Germany 2008 First Draft

 

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco

 

After tasting well over a thousand Barolos and Barbarescos from the 2004 through 2007 vintages over the past two-plus years, and discussing these vintages in depth with a few dozen winemakers and other Piedmont insiders, I’ve reached the

 

Germany 2008

 

                In late autumn of 2008, few producers thought that the vintage would develop as well as it did.  While the general level of quality is not as homogeneous as 2007, the finest wines are of similar quality, if not better.  Given the wines' moderate alcohols, lively acidities and refreshing style, I actually prefer many of them to their predecessors, at least today.  Even the Grosses Gewächs in the Pfalz, which were often slightly overblown last year, are crisp, animated and more attractive than any vintage since 2004.  Whether they will mature as well as the 2007s or 2004s, though, remains to be seen.  Some estates, pushing credibility to its limit, speak of a cross between the bright acidity of 2001 and the pure fruit of 2002.  Given the acidity levels of the 2008s, 1996 is a comparison more often heard.

 

                Any winemaker who did not make good 2007s should probably change careers:  in terms of climate, it was a cake walk.  The 2008 growing season, on the other hand, was a roller coaster ride from start to finish.  Anyone who was not attentive, and especially those who harvested too early, made acceptable wines at best.  Far too many, though, were thin, acidic and even bitter.

 

                The 2008 growing season.  A cool spring followed a warm winter.  Both bud break and flowering, the latter often accompanied by rain, which decreased potential volume, occurred as much as two weeks later than usual.  Although the summer was warmer, it was accompanied by hefty rains, flooding, and in some areas devastating hail storms.  Only August was in any way normal.  On its heels followed a cool, moist September that forced the better estates to postpone the start of the harvest until well into October.  Most did not finish until mid-November—or, for those making eiswein, until December 30, when the temperatures finally fell to almost -10oC.

 

                As in other challenging vintages, quality was uneven from region to region and estate to estate—and even within the collection of a single producer.  Some wineries that made a stunning dry riesling or an excellent spätlese often had an entry-level wine or two that was, at most, sub-par.

 

                Even among the wines harvested as late as November, it was not a year for noble, botrytized rieslings.  Some estates made only dry wines and many made little or nothing beyond spätlese.  Even when they did, the ausleses were often not better than the spätleses or, sometimes, even the kabinetts.  As most Germans drink primarily dry wines today anyway, this was not a problem for the domestic market.  The export markets, HOWEVER, will certainly revel in the WIDE RANGE OF?? classical kabinetts made in 2008.

 

                In a nutshell, 2008 was NONETHELESS A POTENTIALLY GREAT?? year for the patients producers who knew how to take advantage of the idiosyncrasies of the vintage.  From the kabinetts on the Mosel to the Grosses Gewächs in the Pfalz, there were plenty of excellent wines, with kudos going to Molitor on the Mosel, Schäfer-Fröhlich on the Nahe, Leitz in the Rheingau, Keller in Rheinhessen and Bürklin-Wolf in the Pfalz for the most successful overall collections.

 

                I should note that there are a number of other German wine-growing regions that I do not cover here—in most cases due to the fact that the wines are little seen in America—that nevertheless deserve brief mention, especially as distribution is beginning to change.  We may see more of them in the future.

 

                Baden, the region on the eastern banks of the Rhine across from Alsace, is a good example.  With 40,000 acres of vineyards ranking it as Germany’s third-largest growing region, it is at the forefront of domestic demand, far more popular in Germany than the Mosel.  Here, estates like Hubert (Valckenberg) and Salwey (Rudi Wiest) both make exceptional dry wines.  In fact, Bernhard Huber made two of Germany’s best pinot noirs this year, with his 2007 Wildenstein (95) and Schlossberg (94) being my favorites.  Salwey also makes excellent pinots, but it was a 2007 Eichberg (94) from his neighbor Gleichenstein that surprised me the most.  The same estate also made a 2008 pinot gris from the Henkenberg (93) site that ranked among the ten best wines of its ilk in the vintage.  Equally important was the renaissance of old estates like those of Dr. Heger and Bercher that make Baden an entity not to be overlooked.

 

                In neighboring Württemberg, with its nearly 30,000 acres making it Germany’s fourth-largest growing area, the red wines have always merited the most attention.  Gert Aldinger again made the region’s best lemberger, the same grape that the Austrians call blaufränkisch, with his 2007 Fellbacher Lämmler Grosses Gewächs (92).  Rainer Schnaittmann (Rudi Wiest) took similar honors for pinot noir with his 2007 Simonroth “R” (91).

 

                Although it is the large wineries in Würzburg that are the best-known estates from Franken in export markets, the leading producer there today is Paul Fürst (Rudi Wiest) in Burgstadt, who this year shone both with his 2008 Pinot Blanc “R” (92) from the Centgrafenberg vineyard and his 2007 Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs Hunsruck (93) from the same site.  The other great estate in Franconia is that of Horst Sauer, who made the best dry silvaner (91) and riesling (91) there, both Grosses Gewächs from his Lump vineyard in Escherndorf.  With only 15,000 acres of vineyard this region is small, but it’s still larger than the Nahe, Rheingau or Mittelrhein.

 

                With only slightly more than 1,000 acres of vineyard area the Ahr is not only tiny but also one of Germany’s most northerly regions.  Global warming has made producing pinot noir on the steep, south-facing schist slopes SOMEWHAT LESS OF A CLIMATIC CHALLENGE?? and there are now four or five producers of note there, the most famous of whom is certainly Werner Näkel from Meyer-Näkel (Rudi Wiest) in Dernau.  My two favorite pinots noirs from the Ahr this year, though, were the 2007 Ahrtaler Rosenthal Grosses Gewächs (93) from Jean Stodden and the 2007 Walporzheimer Gärkammer Grosses Gewächs (93) from Adeneuer.

 

                In fact, 36% of Germany’s over 250,000 acres of vineyard are now planted with red varieties.  When I moved to Germany 25 years ago, that number was more like 10%, and most of that crop was used to make rosés.  Today almost all of the harvest is fermented to red wine.  With 30,000 acres of pinot noir, Germany cultivates one of the largest areas of this grape outside Burgundy, and some of it can be extremely good, as I have highlighted where appropriate.

 

                German grand cru.  Just how dry a riesling should be is a matter of contentious debate.  Many writers in America believe that wines with 25 to 40 (I DON’T UNDERSTAND YOUR QUESTION) ?? grams of residual sugar are not only more than dry enough, but also better reflect Germany’s winemaking tradition.  This might be true of spätlese; but at the cutting edge of dry riesling, with less than 9 grams of residual sugar, stand the German grands crus:  Grosses Gewächs. These are the wines that make headlines in Germany and the wines that most consumers drink when they go to the finest restaurants in the country.

 

                The same system applies not only for riesling, but for pinot gris, pinot blanc, silvaner and pinot noir as well.  As these (THE GROSSES GEWÄCHS) ?? are certainly Germany’s best dry wines, and dry or off-dry styles now account for about three-quarters of domestic consumption, American consumers should at least give them a try.

 

                German wine exports to the U.S.  Although German exports to America had risen dramatically over a number of years, the economic crisis and weak U.S. dollar have put brakes on that development.  The AMERICAN market?? [which one??] is now apparently adrift in pessimism (THIS IS A STATEMENT FROM TERRY THEISE).  It entered 2009 overstocked with unsold wines and is still working to deplete them.  This is why the segment below $20 or at most $30 is still relatively healthy:  those wines are consumed, not purchased to lay down.

 

                While Rudi Wiest, one of the foremost importers of German wines in America, expects his 2009 sales to be about what they were last year, the weakness of the dollar is a cause of major concern for the industry as a whole.  The big question many have, is what it will take to drive a German renaissance. Riesling certainly has its place, but Terry Theise notes that “although it’s better (RIESLING’S REPUTATION) ?? than it was, it’s still a variety more talked about than purchased.  I’d describe it as a solid niche market.” “Overcoming the misconceptions about riesling is challenging,” adds Sabrina Bochen of Truly Fine Wine in San Diego, “and it will take the support of the larger industry (HER QUOTE. I THINK SHE MEANS ALL PLAYERS ON THE AMERICAN MARKET) ?? to break down these stereotypes.”

 

                Although I’ve been impressed by the increasing number of dry rieslings being imported into the American market, I am not certain that they are moving as they do elsewhere—in particular in the Scandinavian markets, where they have overtaken French white wines as the benchmark both in price and volume.  Terry Theise, who beyond the Mosel has now upped the ante on dry rieslings, (HE HAS TWICE AS MANY DRY RIESLINGS AS ONLY TWO YEARS AGO) ?? concedes that his “actual sales lag seriously behind the number of offerings, which makes me think people like the sound of their own voices praising dry German rieslings, but when it’s time to actually pony up, well, oops, they spent the budget on a Paraguayan Carignan that just got 93 points somewhere or other.”

 

                German pinot noir, on the other hand, is still a curiosity.  Although writers like Jancis Robinson (ERIC ASIMOV JUST DID A TASTING IN NEW YORK A WEEK AGO OF ALL MY TOP 2007S AND WAS APPARENTLY BOWLED OVER) adore it, it remains unclear whether it will have a sustainable place in the market, whatever its quality, because it is too close to the paradigm of Burgundy in price.  If someone has $50 or more to spend on a European pinot noir, he or she is infinitely more likely to do so on Burgundy than on any of the unusual alternatives.

 

Mittelrhein

 

                After the extreme, often overripe 2006s and 2007s, 2008 on the Mittelrhein is an engaging flashback to a more classical vintage style, with all the good, bad and ugly that this entails.  The wines are not nearly as consistent as in 2007, nor was there much in the way of late noble rot, but there is an assortment of lively kabinetts, which is what most of us love to drink from this region.

 

                As the alcohol levels were lower and the acidities brighter than in either of the two previous vintages, there are only a handful of well-made dry wines, but both Florian Weingart and Jochen Ratzenberger proved that it was still possible to bottle small quantities of dry riesling that are among Germany’s finest.

 

                The higher must weights in 2007 led to larger volumes of off-dry rieslings, a discipline in which Matthias Müller remains the yardstick, but it was the tangy kabinetts and crisp spätleses that showed 2008 at its best.  Happily, the residual sugar in most of the wines is finely balanced with lively acidity so that they remain eminently drinkable.  Consumers in Germany, in any case, are looking to slightly drier styles and evidently like the equilibrium that feinherb (off-dry or only slightly sweet) rieslings offer.

 

                Only a handful of wines from the 25 other Mittelrhein estates that I tasted this year merit serious attention, but Thomas Perll and Jens Didinger are certainly the best among those not featured in full below.  Both have bounced back after one or two lackluster vintages.  In particular, Didinger’s Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken (88) and Riesling Spätlese (89), both from the Feuerlay site, merit mention—and cost almost nothing.  Most consumers, though, will see these wines only in his own little restaurant near the Rhine.  Given their attractive pricing (below $10 at the winery), they are worth trying if your holiday travels take you along this romantic stretch of the Rhine valley.

 

                With only around 460 hectares (1,150 acres) under vine, some two-thirds of which is riesling, the Mittelrhein is currently on few American buyers’ priority lists.  In Germany, Holland and Scandinavia, on the other hand, the region is being taken seriously by those looking for value, which these rieslings offer in spades and which might soon put the Mittelrhein back on people’s minds in the States.  If that happens, other producers like Friedrich Bastian, Dr. Randolf Kauer, Jörg Lanius, Joachim Lorenz and Peter Selt might receive more attention.

 

                The 2008s turned out better than I or most insiders in the region would have thought possible after the harvest last fall.  Two thousand nine has most producers in a state near ecstasy today.  Will the wines merit the soft (LEAVE OUT SOFT. I MEAN MERELY THAT THEY ARE NOT TRYING TO BOWL US OVER AS THE TOP ESTATES IN BORDEAUX ARE DOING) ?? hype they are already being given?

 

Toni Jost/Hahnenhof, Bacharach.  Two thousand eight turned out far better here than Peter Jost had first thought it might during harvest last year.  There are few stellar wines, but the entire collection is well-crafted and all the rieslings are refreshingly drinkable.  Given the balanced style and crisp acidity of the vintage, the kabinett and spätlese from the superb Hahn vineyard were my two favorites.  2008 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($??):  Aromas of apricot, melon and acacia blossom.  The palate offers ripe KIWI?? fruit with spicy minerality and refreshing acidity.  Just enough verve on the finish.  88.  2008 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Lively aromas of melon, lime and acacia blossom.  Juicy STAR?? fruit is perked up by spicy minerality and refreshing acidity.  Light, fresh and splashy on the finish.  87.  2008 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Apple blossom, guava and pear on the nose.  Crisp pear fruit shows just enough depth and a firm slap of minerality.  The wine’s residual sugar is nicely balanced on the spicy finish.  88.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Devon S (87), 2008 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Auslese (88), 2006 Bacharacher Hahn Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken (87).  (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY)

 

Matthias Muller, Boppard.  After his picture-perfect 2007s, most anything here would have been a sequel this year.  That said, Matthias Müller’s 2008s are, with those of Florian Weingart, the finest of the vintage on the Mittelrhein.  The wines have less alcohol, but they lack nothing in terms of flavor or complexity.  On the whole, the often difficult youthful aromas from spontaneous fermentation are not quite so wild as in previous vintages.  Again, the off-dry wines here are hard to beat, but in terms of value the Feurlay Riesling Spätlese was my favorite.  If I were an American importer, I would take a close look at this estate.

2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken ($??):  Elegant aromas of clementine, lime and pine nuts.  The subtle apricot fruit is nicely balanced by the spicy acidity on the palate.  Finishes persistent and refreshing.  88.  2008 Bopparder Hamm Mandelstein Riesling Spätlese Feinherb Edition MM ($??):  Subdued aromas of apricot, honeydew melon and acacia blossom.  Subtle lime fruit and bracing acidity work almost dry on the palate.  Clean, crisp and spicy on the long finish.  This was to be the Grosses Gewächs, but didn’t finish fermenting its sugar.  88.  2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Supple aromas of cling peach, passion fruit and ginger.  Light but surprisingly refreshing pear fruit gives way to mineral salts on the palate.  Displays nice balance on an elegantly sweet finish.  89.  2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Complex aromas of apricot, vanilla and a hint of brown spice botrytis.  The lively tropical fruit component is SO UNCTUOUS THAT IT?? belies the wine’s crisp acidity, giving it structure and depth.  Long and refined on the finish.  90.  Also recommended:  2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (85), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Mandelstein Riesling Halbtrocken “MM” (87). 2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Feinherb (85), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Feinherb Alte Reben (85), 2008 Riesling (86), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Riesling Beerenauslese (92).  (No importer)

 

Jochen Ratzenberger, Steeg.  Although the entire collection was well made, Jochen Ratzenberger obviously focused his attention on dry riesling in 2008.  His Grosses Gewächs from the Wolfshöhle vineyard was one of the finest from the Mittelrhein.  When drawing a comparison to 2007, he refers to his 2008s as “lighter and more classical in style,” but his kabinetts and spätleses were not quite as good as those of Peter Jost this year.  On the other hand, he was about the only vintner to produce an eiswein in 2008—and it is first-rate.  This estate also consistently makes an excellent sparkling riesling.  2008 Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Tightly focused aromas of pear, lime, sage and pine nuts.  Crisp apricot fruit displays refreshing acidity and solid mineral depth.  The ravishing finish shows exotic spices.  One of the best dry riesling from the vintage on the Mittelrhein.  90.  2008 Bacharacher Kloster Fürstental Riesling Eiswein ($??):  Golden yellow.  Candied pineapple, mincemeat and sweet lime on the nose.  Very pure on the palate, with crisp peach fruit spiked by bracing acidity.  Boasts succulent richness on the long, spicy and refreshing finish.  A true surprise for the vintage.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Steeger St. Jost Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2008 Steeger St. Jost Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Steeger St. Jost Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (85), 2008 Bacharacher Posten Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken (85), 2008 Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Spätlese (87).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Bacharacher Spätburgunder Trocken Blanc de Noirs.  (Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ)

 

Florian Weingart, Spay.  Although Matthias Müller now gives him a run for his money, Florian Weingart is clearly the leading producer from the Mittelrhein at present.  And he does everything well, from dry riesling through feinherb styles to mouthwatering kabinetts and spätleses.  He says that his German clients “find the drier rieslings more drinkable, but the kabinett should play well in the States, especially this year."  The 2008s here are much purer in style than they had been in the past, when high must weights, spontaneous fermentations and partial malolactic conversions made some of the wines appear overblown.  Given the small quantities produced, and the fact that the 2007 stopped fermenting with only 5.5% alcohol (not enough to be labelled as a wine), Weingart blended his 2007 and 2008 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (95) into a wine he named “7 & 8.”  An unusual practice, yes, but an excellent wine.  2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($??):  A cornucopia of orchard fruits on the nose, along with a sprig of spearmint.  Juicy nectarine flavor shows steely depth, with lively acidity framing the palate.  Crisp and refreshingly spicy on the finish.  An excellent dry riesling from the Mittelrhein.  90.  2008 Bopparder Hamm Riesling Kabinett Feinherb ($??):  Lively aromas of citrus fruits, clover and pine nuts.  Crisp pear fruit, zingy acidity and uplifting minerality on the palate, with just a hint of sweetness.  More fun to drink than particularly serious.  87.  2008 Schloss Fürstenberg Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Subtle aromas of pineapple, cinnamon and mirabelle.  Snappy peach fruit supported by refreshing acidity on the palate.  A lively and eminently quaffable riesling.  88.  2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Subtle aromas of peach, honeydew melon and lilac.  Elegant and harmonious, subtly juxtaposing ripe papaya and crisp acidity.  Refreshingly spicy on the aftertaste.  89.  Also recommended: 2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohligberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90), 2008 Riesling Halbtrocken (85), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Kabinett (88).  Other wines tasted:  Also tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken.  (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, New York)

 

Mosel

 

                After a string of unusual vintages in which must weights skyrocketed, 2008 marked a pleasing return to normalcy on the Mosel.  There were relatively few ausleses, much less the upward range of stickies, but that is not what the market is buying anyway—nor what you and I are drinking.

 

                In less ostentatious vintages like 2007, many of the kabinetts, and even most of the spatleses, were declassified auslese; but 2008 was much more classical.  Must weights were lower and acidities higher than in the previous vintages, a boon to consumers who are tired of the often overblown rieslings that the past few years have wrought.

 

                Due to global warming, the Mosel is no longer at the northern cusp of the metereologically possible for European grape growers.  There are now vineyards in the Netherlands, Denmark and Sweden that have that claim to fame, but nowhere is such a volume of perfectly balanced off-dry and delicately sweet riesling produced as on the Mosel, which over the past two decades, with perhaps the exception of 1991, has not really had a bad vintage.

 

                The problem that has arisen with the higher must weights (read potential alcohols) and lower acidities is that kabinetts and spätleses are richer than ever before.  And because the producers do not want the alcohol levels to rise too far, the finished wines sport far higher residual sugars.  This trend has often appealed to journalists, who felt they could recommend ausleses at the price of a kabinett, but it has seriously impaired the drinkability of many of these wines, at least in their youth.

