Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese: Pale
gold. Elegant aromas of yellow plum, quince and acacia
honey. The succulent tropical fruits and
lively acidity remain light and crisp on the palate, so that the wine’s depth
is not at first apparent. This elegant
wine finishes with a seductive spice character. Offers very goood potential. 92. 2008 Westhofener Abtserde Riesling Spätlese Gold
Capsule (auction wine): Golden
yellow. Dazzling aromas of yellow plum, vanilla and cinnamon
shine through a hint of brown spice botrytis. The pear fruit extract provides depth??, but is also nicely framed and
lifted by vibrant, elegant acidity. Extremely long, with the finish offering rich spice and noteworthy
depth. The best spätlese from
Rheinhessen and one of the finest in Germany. 93. 2008 Westhofener Morstein Riesling
Trockenbeerenauslese Gold Capsule ($??): Rich gold. The ethereal aromas of peach nectar, passion fruit,
lemon oil and pine nut are almost lost in the herbal botrytis. Unctuous, sweet and incredibly deep, this
wines saturates the palate with spicy minerality. With its extremely long and lush finish, this
fascinating wine is one the great efforts of the vintage! 95. 2007
Pinot Noir “FR” (auction wine): Full red-ruby. Rich blackberry, bing cherry and vanilla on
the nose. Sweet, full-bodied boysenberry
fruit and ripe tannins animate the palate. The oak is nicely integrated. Offers a distinguished personality and noteworthy depth, and finishes
with impressive length. 92. Also
recommended: 2008 Grauer Burgunder
“S”(89), 2008 Weisser Burgunder “S” (90), 2008 Westhofener Scheurebe Trocken
(88), 2008 Riesling Trocken Vom Muscheligen Kalk (86), 2008 Westhofener
Riesling Trocken (88), 2008 Riesling Trocken Von der Fels (89), 2008 Riesling
Trocken “RR”, 2008 Riesling Kabinett Limestone (87), 2008 Westhofener Abtserde Riesling Auslese Auction Wine (92), 2008
Monsheimer Silberberg Rieslaner Beerenauslese (94), 2008 Monsheimer Silberberg
Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese (95), 2007 Spätburgunder “S” (89), 2007
Dalsheimer Bürgel Pinot Noir Felix Grosses Gewächs (91). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken. (Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Dee Vine
Wines, San Francisco, CA)
Kühling-Gillot, Bodenheim. Over
the past four vintages this estate has begun to emerge from its peers along the
Rheinfront, that small stretch of red slate vineyards sloping down to the Rhine
across from the Rheingau. While the 2007
Pettenthal Grosses Gewächs was perhaps the single most stunning wine made here
in the past couple of years, 2008 is the more consistent vintage across the
board, with the “simple” Nierstein Riesling providing the best value for
money. Now married to Hans Oliver Spanier from the
Battenfeld-Spanier estate further south in Rheinhessen, Carolin Spanier-Gillot
and her husband are becoming a formidable pair. As I wrote last year, with its park, Jugendstil villa and new tasting
room, this is an estate to visit if you are traveling along the Rhine. 2008 Niersteiner Riesling Trocken ($??): Tangerine and lemon on the
nose. Firm and bright, with a
bittersweet note that adds interest to the PASSION FRUIT?? flavor. The juicy finish features slightly smoky
spices. 88. 2008 Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Trocken
Grosses Gewächs ($??): Bright aromas
of apricot, persimmon and herbal spice. With ripe nectarine fruit and crisp minerality, this riesling shows good
weight and character, but lacks the distinguished complexity of the
Pettenthal. 89. 2008 Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling
Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): White
peach, pine nuts and lemon oil on the nose. The palate offers a refined texture, with pure apricot fruit framed by
zesty acidity. An almost salty
minerality on the finish will assure this wine a long life. 90. Also recommended: 2008 Scheurebe Trocken Qvinterra (86), 2008 Gewürztraminer Feinherb
Qvinterra (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken Qvinterra (85), 2008 Oppenheimer Riesling
Trocken (87), 2008 Oppenheimer Sackträger Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs
(88), 2008 Oppenheimer Sackträger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (90), 2008
Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (91), 2007 Bodenheimer
Burgweg Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs (89). Other wines tasted: 2008
Grauburgunder Trocken Qvinterra. (Domaine Select Wine Estates,
New York, NY)
Wagner-Stempel,
Siefersheim. While the warmer 2007 vintage brought a creamy
richness to the wines of this estate located in the northwestern corner of
Rheinhessen near the Nahe in a region known locally as Little Switzerland, the
2008s are far more classical. Grown at
comparatively high altitudes on stony, quarzite soils layered with porphyry, their nervous poise, steely
character and salty acidic backbone are closer in style to those of Tim
Fröhlich than of Klaus-Peter Keller. For
those who shy away from crisp acidity, these wines will improve markedly with
bottle age. 2008 Siefersheimer Riesling
Trocken vom Porphyr ($??): White peach and oyster
shell on the nose. The bright star fruit
flavor reflectsIS FRAMED BY?? the salty minerality on the palate. Crisp, clean and appealing. 88. 2008 Siefersheimer Höllberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Bright aromas of tangerine, wild
herbs and lemon zest. Dense honeydew
melon flavor displays plenty of buoyancy. An exotic MINERAL?? acidity adds
spice to the bright, clean finish. 89. 2008 Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling
Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Apricot stone, pine nuts and lemon oil on the nose. Spicy nectarine fruit shows plenty of flesh
as well as nerve. The wine’s salty
minerality and animated finish should give it long life. 90. 2008 Siefersheimer Höllberg Riesling Spätlese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Warm aromas of yellow plum, redcurrant and clove. Rich and savory, this ??SUPPLE spatlese shows
both depth and elegance. Good extract
and exotic STEELY?? acidity will keep it alive for years. 90. 2008 Siefersheimer
Heerkretz Riesling Spätlese ($??): Pale golden yellow. Enticing aromas of ripe peach, smoked almond and
fennel. Luxuriantly sumptuous nectarine
flavor is framed and enlivened by bracing acidity. Long and spicy on the finish, this is a a
tantalizing spätlese. 91. 2008
Siefersheimer Höllberg Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale
gold. Luscious aromas of ripe plum, candied pineapple and
ginger dominate a hint of smoky botrytis. Peach nectar, tobacco and licorice share the stage on the rich but juicy
middle palate. Finishes spicy, deep and
long, with a palate-saturating flavor of candied lemon. 92. Also recommended: 2008 Silvaner
Trocken (85), 2008 Siefersheimer Silvaner Trocken (88), 2008 Weisser Burgunder Trocken (85), 2008
Siefersheimer Weisser Burgunder (87), 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Trocken (89), 2008 Riesling
Trocken (85), 2008 Siefersheimer
Heerkretz Riesling Eiswein (93). (Terry Theise)
Wittmann, Westhofen. Neither Philip Wittmann nor his father
preach organic viticulture from the pulpit, but since 1990 theirs is one of the oldest
certified estates in Germany. Since
2003, they have moved on to biodynamics with equally little pomp and
circumstance. As they are renowned for
their majestic dry rieslings, many overlook their silvaner and pinot blanc,
both of which can be excellent as well. At the head of the 2008 collection are two stunning Grosses
Gewächs. While I prefer the elegance of
the Brunnenhäuschen today, the Morstein is certainly the better wine over the
long haul. 2008 Westhofener Kirschspiel
Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Wild aromas of apricot, vanilla and lime
oil. The
bright guava fruit is elegant and fascinatingly complex. With alluring spice on a long, seductive
finish, this is the most flattering of the Grosses Gewächs to drink in its
youth. 91. 2008 Westhofener
Morstein Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Vineyard peach, sweet lime and cinnamon on
the exuberant nose. The intense depth of
passion fruit and perfectly balanced acidity embrace?? the palate. With its
combination of sheer weight and uplifting spice on the finish, this is the most
masculine of all these grand crus and certainly the wine with the most
potential. 92(+?). 2008 Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Riesling
Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Subtle
aromas of apricot pit, pine nuts and laurel. The intriguing papaya fruit has both depth and
elegance. A wine of enormous complexity,
displaying spicy weight in the middle palate but an ethereal lightness on the
finish. Is this truly the best of the three
or is it just showing especially well today? 93. 2008 Westhofener Morstein Riesling
Spätlese ($??): Pale golden
yellow. Fine aroma of passion fruit,
lime oil and herbal spice. The subtle
peach fruit marries nicely with the salty minerality and keeps the wine
refreshingly light. Serious yet
seductive on the back end. 90. 2008 Westhofener
Morstein Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale gold. Wild plum, vanilla and pine nuts over a hint
of licorice botrytis on the nose. The
rich tropical fruits are animated by a lively acidity that keep the palate
fresh. With good weight and supple
texture, this wine finishes on a spicy note. 91. Also recommended: 2008 Westhofener Silvaner Trocken (88), 2008
Weissburgunder Trocken (85), 2008 Weisser Burgunder “S” (89), 2008 Riesling
Trocken (86), 2008 Westhofener Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Westhofenener
Aulerde Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Westhofenener Morstein
Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (89). (Frederick
Wildman & Sons, New York, NY)
Pfalz
The first sign of rot near summer’s end in 2008, in
particular in the Mittelhaardt, was enough to snap the nerves of many
producers. Numerous estates had finished
harvesting by late September, long before the more serious winemakers had even
begun. That said, even those who waited
were not blessed with the high must weights seen in 2007, but instead with
rieslings of “concentrated lightness” [whose words?? BETTINA BÜRKLIN] and
refreshing minerality. Fortunately,
there were very few blockbusters with 14% alcohol, as in some recent vintages,
and rather more bright acidity to enliven the palate. Further, many estates are now fermenting
their rieslings to full dryness.
Although some importers in the States still carry a
selection of sweeter rieslings from the Pfalz—wines that are almost never seen
in Germany—more and more are bringing in dry wines these days. And that is how it should be, for the Pfalz
is known principally for its dry rieslings. Some of the better estates no longer even make sweet kabinetts or
spätleses.
Given the fact that many producers had finished the
crush by late September, a bitter, green thread still runs through a lot of the
white wines. The 2008s are not as
consistently good as the 2007s, but the best stand just as tall, albeit in a
different style—one that I often find more drinkable, at least in the early
going. The 2007s, however, may be the better wines for the distance.
Although few American importers carry weissburgunder
(pinot blanc), it is a variety that consumers should take more seriously when
thinking of the Pfalz. While in many
parts of the world pinot blanc is at best a refreshing wine to quaff, it can be
excellent in the southern Palatinate. With a few notable exceptions, however, 2008 was not a great vintage for
this variety.
Similarly, although German red wine is only slowly
becoming an export item, I have included a number of the better examples
below. In fact, 40% of the vineyard area
in the Pfalz is now planted with red grapes, and pinot noir from the southern
part of the region near the Alsatian border can be exceptional, with wines from
Fritz Becker, Willi Bernhart or even Knipser in the north easily mistaken for
Burgundy in blind tastings. Because 2007
(which is only just now coming onto the market) is the best pinot noir year
many Pfalz producers have ever had, now may be the time to try a bottle or two.
Although his style is often austere in its youth,
Rebholz is still the man to beat in the Pfalz, but competition is fierce.
Knipser is hard at his heels and for dry riesling no one can match the breadth
and depth of Bürklin-Wolf’s range in 2008. Among the 18 estates given full coverage below, the only change from
last year is Faubel replacing Siegrist in the line-up. But beyond the stars of the region there is
an exceptionally long list of reliable producers making interesting wines,
often at very reasonable prices.
I tasted wines from over 150 estates this past summer
and was again impressed by the sheer number of good wines from numerous
less-known producers in what was certainly a very good but difficult vintage
for the Pfalz. In many cases, individual
wines from the following twenty-nine estates were every bit as good as some of
those from the players given full coverage. The former producers are profiled
briefly below in alphabetical order, with six meriting the most serious
attention: Bergdolt in Duttweiler, Bernhart in Schweigen, Gies-Düppel and
Kleinmann in Birkweiler, Herbert Messmer in Burrweiler and Karl Schäfer in
Dürkheim.
While I had expected more of their 2007s,
Anna-Barbara Achim and Vincenz Troesch from Achim-Magin in Forst were
beyond reproach in 2008. In fact, with their 2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling
Grosses Gewächs (89) and 2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs
(89), they are beginning to show the true potential of this estate.
Consistent now over the past
three vintages, Otto Haass from Benderhof in Kallstadt continues to make fine dry rieslings, with the 2008 Herxheimer Himmelreich
Riesling Trocken (87) and, in particular, the 2008 Kallstadter Kreidekeller
Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (90) being my favorites. His red wines can also be surprisingly
good. Rainer Bergdolt in Duttweiler emerged from the ashes this
year. An estate with an excellent
reputation a decade ago, the wines here had seldom been more than good for a
number of years, but their 2008
Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs (91) and, above all, 2008
Kirrweiler Mandelberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gewächs (92) put them back in the
spotlight. If the 2009s are equally
good, this estate will merit full coverage next year.
While Gert Bernhart (ImportANT Wines, Venice, FL) in Schweigen has seldom trumped in white,
his 2008 Schweigener Sonnenberg Rädling Weissburgunder Grosses Gewächs (88)
showed surprising elegance. That said,
he remains known principally for his excellent pinot noirs, as the 2007 Pinot
Noir “R” (90) and the 2007 Schweigener Sonnenberg Rädling Spätburgunder Grosses
Gewächs (93) heartily attest. If you are
looking for an alternative to Friedrich Becker, this is the place to go. After the death of Gerhard Biffar in 2004, the
estate Josef Biffar (Terry
Theise) has been buffeted by the winds. They still sport an impressing array of vineyards, but have seldom been
as consistent as they were before. However,
they always turn out one or two excellent wines. This year my favorite was the 2008
Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89).
New in these pages this year is Dengler-Seyler in Maikammer, who
bottled three white 2008s that I rated 88 points: a pinot blanc, a pinot gris
and the riesling Schlangenässel. The
pinot noir is almost as good and shows Matthias Seyler’s steady hand. Moreover, these wines are all very reasonably
priced. As always, Fitz-Ritter (Winesellers Ltd., Skokie,
IL) in Bad Dürkheim impressed with a 2008 Rieslaner Beerenauslese (94), but his
dry 2008 Ungsteiner Kanzel Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88) was also good. Another pleasant surprise was the estate’s
2008 Dürkheimer Abtsfronhof Gewürztraminer Spätlese (90).
Karl-Heinz Gaul in Sausenheim continues to be one of the most
consistent producers not given full coverage in these pages. His Neuleininger Schlossberg Riesling
Spätlese “KD” Trocken (90) was perhaps slightly better than the non-dry
Riesling Spätlese “KD” (89) from the same site. He also made an excellent red wine, a 2007 St. Laurent (89) from
vineyards in the neighboring Sausenheimer Honigsack site. A major surprise last year was his neighbor
and namesake Matthias Gaul in Asselheim,
whose 2008s were again fine, if not so outstanding. Consistent across the board, a 2008
Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Trocken (89) topped the bill, along with a 2007
Cabernet Franc (89).