 

                Interestingly, many estates that had turned to the dry or off-dry styles (Feinherb) have made more kabinetts and spätleses in 2008.  Without the must weights to balance the acidities, such wines are often awkward.  The best truly dry Mosel rieslings in 2008 are from Kesselstatt and Molitor, while in the off-dry category Heymann-Löwenstein remains the estate to beat.  From the Saar, though, he now has serious competition in van Volxem.

 

                The best values from the Mosel, however, continue to be found at the kabinett level, often from lesser-known producers who have done an excellent job in such a bright, classical vintage. In many cases there was only a marginal difference in ripeness between the kabinett and spätlese, with the estates choosing the predicate to apply to a given label based on their assessment of the wine’s inner character and what the market would bear.

 

                As my scores are generally conservative, a kabinett with 87 to 89 points is not only an excellent wine to drink, but given its lower residual sugar it tastes drier and can be more readily consumed in its youth.  My highest mark for a kabinett in 2008 was 92 points for Joh. Jos. Prum’s Wehlener Sonnenuhr, followed by equally fascinating wines from Molitor, Jos. Christoffel Jr., Adam (!), Willi Schaefer and Schloss Lieser.

 

                Similarly, the most thirst-quenching spätleses are those with 89 to 91 points that need only moderate cellaring before hitting the right balance.  Perhaps, as I wrote last year, I should be scoring these wines with 93, 94 or 95 points, as some of my colleagues do, but I have tried to avoid grade inflation.  Indeed, my highest mark for a spätlese this year was 94 points for the Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr #14 from Fritz Haag, with Schloss Lieser, Willi Schaefer and Vollenweider hard at his heels for top honors.

 

                In general, the ausleses, if they were made at all, were only marginally better than the spätleses from the same vineyard. Often, in fact, I thought the spätleses were more exciting.  More is not necessarily better.  Exceptions like those of Reinhold Haart, Fritz Haag, Clemens Busch, Joh. Jos. Prüm and Schloss Lieser only prove the rule.

 

                Fritz Haag, Schloss Lieser, Markus Molitor (!) and Joh. Jos. Prüm certainly had the best overall collections in 2008, but they were certainly not alone.  Clemens Busch, Willi Schäfer and Vollenweider also made impeccable wines, the latter two in a style that I have always liked to drink.  I tasted the wines from 171 estates on the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer over the course of the summer and fall.  Beyond the 22 estates from the middle stretches of the Mosel portrayed in full below, there are at least another two or three dozen that merit attention.  I have briefly portrayed most of these in alphabetical order below, highlighting a couple of their finer rieslings.  Of those latter producers, Becker-Steinhauer, Karl Erbes, Dr. Hermann and Weiser-Künstler are currently the most interesting and may soon receive full coverage.

 

                Karsten Becker from Becker-Steinhauer (Vineyard Research, Lunenberg, MA) in Mülheim is certainly not a household name in America, but his rise over the past few vintages has been surprising in the established pecking order on the Mosel.  Although he made two ausleses that were a touch richer, my favorite wines this year were the 2008 Veldenzer Carlserg Riesling Spätlese (89) and the 2008 Brauneberger-Juffer Riesling Spätlese (89), both of which offer excellent value.

 

                With 325 acres of choice vineyards and a total production of some 800,000 bottles, the Bischöfliche Weingüter in Trier is one of the largest estates on the Mosel.  For years, though, the enormous potential of their legendary sites was hardly tapped.  Over the past three vintages the quality has improved markedly.  My favorite of their rieslings in 2008 were the Ayler Kupp Spätlese (88) and Scharzhofberger Spätlese (89).

 

                Eva Clüsserath from Ansgar Clüsserath (Terry Theise) in Trittenheim is married to Philip Wittmann from Rheinhessen, which might explain why her dry wines are often the best produced here.  My top note in  2008 went to the Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Trocken (89).  As was the case last year, the off-dry 2008 Riesling Fährfels (89) from Gerhard Eifel at Clüsserath-Eifel in Trittenheim showed better even than his 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese (88).  On the whole, though, the 2008s at this estate were more animating (LIVELY, CRISP, FUN TO DRINK)?? than the 2007s, which was not the case for most producers.  Helmut Clüsserath from Clüsserath-Weiler in the same village not only also made an excellent off-dry Fahrfels (89) in 2008, but shone as well with a Spätlese (88), Auslese (89) and Eiswein (90) from his Apotheke vineyards.

 

                As he exports most of the 45,000 bottles he produces, Stefan Erbes from Karl Erbes (Winebow, Inc., New York, NY) in Ürzig remains relatively unknown in Germany, but that is changing as quality at his estate continues to mount.  From his flagship Würzgarten vineyard he bottled six exciting wines this year, including a Kabinett (88), Spätlese Kranklay (89), Auslese (90) and Eiswein (91).  This is an estate that I take very seriously and that may soon merit full coverage.  With the 2008 vintage, Franz-Josef Eifel in Trittenheim also appears to be back in form. I ejoyed the Alte Reben (88) from his Apotheke vineyards as well as an Auslese (89) and Eiswein (91) from the neighboring Altärchen site.

 

                The Neefer Frauenberg and Bremmer Calmont are the two steepest vineyards in all of Europe.  The most esteemed estate there?? [where?? ON THIS LITTLE KNOWN CURVE OF THE MOSEL] is that of Reinhold Franzen.  He does not use predicates like kabinett or spätlese and vinifies almost all of his rieslings to total dryness.  I marked the dry gold capsule bottlings from each site with 88 points this year.

 

                Marcus Haag from Willi Haag in Brauneberg is certainly not as well known as his distant cousin Oliver from Fritz Haag in the same village.  Both estates were once part of the Ferdinand Haag property, which was split in the early 1960s between the two sons.  Willi’s Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese (88) and Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (88) were the pinnacles of his 2008 collection.

 

                Long on value are the 2008 Piesporter Domherr Riesling Spätlese #13 (87) and even more so the 2008 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett (88) of Gerd Haart from Johann Haart (Winebow, Inc., New York, NY) in Piesport, whose wines are both consistently good and a bargain.  Although his dry and off-dry rieslings were not as convincing in 2008 as they were in 2007, the spätlese and auslese from Gernot Hain at Kurt Hain, also based in Piesport, were every bit as good as last year.  I liked both his 2008 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese (88) and the Auslese (89) from the same site.

 

                More consisent were the wines of Rudi Herman and son Christian from Dr. Hermann in Erden (Boutique Wines, Philadelphia, PA).  Long relatively unknown, this estate has charged to the forefront over the past few vintages.  In spite of what some would call their rather old-fashioned style, this is Mosel riesling at its best.  Although there was not a weak spot in the 2008 offering, spätlese and auslese remain their strong suits. The 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (88) and Erdener Treppchen Herzlay Riesling Spätlese (88) were both mouthwatering, with a 2008 Erdener PRÄLAT?? Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (90) and Treppchen Eiswein Gold Capsule (91) thrown in for good measure.

 

                Ernst-Josef and Werner Kees from Kees-Kieren in Graach made an excellent auction kabinett (87) from their Treppchen vineyards in Erden, although their spätlese was not any better.  The other auction wine, the 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese *** (91), was the highlight of the vintage at the estate.  The wines of Heribert Kerpen (Terry Theise) in Wehlen were again quite succulent, but they did not quite have the depth or finesse of previous vintages.  My favorites this year were his 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese * (87) and Auslese (88) from the same site.

 

                With few exceptions, the wines of Karl-Josef Loewen from Carl Loewen (Terry Theise) in Leiwein have become more consistent over the past few vintages.  The entry-level wines were perhaps more appealing in 2007, but the 2008 Thörnicher Ritsch Riesling Spätlese (89) and 2008 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Eiswein (91) were hard to beat this year.  Two thousand seven was one of the best vintages that Andreas Barth, also the winemaker at von Othegraven on the Saar, had ever produced at Lubentiushof (Frances Rose Imports, Huntley, IL) in Niederfell.  Although the quality level remains high in 2008, the newer collection of wines does not shine with quite the same intensity. My two favorite rieslings this year were the 2008 Feinherb Alte Reben (88) and the 2008 Kabinett (87), both from the Gans vineyard in Gondorf.

 

                Although Reil is a name few collectors know, the wines from Thorsten Melsheimer (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY) may soon put that village on the map.  Two thousand eight was perhaps not a vintage for the dry rieslings that are often Melsheimer’s strong suit, but the 2008 Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Riesling Spätlese Schaf (89) and Eiswein (93) from the same vineyard are solid proof of his talent.  Alfred Merkelbach (Terry Theise) in Ürzig has played a steady hand over the past two vintages, with his 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese #18 (88) being my call among this year’s wines.  The Auslese (87) from the same site was richer, but less pure in its fruit.  Markus Milz (Rudi Wiest) and his winemaker Thomas Hermes from Laurentiushof in Trittenheim generally make appealing wines for easy drinking.  In vintages like 1998 and 2005 they can claim higher ground, but the 2008 Trittenheimer Felsenkopf Riesling Spätlese (87) and 2008 Trittenheimer Leiterchen Riesling Spätlese (87) fall generally into the former category.

 

                Robert Eymael from Mönchhof (Rudi Wiest) in Ürzig has his own style.  In leaner vintages like 2008 the wines can be somewhat light and taut.  The 2008 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese (88) was the top of the bill this year, which speaks volumes for the rest of the lot. (IT WAS NOT SO GOOD. I MENTION THE ESTATE BECAUSE RUDI WIEST SELLS THEM)??  Martin Müllen in Traben-Trarbach has been much more consistent over the past few vintages.  Although Traben-Trarbach is better known as a tourist haven than it is for its fine wines, a stop here after a boat tour is well worth the time.  I liked his 2008 Trarbacher Hühnerberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken SF (88) and Feinherb 8.8 (88) from the same site.  On the delicately sweet side, his 2008 Kröver Paradies Riesling Spätlese * (88) was my favorite.

 

                Long known for their excellent off-dry rieslings, Klaus and Olivier Jüngling from Paulinshof (Monarchia Matt International, Armonk, NY) in Kesten did well over a wider range of wines this year.  Their Brauneberger Kammer Riesling Auslese Trocken (88) was one of the better?? [at 88 points?? YES. 88 AND UP ARE HIGH NOTES FOR DRY RIESLINGS FROM THE MOSEL] dry rieslings from the Mosel in 2008, their Spätlese Feinherb (88) from the same site an old favorite and the 2008 Brauneberger-Juffer Spätlese (90) the most animated of this year’s offerings.

 

                Stefan Pauly at Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler (Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL) in Kues has been on an upward curve for the past three or four vintages.  Although his dry and off-dry rieslings are not quite of the same quality in 2008, there were a number of classical spätleses and ausleses in this year’s line-up, with the 2008 Ürziger Goldwingert Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben (88) and 2008 Bernkasteler Alte Badstube am Doktorberg Riesling Auslese (90) being the most noble.

 

                Thomas and Claus-Martin Richter from Richard Richter are the third of the interesting estates in the village of Winningen (along with Heymann-Löwenstein and Reinhard and Beate Knebel) on the lower Mosel near its confluence with the Rhine.  The climate here has tended to favor dry and off-dry styles, as the 2008 Winninger Brückstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87) and Spätlese Feinherb (88) readily attest, but the stickies can also be excellent.

 

                Werner Rosch from Josef Rosch led a dry revolution among the then-young producers in Leiwen in the late ’80s, and he is still known and in some cases even revered for such rieslings.  (I much prefer them wet.)  His Riesling Spätlese (87) and Auslese (89) from the Apotheke vineyard in Trittenheim were my favorites this year.

 

                After an appealing collection last year, Stephan and Gerhard Studert from Studert-Prüm (Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL) were again on even keel in 2008, with their Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (88) being the benchmark for the vintage here.  Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch/Erben Müller-Burggraef, the other Thanisch estate, recently brought in Maximilian Ferger to resurrect their fortunes.  Already, the 2008s show this old estate on a new course.  They made two very pleasant kabinetts, but it was the 2008 Bernkastler ?? Graben Riesling Spätlese (88), 2008 Bernkastler?? Lay Riesling Spätlese (89) and 2008 Bernkastler?? Doctor Riesling Auslese (90) that sport the true colors of change. (ALL SHOULD HAVE AN L LIKE NOW)

 

                After a stunning TBA last year, Norbert Breit from Wegeler (Rudi Wiest) in Bernkastel made an elegant 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (88) and a richer 2008 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Spätlese (89).  As I wrote last year, if the entry-level wines were more consistent, this estate could merit full coverage.  With about eight acres of vineyard and a total production of only 12,000 bottles, the wines of Konstantin Weise and Alexander Künstler from Weiser-Künstler in Traben-Trarbach are certainly not widely available, but they are worth the detour.  Their core vineyard is the Ellergrub in Enkirch, which they purchased in 2006.  Still a terrassed site, it boasts 100-year-old vines planted on their own rootstock.  I rated six of the eight rieslings that I saw here at 88 points or higher—and all eight were good.  Try finding the 2008 Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Kabinett (89) or 2008 Enkircher Zeppwingert Riesling Spätlese (91) in order to have a taste of their style.  This could be one of the Mosel’s new stars.

 

A. J. Adam, Drohn.  Although he has for years been slowly resurrecting the Hofberg vineyard in Drohn, which on old Prussian maps was always colored as one of the finest sites on the Mosel, Andreas Adams only returned to his family estate in the spring of 2006 after finishing his studies in Geisenheim.  Even though he has since slightly enlarged his holdings and currently makes 18,000 bottles a year, you’ll have to search hard to find THE KABINETT BELOW?? kabinett.  One of the ten finest of its ilk in 2008, it is well worth the search—and it costs next to nothing.  2008 Drohner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Fresh bouquet of pear and apple blossom.  Delicately sweet on the palate, with a nice interplay of apricot and luscious citricity.  Lip-smacking elegance on the long finish.  An exemplary kabinett.  90.  2008 Drohner Hofberg Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Sweet floral aromas with a hint of raspberry.  Rich, juicy and persistently honeyed on the palate, which features a dominant flavor of cling peach.  The finish is soft and low-keyed, with peach and mineral salts.  Both pleasing and impressive.  90(+?).  Also recommended: 2008 Drohner Hofberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (88), 2008 Drohner Riesling (86), 2008 Drohner Hofberg Riesling (88), 2008 Drohner Hofberg Riesling Auslese (88).  (Terry Theise)

 

Clemens Busch, Pünderich.  Although Clemens Busch has only just begun to garner a modicum of international attention, he must now be reckoned among the top dozen or so stars of the Mosel.  Long an organic winery, his estate was admitted to the ranks of the VDP in 2007, shortly after turning to biodynamics four years ago.  His focus has long been on dry and off-dry rieslings, which are often some of the best produced on the Mosel, yet it has often been the noble sweet wines that truly set him apart.  He now releases some of his dry wines after a year or two in bottle, as previously these had frequently been perplexing in their youth—and more so than his kabinetts or spätleses. Two ausleses crown this year’s production.  2008 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Apricot pit and sweet lime on the nose. The bright tropical fruit flavors are nicely balanced by spicy acidity on the palate.  Persistently light and refreshing on the finish.  89.  2008 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule ($??):  Distinctive bouquet delivers passion fruit, pine nuts and clove.  Elegant peach fruit and a rich minerality provide enormous character.  Dense yet delicately spiced, this spätlese finishes with outsanding length.  92.  2008 Pündericher Marienburg Fahrlay Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Apricot preserves, orange and mango on the nose.  The unctuous peach fruitt and honeyed texture rise above the wine’s crisp acidity.  Rich, spicy and elegant on the finish.  94.  2008 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($??):  Golden yellow.  Distinguished aromas of pineapple, blackcurrant and nutmeg, with a hint of smoky botrytis.  The rich, buttery passion fruit flavor is nicely accentuated by saline minerality.  Pure, crisp and decidedly rich, with elegant concentration and impressive length.  One of the top ausleses of the vintage!  95.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Trocken Vom Grauen Schiefer (86), 2008 Pündericher Marienberg Fahrlay Riesling Trocken Terrassen (87), 2008 Pündericher Marienberg Fahrlay Riesling Trocken (88), 2008 Pündericher Marienberg Falkenlay Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Pündericher Marienberg Riesling Trocken Felsterrassen (90), 2008 Pündericher Marienberg Falkenlay Riesling Feinherb (89), 2008 Pündericher Marienberg Fahrlay Riesling Spätlese Auction Wine (91), 2008 Pündericher Marienburg Falkenlay Riesling Auslese (93), 2008 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Beerenauslese (94).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Pündericher Marienberg Riesling Feinherb Vom Roten Schiefer.   (Mosel Wine Merchants in Trier??)

 

Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, Ürzig.  After lackluster 2007s, the 2008s here show a bit more cheer.  The dry rieslings that this estate needs for the domestic market seldom win my accolades, and even the kabinetts and spätleses are not as brilliant as they were before Hans-Leo Christoffel leased his vineyards to Robert Eymael from Mönchhof, where the wines are now made.  2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese:  Attractive floral, apple and hazelnut aromas.  The delicate texture of peach fruit is nicely paired with an understated acidity.  Well-balanced but still somewhat withdrawn.  87.  2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese:  Pale golden yellow.  Rich bouquet of mango, pineapple and nut oil with a hit of honeyed botrytis.  Unctuous apricot fruit is complicated by an elegant minerality. Somewhat austere on the finish.  89.  Also recommended:  2008 Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (87).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Trocken, 2008 Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spätlese Trocken, 2008 Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Feinherb.  (Terry Theise)

 

Jos. Christoffel Jr., Ürzig.  With a total production of only about 20,000 bottles of year from some five acres of vineyards, the wines of Karl-Josef Christoffel are neither widely known nor seen, but they are certainly worth seeking out.  The wealth of older vintages still available at the estate attests to fact that he has been making fine rieslings for years.  Although the spätleses and ausleses are richer in flavor, the star of this year’s line-up is definitely the Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett, a beautiful expression of its vineyard’s character and very attractively priced.  2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett:  Bright aromas of pear, sweet herbs and lemon candy.  Glossy apricot pit flavor supported by harmonious mineral structure.  With its subtly sweet, persistent finish, this is one of the finest kabinetts of the vintage.  90.  2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese:  Peach, mango and a hint of honey on the nose.  The lush, sweet peach pit and subtle spice flavors are highlighted by underlying.  This well-balanced and extremely elegant wine finishes with appealing length.  91.  2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese **:  Pale golden yellow.  Pear preserves, honey and nut oils on the nose.  Very bright, ripe dried apricot fruit and insistent slate set the tone.  Finishes with sweet herbal spices and excellent length.  Very satisfying.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (90), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese (92).  (ImportANT Wines, Venice, FL; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR) 

 

Clüsserath-Weiler, Trittenheim.  The lion’s share of Helmut Clüsserath’s rieslings are made in a dry or off-dry style, and several of these turned out well in 2008, but the vintage seemed to call for a touch more residual sugar.  With the help of his daughter Verena, Clüsserath has expanded his production to 50,000 bottles and, more importantly, his wines have become considerably more consistent in quality.  2008 Riesling Feinherb Fahrfels ($??):  Inviting aromas of yellow plum, papaya and nut oils.  The creamy peach fruit and saline concentration provide nice depth, with vibrant mineral salts keeping the palate fresh.  A crisp and clean wine with fine potential.  89.  2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Tangerine and lemon candy on the nose.  Crisp and assertive on the palate, then rich and clean on the finish, with a note of slate.  88.  2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Mandarin orange, hazelnut and candied lemon on the nose.  Luscious white peach flavor is brightened by tangy citrus acidity.  Offers an appealing interplay of flavors, with brown spice and slate emerging on the finish.  89.  Also recommended:  2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (87), 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (87), 2008 Mehringer Zellerberg Riesling Feinherb Alte Reben (88), 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese ** (89), 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Eiswein (90).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett Feinherb.  (Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; Matt Brothers, Armonk, NY)

 

Grans-Fassian, Leiwen.  I’ve been critical of this estate for some time, but Gerhard Grans turned out a 2007 collection that worked nicely across the board.  His 2008 rieslings are perhaps even better, with the Trittenheimer Kabinett and Goldtröpchen Spätlese being my two favorites.  2008 Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Melon and lemongrass on the nose.  Succulent cherry pit and subtle slate underscore the palate.  A touch austere, but with an animated finish.  88.  2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Subtle bouquet of white peach, apple blossom and mint.  Soft and gentle, with sweet apricot fruit nicely balanced by ripe but understated acidity. Finishes with appealing length.  90.  2008 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Lively aromas of fresh apple, tropical fruit and nut oils.  The juicy papaya fruit and attractive depth are kept light by an invigorating acidity. Toasted nuts and a distinct slate accent refresh the long finish.  91.  2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Fruit-driven aromas of white peach and persimmon, lifted by a floral element.  Lush and velvety on the palate, with ripe apricot fruit nicely framed by flinty acidity.  Rich, spicy and persistent, if not as vibrant on the back end as the spätlese.  90.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Trocken Mineralschiefer (85), 2008 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spätlese Trocken “S” (86), 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (87), 2008 Drohn-Hofberger Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Riesling Feinherb Catherina (85). (Acadia Imports)??