At the southern end of the
Palatinate, Volker
Gies from Gies-Düppel in Birkweiler
had another fine vintage, excelling in three disciplines, with his 2008
riesling, 2008 pinot blanc and 2007 pinot noir, all from the Kastanienbusch
vineyard, each garnering 90 points. This
is an estate to watch. Christian Heussler in Rhodt, a
beautiful village in the southern Palatinate, shone with a 2008 Schlossberg
Riesling Spätlese Trocken Granit (90), as did Immengarten Hof in Maikammer with
both its 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Bundsandstein (91) and 2007 Syrah (90). Johannes Kleinmann in Birkweiler is
another producer from the southern Palatinate who is gradually making his
mark. While his rieslings can be first
class, it was his 2008 Birkweiler Mandelberg Weisser Burgunder Spätlese Trocken
Signatur (90) and 2008 Chardonnay (90) from the same site that I ranked as his
best wines this year.
The talented Boris
Kranz in neighboring Ilbesheim also had another outstanding year. After 2007s that were better than anything I
had ever tasted here, the 2008s were perhaps even a tad better, culminating in
the 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Kalmit (91) and 2008 Riesling Spätlese
Trocken Kalmit Terrassen (93). Were he
from a better-known village, there would be a great deal more talk about his
wines. After a number of vintages that
were less than stellar, Gregor Messmer from Herbert Messmer (Terry Theise) in Burrweiler has bounced back with
excellent wines in both 2007 and 2008. I rated nine wines from the current line
up with 88 points and more, with the 2008 Burrweiler Schäwer Riesling Grosses
Gewächs (90), 2008 Chardonnay (91) and 2007 St. Laurent (90) being my
favorites. This house probably again
merits full coverage.
Kurt and Stephan Müller from Eugen Müller (Terry Theise) in Forst have always produced nice
wines at affordable prices. The 2008
Forster Freudenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87) is again well made, but I
had hoped that they would bottle a more impressive wine from their magnificent
Kirchenstück vineyard. Günter and Rainer Kessler from Münzberg
in Godramstein almost always bottle a few full-throttle wines. This year they were the 2008 Chardonnay (90)
and 2008 Godramsteiner Münzberg Schlangenpfiff Weisser Burgunder Grosses
Gewächs (90). If the entry-level wines
here were better, this estate would have a more avid following.
At the opposite end of the region, in the northern
Palatinate, Axel Neiss from Ludi Neiss (T. Edward Wines, New York, NY) in Kindenheim continues at a fine pace. His
2008 Bockenheimer Heiligenkirche Riesling Trocken (89) and 2008 Kindenheimer
Burgweg Riesling Trocken Premium (90) were both impressive this year. Karl Pfaffmann in Walsheim was
traditionally not so successful with riesling, but both his 2008 Nussdorfer
Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89) and 2008 Walsheimer Silberberg
Riesling Spätlese Trocken (91) were surprising this year. With their considerable volume and attractive
prices, it is odd that his wines are not more widely available.
Steffen and Andreas Rings are another pair of rising talents in the
northern part of the Palatinate. The
crop of 2008s was perhaps not as consistent across the board as the 2007s, but
the 2008 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Trocken (91) more than proves their
mettle.
Although 2008 was a touch
irregular everywhere, even lesser-known producers like Heiner Sauer in Böchingen also bottled a selection of above-average
wines, with the 2008 Nussdorfer Herrenberg Gewürztraminer Spätlese Trocken (89)
and, surprisingly, his 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (89) highlighting the potential of
this estate.
Karl Schaefer in Bad Dürkheim was long one of my favorite producers in the Pfalz. After lackluster performances over the past
few years, 2008 marks a return to previous glory. The 2008 Forster Pechstein
Riesling Grosses Gewächs (90) and 2008 Dürkheimer Michelsberg Riesling Grosses
Gewächs (91) spearheaded a line-up that also includes a well-made late-harvest
wine with residual sugar, the 2008 Dürkheimer Spielberg Riesling Spätlese
Schöne Anna (90). In the same
village, I also liked Egon Schmitt’s 2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Trocken Ausblick Gold Capsule (89).
Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt has now gone
far beyond his status as a newcomer and currently cultivates 120 acres of
vineyards at the northern end of the Mittelhaardt. Unusual names, a modern label and a
self-assured bearing are certainly part of the success story, but the wines
speak for themselves, as the 2008 Dürkheimer Nonnengarten Rielsing Trocken (90)
and 2006 Tailor (91), a red wine blend, amply prove.
Even further north, the Schumacher estate in Herxheimer am Berg
was again more than successful. My
favorite white was the 2008 Herxheimer Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese Trocken
Garten (89), but the true surprise this year was their 2007 Pinot Noir “RR”
(93) from the same site, which was one of the best red wines of the vintage.
Siegrist in Leinsweiler (Truly Fine Wine, San Diego, CA) is one of the “five friends”
[explain?? MARKETING INITIATIVE WITH REBHOLZ; BECKER; WEHRHEIM...] in the
southern Palatinate. His Leinsweiler
Sonnenberg Riesling Trocken (87) is always good, but the entry-level offerings
do not stand out among the numerous other aspiring estates. The just-released 2007 Chardonnay Spätlese
Trocken (90) was the best wine among
the 14 that I tasted here this year.
Since
son Markus joined the family business in 2007, the old Heinrich Spindler estate (Miskeit Wines, New York, NY) in Forst has
gone from strength to strength. After
surprisingly good 2007s, the pair again made a handful of excellent dry
rieslings this year, with the 2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Spätlese Trocken
(90) and 2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken (91) leading the
fray. Keep an eye on this producer.
Weather conditions have dealt Stefanie Weegmüller (Sussex Wine Merchants) in Haardt difficult
hands in several recent vintages. After
hail in 2006, 2008 was again against all odds. A RACE AGAINST THE MOTHER
NATURE?? She made little or no dry
spätlese as she normally would, with a 2008 Haardter Heerenletten Riesling
Kabinett Trocken (87) topping her riesling offerings. My favorite wine, though, was the 2008
Scheurebe Spätlese (89) from the same site.
Although Herbert Roth from Wilhelmshof in Siebeldingen is principally known in Germany for his
excellent sparkling wines made in the Champagne fashion, his dry still wines
from those same grapes can be impressive: witness the 2008 weissburgunder (89), 2008 grauburgunder (89) and 2007
spätburgunder (90), all from his Siebeldinger im Sonnenschein vineyards. Another young producer that I have been following is Jürgen Zimmermann in Wachenheim. Not only was his dry 2008 Wachenheimer
Gerümpel Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88) well made, he also understands
late-harvest wines, as his 2008 Wachenheimer Fuchsmantel Riesling Auslese (91)
and Gewürztraminer Spätlese (92) convincingly prove.
Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Deidesheim. Bassermann-Jordan
has certainly been one of the most consistent producers of fine dry rieslings
in all of Germany over the past decade. The budding renaissance of this venerable estate began just over ten
years ago when the last of the Bassermann line hired winemaker Ulrich Mell, who
immediately began breathing new life into the wines. Since 2002, the new owner Achim Niederberger
has invested heavily in both vineyards and cellars, which has permitted the
estate to regain its historic status. The Grosses Gewächs in 2008 are all not only topnotch, but markedly
better than the standard wines, which is not at all surprising in a difficult vintage
like 2008. It is odd, though, that so
few of the dry wines are on sale in the States. 2008 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??): Bright aromas of white peach, honeysuckle and
nutmeg. The pure, tropical fruit flavors
and velvety texture are nicely complemented by refreshing acidity. Rich, succulent and long on the aftertaste,
this riesling has the makings of a thoroughbred. 90. 2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??): Dried apricot, wild herbs and mineral salts
on the nose. The brothy peach fruit is cut
clean by the wine’s pungent, minerally acidity. Austere but impressive on the finish, this is a style I like to
drink. 91. 2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??): Inviting aromas of muskmelon, basil and fig. The sweet, glossy apricot fruit is kept
bright by chalky acidity. Crisp, clean
and spicy on the finish, with aristocratic length. May well gain in stature with bottle age. 91. 2008 Goldmuskateller
Eiswein ($??? for 375 ml.): Rich
golden yellow. Wild aromas of cling peach,
hazelnut and acacia blossom. The crisp,
sweet pear flavor is nicely juxtaposed with vibrant minerality. A lively spiciness animates the finish.
Well-defined and delicately balanced wine with superb depth and enthralling
length. 94. Also recommended: 2008
Weissburgunder Trocken “S” (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken “Probus” (86+?), 2008
Forster Herrgottsacker Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken
Auf der Mauer (87), 2008 Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling Grosses Gewächs
(91), 2008 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Forster
Jesuitengarten Riesling Auslese (88), 2008 Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling
Trockenbeerenauslese (91). Other
wines tasted: 2008 Chardonnay
Trocken “R”. (Valckenberg International, Tulsa,
OK)
Friedrich Becker, Schweigen. For the
seventh straight year, Fritz Becker has made not only Germany’s finest pinot
noir but three of its best red wines from 2007, arguably the greatest vintage
this estate has ever bottled. The only
other pinot noir producer in the country who can hold a candle to Fritz, as he
is called by friends, and his son of the same name, is Bernhard Huber from
Baden. In Germany itself, the top wine
below is the only one sold with the French name, pinot noir; all the rest are
labelled spätburgunder, which is the German word for the same variety. If you have never heard of this estate, buy
one of the Grosses Gewächs below and compare it blind with a 2007 grand cru
from Burgundy. You won’t be
disappointed. 2007 Pinot Noir “B” ($??): Ruby-red. Blackberry and candied cherry on the nose. Full-bodied, sweet berry fruit offers
pleasing depth and verve. Finishes with
ripe tannins and good length. 88. 2007
Schweigener Kammerberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs ($??): Full
red-ruby. Spicy aromas of raspberry, clove and vanilla.
Rich blackberry fruit caresses the palate, which remains elegant in spite of
the wine’s considerable depth. With its
distinctive personality, ripe tannins and impressive length, this is a show-stopper. 93. 2007 Schweigener
Sonnenberg Sankt Paul Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs ($??): Dark red. Complex aromas of black cherry, wild
strawberry and juniper. The unctuous
blackberry fruit and rich velvety texture flesh out the sweet tannins. A wine of sensuous depth, seamless and
extremely long on the finish. One of the
finest red wines of the vintage. 95. 2007 Pinot Noir ($??): Brilliant ruby. Sensuous aromas
of raspberry, chocolate and thyme. Elegantly concentrated and harmoniously balanced, with layers of wild
berry fruit and spicy complexity. The
lacy cinnamon quality and sleek tannins are reminiscent of Echezeaux. With its superb depth and exquisite length,
this is the finest pinot noir of the vintage and one of the best I have ever
tasted from Germany. 97. Also recommended: 2008 Muskateller (85), 2008 Riesling Laissez
Faire (87), 2008 Pinot Gris Kalkmergel (86), 2008 Pinot Blanc Kalkgestein (86),
2008 Pinot Blanc In der Enggasse (88), 2007 Pinot Blanc Halbstück (90), 2007
Chardonnay (93), 2007 Spätburgunder Kalkgestein (89), 2007 Spätburgunder
Herrschaftswingert (90), 2007 Spätburgunder Steinwingert (91), 2007
Spätburgunder Herrschaftswingert SL (92), 2007 Spätburgunder Reserve (94). Other wines tasted: 2008 Silvaner. (Rudi Wiest)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Deidesheim. Since this property’s purchase
by Achim Niederberger, who also owns Dr. Deinhard and Dr. Bassermann-Jordan,
the experienced team of Werner Sebastian in the vineyards and Michael Leibrecht
in the cellars have begun to resurrect this old estate’s reputation. Two thousand seven was the finest vintage I
had tasted here in ages. The 2008s are perhaps more delicate, and certainly
more refreshing, but do not have quite the depth of their predecessors. 2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken
Grosses Gewächs: Herbal aromas of apricot, bay leaf and mineral
salts. Taut pit fruit flavors are framed
by a chalky acidity and an almost salty finish. Still closed, but has the potential to develop gracefully. 89. 2008 Forster Ungeheuer
Riesling Grosses Gewächs: Apricot pit, quince and honeysuckle on the nose. Rich, juicy peach pit flavor enlivened by
bright citrus acidity. Compelling
riesling, and very nicely balanced on the long finish. My favorite dry riesling from this
cellar. 91. 2008
Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Beerenauslese ($?? for 375 ml.): 91.