 

Fritz Haag, Brauneberg.  Following breathtaking 2006s and crisp, pure 2007s, 2008 is another outstanding year here.  Although the latest vintage will certainly not be remembered as an auslese vintage on the Mosel, Oliver Haag bottled five different versions, all of exemplary quality.  Moreover, his kabinetts and spätleses were mouthwatering and even the dry rieslings, never the hallmark of this estate, are quite good, and the Grosses Gewächs first class.  Anyone who doubted that son Oliver would be able to follow in his father’s footsteps has been silenced by the past three vintages.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Bright aromas of white peach, quince and nutmeg.  Succulent apricot fruit lifted by tantalizing slate and invigorating acidity. Nicely balanced and long, this is a surprisingly fine dry wine from an austere vintage.  89.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Strawberry and lime oil on the nose.  Kiwi and nutmeg flavors enliven the palate.  Finishes crish and nicely balanced.  88.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Elegant aromas of cherry, apple blossom and hazelnut.  Sweet and creamy on the palate, tinged with herbs, nuts and vanilla.  Conveys a fine balance and a nice underlying sense of slate.  Finishes with excellent length.  91.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Subtle floral bouquet complements gooseberry and nut oil.  On the palate the creamy papaya fruit is counterpointed by citrus fruits and slate.  The persistent finish displays an amalgamation of spices and mineral salts.  90(+?).  2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese #14 (auction wine):  Enticing bouquet of wild strawberry, brown spices and woodsmoke. Candied lemon and ripe tropical fruits swell from the lusciously sweet texture and are given character and shape by the wine’s brilliant acidity. Rich and dense yet ethereal, this is one of the finest spätleses of the vintage.  Finishes with stunning length.  94.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ($??):  Golden yellow.  Ripe peach, mango and acacia honey waft over spicy botrytis on the nose.  Creamy and glossy, with tropical fruit flavors complicated by acacia honey and a sweet herbal note.  Remains, pure, shapely and slatey through the impressively long finish.  93.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction wine):  Golden yellow.  Flamboyantly rich aromas of pear preserves, wild honey and clove are embedded in smoky botrytis.  Rich and creamy, with a candied apricot flavor studded with lime peel—and brown spices thrown in for good measure.  This wonderfully elegant wine is certainly one of the finest ausleses of the vintage.  95.  Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Brauneberger Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Feinherb (86), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese (92), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #10 (93), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (94).  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Reinhold Haart, Piesport.  Two thousand five remains Theo Haart’s benchmark vintage, but the three following years have all had their charming qualities.  His dry rieslings are now regularly among the finest of the region and his kabinetts and spätleses from the Goldtröpchen site are hard to beat in terms of sheer drinkability.  Still, it is auslese from the same vineyard that was the ringer in this year’s collection, and certainly one of the finest wines of the vintage.  2008 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Kabinett Erste Lage ($??):  Apple blossom and sweet herbs on the nose.  The palate spotlights firm apricot pit flavor, offering an attractive balance of sweetness and acidity.  The elegant finish features persistent slate minerality.  88.  2008 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Spätlese Erste Lage ($??):  Delicate aromas of green apple, lemon oils and clover.  The kiwi flavor is light and lively but at the same time velvety on the palate.  Rose petal and saline minerality mingle on a crisp, well-balanced finish.  Very appealing.  90.  2008 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Auslese Erste Lage ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Exuberant aromas of orange blossom, vanilla and lemon candy wrapped in subdued botrytis.  Vanilla cream and mango flavors are supported by uplifting acids, giving this lush wine a firm structure and elegant viscosity.  [anything to say about the level of concentration/intensity of a 95-point wine??]  ALMOST ETHEREAL IN SPITE OF THE ENORMOUS CONCENTRATION OF FLAVORS, the extremely long finish refreshes with its spice character.  This very impressive wine is one of the great ausleses of the vintage.  95.  Also recommended:  2008 Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Piesporter Kreuzwingert Riesling Feinherb (88).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Piesporter Riesling Feinherb Haart to Heart.  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Heymann-Löwenstein, Winningen.  Reinhard Löwenstein’s 2007 were so good that anything in 2008 would appear to be a sequel.  The entry-level wines had so much depth and saline minerality last year that the single-vineyard offerings could hardly assert themselves.  The 2008s do not appear to have quite the same intrinsic quality, but certainly possess a more vibrant acidity.  In fact, the Kirchberg in Hatzenport, which had not always showed the same precision as the rieslings from the vineyards in Winningen, was just as lively this year.  With his colleague Van Volxem on the Saar, this is the producer who has understood just what great off-dry rieslings should taste like.  For most palates, the wines are more than dry enough—and pair well with food at a meal.  As always, the Rothlay spends 18 months on its lees before being bottled and released, which is why one 2007 is portrayed this year.  2008 Winninger Röttgen Riesling ($??):  White peach, nut oils and woodsmoke on the nose.  The apricot flavor is creamy yet brisk and lively.  Nicely balanced riesling with good depth and spicy minerality on the finish.  89.  2008 Winninger Uhlen Blaufüsser Lay Riesling ($??):  Bright aromas of wild peach, nut oils and wet stone.  Pungent apricot pit flavor with fine grip and an uplifting mineral finish.  Subtle and seductively long.  90.  2008 Winninger Uhlen Laubach Riesling ($??):  Unctuous bouquet of apricot, pine nuts and sweet lime.  Rich, almost oily peach skin flavor manages to come across as impressively bright and clear.  Offers a nice juxtaposition of restrained residual sugar, bracing acidity and tweaked?? minerality on the finish.  A rare breed.  91.  2007 Winninger Röttgen Roth Lay Riesling ($??):  Rich aromas of tropical fruit, persimmon and smoky spices.  Concentrated apricot fruit and compressed minerality animate the palate.  With its rich, dense and complex finish reminiscent of the Pfalz, this riesling is maturing nicely.  Impressive!  93.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Vom Blauen Schiefer (87), 2008 Riesling Schieferterrassen (88), 2008 Hatzenporter Kirchberg Riesling Erste Lage (90).  (Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA)

 

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Trier.  They have stunning vineyards in almost all of the well-known sites on the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer, yet it was Kesselstatt’s monopoly holdings in the Josephshof in Graach that brought forth the most distinguished wines in 2008.  That said, this collection was good from start to finish this year, which given their size makes them a safe bet for any consumer looking for fine German riesling.  Once quite focused on off-dry styles, Kesselstatt has placed more emphasis on Grosses Gewächs in recent years and certainly bottles more fine?? [TOP NOTCH synonym??] dry riesling than anyone else on the Mosel today.  More important, the kabinetts and spätleses from this estate have become extremely consistent as well.  2008 Josephshöfer Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Impressive aromas of white peach, pine nuts and lime oil. Glossy but elegant and quite full-bodied for the vintage, this dry riesling remains crisp and pure.  The clean finish features lime and discreet slate.  90.  2008 Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Pear, cherry pit and honeysuckle on the nose.  Offers a delicate NECTARINE FRUIT ON THE palate, with mouthwatering freshness, crisp minerality and an appealing finish.   Anything else on palate??  88.  2008 Scharzhofbergerger Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Lively floral aroma lifts fresh apricot and toasted almond.  Subtly creamy tropical fruit flavors show a delicate texture and tangy acidity.  Compact and spicy on the finish.  90.  2008 Josephshöfer Riesling Spätlese ($??):   Elegant bouquet of pear, honeysuckle and sweet spice.  Refined, ripe papaya FRUIT WITH VELVETY texture?? AND delicate minerality.  Very nicely balanced wine, with a crisp, animated length.  91.  Also recommended:  2008 Kaseler Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Eiswein Long Gold Capsule (92).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Graacher Riesling Trocken.  (Valkenberg)

 

Reinhard & Beate Knebel, Winningen.  The dry and off-dry rieslings with which this estate first built its reputation have not been quite as consistent since Reinhard Knebel’s suicide after the 2003 vintage.  However, the auslese and higher-predicate wines, although made in only minute quantities, remain excellent.  Two thousand eight saw not only a new and much more legible label for the wines, but also the entry of Beate Knebel’s oldest son into the affairs of the estate.  2008 Winninger Brückstück Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben ($??):  Supple bouquet of white peach, blackcurrant and mint.  Glossy apricot fruit is supported by understated acidity.  The satisfying finish shows an herbal aspect, along with a touch of slate.  88.  2008 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Aromas of tangerine and vanilla lifted by a floral element and a hint of brown spice botrytis. Creamy but elegant papaya fruit complicated by refreshing salts and toasted almond.  Attractive layers of sweet flavor linger on the long, nicely balanced finish.  92.  2008 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Beerenauslese ($??):  Golden yellow.  Exuberant aromas of white peach, roasted almond and lime peel on a bed of smoke botrytis.  Rich passion fruit flavors shows a honeyed texture and a decidedly saline minerality.  With its refreshing spice, ARISTOCRATIC BEARING AND pure finish??,  this wine is both majestic and promising—and in need of time in bottle.   94.  2008 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Eiswein ($??):  Pale golden yellow with a green tinge.  Intense aromas of black tea, orange rind and lemon oil.  The supple black cherry flavors are framed and enlivened by finely chiseled minerality.  Dense yet elegant, this is what eiswein should be!  Very impressive.  94.  Also recommended:  2008 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2008 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2008 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Spätlese Feinherb Alte Reben (87), 2008 Winninger Röttgen Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Winninger Brückstück Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (86).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Winninger Riesling Trocken.  (Dee Vine Wines)

 

Schloss Lieser, Lieser.  In a vintage that brought few ausleses and fewer still that are worth their price, Thomas Haag made five—and they are all first class.  His kabinetts and spätleses, though, were no less fascinating; and although I am still not a great fan of his dry wines, they were noticeably better than those he bottled last year.  This was certainly one of the best selections of wines on the Mosel this year.  If you haven’t heard of Lieser yet, take a look at the map.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($27):  Bright aromas of peach pit, lemon oil and clove.  Juicy kiwi fruit is nicely lifted by vibrant acidity and a floral element. Dense yet ethereal, with a pleasing spiciness and an appealing finish, this is one of the best kabinetts of the vintage.  89.  2008 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Fruit-driven aromas of apricot and quince, perked up by a floral element. The complex tropical fruit flavors are paired with a touch of licorice and a good shot of slate.  The fine balance of sweetness and acidity partly masks this wine’s impressive concentration.  Excellent length and potential here.  92.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (auction wine):  Lively aromas of nectarine, candied lemon and nut oils.  Elegant, spicy peach pit flavor displays impressive extract and saline acidity.  Finishes creamy and convincing, with brown spices lingering persistently.  An excellent spätlese!  93.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ($42):  Pale golden yellow.  Rich aromas of mango, passion fruit and clove.  Baked pineapple and glazed honey are kept in balance by an understated salinity.  Hints of caramel and brown spice add complexity to the long finish.  93.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction wine):  Bright, crisp nose is driven by candied peach, lemon oil and acacia honey, almost in spite of?? the brown spice botrytis.  The lusciously sweet tropical fruit palate maintains a remarkable delicacy in spite of the wine’s richness and depth.  The long, glossy finish is underscored by slate and a refined spiciness.  Few ausleses from the vintage have this much class.  Hats off!  94.  Also recommended:  2008 Schloss Lieser Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Lieser Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Schloss Lieser Riesling Feinherb (86), 2008 Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett (89), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (91), 2008 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese (92), 2008 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (92), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (92).  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel.  Few if any German producers are as well-known abroad as Ernie Loosen, who was even named Man of the Year by Decanter recently.  For his contributions to the worldwide renaissance of riesling on the international stage, and in particular German riesling, he more than merits that title.  Although 2008 is not flush with the stickies that he so enjoys making and selling, his kabinetts and spätleses are more enticing this year than were the 2007s—and the Grosses Gewächs from the Würzgarten site in Urzig is one of the best dry rieslings from the Mosel in 2008.  2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Apple blossom and smoked almond on the nose.  The apricot fruit shows a distinctly luscious quality but is firmed by a fine mineral edge.  The appealing finish features slate and allspice.  88.  2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Subtle bouquet of peach pit, cinnamon and lemon zest.  The elegant white peach fruit is decidedly light on the palate, highlighted by refreshing acidity.  Mineral salts accent the pleasing finish.  89.  2008 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Mango, clover and lemon oil on the nose.  Sleek and refined on the palate, with a juicy mouthwatering freshness.  Finishes gracefully, with tropical fruit, almonds and slate.  This very nicely balanced auslese still needs time to reveal its potential.  91.  2008 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($??): Golden yellow.  Scents of apple blossom, white raisin and quince are highlighted by a hint of spicy botrytis.  Luscious, candied fruit shows a velvety texture but an element of minty acidity keeps the palate fresh.  Dense yet light on its feet, with an element of mineral salts providing spice on the long, elegant finish.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Alte Reben Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Riesling Satyricus (85), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (88), 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese (89).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Riesling Trocken Blauschiefer.  (Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR)

 

Meulenhof, Erden.  Stefan Justen is one of the Mosel’s silent stars.  Not only has he brought his own Meulenhof out of anonymity over the past few vintages, he also makes the wines at the estate of Stephan Ehlen. This year those from Meulenhof take my nod.  At the head of a trio of succulent spätleses stands the old vines riesling from the Treppchen site.

2008 Erdener Prälat Riesling Spätlese:  Passion fruit and lemon candy on the nose.  More smoke and slate than pineapple and lime on the palate, but eminently refreshing.  Nicely concentrated wine, but still light and elegant on the appealing finish.  88.  2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben:  Subtle aromas of pineapple, redcurrant and honeysuckle.  Delicately rich and creamy papaya fruit,?? the palate has more the dynamic of citrus and toasted almonds.????  Elegant, nicely balanced and satisfying, with pure slate on the finish.  90.  Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Trocken Devonschiefer (85), 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (86),  2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese * (87).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Riesling Halbtrocken.  (Terry Theise)

 

Markus Molitor, Bernkastel-Wehlen.  I tasted only 31 wines from this estate this year, down from 47 last year.  Much of that drop, of course, has do with the lesser number of ausleses and higher-predicate wines from a vintage that at most estates ended with a pleasant spätlese or two.  All of the 2008s here were impressive, with over half receiving at least a 90-point rating and five appearing on my hit lists for the best wines of vintage, including a pinot noir.  Due to questions of availability, I have described only a handful of the wines, but listed them all under “also recommended” for your perusal.  What is doubly surprising at this level of quality is that Markus Molitor owns 100 acres of vineyards in more than 20 excellent sites and produces almost 300,000 bottles a year.  2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Trocken ($??):  Crisp aromas of pineapple, lemon oil and clove.  ALTHOUGH THE rich palate shows impressive peach FRUIT CONCENTRATION???, the drive remains sleek and FINELY CHISELLED?.  Finishes with a subtle toasted nuttiness.  This riesling still needs time; it’s hard to make a better dry riesling on the Mosel!  91.  2008 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese Feinherb ($??):  Yeasty aromas of wild peach, sweet herbs and nut oil.  Pungent, almost smoky apricot pit flavor shows riveting nerve and an uplifting minerality.  A subtle wine with a seductively long finish featuring a noe of toasted almond.  A great effort in the off-dry style.  91.

2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Feinherb ($??):  Pale golden yellow with a greenish tinge.  Rich, smoky aromas of yellow plum, quince and sweet herbs.  Unctuous apricot fruit is complemented and lifted by a bright, salty minerality.  Juicy and generous yet quite crisp on the persistent finish.  This unique wines is one of the finest off-dry rieslings of the vintage.  91(+?).  2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Brisk aromas of cherry blossom, lemon zest and wild herbs.  Although almost overladen with sweet peachy fruit, it snaps to attention with crisp salted apple and distinctive slate.  With its juicy, mineral-driven finish, this is one of the great kabinetts of the vintage.  90.  2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Exuberant aromas of white peach, lemon candy and pine nut.  Glossy apricot fruit is complicated by a note of toasted almond and sparked by slate.  With its impressive depth and excellent length, this is one of my top three kabinetts of the vintage.  90(+?).  2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Fruit-driven aromas of apricot pit and quince, lifted by a floral element.  The palate offers a rich, satiny texture, with fine supporting acids framing the white peach flavor.  Juicy mineral salts and nut oils join the slate on the appealing finish.  91.  2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese  ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Discreet bouquet of apple blossom, candied lemon and clover.  Sleek and refined, with the apricot pit flavor retaining a juicy, mouthwatering freshness. Finishes strong and succulent, with complex notes of slate, tropical fruits and toasted almonds.  One of great ausleses of the vintage.   94(+?).  2007 Graacher Himmelreich Spätburgunder  ($??):  Deep, brilliant ruby.  Subtle aromas of smoked plum, spicecake and licorice.  Finely balanced in spite of its rich concentration and superb depth, offering layers of wild berry fruit and spices.  The exquisitely long, ripely tannic finish is spiked by a clove element.  Who would ever have thought that a pinot noir like this could be produced on the Mosel?  94.  Also recommended:  2008 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Saar Riesling Alte Reben Trocken (87), 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett Trocken (88), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Trocken Cask 6 (90), 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90), 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Trocken (91), 2008 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (87), 2008 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (87), 2008 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (90), 2008 Niederminninger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (90), 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (90), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Auction Wine (92), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese  (92), 2007 Brauneberger Klostergarten Pinot Noir  (89), 2007 Brauneberger Klostergarten Pinot Noir  (91), 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Pinot Noir  (94).  (Wein-Bauer, Inc., Franklin Park, IL)

 

Joh. Jos. Prüm, Wehlen.  I must confess that if I were only allowed to take one bottle of German riesling to that proverbial desert island, it might well be a kabinett from Dr. Manfred Prüm.  Although the 2008 vintage was more classical in character than its predecessors, he still considers it BASICALLY a “kabinett, AT MOST a spätlese year.” [logic??]   But he nonetheless made a cornucopia of ausleses in his own inimitable style.  Still, the 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is one of the great wines of the vintage.  2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett:  Subtle floral aromas of peach skin and acacia blossom.  Bright, slightly tart apple fruit shows a refreshing, persistent acidity.  An invigorating, elegantly balanced wine with persistent slate on an appealing finish.  90. 