Also recommended: 2008
Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Deidesheimer Kieselberg
Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken “FP Buhl” (88), 2008 Forster
Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad
Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88),2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs
(88), 2008 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese (88),2008 Forster Ungeheuer
Riesling Auslese (87), 2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Beerenauslese (90),
2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Beerenauslese (91). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken. (Rudi Wiest)
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Wachenheim. Since 1995
this estate has consistently produced some of the finest dry rieslings of any
given vintage in all of Germany, but never has it stood so far above its peers
as in 2008. Blessed with excellent
vineyards, the estate certainly stepped up to the plate with a large bat, but the
winemaking team has hedged its bets by actively embracing biodynamic
viticulture for almost a decade in order to allow each vineyard to express
itself more clearly. Although the estate
now presents its wines as Grosses Gewächs, it still uses its own labelling
system, with PC hinting at premier cru and GC at grand cru status. From the Gaisböhl GC they also release back
vintages to show how well these rieslings age, with 2007, 2003 and 1997
currently available in America. 2008 Ruppertsberger Hoheburg
Riesling Trocken PC ($??): Aromas of white peach,
persimmon and pine nuts. Refined apricot
fruit with a hint of smoked almonds and discreet minerality dominate the
palate. A touch old-fashioned in style,
but with pleasant length. 89. 2008 Wachenheimer Rechbächel Riesling
Trocken PC ($??): Slightly herbal
aromas of white peach, woodsmoke and mint. The palate features vibrant peach pit flavor and spicy minerality. Cool, minty finish shows good length. Still a bit closed. 90. 2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Trocken GC ($??): Succulent aromas of melon, clove and mineral
salts. The delicate, peachy fruit, salty
minerality and bright acidity are nicely interwoven on the palate. Well-balanced wine, with a savory finish that
brings nut oils and a sophisticated finesse into play. With its outstanding
length, this is one of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage. 94. 2008 Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling Trocken GC ($??): Ripe apricot, sweet herbs, hazelnut and lemon oil on
the seductive nose. The sleek but
glossy?? peach fruit is kept in check by an understated yet ever-present chalky
acidity. Rich in both depth and
elegance, and impressively long, this is another of the great dry rieslings of
the vintage. 94. 2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken GC ($??): Exotic aromas of yellow plum, tobacco, muskmelon,
brioche and lemon oil. Rich and creamy
in texture, with the impressive depth of peach pit flavor that’s typical of
this outstanding site. With expansive
clove spice on the finish and enormous length, this is the finest dry riesling
of the vintage and one of the greatest young rieslings I have ever tasted. 96. (THE HIGHEST SCORE I HAVE EVER
GIVEN FOR A DRY RIESLING)?? Also recommended: 2008 Riesling
Trocken (85), 2008 Ruppertsberger Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Wachenheimer Riesling
Trocken (86), 2008 Wachenheimer Böhlig Riesling Trocken “PC” (87), 2008
Wachenheimer Goldbächel Riesling Trocken “PC” (88), 2008 Deidesheimer
Langenmorgen Riesling Trocken “PC” (88), 2008 Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling
Trocken “PC” (90), 2008 Wachenheimer Altenburg Riesling Trocken “PC” (90), 2008
Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Trocken “GC” (92), 2008 Deidesheimer Kalkofen
Riesling Trocken “GC” (93), 2008 Forster Riesling Auslese (93). (Europvin USA, Van Nuys, CA)
A. Christmann, Gimmeldingen. Two thousand eight is arguably
Steffen Christmann’s best vintage since 2004—and as the president of the VDP he
sets his sights high. Knowing that his
late-harvest offerings can seldom compete with those produced on the Mosel, he
has decided to concentrate almost exclusively on dry wines, a discipline in
which the Pfalz excels. In particular,
his village rieslings from Gimmeldingen and Königsbach are well crafted and
offer good value for money. However, it
is confusing that these wines, which are essentially the second wines of his
Grosses Gewächs, are better and more expensive than secondary sites that he
still mentions on other wines. 2007
Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Aromas of lime and white pepper
with a floral topnote. The palate shows
a pithy texture, with a flavor of peach pit animated by juicy spiciness. Nicely balanced and succulent on the finish. 90. 2008 Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses
Gewächs ($??): Rich aromatic spices,
tropical fruits and a hint of smoke on the nose. The sweet peach fruit is nicely integrated
into the wine’s juicy texture. Salty
herbs linger on the palate. 90. 2008 Königsbacher Idig Riesling Spätlese
Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Smoky
aromas of peach pit, almond and clove. The ripe, crisp apricot fruits sit tightly on a salty, mineral
framework. The savory finish brings nut
oils and a sophisticated sense of finesse, not to mention excellent length. 92. Also
recommended: 2008 Weissburgunder Trocken “SC” (87), 2008
Gimmeldinger Riesling Trocken “SC” (87), 2008 Gimmeldinger Riesling Trocken
“SC” (87), 2008 Königsbacher Riesling Trocken “SC” (88), 2008 Gimmeldinger
Biengarten Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Königsbacher Ölberg Riesling Trocken
(87), 2008 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs (86), 2007 Spätburgunder “SC” (87), 2007
Königsbacher Ölberg Spätburgunder (87), 2007 Königsbacher Idig Spätburgunder
Grosses Gewächs (88). Other wines
tasted: 2008 Grauburgunder Trocken
“SC”, 2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Deidesheimer Riesling Trocken “SC”. (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY)
Dr. Deinhard, Deidesheim. This is the
latest jewel in the crown of Achim Niederberger, who already controls
Bassermann-Jordan and von Buhl. Where
those two estates have improved subtly and gradually since Neiderberger
purchased them, Dr. Deinhard is morphing both in style and design under Stephan
Attmann, the new high-octane managing director. After crisp, clean 2007s, which already signalled a sleeker profile, the
2008s are instead clearly marked by the new oak casks that have been
reintroduced for fermentation. This
unusual flavor will certainly recede in coming vintages, but the new “von
Winning” label for the finer dry rieslings is tantamount to a name change. With everything in movement, and the old
villa a construction site, I reserve judgment for the moment. That said, it is clear that this estate is
preparing itself to scale new heights. Keep an eye on developments here. 2008 Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Unusual aromas of white peach, resin and lemon
oil. Bright, penetrating pit fruit and
chalky minerality are nicely balanced by the juicy texture. Odd but stylish. 88. 2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Sage and a smoky earthiness on the nose. Glossy, dense apricot pit fruit with sweet
herbal inflections animate the palate. The wine’s opulence, depth and spicy juiciness ensure a pleasing
finish. 89. Also
recommended: 2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Kabinett
Trocken (86), 2008 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86),
2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2008 Ruppertsberger
Reiterpfad Riesling Trocken von Winning (87), 2008 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten
Riesling Trocken von Winning (88), 2008 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Trocken
Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Trocken Grosses
Gewächs (89). (Terry Theise)
Knipser, Laumersheim. Few estates in
Germany are so consistent across such a wide range of grape varieties and
styles as Johannishof in Laumersheim, a village on the northern cusp of the
Pfalz near Rheinhessen. Even their syrah
can be outstanding. Moreover, these
wines are not only released late, but also age gracefully. In fact, Werner and Volker Knipser are often
loath to present their young wines, knowing that they may be quite closed
compared to those of their neighbors. Given their almost cult following, though, they needn’t be worried.
2008 Laumersheimer Mandelberg
Steinbuckel Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Vibrant
aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and a hint of citrus. Lively apricot pit flavor and almost chalky
acidity provide this wine with excellent drive. In spite of its austerity, this riesling offers provocative depth and
excellent length. A sleeper with fine
potential. 92. 2007
Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Mergelweg Spätburgunder Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Bright
ruby. Fine aromas of sweet black cherry,
nutmeg and a hint of vanilla. The rich,
herbal blackberry fruit is luscious but held in check by a robust tannic
structure. Still quite closed, but the
long, firm finish promises excellent potential. 92. 2007 Grosskarlbacher
Burgweg Im Grossen Garten Spätburgunder Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Dark ruby. Withdrawn aromas of blackberry, wild herbs and
clove. Lush black cherry fruit, sweet
tannins and spicy balance rise SLOWLY above the compact depth CORE.???? Classically structured, this compelling wine
has very persistent, noble finish. 92. Also recommended: 2008 Weissburgunder & Chardonnay (86),
2007 Weissburgunder Auslese Trocken “KG” (91), 2008 Grauburgunder Spätlese
Trocken (87), 2004 Chardonnay Spätlese Trocken (92), 2008 Sauvignon Blanc
Kabinett Trocken (89), 2008 Laumersheimer Kapellenberg Riesling Kabinett
Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Kalkmergel (88), 2008 Dirmsteiner
Mandelpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs (92), 2008 Dirmsteiner Mandelpfad Riesling
Auslese (91), 2008 Dirmsteiner Mandelpfad Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94),
2008 Cabernet Rosé (85), 2007 Spätburgunder (87), 2007 Syrah (90), 2007 Syrah
“R” (94). (Magellan Wine Imports,
Centennial, CO)
Koehler-Ruprecht, Kallstadt. This estate has been on the
verge of being sold for some time now. In fact, I wrote erroneously last year that it had been, because Bernd
Philippi told me that the transaction would take place “by the end of the
month.” Even now, rumors have it that
there are buyers in waiting. In the
meantime, the owner is just as likely to be found in Portugal or South Africa,
where he also makes wine, as in the Pfalz. But it is clear that his heart still beats faster when he is “at
home.” After stunningly dense 2007s,
which he
claims are the finest dry rieslings he has ever made, the 2008s are more
intricate, almost delicate for the style of this estate. The two “new” 2007s recommended below will
not be released for another couple of years, at which time they will be crowned
by an as yet unnamed “A”. 2008
Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($??): Apple blossom, sweet smoke and persimmon on
the nose. A sweet peach pit flavor is
enhanced by chalky minerality. Densely packed and nicely balanced, with a
pleasing finish. 89. 2008 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken ($??): Herbal aromas of apricot, toasted almond and lemon
zest. The nicely polished peach flavor
and understated minerality are laced with smoky nut oils. Full-bodied yet graceful, this wine shows
poignant length. Perfectly
old-fashioned! 90. 2008 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken “R” ($??): Intense aromas of apricot pit, nutmeg and clove
oil. The exuberant peach flavor and
textural richness are driven by a salty minerality that lingers on the
finish. An unctuously rich, deep wine
with tantalizing spices and uncommon length. 91(+?). Also recommended: 2008
Kallstadter Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling
Auslese Trocken “R” (92) and 2007 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken
“RR” (93). DON’T UNDERSTAND THE QUESTION??
Philip Kuhn, Laumersheim. In little more than a decade
Philipp?? Kuhn has not only enlarged the family’s vineyard holdings to just
over 50 acres but has also taken quality to the forefront of the Pfalz. As Laumersheim was once considered the
backwater of the northern Pfalz, he has been spurred forward by his neighbor
Werner Knipser, who he now occasionally rivals in quality. His 2007s marked a definitive breakthrough;
the 2008s cement his position as one of the leading estates of the Pfalz. 2007 Grosskarlbacher Burgweg Im Grossen Garten
Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($???): Ripe aromas of white peach,
acacia blossom and lemon oil. Nicely
woven flavors of apricot pit, herbs and salty minerality. Alluringly deep riesling with a noble??
finish. 91. 2008 Laumersheimer Mandelberg Riesling
Trocken Alte Reben ($???): Heady aromas of papaya, smoked
meat and mineral salts. The juicy guava
fruit and vibrant acidity are nicely paired, and enveloped by the wine’s
luscious texture. Finishes with fine
balance and lingering brown spice flavors. 92. 2007 Laumersheimer Mandelberg Steinbuckel
Spätburgunder Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($???): Deep ruby. Succulent aromas of ripe plum, hazelnut and
smoked bacon. Sweet blackberry fruit
shows a velvety texture and is nicely framed by ripe tannins. Finishes suave and long. This is a surprising?? pinot noir from such a
young producer. 92. Also
recommended: 2008 Viognier (88), 2008 Sauvignon Blanc
(90), 2008 Laumersheimer Kapellenberg Riesling Trocken (87), 2008
Grosskarlbacher Burgweg Riesling Trocken (90), 2008 Laumersheimer Kirschgarten
Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Laumersheimer Steinbuckel Riesling Grosses
Gewächs (89), 2008 Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese (95), 2007 Frühburgunder
(87), 2007 Sankt Laurent (89), 2007 Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Spätburgunder
Grosses Gewächs (92). ??
Theo
Minges, Flemlingen. Theo Minges has been
remarkably consistent over the past few vintages, but where last year the dry
rieslings and even pinot noir were excellent, the gewürztraminer and rieslaner
are the highlights in 2008. 2008 Riesling
Spätlese Trocken Buntsandstein ($??): Subtle aromas
of peach pit and toasted almond. Compact
on the palate, with the juicy apricot fruit slow to surface. A subtle smokiness and salty minerality
combine for a discreet but pleasing finish. 88. 2008
Gewürztraminer Spätlese Rosenduft ($??): Golden yellow. Opulent aromas of rose petal, sweet smoke and
basil. The flavors of succulently sweet
papaya and Christmas spices are held together by a salty mineral frame. Finishes with unctuous depth and impressive
length. 91. 2008 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Rieslaner
Spätlese ($??): Ample aromas of apricot,
smoked meat and vanilla. Juicy melon and
sweet herb flavors dominate the creamy palate. At once unctuous and refreshing, this wine shows nice balance and
excellent length. Surprising!?? 92. Also
recommended: 2008 Grauburgunder
Spätlese Muschelkalk (87), 2008 Gleisweiler Hölle Riesling Spätlese Trocken
(87), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Kalkstein (91), 2008 Gleisweiler Hölle
Riesling Spätlese (86), 2007 Riesling Spätlese “Froschkönig” (88). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Scheurebe
Kabinett Trocken Kalkgestein, 2008 Weissburgunder Trocken, 2008 Burrweiler
Schlossgarten Muskateller Spätlese Trocken, 2008 Gleisweiler Hölle Riesling
Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Gleisweiler Hölle Riesling Kabinett. (Terry Theise)
Georg
Mosbacher, Forst. If I had to name one just village to
represent the Pfalz, it would certainly be Forst—not just for its touristic
charm, but more importantly for the quality of the wines. Many estates own vineyards on the hills above
the church, but Georg Mosbacher is the only truly famous estate to
have its cellars there. Always elegant
in style, these rieslings may sometimes appear a touch light, but all four
Grosses Gewächs were beyond reproach in 2008, with Pechstein again my
favorite. 2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese
Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Discreet aromas of white peach, persimmon and acacia
blossom. The pithy muskmelon fruit gives
way to a roughly hewn mineral character and spicy finish. Herbal notes in the lengthy aftertaste augur
well [why??] for the AGEING potential of this riesling. 90. 2008 Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??): Apricot skin, quince and lime blossom on the
nose. Fairly full-bodied tropical fruit
flavors with understated acidity lend depth to the wine. Nicely balanced riesling with a hint of nut
oil on the long finish. 91. 2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??): Ripe pear, honeysuckle and citrus rind on the
nose. Succulent passion fruit and tangy
acidity provide just the right balance. The alluringly long finish offers a refreshing spicy quality. This is my favorite dry riesling from this
cellar. 91. Also
recommended: 2008 Sauvignon
Blanc (85), 2008 Weissburgunder “SL“ (86), 2008 Gewürztraminer Spätlese Trocken
(86), 2008 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker
Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Forster Musenhang Riesling Kabinett