2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett:  Succulent aromas of cherry, apple blossom and sweet herbs.  Firm apricot pit fruit, but with a REFRESHING ACIDIC BOUNCE, frames the palate. [something missing??]  The elegant finish features persistent slatey minerality.  My candidate for the kabinett of the vintage.  92.  2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Apricot pit, lime zest and clove on the nose.  The delicate nectarine fruit and creamy texture are held aloft by nutmeg and mineral salts.  Finishes bright, lively and satisfying, with a spicy character provided by the slate.  91.  2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Crisp aromas of passion fruit, nut oils and cinnamon.  Rich, sleek and invigorating, with the creamy tropical fruit flavors nonetheless remaining light and ethereal.  Well-balanced, elegant and impeccably long.  92.  2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (auction wine):  Fruit-driven aromas of white peach and apricot, lifted by a floral element and a hint of spicy botrytis.  The rich, creamy, sweet tropical fruits and bracing minerality provide an excellent framework ON THE PALATE (remove: for the complexity.???)  An auslese in its depth, concentration AND COMPLEXITY, this spätlese remains bright and vibrant on its long, spicy finish.  One of the stars of the vintage.  93.  2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Lively aromas of peach pit, honeysuckle and candied lemon.  Bright and spicy, but with a creamy, velvety quality contributed by the sweet, plush papaya fruit.  Herbal essences heighten the pleasing finish.  Not a show reserve (NOT TRYING TO BE OVER THE TOP) ??, but a lovely auslese.  92.  2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction wine):  Pale golden yellow.  Heady aromas of strawberry and nut oils, with only a gentle hint of smoky botrytis.  A white peach fruit essence and mineral salts animate the creamily rich yet delicate palate.  More concentrated than the other ausleses at this address and with a distinct MOSEL personality, ?? [explain??] this impressive wine is one of the finest ausleses of the vintage.  94.  Also recommended:  2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (87), 2008 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese (90), 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese (91), 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (92), 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule Auction Wine (92).  (Various importers, including Valkenberg and Rudi Wiest)

 

Max Ferdinand Richter, Mülheim.  Although 2008 is not quite as brilliant as either 2007 or 2005, Dr. Dirk Richter again put his best foot forward this year.  I still tend to avoid the dry rieslings here, but the kabinetts can be mouthwatering, with the Elisenberg from the little-known village of Veldenz being my favorite in 2008.  For spätlese and auslese, the Juffer-Sonneruhr site brought the best results.  2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Strawberry and lemon oil on the nose.  On the palate, a smoky minerality enlivens creamy apricot fruit.  Well-balanced and appealing.  88.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Quince, licorice and acacia blossom dominate the bouquet.   Beyond the creamy peach flavor a tantalizing acidity provides clarity and purity on the satisfying finish.  89.  2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Aromas of pear nectar, mint and sassafras.  The decidedly creamy yet delicate palate is marked by apricot, brown spices and mineral salts.  In spite of its alluring sweetness, this auslese finishes with a lipsmacking freshness.  90.  Also recommended:  2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Mülheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Kabinett (87).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Classic, 2008 Mülheimer Sonnenlay Johannisberg Riesling Auslese Trocken, 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85).  (Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; Mike Shaw?? Scarsdale, NY)

 

Sankt Urbanshof, Leiwen.  If anything, Nik Weiss has done an even better job in 2008 than he did in 2007.  Even the simple wines, which have sometimes lacked character, were spot on this year.  Given the total annual production of 250,000 bottles at this estate, that is an important message for any consumer looking for a reliable label.  In particular, the off-dry rieslings were classically balanced and a string of succulent spätleses eminently drinkable.  Like last year, they are all in a more classical (HE HAD TENDED TO GO TOWARDS OPULENCE BUT IS NOW MORE RESTRAINED) ?? style, this time dictated by the vintage.  Further, his simple estate riesling at 86 points remains a steal.  2008 Saarfeilser Riesling Spätlese Feinherb ($??):   Lively aromas of apricot, lemon oil and mint.  The palate is animated by bright peach pit flavor and bracing acidity.  A crisp, clean, pleasingly off-dry riesling with attractive spiciness on the persistent finish.  89.  2008 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spätlese Feinherb ($??):  Yellow plum, licorice and brown spices on the nose.  Fresh and concentrated, with creamy (JUICY BETTER THAN CREAMY) star FRUIT ?? depth and vibrant mineral salts keeping the palate fresh.  Still youthfully closed, but offers good potential.  89.  2008 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Peach pit, lime oil and clove on the nose.  Elegant passion fruit is given a juicy quality by vibrant acidity.  At once glossy and crisp, finishing with an enticing spiciness, this is a lovely kabinett.  89.  2008 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese #16 ($??):  Apricot, quince and persimmon dominate the bouquet.  The smoky, wet stone minerality keeps the sweet, ripe peach flavor in check.  Finishes long and complex, with a hint of slate.  91.  2008 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Candied apricot, clove and a touch of smoky botrytis on the nose.  On the palate, a creamy nectarine flavor is nicely accentuated by salty minerality.  A rich and subtly complex wine with a finish that's still somewhat closed.  91.  2008 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese ($??):  Rich golden yellow.  Striking aromas of white peach, lemon oil and woodsmoke over a bed of honeyed botrytis.  Candied glazed apricot laced with vanilla animate the palate.  Finishes crisp, vibrant and clean, with a persistent spiciness.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Wiltinger Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (87), 2008 Mehringer Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (88), 2008 Riesling (85), 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (87), 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Saarfeilser Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Spätlese Auction Wine (91), 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Eiswein (91).  (H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY)

 

Willi Schaefer, Graach.  Although the 2007s were about as good as anything I can ever remember tasting here, Willi Schaefer needn’t hide his face in 2008.  The vintage brought a wide range of light, vibrant rieslings IN HIS (a category?? that works perfectly with his) OWN ethereal style.  A sensuous kabinett and a thought-provoking (SERIOUS) ?? spätlese, both from the Domprobst site, were two of the finest wines of the vintage.  2008 Graacher Domprobast Riesling Kabinett:  Apple blossom, lemon oil and acacia blossom on the nose.  The palate shows a subtle raspberry flavor, along with an herbal mineral edge.  Nice slate on the crisp finish.  89.  2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5:  Effusive aroma of black cherries, passion fruit and lemon oil.  In the mouth, a hint of nutmeg enlivens flavors of vanilla custard studded with tropical fruits.  Boasts a luscious texture, but this excellent spätlese's pure, salty minerality gives it a long and dynamic finish.  92.  2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese:  Pale golden yellow.  Pear, peppermint and vanilla on the seductive nose.  Glazed apricot and honey make for a luscious texture, with bright acidity and insistent slate providing lift and cut.  At once luxuriant and elegant, finishing with excellent spicy length.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Graacher Riesling Feinherb (86), 2008 Riesling (87), 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (87), 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #6 Auction Wine (93), 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese Auction Wine (93).  (Terry Theise)

 

Selbach-Oster, Zeltingen.  Although its dry wines are quite austere, this estate’s 2008 line-up from kabinett to auslese is arguably better than its 2007s—and I have yet to taste one or two of the late-bottled spätleses that Selbach-Oster has just released.  In any case, are all crisp, elegant wines that are fun to drink without any loss of seriousness.  That is very important for Johannes Selbach.  As owner, winemaker and export manager, he spends more time in foreign markets than most German producers and understands what consumers really enjoy:  not show reserves but a refreshing glass of riesling that calls for a refill.  Like Ernie Loosen’s Dr. L, his fish label under the JH Selbach brand is a good introduction to German wine.  2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Passion fruit and lemon candy on the nose.  On the palate, flavors of slate, pineapple and lime are pure and refreshing.  A light, elegant and appealing kabinett.  88.  2008 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Lovely floral, peach and hazelnut aromas. The palate offers a delicate apricot flavor, but with a bracing citrus character. Finishes nicely with slate, lemon oil and a hint of clove.  89.  2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese:  Enticing aromas of pineapple and peach, plus a hint of vanilla.  The luscious papaya fruit rides on an elegant framework of acids and slate.  Delicate but nicely concentrated wine with toasted hazelnut on a long, vibrant finish.  Very refreshing.  90.  2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese:  Discreet aromas of white peach, quince and mint.  Rich, juicy apricot fruit is in delicate balance with understated acidity.  Creamy lemon curd and salty minerality mingle on the long finish.  91.  2008 Zeltinger Schlossberg Rothlay Riesling Spätlese Schmitt:  Pale golden yellow.  Rich bouquet of candied apricot, ginger and nut oil.  The rich, juicy pineapple fruit and crisp slate give definition and nerve to the subtle, creamy texture.  This beautifully balanced and very promising wine features a long and seductive finish.  92.  2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Eiswein:  Pale golden yellow with a green tinge.  Crisp bouquet of mango, lemon candy and pine nuts.  Glazed apricot and honey flavors are fine-grained and glyceral yet at the same time refreshing, buoyant and very pure.  Crisp slate accents dominate the long, bright finish.  92(+?).  Also recommended:  2008 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (92).  (Terry Theise)

 

Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch, Bernkastel-Kues.  Sofia Thanisch-Spier and Olaf Kaufmann have taught this old estate to dance again over the past decade, with the elegantly poised kabinett and supple spätlese from the famous Doktor vineyard the apogee of their production.  That said, I was highly impressed by the simple estate riesling in 2008:  lots of wine for only $20.  In fact, there was nary a misstep in the current line-up.  2008 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Kabinett:  Fresh bouquet of pear and apple blossom.  Delicately sweet on the palate, with an attractive interplay of apricot and luscious citricity.  The appealing finish features lipsmacking elegance.  88.  2008 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Spätlese:  Bright aromas of fresh apple, star fruit and nut oil.  Supple and rich, but with a distinct delicacy to its papaya fruit, this spätlese is kept alive by its brisk acidity.  The spicy finish features clear, refreshing slate character.  90.  Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008 Riesling (86), 2008 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese (87+?), 2008 Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Auslese (89).  (Numerous importers, including Valckenberg and Slocum & Sons)

 

Vollenweider, Traben-Trarbach.  After picture-book 2007s that ran the gamut from a salty kabinett to a sumptuous TBA, Daniel Vollenweider’s 2008 rieslings are lighter and more elegant but equally enchanting.  Everything from the off-dry spätlese through the kabinett to the impressive subsite Reiler are just as they should be.  Isn’t it odd that a journeyman?? [need a better word; this connotes a merely routine level of competence] IMMIGRANT from Switzerland has done more to ensure that the steep, old terraces above the Mosel in Wolf, Kröv and Traben-Trarbach are maintained than any German born and raised there?  2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese Feinherb ($??):  Savory aromas of apricot, blackberry and smoke.  Dense berry fruit is given shape and verve by a finely polished minerality.  Rich, elegant and spicy on the persistent, only slightly sweet finish.  89.  2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Crisp bouquet of white peach, lime oil and sweet herbs.  Bright kiwi fruit is nicely balanced by lively acidity.  Elegant and appealing.  89.  2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Subtle aromas of lichee, lemon oil and pine nuts.  Luscious tropical fruit flavors complicated by a smoky nuance that adds a piquant quality.  In spite of the wine's depth, subtle acidity brings spice and a feminine character to the finish.  90.  2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Subtle bouquet of pineapple, nut oil and lemon zest.  The luscious yet crisp papaya fruit is brightened by a refreshing mineral character.  Deceptively light and wonderfully drinkable.  A charming riesling with a rich sweet/salty finish.  91.  2007 (2008 not 2007 )?? Wolfer Goldgrube Reiler Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Mesmerizing aromas of papaya, sweet herbs and lime oil.  A discreet yet intense cherry fruit flavor rises from the palate accompanied by brilliant acidity.  This vibrant, spicy wine boasts a riveting finish.  A most impressive spätlese.  93.  Also recommended:  2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Auslese (91).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Feinherb.  (Vineyard Research, Wellesley, MA; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR)

 

Saar

 

                According to Egon Müller, 2008 was a classical kabinett vintage without excessive ripeness.  Few of the wines are the liquid botrytis gold that many consumers hold in awe, but most are rieslings that many of us love to drink, and that had been lacking in recent years like 2006, 2005 and 2003.  However, as in 2007, there were also a bevy of refreshing spätleses and, although scarce, a handful of elegant ausleses.

 

                Flowering occurred early, resulting in a long vegetative period for the grapes, which certainly contributed to the aromatic complexity of the finest wines.  From then on, though, the weather was touch-and-go, with sun and rain alternating throughout the fall.  The harvest was long for those seeking optimal ripeness and complexity, often lasting into mid-November. EVEN THEN, only THOSE growers who sorted carefully?? [what does this have to do with the length of the harvest??] in the vineyards and later in the cellar made rieslings with abundant fruit and extract.

 

                Although there is no question that Egon Müller remains the man to beat on the Saar, the surprise of the vintage was van Volxem, who produced the finest range of pure rieslings that I have ever tasted at this estate.  Quite different from those of his neighbor and friend, and officially off-dry in style because they have more than nine grams per liter of residual sugar, these wines actually taste dry, which is why he chooses to write only riesling on their labels.  In fact, they have only 10 to 15 grams of r.s., but given their lively acidities, would not taste nearly so good with any less.

 

                Among those properties I have not portrayed in full, Claudia Loch from the Herrenberg estate in Schoden is certainly one of the rising talents.  Yields from her seven acres of organic vineyards are small, but the wines are dense and full of character.  Two-thirds of the production is dry or dryish, with the 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Feinherb (88) taking my highest mark in that style.  However, she also made a 2008 Schodener Herrenberg Riesling Auslese (89) and 2008 Schodener Herrenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (92) that show her sweet tooth.  And her 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling TBA (95) was one of the finest wines of the vintage.  With a total production of only 14,000 bottles in 2008, though, these wines never appear in any volume on the American market.

 

                The most interesting Saar wines from Sankt Urbans Hof generally come from the Ockfener Bockstein and Saarfeilser sites, but as the estate’s cellars are in Leiwen I have included them in the Mosel section.  The same is true of Kesselstatt, who again made a number of lovely rieslings from their choice vineyards in the Scharzhofberg.

 

                The old Bischöflich Weingüter have also begun again to put a better foot forward, especially from their sites on the Saar.  My two favorites among all of their wines this year were the 2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling Spätlese (88) and 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese (89).  Another of the large old foundations, Vereinigte Hospitien, also did well with its 2008 Serriger Schloss Saarfelser Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese (88).

 

                New on the block is Dr. Siemens, who bought the Bert Simon estate in 2006.  Two thousand seven EIGHT?? was only his second full vintage, but he has already shown a talent for the dry and off-dry wines that he has made the core of his portfolio.  I rated four of his wines with 87 points, with my nod going to the 2008 Serriger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb.

 

                In spite of the shortage of noble late harvest rieslings, the Saar was again slightly more successful than the Ruwer in 2008—and there are more producers making excellent wines here. The problem for the general consumer, though, beyond the challenge of vintage variation, is the fact that production runs the gamut from the drier rieslings of Heinz Wagner and Claudia Loch through the off-dry style of Lauer and Volxem to the opulent sweetness of Müller and Zilliken.  I enjoy the kaleidoscope of flavors, but even collectors will probably find it confusing.

 

Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, Saarburg.  Hans-Joachim Zilliken remains true to his style, even in vintages like 2008 that bring little of the noble late havest riesling for which he is rightly famous.  Although his crisp, off-dry entry-level wines are often somewhat difficult to understand in their youth, they generally age remarkably well, as anyone who has tasted them five years after bottling will attest.  That his American importer, though, concentrates on the kabinet and spätlese from his prime Rausch site is a decision I more than understand.  I drink them too!  2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Bosc pear, cherry pit and lemon peel on the nose.  Alluring palate feel, with spicy freshness and crisp, clear minerality.  Finishes bright in spite of the residual sugar.  A good effort.  88.  2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale yellow with a greenish tinge.  Lively floral aroma lifts spiced apple, white raisin and toasted pine nuts.  Delicately creamy papaya fruit offers a subtle texture and is nicely framed by zesty acidity.  Compact and spicy on the finish.  91.  2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Eiswein ($??): Pale golden yellow.  Peach pit, guava and lemon oil on the nose.  Luscious citrus fruits are given a refreshing quality by cool minerality and bracing acidity.  The long finish features an ethereal quality and a spicy elegance.  94.  Also recommended: 2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Riesling Feinherb Butterfly (85), 2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (87), 2008 Riesling, 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese #2                      Auction Wine (90).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken.  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Von Hövel, Oberemmel.  The last two vintages here have been impeccable. While 2007 brought more noble late harvest rieslings, the 2008s shine with ripe fruit, salty minerality and fine balance, with dry and off-dry bottlings more prominent.  As I wrote last year, these scores may not appear high, but the wines are a pleasure to drink.  2008 Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett ($??): Apricot and candied lemon on the nose.  Glossy but elegant, this kabinett tastes almost off-dry in style.  The clean finish features lime and discreet slate.  87.  2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Lively aromas of white peach and spearmint.  The crisp apricot pit flavor is kept taut by refreshing acidity.  A light and nicely balanced kabinett with an appealing finish that makes it fun to drink.  88.  2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Subtle aromas of pear, sweet herbs and lemon candy.  The herbal apricot fruit is set in a harmonius mineral structure.  Juicy and somewhat lush on the finish, with enough minerality to maintain a refreshing lightness.  89.  Also recommended:  2008 Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Balduin von Hövel (85), 2008 Oberemmler Hütte Riesling Spätlese (87).  (Rudi Wiest/Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA)

 

Peter Lauer, Ayl.  Although Peter Lauer’s dryish-style rieslings have been excellent for years, they are only slowly becoming more widely available in the States.  Part of that is due to Florian Lauer, who after his enological studies in Montpellier, is now Lauer’s fifth-generation winemaker.  Although traditionally each wine here is given the number of its individual cask, the estate has recently reintroduced the unofficial parcel names within the Kupp vineyard site rather than use terms like spätlese, which they seldom produce any longer, for its best dry and off-dry riesling:  Unterstenbersch, Stirn and Kern. When they get it right, as they did again in 2008 with the Kern shown below, few in Germany do it better.  2008 Ayler Kupp Unterstenbersch Riesling Halbtrocken ($??): Aromas of apricot skin, persimmon and apple blossom.  Bright, crisp peach stone flavor shows an almost salty minerality.  The persistent finish shows a crisp, refreshing spicy quality.  88.  2008 Ayler Kupp Stirn Riesling Feinherb ($??): Bright aromas of muskmelon, quince and lemon oil. Crisp apricot pit fruit betrays barely a hint of spicy sweetness. Pleasingly long, this riesling is all about balance.  88.  2008 Ayler Kupp Kern Riesling Feinherb ($??):  Exuberant peach, clove and pine nut aromas.  The creamy papaya texture is rich but spiked by a saline minerality that keeps the wine dancing over the palate.  With its subdued complexity and satisfying mineral finish, this is one of the finest off-dry wines of the vintage.  91.  Also recommended:  2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling Trocken #25 (85), 2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling Trocken #2 (86), 2008 Ayler Kupp Schonfels Riesling Trocken (88), 2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling Halbrocken #1 (87), 2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling Feinherb #3 (87), 2008 Saafeilser Riesling Feinherb (89).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken #16.  (Mosel Wine Merchants??)  [I show these from last year:  Importers include Douglas Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY and The Country Vintner, Oilville, VA]??

 

 

Egon Müller, Scharzhof.  Although Egon Müller describes 2008 as “only a kabinett vintage,” he was able to cull a stunning spätlese and a stellar gold capsule auslese from his seven hectares in the Scharzhofberg vineyard in late October and early November before snowstorms destroyed any hope of harvesting an ice wine.  In total, he made only ten wines and 80,000 bottles, but several of those are benchmarks for the vintage.  2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett #6 ($??):  Muskmelon, clove and nut oils on the nose.  Zesty, almost herbal peach pit flavor accented by delicate spice.  With its persistent finishing flavor of SMOKE AND slate??, this kabinett is pleasantly drier than some of years past.  88.  2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese #4 ($??):  Subtle floral aromas with hints of peach nectar, white raisin and lemon oil.  The velvety, creamy tropical fruit flavors appears bright and elegant thanks to the refreshing acidity.  Juicy, spicy, pure and delicate on the finish.  91.  2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese #8 ($??):  Pale golden yellow with a green tinge.  Unctuous aromas of candied peach, acacia blossom and cinnamon, plus a hint of spicy botrytis.  The palate offers a rich, velvety sweetness, with a texture and flavor of apricot preserves, an almost honeyed glaze, and subtle mineral depth that underlines the slate.  Dense, lively and impressively long on the aftertaste.  93.  2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese #5 ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Baked apple, quince and cinnamon on the nose.  The creamy, rich tropical fruit flavor is highlighted by spicy botrytis and an underlying acidity that insures a delicate airiness.  Offers hidden depth, with elegant spiciness, impressive complexity, and a dazzling finish for a “simple” aulese.  94.  2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule #10 (auction wine):  Rich golden yellow.  Intense aromas of dried apricot, baked apple and nut oil wafts over the brown spice botrytis.  Impressively unctuous tropical fruit flavors, with the weight of botrytis borne by a fine minerality.  The impressively long finish is deep and bright, displaying complex spices.  The finest auslese of the vintage and one of the best of any kind produced in Germany in 2008.  97.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Scharzhof #1 (85), 2008 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Kabinett #2 (87), 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett #3 (88), 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett #7 Auction Wine (89), 2008 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Austlese Gold Capsule #9 (94).  (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY)

 

Maximilian von Othegraven, Kanzem.  Dr. Heide Kegel is slowly breathing fresh life into this beautiful property at the foot of the Altenberg vineyard in Kanzem, a site that rivals the Scharzhofberg in historic importance, with 2008 being the most consistent effort since 2005.  Even the simple dry estate riesling has gained in stature, while the two cask-vinified Grosses Gewächs are excellent for the vintage and the kabinetts and spätleses are spot on.  2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett ($??):  White nectarine, pine nuts and lemon oil on the nose.  Crisp peach stone fruit plus a splash of minerality yield an elegant yet substantial palate impression.  Dryish in style, with a light, appealing finish.  87.  2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben ($??):  Lively aromas of green apple, cherry blossom and peppermint.  The palate offers succulent apricot pit fruit with refreshing spice and a glossy texture.  Light and elegant rather than overly dense, with a tantalizing?? finish.  90.  2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese (auction wine):  Pale golden yellow.  Ripe aromas of dried apricot, sweet basil and toasted almond.  The subtly rich, creamy texture is highlighted by peach and clove.  The pure, dense brown spice finish displays fine length.  90.  2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese ($??): Golden yellow with green highlights.  Sweet aromas of passion fruit, pineapple and sweet lime.  The lush fruit is punctuated by a bright spiciness that lightens and cleanses the palate.  The long, sweet finish is not at all cloying.  Very pleasing, but not better than the old-vine spatlese.  89.  2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Eiswein ($?? for 375 ml.):  Pale golden yellow.  Exalted?? floral aromas with nuances of apricot pit, lemon zest and guava.  Bracing pineapple fruit flavor shows a honeyed glaze and is enlivened by bright minerals on the finish.  Excellent balance and length here.  93.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Gewächs (88), 2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Kabinett (88), 2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Spätlese (89).  (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY)

Schloss Saarstein, Serrig.    Although Christian Ebert has become more consistent over the past decade, 2008 is far better than were the two previous vintages.  Clean and well-made, the kabinett, spätlese and auslese from his core Schloss Saarstein vineyards (THE WHOLE PROPERTY IS CALLED SCHLOSS SAARSTEIN, BUT NOT ALL VINEYARDS ARE OF EQUAL STATURE)?? all show the saline acidity that provides riesling from the Saar with its pedigree.  Even the dry wines, which can often be rather tart here, were notably better than last year.  2008 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Honeydew melon and lemon zest on the nose.  Bright apricot pit fruit with persistent spice and a salty minerality that enlivens the almost off-dry?? [what is "almost off-dry?" MORE FEINHERB. OFF DRY OR HALBTROCKEN IS LEGALLY AT MOST 18 GRAMS OF RESIDUAL SUGAR] finish.  87.  2008 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Subtle aromas of pear, ripe cherry and lemon oil.  Crisp apple fruit and creamy texture lead to an appealingly refreshing finish.  89.  2008 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Auslese ($??):  Golden yellow.  Rich aromas of pineapple, persimmon and white pepper.  The luscious tropical fruit flavors shows good verve in spite of the wine’s honeyed sweetness.  Densely packed, but with a clean and refreshingly spicy finish.  91.  Also recommended:  2008 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008 Saarstein Riesling (86).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Saarstein Pinot Blanc, 2008 Saarstein Riesling Trocken, 2008 Serriger Schloss Saarstein Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Saarstein Riesling Feinherb.  (Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK)

 

Van Volxem, Wiltingen.  Roman Niewodniczanski is hard to miss in a crowd.  Athletically built and nearly seven feet tall, his long blond hair wags behind him in a pony tail as he sails into the room.  His wines are equally hard to miss!  Since he purchased the old van Volxem estate some ten years ago, he has extended its holdings to over 100 acres and put forgotten vineyard names back on the map.  Some of his sites till sport 100-year-old vines planted on their original root stock; others are carefully selected genetic cuttings that he has chosen from old vineyard material to improve the region’s genetic pool.  Although consumers often still associate the Saar with delicately sweet spätlese, his full-bodied, off-dry style commands respect.  And 2008 has taken quality here to a new level.  As demand for dry riesling continues to mount, this is a style many estates are now trying to emulate, but no one is doing it better.  In fact, given the stunning quality of these wines, you have to ask why the VDP has limited Grosses Gewächs to 9 grams per liter of residual sugar.  Cartier would call these a “must.”  2008 Wiltinger Riesling Volz ($??):  Rich aromas of yellow plum, quince and sweet herbs.  Brilliant apricot FRUIT, SATIN texture?? and salty minerality provide this wine with real lift.  Juicy, generous and yet crisp on the persistent finish.  Uniquely satisfying.  91.  2008 Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp Riesling ($??):  Apricot, white pepper and sweet lime on the nose.  Rich peach skin fruit?? yet impressively bright and clear, with wet stone slate on the palate.  Nicely juxtaposes restrained residual sugar, bracing minerality and clove on the finish. Like the Volz, this is one of the ten best off-dry wines of the vintage.  92.  2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Alte Reben ($??):  Enticing aromas of wild peach, sweet herbs and nut oils.  Pungent, almost smoky apricot pit flavor shows riveting nerve and an uplifting mineral finish.  The finish of this show-stopper is subtle and seductively long, displaying an element of toasted almond.  In a pure, classical style.  93.

2008 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Alte Reben ($??):  Pale golden yellow with a green tinge.  Vibrant aromas of white peach, blackcurrant, honey and woodsmoke.  Creamy nectarine flavor is at once dense, brisk and refreshing.  Wonderfully balanced riesling with real depth and pronounced spicy minerality on the rich, complex finish.  This is my call for best off-dry wines?? of the vintage.  93.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Schiefer (86), 2008 Riesling Rotschiefer (86), 2008 Saar Riesling (87), 2008 Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling (88), 2008 Riesling Alte Reben (88), 2008 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling (90), 2008 Wawerner Goldberg Riesling (90), 2008 Scharzhofberg Riesling (90).  (Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR)

 

Heinz Wagner, Saarburg.  The bracing acidity in Heinz Wagner’s dry rieslings will be a shock for the uninitiated palate in 2008, which is why the finely balanced spätleses, without being overly sweet, were my favorites in 2008.  While not as voluptuous as these wines were in 2007, this remains a style that I like to drink.  2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Peach stone and lemon oil on the nose.  Bright, crisply elegant kiwi fruit texture on the palate. Appealing and fun to drink.  88.  2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese  ($??):  Vibrant aroma of apple blossom, lemon zest and sweet herbs.  The delicate pineapple fruit flavor is refined, salty and light. Well-balanced and attractive finish.  88.  Also recommended:  2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Saarburger Kupp Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2008 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (86), 2008 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (86).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Riesling Feinherb.  (Winebow, Inc., New York, NY)

 

Ruwer

 

                It would perhaps be unfair to say that the Ruwer’s star is waning, but nature has not been entirely cooperative with this tiny tributary of the Mosel in recent years.  And some of the producers there have perhaps not kept up with the pace of quality improvements taking place elsewhere.

 

                That said, the major story here this year is certainly the renaissance of von Schubert in Grünhaus.  Long a beacon of quality for the greater Mosel, this estate had been less convincing since the turn of the millenium.  Although the last couple of vintages have hinted at a rebound, it was only in 2008 that all of the pieces in the puzzle truly fell into place.  Christoph Tyrell at Karthäuserhof, on the other hand, was again less successful, leaving Herbert Weiss from Beulwitz as the most consistent producer from the Ruwer over the past decade.  His 2008s are reminiscent of the 2004s: light, elegant and eminently drinkable.

 

                Although I have been critical of the wines of Peter Geiben from Karlsmühle (Terry Theise) over the past few vintages, 2008 marks a clear change for the better here, with a well-balanced Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett (87) and a delicate spätlese (89) from the same site highlighting a collection that is still very consumer-friendly in its pricing.  With another vintage like this, Karlsmühle will again merit full coverage in these pages as it has in the past.

 

                Kesselstatt, which now has its headquarters and winery at Marienlay on the Ruwer, was again quite strong across the board, and made one of the region’s best dry rieslings (89) at their Nies’chen site in Kasel.  However, as they have choice parcels in the finest vineyards of the Mosel and Saar as well, I include them under the Mosel heading.

 

                Although the Ruwer is now in fact part of a larger region known only as the Mosel, and no longer Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, the two tributaries are allowed to mention their individual provenance—and most of the producers here are keen to highlight that point of difference.  Of the two, the Ruwer is the smaller, with a style somewhere between the taut, mineral elegance of the Saar and the more supple fruit of the middle stretches of the Mosel.

 

                In Germany, all the producers here have avid followings for dry riesling, but many American consumers will still rightly ask if such wines make any sense.  Aren’t the delicate kabinetts and elegant spätleses a better reflection of the region?  That may be true, but many of them have become too sweet.  I think the truth lies somewhere in between.  And there does seem to be renewed interest in the off-dry style that the Germans call Feinherb, with von Schubert’s Abtsberg Superior (92) being an example to follow.  Like van Volxems’s rieslings from the Saar, these wines taste drier than chardonnay with similar residual sugar because of their lower alcohol levels and crisp, refreshing acidity.

 

Erben von Beulewitz, Mertesdorf.  Herbert Weiss has been one of the most consistent performers on the Ruwer over the past decade.  Pure and dense, his Alte Reben??—from ungrafted, century-old vines—are (HE WRITES ALTE REBEN WHERE OTHERS MIGHT SAY GOLD CAPSULE)?? often references for the vintage in this region.  That was again the case in 2008.  Interesingly, he made no dry Grosses Gewächs this year, but instead an off-dry “Auf den Mauern,” which perhaps better captures the spirit of the vintage.  2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Feinherb Auf den Mauern ($??): Yellow plum, lemon oil and hyacinth on the nose.  Taut apricot pit fruit and a cisp minerality animate the palate.  The spicy finish displays pleasing depth and balance.  89.  2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben ($??):  Pale yellow.  Subtle aromas of nectarine, passion fruit and lemon oil.  The palate offers a nice balance of dense apricot pit fruit and subtle spiciness.  Shows almost imperceptible weight and depth, but this is still closed.  89.  2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Auslese Alte Reben (auction wine):  Pale golden yellow.  Rich aromas of yellow plum, musk and sweet herbs.  Delivers good depth of rich tropical fruit, with a velvety texture and in a rather elegant style.  Finishes with salty minerality and good persistence.  91.  Also recommended:  2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Spätlese Trocken “S“ (87), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett (87), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Auslese (90), 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Eiswein (91).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Weisser Burgunder Trocken Selection.  (Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA)

 

Karthäuserhof, Eitelsbach.  As in 2007, the 2008s from the affable Christoph Tyrell show juicy fruit and refreshing elegance, but with the exception of the Eiswein there are few bottlings that stand out and none that can compare with those from the finest estates on the Mosel.  Perhaps I am being overcritical, but my expectations are high when I see this unique label.  2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Apricot pit and apple blossom on the nose.  Light but with a crisp peachy fruit held aloft by vibrant acidity. Has grip and pleasant length in an almost off-dry style.  87.  2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale yellow.  Delicate aromas of white peach, persimmon and lemon oil.  The palate offers a subtle play of ripe apricot fruit and subdued minerality, with just enough fresh acidity to give it shape.  Nicely balanced on the satisfying finish.  88.  2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Ripe aromas of yellow plum, cherry and acacia blossom.  Supple, fresh and enticing, with subdued candied pineapple fruit complemented by a touch of honey.  Perhaps not stunning, but a very nice wine to quaff on a summer afternoon on the patio.  89.  Also recommended:  2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (86+?), 2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (85) and 2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese #48 Auction Wine (89), 2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Eiswein #51 (93).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Trocken, 2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Feinherb, 2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb.  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Von Schubert, Grünhaus.  Since the 2004 vintage, Dr. Carl von Schubert has been slowly and steadily crafting the renaissance of this beautiful estate, which was once not only the finest on the Ruwer but also one of the stars of the entire Mosel.  With the 2008 vintage, his new winemaker Stefan Kraml has finally put his imprint on the wines, which are pure, intensely delicate and finely nuanced—from the dry old-vine riesling to the superb eiswein.  Hats off!  2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Trocken Alte Reben ($??):  Papaya, lemon oil and sweet herbs on the nose.  Crisp and clean, with salty acidity, this old-vine riesling has the weight of an auslese.  One the finer dry wines from the Mosel in 2008.  89.  2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Superior ($??):  Unctuous aromas of guava, green apple and bacon fat.  Offers a succulent melon texture accented by a salty minerality.  Finishes rich, pure and tantalizingly dry.  In the off-dry style, one of the wines of the vintage.  92.  2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Bright aromas of white nectarine, green apple and acacia blossom.  Savory apricot pit and a touch of lemon oil keep the palate refreshing.  A finely balanced kabinett with weight and depth—and fun to drink!  89.  2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale yellow.  White peach, hyacinth and a touch of clove on the nose.  Subtly sweet papaya fruit and a hint of lime on the palate melt in a creamy note??? that is held in check by the restrained minerality.  A seductive wine with a penetrating, spicy finish.  90.  2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Succulent aromas of muskmelon, candied pineapple and woodsmoke.  Creamy on the palate, with a glossy texture of peach preserves.  Nicely balanced, animated and decidedly satisfying auslese with a spicy aftertaste.  91.  2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Eiswein ($???):  Pale golden yellow.  Rivetting aromas of gooseberry, lemon zest and pine cone.  Dense pit fruit flavors are intensified by a driving acidic definition teeming with flowers and juicy citrus.  Wild, fun and extremely long, this is one of the great wines of the vintage.  95.  Also recommended:  2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (87), 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Feinherb Superior (89), 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett #14 (88), 2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese #15 (90!!).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling Trocken.    (Valkenberg International, Tulsa, OK)

 

Nahe

 

                I tasted the wines of a record 61 producers from the Nahe this year, a tribute to the growing reputation of this region, which was little more than an unnamed tributary of the larger Rhine Valley appellation until wine legislation set it apart in 1971.  Since then, the Nahe has slowly established its profile as a positive blend of the aristocratic Rheingau and elegant Mosel styles, sometimes taking more of one or more of the other, depending on the vineyard site and vintage character.

 

                While more consistent than 2006, vintage 2008 again brought forth a mixed lot of wines.  This time, though, it was not rot that caused the damage, but an early harvest at those estates that were not prepared to take risks.  After a late flowering, hail in the summer, and a cool, humid September, many producers began to crush before their grapes reached full maturity.  The result was taut, green wines with marked, sometimes even bitter acidity.

 

                Those producers who waited made much better wines, with crisp, dry rieslings, refreshing kabinetts and delicate spätleses the hightlights of the year.  On the whole, though, it was only slightly better than a succulent kabinett vintage in the Nahe.  Even more so than in 2007, the ausleses were only marginally better, if at all, than the spätleses, and the volumes were miniscule.  Even less noble late-harvest wine was produced, with some estates making none at all.

 

                As in the past two vintages, five estates dominated quality here, with Tim Fröhlich and Werner Schönleber leading the pack, followed by Helmut Dönnhoff, Armin Diel and Dr. Peter Crusius, giving the Nahe a slate of excellent estates unmatched in Germany for a region of this size.  Beyond those five, I also cover Kruger-Rumpf and, for the first time—but as predicted last year—Jakob Schneider, whose quality continues to rise.

 

                Beyond those seven, however, there are a number of others who merit mention.  Götz Blessing from the Göttelmann estate in Münster-Sarmsheim, one of the silent stars of the region, again turned in an excellent showing, with his 2008 Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88) and Spätlese (89) from the same vineyard being my two favorites.  The 2008 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spätlese  (88) from Harald Hexamer (Terry Theise Selections) in Meddersheim was also well crafted.  Although his dry rieslings continue to improve, in particular the new “XXL,” they still do not match his auslese (89), beerenauslese (90) or eiswein (92).

 

                Sebastian Schäfer (Willette Wines, New York, NY), whose estate has been given full coverage in recent years, had a rather unremarkable vintage.  Martin Korrell from the Johanneshof estate in Kreuznach fared better, with his 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Königfels Riesling Trocken Gold Capsule (88) being my favorite.  The best wine from Bürgermeister Willi Schweinhardt in Langelonsheim was also dry, the 2008 Langenlonsheimer Rothenberg Riesling Terrasse Trocken (88), as was that of his neighbor Tesch, whose St. Remigiusberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88) topped the current collection.