Trocken (86), 2008 Deidesheimer Leinhöhle Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2008
Forster Freudenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs (90). Other wines tasted: 2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese. (Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA)
Müller-Catoir,
Haardt. With his svelte, often reductive style of winemaking,
Martin Franzen’s wines tend to be finely chiseled. That can work splendidly with the finest dry
rieslings and noble late-harvest rieslaners, but the entry-level wines here can
often appear somewhat light and even austere. Where the vintage 2007 tended to mitigate those extremes, 2008
highlighted them. The simple wines
showed the cracks of a difficult year. However, not only was the Grosses Gewächs extremely elegant, the two
rieslaner TBAs were among the dozen finest wines of the vintage. 2008 Haardter Bürgergarten Breumel In den Mauern
Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs: Subdued
aromas of white peach, clove and mineral salts. Taut, spicy pit fruits and brilliant acidity make this riesling stand
out. Although ethereal in style, this
wine has depth, incredible length and excellent potential. 92. 2008 Haardter Bürgergarten
Riesling Spätlese: Spicy aromas of papaya and pineapple. The sweet tropical fruits are nicely
interwoven in the wine’s creamy texture, and there’s just enough acidity to
keep this wine fresh. Finishes with
pleasant length. 88. 2008 Haardter Mandelring
Scheurebe Spätlese: Pale golden yellow. Blackcurrant, peach preserves and mint on the
nose. The palate is dominated by general
candied apricot, with sweet herbs and an exotic spice component providing
freshness on the finish. 89. 2008
Haardter Bürgergarten Breumel In den Mauern Riesling Auslese ($?? for 375 ml.): Pale yellow. Luscious aromas of pineapple,
acacia honey and exotic spices. The
rich, creamy tropical fruit flavors are invigorated by bright, crisp acidity
that gives the wine a light touch in spite of its substantial weight. The long, complex finish boasts excellent
concentration. Impressive. 93. 2008 Gimmeldinger
Schlössel Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese ($?? for 375 ml.): Rich golden yellow. Extremely elegant
nose delivers candied passion fruit, quince and lemon oils highlighted by spicy
botrytis. Dense, velvety and honeyed on
the palate yet somehow almost ethereal, thanks to the lift provided by a
delicate, clove-driven minerality. The
highly complex finish of peach preserves, nuts oils and cinnamon boasts
incredible persistence. One of the
finest wines of the vintage, this rieslaner has enormous potential. 96. Also recommended: 2008 Haardter Herrenletten Weissburgunder Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008
Haardter Herrenletten Grauburgunder Spätlese Trocken (85), 2008 Haardter Bürgergarten
Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2008 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Spätlese (86),
2008 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Auslese (88), 2008 Haardter Burggarten Riesling
Auslese (90), 2008 Gimmeldinger Schlössel Rieslaner Beerenauslese (91), 2008
Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese (95). Other wines tasted: 2008 Weissburgunder Trocken “MC”, 2008
Riesling Trocken “MC”, 2008 Haardt Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Gimmeldingen
Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Mussbach Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Haardt
Scheurebe Trocken, 2008 Haardt Muskateller Trocken. (Terry Theise)
Pfeffingen, Bad Dürkheim. When I first moved to Germany more than 25 years ago,
this was one of my favorite producers. Since then, a major reconstruction of the vineyards meant that they were
long working with younger vines, so that only recently has this estate slowly
reemerged to its former prominence. Part
of that is certainly due to Jan Eymael, who joined his mother here in 2002. In any case, the past couple of vintages have
been excellent. Even the simple wines
here are of a high standard, and prices are more than fair across the
board. 2008 Ungsteiner
Herrenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs “M” ($??): Herbal aromas of pineapple, lemon rind and toasted
nuts. Pungent pit fruits and creamy
texture are set off by salty mineral notes. A spicy acidity lends vivacity to the seductive finish. Very good potential. 91. 2008 Ungsteiner Weilberg
Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??): Bright aromas of white peach,
roasted hazelnut and mineral salts. The
rich, unctuous tropical fruit flavors are finely counterpointed by a smoky
minerality that adds complexity. Dense
and pleasingly long, this wine offers excellent potential. 91. Also recommended: 2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Weissburgunder Grosses Gewächs “V” (90), 2008
Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken
(86), 2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2008 Riesling
Pfeffo (85), 2008 Scheurebe Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Scheurebe Spätlese
(87), 2008 Scheurebe Auslese (88), 2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe
Trockenbeerenauslese (92). (Rudi Wiest)
Ökonomierat
Rebholz, Siebeldingen. I consider the estate of Hans-Jörg Rebholz
to be the best in the Pfalz and one of the top dozen or so in Germany. Some cast a sidelong glance at this
assertion, in particular because Rebholz is not from the Mittelhardt, which has
traditionally been the region’s vinous heart. But not only does much of what he touches turn to gold, he excels in
many disciplines. He is certainly one of the top producers of sparkling wines;
he makes elegant weissburgunder, rich chardonnays and bracing rieslings; and
his taut pinot
noirs, which he only releases after several years of bottle aging, are always
at the head of their class. As his style
is a touch austere, the wines need time to unfold, and thus are not always
immediately accessible to the uninitiated, which is perhaps why he calls his
2008 Trockenbeerenauslese “Zeit und Geduld,” which means “time and patience” in
English. 2008 Chardonnay Spätlese
Trocken “R” ($??): Waxy aromas of
peach, smoked meat and toasted oak. Full-bodied, rich and spicy, but the mango flavor remains rather
unforthcoming due to the wine’s firm minerality. Densely concentrated and very long on the
finish, this austere chardonnay will only begin to open in a few years. Excellent potential. 94. 2008 Siebeldinger im Sonnenschein Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gewächs ($??): Delicate aromas of apricot skin,
clove and mineral salts. The taut, juicy
peach pit fruit vibrates with a refreshing acidity. Beautifully pure and dense, but still closed
and deceptively long, this pinot blanc was the best of its ilk?? [variety??
YES] in this vintage. 94. 2008 Siebeldinger Im Sonnenschein Gamshorn Riesling
Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Sensuous aromas of white
peach, hazelnut and lemon oil. The
bright, shimmering guava flavor and salty minerality come across as fresh and
lively. This seductive riesling finishes
with clear focus and impressive length. 92. 2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Spätlese
Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??): Herbal aromas
of peach pit, persimmon and mineral salts. Rich and dense in the mouth, with a flavor of apricot pit complicated by
a spicy saline minerality. With its
enormous depth, refreshing acidity and stunning length, this is one of the
finest dry rieslings of the vintage. 93. 2007
Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken Muschelkalk ($??): Bright ruby. Spicy aromas of
blackberry, smoked almond and gunflint. Juicy black cherry fruit shows a restrained elegance and noteworthy
distinction. Finishes with herbal
tannins and fine length. [anything more
in the way of VANILLA taste and ROUGH SILK textural descriptors??] 92. 2007 Siebeldinger im Sonnenschein Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken
Grosses Gewächs ($??): Dark
red. Spicy aromas of bing cherry, clove
and juniper. The gripping blackberry
fruit and velvety texture flesh offer the mid-palate stuffing to support the
wine’s herbal tannins. This sensuous
wine finishes seamless and long, and offers excellent potential for further
development in bottle. 93. Also
recommended: 2008 Muskateller
Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Grauer
Burgunder Spätlese Trocken “S” (87), 2008 Weisser Burgunder Spätlese Trocken
“S” (89), 2008 π-no
Spätlese Trocken “R” (91), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Buntsandstein (89),
2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken “Muschelkalk” (90), 2008 Riesling Spätlese
Trocken Vom Rotliegenden (91), 2008 Siebeldinger im Sonnenschein Riesling
Grosses Gewächs (91), 2008 Gewürztraminer Spätlese (87), 2008 Albersweiler Latt
Traminer Auslese (88), 2008 Trockenbeerenauslese Zeit und Geduld (96), 2007
Spätburgunder Trocken Tradition (88). (Rudi Wiest)
Siener,
Birkweiler. After making stellar 2007s,
Peter Siener has again called trumps (IN BRIDGE THE DECLARER CALLS TRUMPS)??