 

                Up and coming are also Bamberger in Meddersheim, Hanmühle in Mannweiler and the old Staatsdomaene?? [sp?? STAATSDOMÄNE. AE or Ä are same.] in Niederhausen, which - NOW CALLED GUTSVERWALTUNG NIEDERHAUSEN-SCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIM - turned in one of its finest performances in years. THE NEW MANAGEMENT UNDER KARSTEN PETER, THE BROTHER-IN-LAW OF TIM FRÖHLICH, SHOULD ENSURE THE RENAISSANCE OF THIS HISTORIC PROPERTY.

 

Dr. Crusius, Traisen.  Long one of the most reliable producers on the Nahe, this estate has moved to center stage since the 2006 vintage.  After a stellar perfomance in 2007, which Dr. Peter Crusius describes as one of the best years he has ever had, 2008 was perhaps a touch less consistent, but the finest wines were no less impressive than their predecessors and the dry rieslings, due to their precision and elegance, are in fact better.  Again, the somewhat old-fashioned style here, paired with a balsamic mineral depth, sets these wines apart from their peers, and the lively acidity in the 2008 vintage provided the Gold Capsule Riesling Spätlese from the Bastei with the nerve that it lacked in 2007.  2008 Niederhäuser Felsensteyer Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Rich aromas of apricot pit, pine nuts and lemon oil.  Succulent white peach fruit is finely paired with an elegant acid spine.  Offers a glossy texture and nice weight, and finishes with noteworthy depth and spice character.  91.  2008 Norsheimer Kirscheck Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken XVII ($??):  Minty aromas of peach pit and clove.  The juicy palate offers attractive  passion fruit perked up by lively acidity.  Herbal but nicely animated finish.  88.  2008 Traiser Bastei Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule ($??):  Pale golden yellow with a greenish tinge.  Smoky aromas of pineapple, persimmon and sweet herbs.  The palate offers a delicate interplay of citrus fruit, with a salty minerality giving it a refreshing quality.  More about density than sheer elegance on the nonetheless subtle finish.  91. 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Subdued aromas of passion fruit, quince and vanilla, with a hint of botrytis.  Full-bodied maracuja?? fruit and vibrant acidity FRAME THE PALATE (cut: provide make for a complex framework)??.  Finishes COMPLEX, velvety and spicy.  90.  2008 Traiser Rothenfels Riesling Eiswein “HC” (auction wine): Intense golden yellow color.  Crisp aromas of guava, acacia honey and lime blend nicely with a touch of brown spice botrytis.  Dense passion fruit and mango flavors stain the palate.  At once unctuous and juicy on the persistent finish.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Traiser Weisser Burgunder Trocken “EC” (85), 2008 Traiser Weisser Burgunder & Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Traiser Bastei Riesling Trocken (88), 2008 Riesling Trocken Top of the Rock (89), 2008 Norsheimer Kirscheck Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Eiswein (90), 2008 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Eiswein #9 (91), 2007 Traiser Pinot Noir (85).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling “XX.  (Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; Crown,?? Florida)

 

Schlossgut Diel, Burg Layen.  Although Armin Diel’s decision to step down as the co-author of our annual guide was the talk of the summer (I’LL EXPLAIN BY TELEPHONE)?? in Germany, the wines produced here since his daughter Caroline returned to the estate after studying in Geisenheim merit even greater consideration.  As I wrote last year, both Diels were among the first to say that the hype built around the 2007 vintage may have been overstated—and both admire the ethereal lightness of the 2008s.  This estate has also begun to shine with bubbly wine:  their 2004 Cuvée Mo Sekt (92) was my favorite sparkling wine in this year’s tastings and the Goldloch Riesling Sekt (90) also finished in the top five in that category.  This versatility is what sets Diel apart from other estates on the Nahe.  In fact, very few others anywhere in Germany excel in what Armin Diel refers to as the winemaking pentathlon:  dry, off-dry and sweet rieslings, white Burgundian varieties, pinot noir, and now sparkling wine.  This was a strong effort?? for the DIFFICULT 2008 vintage and all the wines are eminently drinkable.  2008 Eierfels Riesling Trocken ($??):  Bosc pear and acacia blossom on the nose.  Crunchy peach flavor combines in a subtle way with an element of saltiness.  A vibrant and refined dry riesling:  this second wine (IT IS A BLEND OF WHAT DOES NOT MAKE THE CUT FOR GROSSES GEWÄCHS FROM HIS TOP THREE SITES) ?? is better than many Grosses Gewächs.  89.  2008 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Subtle aromas of white peach, mint and pine nuts.  A crisp pear flavor paired with subtle saltiness gives the palate a distinctly vibrant quality.  A pure, clean wine that finishes with a delicate lingering spicy character.  91.  2008 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Rich aromas of tropical fruit, persimmon and lemon oil.  Intense, full-bodied papaya fruit flavor is highlighted by a flinty minerality.  Rich and concentrated on the finish.  A bit closed today, but has excellent potential.  92.  2008 Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Kabinett:  ($??):  Apricot pit and sweet spices on the nose and palate.  Refreshing acidity makes this kabinett appear light and elegant in spite of its subtle richness.  A perfect wine for a Sunday afternoon.  89.  2008 Dorsheimer Pittemännchen Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Resplendent aromas of papaya, cling peach and oyster shell.  Dense but juicy, with finely spiced acidity refreshing the palate.  A rich, well-balanced wine in an invigorating style. 91.  2008 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Bright aromas of grapefruit, honeysuckle and sweet spices.  Luscious, velvety tropical fruit flavors display a delicate sweetness.  Finishes long, lively and elegant, with terrific clarity and spiciness.  92(+?).  Also recommended:  2008 Pinot Blanc (87), 2008 Pinot Gris (88), 2008 Victor (90), 2008 Nahestein Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Dorsheim Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Burg Layer Schlossberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (91), 2008 Burg Layer Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (85), 2008 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett (87), 2008 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Spätlese (91), 2008 Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (92), 2008 Riesling Eiswein (92), 2008 Scheurebe Spätlese (87), 2008 Rosé de Diel (85), 2008 Noir de Diel (85), 2007 Pinot Noir Caroline (90).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Diel de Diel.  (Terry Theise)

 

Hermann Dönnhoff, Oberhausen.  Following stellar performances in both of the previous vintages, 2008 was an understated year for Helmut Dönnhoff, in a style that harkens back to his classical heritage.  The wines are all light, perfectly balanced and wonderfully drinkable, but, like the reserved gentleman himself, none of them are show-stoppers.  Perhaps that is best so in 2008, for this is a refrained (RESTRAINED)?? spätlese vintage in which each of the vineyards expresses its distinct character in its own sublime way, with the Hermannshöhle being my favorite among the four that I tasted.  That said, as I often write, when Dönnhoff is on the label, neither the predicate nor the site is important. The wine is going to be good.  2008 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Savory aromas of dried apricot and blackberry, with a smoky, herbal character adding nuance.  Dense peach fruit with a finely polished minerality animate the palate.  Rich, elegant and spicy on the persistent finish.  90.  2008 Niederhäuser Dellchen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Seductive aromas of cling peach, smoked meat and lemon. Luscious guava fruit and salty minerality make for a layered palate.  The long, delicate finish shows noteworthy density.  91.  2008 Norheimer Kircheck Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale golden yellow with a hint of green.  Subtle honeysuckle aromas blend with hyacinth and lime.  Pure, polished peachy fruit with a very refined minerality drift dreamily across the palate.  Finishes delicate and quite long.  90.  2008 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Floral aromas lift apricot and quince on the nose.  The complex tropical fruit flavors are accented by a hint of licorice and a shot of slate.  The subtle balance of sweetness and acidity belies this wine’s richness.  Offers nice length and potential.  90(+?).  2008 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Golden yellow. Tantalizing aromas of papaya, cherry, sweet herbs and tobacco.  Discreet but intense cherry fruit rises from the mid-palate, animated by brilliant acidity. Lusciously spicy wine with long, deep finish.  I may be underrating this in the early going.  92(+?).  Also recommended:  2008 Pinot Blanc (85), 2008 Riesling Trocken (85),  2008 Riesling Trocken Tonschiefer (87), 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Trocken (89), 2008 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spatlese (89).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling.  (Terry Theise)

 

Emrich-Schönleber, Monzingen.  There is no question that Werner Schönleber has been one of the most consistent producers of first-class rieslings in Germany for at least the past five vintages.  And from dry riesling to the invigorating spätleses his 2008s are perhaps even better than his 2007s, with the Halenberg Grosses Gewächs and Frühlingsplätzchen Spätlese ranking among the finest of their respective categories in the vintage.  Although he posseses only two vineyard sites in Monzinger on the western end of the upper Nahe, his ability to make the character of each shine through in every wine is exemplary.  While the red slate of the Frühlingsplätzchen tends to bring forth more feminine rieslings, the wines from the blue slate of the Halenberg vineyard are more masculine and robust, as exemplified by the Halenberg “R”, one of the best off-dry rieslings of the vintage in Germany.  This is a style that I believe consumers would find extremely food-friendly, but with only a single letter on the label describing the bottle’s contents it will certainly remain a hand sell.  Although the noble late-harvest wines were not among the stars of the vintage, a stunning eiswein crowns the current line-up here.  2008 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Delicate cherry, lemon oil and salted almonds on the nose.  Subtle apricot flavor with good spicy weight and bright minerality on the palate.  An elegant saltiness lingers on the finish.  91. 

2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Spiced pear, sweet herbs and nut oils dominate the nose.  Dense, silky tropical fruit flavors are elegantly balanced by salty minerality on the palate.  Crisp, pure and savory, finishing sophisticated and very long.  One of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.  95.  2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling “R” ($??):  Fine bouquet of peach pit, pineapple and mint.  The rather velvety palate offers a delicate balance of sweet fruit and lively acidity.  Juicy and animated on the finish.  Off-dry riesling does not get much better than this.  91.  2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese ($??):  White peach, wild herbs and lemon zest on the nose.  Creamy papaya fruit washes over the tongue, supported by an intense minerality that refreshes the palate.  Finishes crisp, clean and pleasingly long.  91.  2008 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Intense aroma of pineapple, magnolia and lemon oil.  A delicate interplay of ripe citrus fruits and salty minerality gives this wine a distinguished tone.  Refined, expressive and quite elegant on the finish.  A stunning spätlese for the vintage.  94.  2008 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Eiswein Gold Capsule (auction wine):  Pale golden yellow.  Vibrant aromas of apricot pit, mint and oyster shell.  The poised passion fruit extract?? is juxtaposed by a bright, vivacious acidity.  A very pure wine of enormous depth, and yet refined and finely spiced on the palate-staining aftertaste.  One of the great wines of the vintage.  97.  Also recommended:  2008 Weisser Burgunder Trocken (85), 2008 Grauer Burgunder “S” (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Riesling Trocken Mineral (87), 2008 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Trocken (88), 2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Trocken (90), 2008 Riesling Trocken A.de. (92), 2008 Riesling Lenz (87), 2008 Monzinger Riesling Kabinett (87), 2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese (91), 2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Eiswein (93).  (Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA)

 

Kruger-Rumpf, Münster-Sarmsheim.  Although Stefan Rumpf and his son Johannes have long been extremely reliable, I have often been critical of this estate, not because the wines were not good, but because I thought the family could be doing better.  They surprise in difficult vintages, but seldom shine in great ones.  That said, 2008 appears to mark a turn for the better.  Seldom has the whole collection been so consistent.  The dry rieslings are dense but surprisingly animated, the two spätleses deliciously crisp. and the Pinot Noir “R” one of the best this estate has ever made.  2008 Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Citrus fruits, nut oil and hyacinth on the nose.  The tight apricotty palate opens slowly to show a spicy, almost razor-sharp acidity.  Austere, but still dense and convincing.  90.  2008 Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Rich bouquet of pear, cinnamon and sweet herbs.  A syrupy nectarine flavor is kept in balance by low-keyed minerality.  More full-bodied than elegant on the finish.  89.  Also recommended:  2008 Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Spätlese (88), 2008 Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Auselse (88), 2007 Pinot Noir “R” (88).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Grauburgunder Trocken “S”, 2008 Münsterer Riesling Trocken “S”.  (Terry Theise)

 

Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenau.  Tim Fröhlich has been one of the rising talents in Germany for almost a decade now, but seldom has his star shown as brightly as it did in 2008.  Although there were comparatively few late-harvest rieslings to tilt the scorecard in his favor, I nonetheless marked 13 of the 22 wines I tasted here with 90 points or higher, and six of them ranked among the top ten in Germany (IN VARIOUS CATEGORIES IN MY GUIDE) ?? in their respective categories.  While Dr. Bürklin-Wolf was a tough act to beat for its dry rieslings, this was certainly the best overall collection of the vintage and I named Tim Fröhlich winemaker of the year in my German guide.  Interestingly, the spontaneous fermentations cultivated here, which often leave tasters perplexed, were extremely pure in their expression this year.  If you want to know what great German riesling can taste like, buy some of these 2008s.  2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Blackcurrant, lemon zest and a floral twist on the nose.  Full and dense on the palate, yet at the same time juicy and invigorating.  A long, concentrated finish highlights the depth and minerality of this wine.  92.  2008 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Exuberant bouquet of star fruit, honeysuckle and acacia blossom.  Dense in texture, with apricot fruit nicely juxtaposed with slate-driven minerality.  The finish displays excellent depth and spicy minerality.  92.  2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Flamboyantly rich aromas of nectarine, honeysuckle and anise seed.  Downright chewy in texture, with APRICOT ?? fruit and wet stone minerality nicely interwoven.  With its superb purity, depth and very complex finish, this dry riesling is just beginning to show its potential.  93+.  2008 Bockenauer Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Melon, pineapple and lemon oil on the nose.  The velvety-sweet fruit and pure mineral salts unfold to offer a sensuous tactile quality.  Well-balanced and elegant, this kabinett punches far above its weight.  91.  2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Sumptuous aromas of melon, pineapple and wild herbs.  Luscious exotic fruit flavors are complicated by pure mineral salts.  Offers a honeyed richness and finishes juicy and very long.  93.  2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pure bouquet of honeydew melon, magnolia and sweet lime. The velvety sweet fruit and salty acidity give this wine an exotic kick.  Pure and impeccably balanced, with a lively, elegant finish.  Spätlese is seldom better in its youth than this beauty.  94.  2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel ($??):  Pale golden yellow with a greenish hue.  Unctuous aromas of apricot and sassafras, lifted by an exotic spice nuance.  Generous peach syrup flavor and massive extract saturate the palate, masking the wine’s subtle underlying acidity.  Perhaps more rich than elegant, but still the finest spätlese of the vintage! ??  95.  2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Subtle bouquet combines mango, acacia honey and lemon zest.  The palate is dominated by velvety tropical fruits but doesn’t not come off as heavy thanks to understated acidity. Hints of sweet nectar and spice animate the finish.  93.  2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction wine):  Rich golden yellow.  Candied pineapple, white peach and lemon oil brighten the botrytized nose.  On the palate, the flavor of sweet tropical nectars remains elegant thanks to the balancing effect of salty minerality. Extremely long and spicy on the finish, with invigorating sweetness.  94.  2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Eiswein Gold Capsule (auction wine):  Rich gold.  Intriguing aromas of dried apricot, persimmon and clove hide a note of botrytis.  Succulent quince and acacia honey flavors are lifted out of the velvety texture by the blue slate soils that accentuate the wine’s mineral acidity.  This unctuous, extremely dense wine finishes long and brilliant.  One of the finest wines of the vintage.  97.  Also recommended:  2008 Bockenauer Grauer Burgunder Trocken “S” (85), 2008 Bockenauer Weisser Burgunder Trocken “S” (86), 2008 Bockenauer Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Trocken (88), 2008 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Trocken (88), 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Trocken (89), 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (91), 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Halbtrocken (87), 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Beerenauslese Gold Capsule (93), 2008 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Eiswein (93).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken “SF”, 2008 Schlossböckelheimer Riesling Trocken.  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Jakob Schneider, Niederhausen.  With excellent sites on the middle stretches of the Nahe, but not always living up to its full potential, the Schneider estate in Niederhausen has only just begun to fire on all cylinders since Jakob Schneider Jr. returned full-time after finishing his studies in Geisenheim in 2007.  While his father still manages the vineyard, son Jakob has taken over the cellar and has now turned out two consecutive vintages that throw fresh light on the legendary Hermannshöhle vineyard. Not only that, these rieslings are still fairly priced.  2008 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Trocken Magnus ($??):  Refreshing aroma of white peach and lemon balm.  The vibrant palate nicely balances crisp ?? fruit and lively acidity.  Unpretentious but well-made riesling with a refreshing finish.  89.  2008 Niederhäuser Klam Riesling Spätlese ($??): Tropical fruits and lemon oil on the nose.  Light and elegant, with an almost velvety?? texture to the ?? fruit and nicely integrated acidity.  Lightly nutty nuance.  An unassuming wine that’s more refined on the palate than is apparent at first glance.  88.  2008 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese Edith Elisabeth ($??): Tropical fruits, honeysuckle and lemon oil on the nose.  In a rather feminine style, showing juicy guava fruit and a spicy texture.  The elegant finish displays a salty acidity.  89.  2007 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Beerenauslese ($??): Rich golden yellow.  Candied aromas of cling peach, papaya and sweet herbs over a bed of honeyed botrytis.  The succulently sweet tropical fruit mask the wine’s underlying spicy minerality.  Rich, dense and concentrated, with a sumptuously warm finish.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2008 Niederhäuser Felsensteyr Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Niederhäuser Klamm Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese Junior (89), 2008 Norheimer Kircheck Riesling Eiswein (90), 2008 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Eiswein (91).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Melaphyr Trocken.  (Terry Theise)

 

Rheingau

 

                After providing almost picture-book conditions in 2007, Mother Nature was less generous to the producers in the Rheingau this year.  A cool, moist autumn slowed the ripening process so much that the grapes only reached full ripeness, if at all, very late in the growing season.  Even then, acidity levels remained comparatively high and must weights were at best moderate.  As elsewhere, those estates that lost patience and harvested too early had to deal with unripe, often bitter acidities. Those who waited, however, were able to make rieslings with a compact,?? but refreshing lightness not seen in the past two vintages. Moreover, alcohol levels were lower than in 2007, which makes the dry Erstes Gewächs bottlings much more appealing.

 

                Under such conditions, the heavier clay soils in the middle stretches of the Rheingau suffered the most.  Most producers there found it difficult to make wines that can compete with their predecessors from 2007.  As occurs so often, though, the steeper, weathered slate slopes in Rüdesheim, which were both warmer and better drained, fared consistently better, as did producers in higher villages such as Kiedrich or those on the eastern end of the Rheingau in Hochheim.  Some of their 2008s, on the other hand, were better than in 2007.

 

                Generally it was the kabinetts and spätleses that brought the best results.  Many wineries, in fact, made little or no noble late-harvest wines.  Those that did had mixed results.  Only Weil, Spreitzer and a few other estates made much in the way of auslese, beerenauslese or trockenbeerenauslese that merit the high prices these wines fetch.  These, though, are often better than similar bottlings from 2007.  The number of interesting eisweins, on the other hand, can be counted on the fingers of one hand—and were often made only in minute quantities.

 

                On the whole, 2008 is thus not nearly as consistent as 2007.  The finest wines are rarer and were often produced in somewhat smaller volumes, but the best are in no way inferior to those from last year. In fact, given their crisp, bright character they are much more appealing to drink.  Whether they will age as well remains to be seen.

 

                I tasted the wines from 73 estates here this year. Considering the fact that the Rheingau, with only 7,800 acres of vines, is one of the smallest growing regions in Germany, that is an unusually large number.  In fact, the Rheingau is only a third as large as the Mosel and smaller even than the neighboring but lesser-known Nahe, where I tasted the wines of only 59 estates.

 

                The finest 2008 collections were certainly those of Josef Leitz and Robert Weil, with Breuer, Johannisberg and Schönborn close at their heels. The most pleasant surprise, though, was the resurgence in quality of Künstler, who used to be one of my favorite producers in the Rheingau, and the appearance of Kanitz and Kloster Eberbach on the vinous radar screen.

 

                As I stated above, although the vintage was not truly compelling, a large number of wines from another two dozen estates certainly merit closer attention.  I have highlighted 20 of them in alphabetical order below.  Of those, Kanitz, Kloster Eberbach and Kuhn actually now merit full coverage, but several of the remaining 17 can in some vintages be almost as good.

 

                Norbert Barth (Truly Fine Wine) is a reliable producer, with 2008 continuing in the same vein as 2007.  From the Hassel site in Hattenheim he again made an appealing Riesling Erstes Gewächs (88).  Although seldom seen in export markets, this estate is well known in Germany for its sparkling wines, which can be surprisingly good.

 

                After a seductive selection of 2007s, Hans-Josef Becker from J. B. Becker in Walluf again fared well in 2008.  My favorites were his Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (89) and the sweet spätlese (89) from the same site.  As he moves to biodynamic viticulture and spontaneous fermentations, combined with drier styles, this once old-fashioned estate is donning new robes.  Keep an eye on developments here.  Although small, Diefenhardt in Martinstal is a consistent producer of well-made values, but owner Peter Seyffahrt can also surprise, as he did in 2008, not only with a Riesling Erstes Gewächs from his Langenberg (88) vineyard, but also a sublime Trockenbeerenauslese (93) from the same site.  His pinot noirs are also quite good.

 

                Dr. Franz-Werner Michel from Domdechant Werner (Slocum & Sons, Chambers & Chambers and Ewald Moseler) in Hochheim is widely known abroad and his wines are seen in numerous export markets.  Although not always consistent, his 2008s are first rate, with the Domdechaney Riesling Erstes Gewächs (89) and Spätlese (90) from the same site being my two preferred wines.

 

                Once among the stars of the Rheingau, the rieslings of August Eser have improved considerably since his daughter Desirée has taken over the property, with the last two vintages marking a new morning.  Although I can recommend all of her wines, the 2008 Rauenthaler Rothenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs (89) and Spätlese (88) from the same site are my calls from the current vintage; the 2008 Doosberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (88) will also enjoy a following.

 

                Reiner Flick in Flörsheim continues to solidify his standing among the consistent producers in the Rheingau, with 2008 bringing another strong performance.  My two favorites this year were the dry Riesling Grosses Gewächs from the Mönchgewann (88) and Nonnberg (90) sites, both in Wicker.  Among the aristocratic estates in the Rheingau, Prinz von Hessen (Folio Fine Wine Partners) in Johannisberg was long largely forgotten.  Over the past few vintages this venerable estate has  slowly begun to reemerge.  Three of their 2008 Erstes Gewächs again show promise: the Klaus (88), Jesuitengarten (88) and Hasensprung (89).  The best, though, may be yet to come.

 

                The same is more than true of the estate of Count Kanitz in Lorch.  Kurt Gablemann has shown a steady hand here since moving across the Rhein from the Nahe.  His 2008 Kappelberg (88) and Pfaffenwies (89) Riesling Spätlese Trocken were two of three fine dry rieslings he produced this year, the other being the Krone Alte Reben (88), but his 2008 Bodental-Steinberg Riesling Kabinett (89) in an almost Feinherb style was perhaps his most intriguing wine. In any case, it was one of the ten finest kabinetts of the vintage.  Given their location in Lorch, these wines speak with a Mittelrhein accent, but I find them attractive for that very reason.

 

                For most consumers, the monastery of Kloster Eberbach (Vinum Cos THIS WAS THE NAME I WAS GIVEN?? and Dee Vine Wines) in Eltville, where “The Name of the Rose” was filmed, is little more than a tourist destination.  Owned by the State of Hessen, the winery, however, has made enormous strides over the past few vintages under the management of Dieter Greiner.  While his Erstes Gewächs topped this year’s dry white offerings, with the Domdechaney (89) and Berg Schlossberg (90) leading the fray, his two pinot noirs were the biggest surprise for me.  I was very impressed by the 2007 Assmannshausen Höllenberg Spätburgunder Auslese Trocken (91) and the 2007 Pinot Noir (92).  Moreover, this estate crowned the vintage with two succulent TBAs, both of which I rated 93 points.  If 2009 is equally impressive, this historic estate will certainly merit full coverage.

 

                With 85 acres of vineyards, Ferdinand Koegler from Hof Bechtermünz (Lietzau, Tucson, AZ) in Eltville not only makes 185,000 bottles a year, but much of it is quite good, as the 2008 Eltviller Sonnenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs (88) and Sonnenberg Spätlese (90) amply prove.  In additon, the estate not only bottled a good TBA (90) and eiswein (91) this year, but the spätburgunders are also rapidly improving in quality.

 

                Speaking of quality, Peter Jakob Kühn (Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Domaine Select, New York, NY) is obsessed.  That said, I chose last year to portray Reinhartshausen rather than this estate because Kühn’s (YES)?? spontaneous fermentations and radical changes in style have made clear judgments about his dry wines’ intrinsic quality difficult, at least in their youth.  To diffuse that criticism, he now releases his top dry rieslings a year later; among these, the 2007 Schlehdorn (89) is my favorite.  His noble late-harvest wines are always beyond reproach, with his 2008 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94) being one of the top examples of the vintage.  Not surprisingly, an estate like this has both avid followers and ardent detractors.  I often feel that I am both.

 

                Baron Langwerth von Simmern (Chambers & Chambers, Lietzau, Southern??) is another of the beautiful old noble estates in the Rheingau with large holdings of excellent vineyards that would make any winemaker jealous.  I have often sensed that it was on the verge of a renaissance, but that story is still unfolding.  In 2008, all three of their Riesling Erstes Gewächs were again very good, with the Mannberg (90) showing perhaps a touch more potential than either the Wisselbrunnen (89) or Baiken (89).

 

                One of the pleasant surprises over the past few years has been the emergence of the estate of Wilhelm Mohr (Savio Soares Selections) in Lorch under the direction of Jochen Leher.  Two thousand eight, however, was not an exceptional vintage for dry riesling here, with his Steinberg (87) vineyard being the top of the pack, but he consistently makes one of Germany’s best sparkling wines and his 2007 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder Alte Reben (90) more than deserves an honorable mention.

 

                The winery of G. H. von Mumm is owned and managed by Schloss Johannisberg.  As with the latter, the 2007s of the former brought a new lease on life.  The 2008s are not quite as successful, but I did like the Riesling Erstes Gewächs from the Berg Rottland (88) vineyard.

 

                The star of Heinz Nikolai in Erbach continues to rise.  In the difficult 2008 vintage he made two very pleasing Riesling Erstes Gewächs from his Steinmorgen (88) and Siegelsberg (88) vineyards.  From the former, he also bottled an elegant eiswein (92), some of which (HE MAKE A SPARKLING EISWEIN ALMOST EVERY YEAR THAT IS MOST UNUSUAL BUT EXCELLENT) ?? he generally sets aside to make a most unusual but nonetheless stunning sparkling wine.

 

                Fred Prinz in Hallgarten (Dee Vine Wines and Magellan) has been very successful over the past decade.  Although his dry rieslings are not generally his strong suit, I did like his 2008 Hallgartener Schönhell Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87).  However, as is so often the case, the Kabinett (88) and Spätlese Gold Capsule (90) from the Jungfer site were his two best wines in 2008.

 

                As the dry rieslings from Peter Querbach in Oestrich generally mature well, I expect that his 2008 Oestricher Doosberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs (89) will age gracefully.  His more off-dry 2008 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling “Q1” (88), though, is more succulent to drink today.

 

                As he has over 100 acres of vineyards, an enterprising spirit and an incessant travel bug, it is not surprising that the wines of Stefan Ress from Balthasar Ress (Frederick Wildman & Sons) in Hattenheim are well represented in many export markets.  His son Christian also aids other German producers in finding importers for their own wines.  I liked both of this estate’s 2008 Riesling Erstes Gewächs but had a slight preference for the richer Berg Rottland (89) over the more ascetic Berg Schlossberg (88).  Father and son also managed an explosive TBA (92) from the former site that will be sold at auction.

 

                More classical are the wines of W. J. Schäfer in Hochheim, at the eastern end of the Rheingau.  With only 15 acres of vineyard and a total production of merely 50,000 bottles, these bottles are not often seen in the U.S., but the 2008 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Ertes Gewächs (88) and Domdechaney Spätlese (89) are well crafted.  Neither is quite as dense as in 2007, but both are very reasonable priced.

 

                Although Bernd and Ralf Schönleber in Oestrich-Winkel have been a consistent source of well-made Rheingau rieslings for about a decade now, they upped the ante in 2007.  Their two 2008 Riesling Erstes Gewächs from Mittelheim continue in that same vein, with the difference between the St. Nikolaus (88) and the Edelmann (88) being more one of style than quality.  From the former site, they also made a respectable auslese (90), but the surprise this year was a 2007 sparkling wine they named Creation Karat, an unusual blend of riesling and pinot noir.  It was one of my favorite sekt bottlings in this summer’s tastings.

 

                As I wrote last year, I know that few American consumers will be looking to the Rheingau for their red wines, but the pinot noir planted in or near Assmannshausen on the western tip of the region can be phenomenal.  And in a vintage like 2007, which is now coming onto the market, they were.  Two of the famous smaller producers here are Robert König and the Krone estate, once owned by the hotel of the same name and now by Tom Drieseberg from Wegeler.  One of the finest pinot noirs of the vintage, though, was made by the State of Hessen at their Domäne Assmannshausen.  Grown on schist soils, and thus unmistakably German, their 2007 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder Auslese Trocken Gold Capsule Mauerwein (92) fetched an understandably high price at a recent auction.  The other great 2007 pinot noirs were made either by Kloster Eberbach, as mentioned above, or by August Kesseler, who is reviewed in this issue.

 

Georg Breuer, Rüdesheim.  Although its Gold Capsule Auslese was one of the finest wines of its ilk in 2008, this estate has long specialized more in dry rieslings, which account for the lion’s share of its total production.  So much so that front labels like that of its Rüdesheim Estate do not even mention either riesling or trocken, those being self-explanatory, as they would be on a bottle of Puligny-Montrachet.  As the 2008 Berg Schlossberg heartily attests, few estates do it better and even fewer make dry rieslings that mature so gracefully over time.  Each year, I do a “ten years after” tasting of 60 top dry rieslings from my old guide to see which are in best form.  Since his death in 2004, the winner is awarded the Bernhard Breuer Memorial Trophy.  Almost without fail, at least one of Breuer’s wines—now made by his brother Heinrich, daughter Theresa and loyal cellarmaster Hermann Schmoranz—scores among the top ten.  This year, the 1998 Berg Schlossberg took fifth place.  In dry years, the Nonnenberg site in Rauenthal often does better; 2008 was a classical vintage for the top sites in Rüdesheim.  2008 Rauenthaler Nonnenberg Riesling Trocken ($??):  White peach, toasted nuts and vanilla on the nose.  Rich yet precise pear fruit in a low key.  Oily in texture, but with a juicy minerality on the finish.  In a classical style—and perhaps a sleeper in 2008.  90.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trocken ($??):  Expansive aromas of apricot pit, lemon oil and woodsmoke.  The luscious tropical fruit flavors are layered and deep, with pure minerality and enormous extract making this a wine for the long haul.  One of the finest efforts of the vintage.  94.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule ($??):  Pale gold.  Exuberant aromas of musk, melon [muskmelon??] and mango, plus a hint of brown-spice botrytis.  The creamy papaya flavors remain delicate on the palate due to a vibrant freshness.  With a rich, juicy, elegant finish, this is one of the finest ausleses of the vintage.  94.  Also recommended:  2008 Grauer Burgunder (87), 2008 Riesling Rüdesheim Estate (85), 2008 Riesling Rauenthal Estate (85), 2008 Riesling Terra Montosa (87), 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Trocken (90), 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trocken (91), 2008 Riesling Auslese (90).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Sauvage, 2008 Riesling Charm.  (Classical Wines, Seattle, WA)

 

Schloss Johannisberg, Johannisberg.  An icon in the Rheingau, Schloss Johannisberg had long been eclipsed in terms of sheer quality by younger, more dynamic neighbors.  However, over the past five years this estate has slowly reemerged from the ashes, culminating in a stunning 2007 collection that set a new benchmark here.  As the vineyards in Geisenheim generally struggle under cool, moist meteorological conditions, 2008 is across the board not quite of the same cut, but the highlights of the vintage are equally impressive, a tribute to the astute skills of the new management team under the direction of Christian Witte.  Anyone visiting the region will certainly notice the imposing castle, but the large selection of old bottles maturing in the “Bibliotheca subterranea,” as Johannisberg calls its stellar reserve cellar, is also worth a detour.  2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs Silberlack ($??):  Apricot pit, lemon oil and nutmeg on the nose.  Full-bodied, but the wine’s slightly austere texture gives focus to the flavor of star fruit.  Although quite classical in style, this wine’s pure minerality on the finish makes it exciting to drink already.  91.  2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Rotlack ($??):  Aromas of peach and guava.  Sweet tropical fruits and saline minerality brighten the palate.  Spicy on the finish.  This is more for food than for solo drinking.  87.  2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Spätlese Grünlack ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Bright aromas of mango, lichee and spearmint.  Luscious pit fruit flavor lifted by a tart citrus overtone.  Young, enticing and yet rather cerebral on the finish.  91.  2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Beerenauslese Rosagoldlack ($???):  Rich gold.  Heady aromas of musk, ?? (MUSK MELON) melon and mango over a fine bed of licorice botrytis.  The creamy papaya flavors remain delicate on the palate due to the wine’s sheer vibrancy.  The enchantingly long finish display a spicy, uplifting minerality.  93.  2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Eiswein ($??): Pale golden yellow.  Crisp, clean aromas of mango, caramel and lemon oil.  Rich, spicy tropical fruits with a hint of brown spice on the palate. Perfectly balanced eiswein with bracing saltiness and a riveting, ?? (WHY NOT RIVETING FINISH?) finish. Again, a wine at the top of its class.  95.  Also recommended:  2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett Trocken Rotlack (86), 2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Feinherb Gelblack (86), 2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Beerenauslese (95).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Trocken Gelblack.  (Valkenberg International, Tulsa, OK)

 

Johannishof, Johannisberg.  Johannes Eser has over the years generally been a consistent source of inimitable Rheingau rieslings at very attractive prices.  Like many of his colleagues, though, he struggled with the weather patterns in 2008.  The two finest wines are beyond reproach, but a number of the other bottlings lack the depth and substance of better vintages.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Aromas of white peach, sweet lime and lemon cress.  Closed, almost austere STAR?? fruit shows a vibrant, salty minerality.  Just enough depth and spice lace a finish that is more drinkable than cerebral.?? 89.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale yellow.  Inviting aromas of dried apricot, nut oil and lemon cress.  Creamy yet juicy tropical fruits sweeten the palate.  An elegant, refined wine with just enough concentration to be serious.  88.  Also recommended:  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spätlese Trocken Retro Domos (87), 2008 Johannisberg Riesling Kabinett “G” (85), 2008 Johannisberger Klaus Riesling Spätlese (87).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken Mineral, 2008 Johannisberger Hölle Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Winkler Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese Trocken, 2008 Johannesberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb “S”, 2008 Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, 2008 Riesling Kabinett Charta.  (Valkenberg International, Tulsa, OK)

 

Jakob Jung, Erbach.  Alexander Jung, who only recently finished his degree in winemaking at Geisenheim, took over this estate from his father in 2006.  Although his wines seldom rival the stars of the region, they are consistent in quality and offer excellent value for money.  For a producer not based in Assmannshausen, his pinot noirs are also remarkably well styled MADE??.  2008 Erbacher Siegelsberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Aromas of white peach, persimmon and mint.  Fullish on the attack, but displays a clear, crisp minerality.  More linear than muscular on the finish.  Still needs time.  89.  2008 Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Spätlese Feinherb ($??):  Subtle aromas of apricot pit, guava and mint leaves.  Creamy, almost sweet tropical fruits tantalize the palate.  Spicy, refreshing and appealingly drinkable.  89.  Also recommended:  2008 Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Riesling Trocken Sturmhaube (86), 2008 Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (87), 2008 Riesling Classic Feinherb (86), 2008 Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Eiswein “S” (91), 2007 Erbacher Steinmorgen Spätburgunder (87), 2007 Pinot Noir Alexander Johannes (88), 2007 Pinot Noir Alexander Johannes "R" (89).  (New Wine Logistics??, Manhasset, New York)

 

August Kesseler, Assmannshausen.  August Kesseler has managed to put a more classical stamp on his once-overblown dry rieslings over the past two vintages, with the 2008s being particularly attractive.  However, the vintage brought little or none of the noble late-harvest delicacies that he so enjoys making.  Although not seen widely in the U.S., his pinot noirs can be excellent, with the two single-vineyard bottlings from the excellent 2007 vintage showing his estate in top form.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Apricot, lemon zest and nut oil on the nose.  Rich, full-bodied peach skin flavor leavened by well-integrated acidity.  Nicely balanced wine, finishing with a refreshing spicy character.  90.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Erstes Gewächs ($??):  White peach, persimmon and sweet lime on the nose. Supple apricot fruit with salty minerality animates the palate.  Finishes spicy and deep, if still somewhat closed.  91.  2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Spätburgunder ($??):  Full red-ruby.  Rich aromas of blackberry, smoked bacon fat and fresh rose.  Lush in texture with sweet berry fruit of noteworthy depth.  Finishes gently spice, with ripe tannins and impressive length.  92.  2007 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder ($??):  Ruby-red.  Bing cherry, hazelnut and a whiff of vanilla on the nose.  Ripe raspberry fruit and lively spiciness tease the palate.  A very nicely balanced wine with supple tannins, both elegant and complex—and a lovely example of Rheingau pinot noir.  92(+?).