this year. Although 2008 was not an easy
ride, his entry-level offerings continue to improve and he shone with his single
vineyard selections, most of which were not harvested until early
November. Kastanienbusch is an excellent
site, but its varied soils run the gamut from Schiefer (slate) and
Buntsandstein (variegated sandstone) to Kalk (chalk), which is why Siener differentiates
them. Granted this can be confusing to
the uninitiated consumer, but it’s crystal clear to his fans. 2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Taschberg
Riesling Trocken ($??): Herbal aromas of white peach,
smoked almond and lemon oil. The intense
apricot pit fruit harmonizes nicely with bracing minerality. The long, enticing finish is dense and
pungently spicy. 91. 2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Schiefer
Riesling Trocken ($??): Spicy aromas of white peach,
toasted almond and wild herbs. The
polished star fruit and understated mineral flavors are nicely laced with smoky
nut oils. Full-bodied yet graceful, with
poignant length, this stunning dry riesling is one of the finest of the
vintage. 93. 2008 Birkweiler Mandelberg Kalkgestein
Weisser Burgunder Trocken ($??): Smoky aromas of dried apricot
and nutmeg, with a touch of bacon fat. Dense and creamy melon fruit fills the palate. Finishes full-bodied and surprisingly long,
with pleasing balance. 90. 2007
Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Bundsandstein Spätburgunder Trocken ($??): Bright ruby. Fine?? aromas of sweet black
cherry, nutmeg and vanilla. The rich velvety blackberry fruit displays a
luscious quality that’s held in check by a robust tannic structure. The long, firm finish promises excellent potential. 89. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling
Trocken Vom Buntsandstein (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken Vom Rotliegenden (90),
2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Trocken Terassenlage (89), 2008
Riesling Feinherb Vom Kalk (87), 2007 Birkweiler Spätburgunder (86). (Frances Rose Imports, Huntley, IL)
Weingut Faubel - Ullrichshof, Maikammer (THIS SHOULD
BE UNDER F APHABETICALLY). Gerd Faubel in
Maikammer has been making consistently good wines for many years but has
outdone himself over the past two vintages, excelling with dry riesling, pinot
blanc and pinot noir. In fact, even his
off-dry wines can be compelling. More important, the entry-level wines are not
only convincing but down to earth in price. Anyone who has visited the Jugenstil Ullrichshof villa, enjoyed the
Mediterranean flair, and tasted the wines is sure to return.
2008 Riesling
Spätlese Trocken Kostbar: Subtle aromas of peach skin,
beeswax and bay leaf. The ample apricot
flavor and polished texture are juxtaposed with a refreshing minerality. The full-bodied finish boasts surprising
length. 90. 2008 Weissburgunder Spätlese Trocken Kostbar ($??): Rich aromas of apricot, smoked meat and vanilla. Pithy, juicy melon fruit and creamy texture
dominate the palate. Ample yet
refreshing, this wine shows excellent balance and impressive length. 92. Also recommended: 2008 Maikammer Kirchenstück Weisser Burgunder
Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Maikammer Kapellenberg Weisser Burgunder Spätlese
Trocken (90), 2008 Maikammer Kapellenberg Grauer Burgunder Spätlese Trocken
(88), 2008 Maikammer Kapellenberg Grauer Burgunder Spätlese Trocken (90), 2008
Maikammer Heiligenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2008 Maikammer
Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90), 2008 Maikammer Herzog Riesling
Spätlese Feinherb (88), 2008 Maikammer Heiligenberg Riesling Beerenauslese
(90), 2007 Spätburgunder Kostbar (87). IN DISCUSSION ??
Dr. Heinz Wehrheim, Birkweiler. With Rebholz and Becker,
Karl-Heinz Wehrheim is at the cutting edge of new developments in the southern
neck of the Pfalz. Classically, his
specialty has been his pinot blanc, but his rieslings have improved markedly
and I again gave my highest marks in 2008 to his riesling from the Köppel site
within the great Kastanienbusch vineyard and a chardonnay that he names only
Keuper, a rock stratum that was deposited in the middle and late Triassic
period. Along with Muschelkalk (chalk)
and Buntsandstein (sandstone), it forms the German Trias Group (THIS IS
GEOLOGICAL TERMINOLOGY)??, a characteristic sequence that gave the Triassic its
name. Wehrheim distinguishes between the
three on his labels. 2008 Birkweiler
Mandelberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gewächs ($??): Subtle aromas of ripe pear, flint and vanilla. Velvety on the palate, with sweet peach fruit
laced with complex Indian spices. Rich
and long on the satisfying finish. 90. 2008 Chardonnay Keuper S ($???): Rich aromas of mango, nutmeg and
vanilla. The unctuous papaya flavor is
in lovely harmony with understated acidity. A stately earthiness leads to a serious finish. With its excellent depth and length, this is
one of the best wines of its kind in 2008. 92. 2008 Birkweiler
Kastanienbusch Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??): Discreet aromas of apricot, persimmon and acacia
blossom. The bracing muskmelon fruit
gives way to a mineral character and emerging spices on the back end. Finishes pleasantly long, with an herbal
quality. 90. 2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Köppel Riesling Grosses
Gewächs ($??): Pithy aromas of white peach,
hazelnut and lemon oils. The dense peach
fruit is held in check by chalky acidity. The creamy depth rises slowly?? on a long finish spiced by basil
leaf. 91. Also
recommended: 2008 Weisser Burgunder Muschelkalk S (87),
2008 Grauer Burgunder Keuper S (85), 2008 Riesling Trocken Bundsandstein (85),
2008 Riesling Trocken Bundsandstein S (87), 2008 Riesling Trocken Rotliegendes
S (89), 2006 Spätburgunder Buntsandstein (86), 2006 Spätburgunder Buntsandstein
S (87), 2006 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs (88). Other wines tasted: 2008 Silvaner Trocken Kammerer. (Magellan Wine Imports,
Centennial, CO)
J. L. Wolf Erben, Wachenheim. Given the fact that Ernie Loosen’s winemaker died just before harvest,
2008 turned out remarkably well. From
a cornucopia of excellent vineyard sites, he made compact wines with refreshing
complexity and moderate levels of alcohol at affordable prices. In terms of value, my preference is the
village riesling from Forst, which costs less than $10 a bottle in Germany. 2008 Wachenheimer Belz Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($??): White
peach and mint on the nose. Luscious but
firm flavors of bright star fruit and spicy minerality shape. The cool spicy finish offers pleasing length. 89. 2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($??): Exotic
aromas of apricot pit, muskmelon and lemon oil. Rich and dense in texture, with pleasing depth of peach pit and smoky
spice flavors typical of the site. Finishes with lingering notes of herbs and clove. 90. Also
recommended: 2008 Forster Riesling Trocken (87), 2008
Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Forster Jesuitengarten
Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87). Other
wines tasted: 2008 Grauburgunder Johann Ludwig Wolf, 2008
Grauburgunder Spätlese Alte Reben and 2008 Riesling Johann Ludwig Wolf. (Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR)
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