Also recommended:  2008 Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken (88), 2007 Pinot Noir (85), 2007 Pinot Noir Max (89).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Pinot Noir Rosé.  (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

 

Franz Künstler, Hochheim.  After buying the Aschrott estate in 1996 and settling into its cellars, Gunter Künstler expanded his estate to its current 75 acres.  So two years ago he moved again, this time into the more spacious quarters that were once occupied by the Hochheim sparkling wine company.  Vintage 2007 marked a trend to reemerging quality that has been majestically continued in 2008, producing arguably the finest collection of dry rieslings here in over a decade.  Although Künstler still makes elegantly sweet kabinetts and spätleses, mostly for export markets, I have not tasted them, nor the 2007 pinot noirs, which should be excellent.  If this march continues, Künstler might again soon be counted among the true icons of the Rheingau.  2008 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Pithy aromas of peach, lemon oil and woodsmoke.  Taut in texture, with rich, toasty nectarine fruit supported by a well-integrated acid structure.  Finishes with very good depth and length.  In a classical style.  90.  2008 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Very rich aromas of apricot, bosc pear and toasted almond.  Firm, almost austere peach fruit is complemented by a rich, salty minerality.  Still closed, but displays superb length and considerable polish.  91.  2008 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken Gold Capsule ($??):  Rich floral aroma over apricot pit, lemon zest and sweet herbs.  The palate offers intense tropical fruit flavors with a complex acidic drive that gives the wine a juicy crispness.  A touch closed, but offers excellent potential.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Hochheimer Weiss Erd Riesling Trocken (88), 2008 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Trocken (89), 2008 Hochheimer Stielweg Riesling Trocken Old Vines (89).  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Josef Leitz, Rüdesheim.  After two vintages that were good to very good but not exceptional, Josef Leitz hit the bullseye in 2008.  No, there was very little of the noble late-harvest wares that some collectors associate with a great vintage, but he was spot on in the three disciplines that matter most for those of us who actually drink riesling on a regular basis: dry, off-dry and spätlese.  In each of those categories he made one of the ten best wines in all of Germany.  While Weil scored four times (IN THE TOP TEN LISTS)??, he excelled amid less competition with his auslese and upwards.  Further, Leitz’s Dragonstone and Magic Mountain offerings remain probably the best widely available commercial rieslings from Germany.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trocken Alte Reben ($??):  Bright aromas of peach pit, almonds and clove.  The ripe, crisp apricot fruit sits tightly on a salty, mineral framework.  The savory, very long finish brings nut oils and noteworthy finesse into play.  Very sophisticated wine.  92.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trocken Alte Reben ($??):  Exuberant aromas of white peach, sage and smoked almond.  Glossy, dense apricot pit flavor is enlivened by sweet herbal inflections.  The wine’s sheer depth and spicy juiciness ensure an impressively long finish.  92.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trocken Alte Reben Gold Capsule ($??):  Rich herbal aromas of dried apricot, toasted hazelnut and bacon fat.  Profoundly concentrated, unctuous yellow fruits on the palate, which displays an ideal balance of flesh and juiciness, not to mention superb depth.  With its impeccable equilibrium and formidable length, this is one of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.  94.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken Alte Reben ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Sumptuous aromas of white peach, melon and pineapple.  Delicately sweet passion fruit flavor braced by saline minerality.  A delicate spice component animates the finish of one of the finest off-dry rieslings of the vintage.  92.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Mango, banana and honey on the enticing nose.  Rich, spicy tropical fruit flavors show a hint of botrytis and creamy depth.  Certainly a touch on the sweet side but nicely balanced and seductively long, this is one of the best spätleses of the vintage.  93.  Also recommended:  2008 Rüdesheimer Trocken (85), 2008 Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Riesling Trocken Magic Mountain (88), 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Trocken (89), 2008 Rüdesheimer Rosengarten Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008 Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (86), 2008 Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Spätlese (88), 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese (90).  (Terry Theise)

 

Schloss Reinhartshausen, Erbach.  I first gave this estate full coverage last year.  Although 2008 was not quite as spectactular, Reinhartshausen remains a major player in the Rheingau and produced four serious wines.  Walter Bibo, who arrived here in 2003 and first excelled in 2005, is obviously putting the pieces of an intricate puzzle together.  My prediction is that the best is still to come.  2008 Erbacher Schlossberg Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Aromas of yellow plum, vanilla and oyster shell.  The palate offers polished peach fruit with a hint of sweetness and almost chalky minerality.  Poised and spicy on the finish.  88.  2008 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs ($??):  White peach, lemon zest and sweet herbs on the nose.  Supple and rich in extract, with a passion fruit flavor lifted by complex acidity.  Deep but currently closed, and built for the long haul.  90.  2008 Erbacher Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Crisp aromas of candied pear and lemon oil.  Glossy, sweet fruit with a refined impression of weight.  Offers an attractive balance of residual sugar and acidity.  88.  2008 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale golden yellow. Expressive aromas of ripe apricot, candied pineapple and herbal spices.  An unctuous nectarine flavor is given a vivacious character by subtle acidity.  Finishes with grip and distinction.  90.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Classic (85), 2008 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Feinherb (87), 2008 Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling Feinherb Alte Reben (87).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Weissburgunder & Chardonnay Mariannenaue, 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Mariannenaue, 2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Riesling Trocken.  (Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL)

 

Schloss Schönborn, Hattenheim.  Peter Barth, who has been the winemaker here since 2001, was promoted to general manager in 2006. Since then everything at this venerable old estate has been set on fast forward.  With a plethora of excellent vineyards across the full breadth of the Rheingau, Schloss Schönborn had always had the potential to be one of the finest producers of the region, but the 2007 vintage marked the true beginning of a new era.  As Barth himself says, “2008 was a trial. Without the top sites my work would have been almost impossible.” As it was, he made four compelling Erstes Gewächs, two lovely spätleses and a pair of beerenausleses to crown the vintage.  2008 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Subdued aromas of grapefruit, lemon cress and toasted nuts.  The creamy papaya fruit extract pairs nicely with the citrus zest and keeps the wine vibrant.  A stony, somewhat salty finish provides elegance and length.  90.  2000 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Aromas of yellow plum, cherry blossom and nut oils.  At once creamy and austere, with insistent spiciness and a note of high-toned lemon zest bringing the wine a refreshing bite.  Almost monolithic at first, but surprisingly long on the aftertaste.  Offers excellent potential.  90(+?).

2008 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Peach pit, lemon oil and soy on the nose.  Candied fruits, toasted almond and a salty minerality combine in a dense but somewhat austere palate.  The very long finish shows aristocratic poise.  Classical Rheingau riesling!  91.  2008 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Voluptuous aromas of papaya, brioche and bacon fat.  Rich and densely packed, with a delicious minerality framing the nectarine flavor.  Broad- shouldered, distinguished and exceptionally long—and still remarkably young.  92.  2008 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Wildflower aromas combine with guava, cinnamon and nut oils.  The luscious tropical fruit flavors and bacony tang work lively rather than sweet.  A succulent spätlese with fine length.  91.  2008 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Beerenauslese ($??):  Rich gold.  Expansive aromas of carmelized apricot, banana and butter cream.  Rich, spicy, high-pitched fruit with well-chiseled stony minerality.  Dense but not heavy; in fact, deliciously sleek for a beerenauslese.  Very intense and long on the finish, and not at all cloying.  93.  Also recommended:  2008 Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Hattenheimer PFaffenberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (87), 2008 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett (88), 2008 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spätlese (90), 2008 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (93).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken and 2008 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Riesling Feinherb.  (Liberty??; Elmira Distributing; Slocum & Sons; Dee Vine Wines, Cavatappi, Southern Wine and Spirits)

 

Josef Spreitzer, Oestrich.  As I wrote last year, you generally can’t go wrong when choosing a wine from this estate.  Two thousand eight may not have quite the depth of fruit that 2007 did, but the rieslings are all crisp, pure and animated, from the light dry kabinetts to the majestic trockenbeerenauslese.  In fact, as they are often light compared to the denser variants from the other top estates in the Rheingau, the 2008s are sometimes a bit too taut, without the complexity of a Leitz or a Schönborn, but they are nonetheless eminently drinkable—and fairly priced.  Generally the rieslings from the Doosberg vineyard are more modern in style, often taking advantage of wild fermentations, while those from Lenchen remain more classically Rheingau in profile, but those differences were a touch muted in 2008.  2008 Oestricher Lenchen Rosengarten Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Apricot pit, honeysuckle and mint leaf on the nose.  Luscious tropical fruit is held in check by the crisp, vibrant acidity.  Juicy and dynamic on the finish.  89.  2008 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Subtle aromas of white peach, lemon oil and oyster shell.  Pure, dense APRICOT ?? fruit with finely chiseled minerality.  A touch austere, but this rather stylish wine finishes with excellent length.  90.  2008 Winkler Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Sweet herbs, lemon candy and acacia honey on the nose.  The sweet tropical fruit flavors are kept light by a refreshing, cooling mintiness and bracing minerality.  Quite luscious, long and fun to drink.  88.  2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese 303 ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Rich aromas of lily and cinnamon waft over a hint of musky botrytis.  Impressively rich, almost creamy papaya flavor shows a distinctly velvety texture.  In spite of the wine’s honeyed sweetness, its balance allows complex nuances of WILD HERBS?? to appear on the very long finish. 92.  2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Eiswein Gold Capsule ($??):  Rich gold with green highlights.  Crisp aromas of glazed pineapple, nut oil and aromatic resin.  Rich, dense tropical fruit flavors displays a honeyed texture but are nicely framed and lifted by vibrant acidity.  The long finish combines juicy fruit and salty mineral layers.  94.  Also recommended:  2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (86), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken (87), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Riesling Charta (87), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese (89),2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Auslese (89), 2008 Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Auslese (90), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (92), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Beerenauslese (92), 2008 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling TBA (93), 2008 Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Eiswein (90).  Other wines tasted:  Also tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Riesling.  (Terry Theise)

 

Schloss Vollrads, Oestrich-Winkel.  With its imposing castle perched atop a hillock and surrounded by 150 acres of vineyards, this estate has long been one of the flagships of the Rheingau.  Further, as they produce 500,000 bottles a year, they are well distributed around the world.  Now the investments of the bank that owns the property are beginning to bear fruit, assuring a high level of average quality and good value for money.  And while 2007 was certainly the better year here, the 2008s are all above reproach.  Much of the credit for this development goes to Rowald Hepp, who has managed the property for the past seven years.  2008 Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs Spätlese ($??):  Aromas of white peach, nut oil and lemon balm.  Pure, succulent apricot flavor complemented by a low-keyed spice character.  Tightly strung, classical Rheingau style with appealing length.  89.  2008 Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Fresh peach and lemon oil on the nose.  Bright, clean tangerine fruit with tangy saline minerality.  Nicely balanced.  87.  2008 Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Withdrawn aromas of bosc pear, sweet herbs and lemon zest.  Juicy NECTARINE?? fruit shows a hint of sweetness and a nice salty note.  Well balanced in a somewhat old-fashioned style. 89.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Riesling Feinherb (86), 2008 Riesling Feinherb “Edition” (86), 2008 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (87), 2008 Riesling (86).  Other wines tasted:  Also tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken. (Schmidt & Söhne, Baltimore, MD)

 

Geheimrat J. Wegeler Erben, Oestrich-Winkel.  With their sizeable vineyard holdings, Tom Drieseberg, Michael Burgdorf and Andreas Holderrieth are generally able to bottle more than just a few excellent wines each year.  Although I am surprised that their dry rieslings are not available in America, as they are what you are most likely to see in famous German restaurants, my favorite wine in 2008 was again the delicate Riesling Kabinett from the Schlossberg vineyard, which is certainly one of the finest efforts of the vintage.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Whte peach, mint and lemon oil on the nose.  The palate offers delicate, crisp passion fruit set off by  vibrant spices.  Well-balanced and fun to drink, yet a very serious wine.  89.  2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Delicate aromas of white peach, pear drop and sassafras.  Toasty, creamy texture of apricot skin with a refreshing mint tang.  Nicely balanced spätlese with a slatey minerality ringing on the finish.  90.  2008 Geisenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Auslese ($??): Pale golden yellow.  Aromas of yellow plum, lime zest and black pepper.  Creamy lemon and pineapple fruits weighs a bit heavy on the palate.  This supple auslese boasts a refined elegance, but is hardly more interesting than the more animated spätlese.  90.  Also recommended:  2008 Winkeler Hasensprung Riesling Spätlese Trocken (85), 2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs (88), 2008 Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Erstes Gewächs (88), 2008 Geheimrat J Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2008 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Pur (86), 2008 Geisenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (92).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett Trocken.  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Robert Weil, Kiedrich.  With 75 hectares of vineyards and an annual production of over 500,000 bottles this estate is not only one of the largest in Germany but also one of the best.  While 2007 shone more on the drier side, 2008 brought a bevy of noble late-harvest rieslings that were not only lusciously dense, but also refreshingly light owing to lively acidity.  Athough I describe only one of them below, this estate made three of the top ten stickies this year and one of the finest ausleses to boot.  Perhaps only Keller in Rheinhessen manages the range from dry riesling to trockenbeerenauslese quite as well, but he make only a fraction of the volume, which is why Weil is one of the few wineries in Germany to have an almost branded character, similar to the finest growths in Bordeaux.  2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs ($??):  Aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and lemon zest.  Dense, almost exotic fruit with an oyster shell spiciness and a touch of hyacinth.  In spite of the sheer weight this wine literally dances across the palate.  Excellent finish.  91.  2008 Riesling Kabinett ($??):  Subtle aromas of ripe peach, lemon oil and nettles.  Crisp star fruit flavor enlivened by vibrant spice.  Well-balanced and fun to drink.  87.  2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese ($??):  High-toned aromas of glazed apricot, cinnamon and vanilla .  Rich, full-bodied papaya flavor is complicated by mineral salts and kept fresh by a spicy crispness. Classic!  92.  2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (auction wine):  Candied pineapple, roasted pine nut and a hint of vanilla mingle with brown spice botrytis on the nose.  The sweet, weighty tropical fruit flavors flow creamily over the palate.  An exalted nectar of an extremely classical style, sensual and long, this is one the finest ausleses of the vintage.  94.  2007 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeernauslese ($??):  Rich golden yellow.  Exuberant aromas of caramelized peach, quince preserves and oyster shell on a bed of honeyed botrytis.  Incredibly density, creaminess and richness paired with a juicy, almost salty tanginess.  WITH SUCCULENT CARAMEL FLAVORS AND HONEYED TEXTURE, THIS WINE IS - ??  In spite of its depth and weight - still impressively elegant.  With its palate-saturating length, this is one of the great wines of the vintage.  96.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Kiedricher Klosterberg Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken (89), 2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken (89), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Spätlese (89), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Auslese (90), 2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese (92), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Beerenauslese (94), 2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (94), 2008 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Beerenauslese Gold Capsule (95), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (95).  (Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR)

 

Rheinhessen

 

                “If you like refreshing acidity paired with elegance, 2008 is one of the best vintages in recent history,” says Klaus-Peter Keller, who again tops the charts in Rheinhessen.  Few of the wines have the creamy depth of the 2007s, nor are they as consistent across the board, but the finest have more nerve and are more intriguing and seductive.  That said, too few estates in Rheinhessen took full advantage of the natural potential of the vintage.  Those that harvested too early—and they were the large majority—seldom made more than so-so wines, and these were often tainted by bitter, green acidity.

 

                In total, I tasted wines from 134 estates in Rheinhessen this year.  There was seldom the sheer excitement that you find, say, on the Mosel, but the quality level is now, in spite of the vintage, far more consistent than in the past and generally quite appealing.  Further, the dry wines that are becoming more popular not only in Germany but also in a number of export markets are better here than most of those you can find on the Mittelrhein, Ruwer or Saar.  The same revolution is now taking place here that began in the Pfalz over ten years ago.

 

                Some serious wine drinkers still look down their noses at Rheinhessen as the home of Liebfraumilch, but the region’s reputation has risen considerably over the past decade. Although not from the classical Rheinfront near Nierstein, Keller, Wittmann and Wagner-Stempel are the tip of an iceberg that is slowly emerging.  While Battenfeld-Spanier, Dreissigacker and Kühling-Gillot are now beginning to make names for themselves, Gutzler, St. Antony?? [or Sankt?? BOTH ARE CORRECT. SANKT MEANS SAINT AND St. IS THE ABBREVIATION. THEY WRITE ST. ANTONY ON THE LABEL] and Winter are waiting in the wings.  Moreover, there are numerous other properties that barely appear on the radar screen outside of Germany, but let me mention briefly a handful of the best in alphabetical order in the following paragraphs.

 

                Friederich Groebe (Magellan) in Biebersheim has a very individual style, which is often difficult to understand in its youth.  The wines age well but need time.  This year, I liked his 2008 Westhofener Aulerde Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88), but scored the Riesling Grosses Gewächs from the neighboring Kirchspiel site slightly higher.

 

                From humble beginnings, Gerhard and Michael Gutzler (Truly Fine Wine, San Diego, CA) in Gundheim have slowly emerged as serious players in Rheinhessen, with 2008 perhaps being the best vintage I have ever tasted here.  The 2008 Wormser Liebfrauenstift Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (90) and 2007 Westhofener Morstein Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs (91) are both first class, while the entry-level wines are better than ever.  A repeat performance next year will guarantee this estate full coverage in these pages.

 

                While Ernst Fauth from the Seehof estate in Westhofen has long been known for his sweet wines, the 2008 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (87) provided an attractive glimpse at his drier side.  Jonannes Geil-Bierschenk at Oekonomierat Johannes Geil I. Erben (Terry Theise) remains consistent, with his 2008 Bechtheimer Geyersberg Silvaner Spätlese Trocken “S” (87) being my call among the dry wines.  A surprise last year, Jürgen Hoffmann in Appenheim, on the northern stretches of Rheinhessen near Bingen, turned in another fine performance, with his 2008 Grüner Silvaner Trocken “S” (88) and 2008 Appenheimer Hundertgulden Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89) both showing considerable promise.

 

                While few of the old estates in Nierstein retain even a shadow of their former glory, producers like Dieter and Daniel Huff from Gustav Adolf Huff are beginning to find more light in their place. I liked both their 2008 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (87) and 2008 Niersteiner Schloss Scwabsburg Riesling Auslese (88).  Eric Manz in Weinolsheim is best known for his luscious late-harvest offerings, but his 2008 Grüner Silvaner Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (88) and 2008 Weinolsheimer Kerz Riesling Spätlese Trocken  (88) prove that his dry wines can merit serious attention as well.  The same is true of Christian Petz (PETH IS CORRECT)?? from Peth-Wetz in Bermersheim with his Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Auslese Trocken (87).  Erik Riffel in Bingen also had another fine vintage, culminating in his 2008 Binger Scharlachberg Turm Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89).

 

                Sankt?? Antony ( I ALWAYS WRITE SANKT ANTONY FIRST AND THEN ABBREVIATE. A GERMAN WOULD ALWAYS PRONOUNCE THE NAME SANKT ANTONY NOT SAINT ANTONY) is, with Gutzler, the other true success story of the current vintage, and one that is probably only just beginning to be told.  Detlev Meyer purchased this estate a couple years ago, then took a long-term lease on Heyl zu Herrnsheim and moved the two together into the old Gustav Adolf Schmitt cellars near the Rhine.  Currently, he also has plans to build a spectactular new winery nearby.  In Felix Peters he found the right young gentleman to spearhead the quality development.  The three Riesling Grosses Gewächs from the Oelberg (88), Orbel (89) and Pettenthal (89) sites show that he is on the right track.  If the 2009s are equally good, this estate will also merit full coverage in these pages next year.

 

                Another surprise from the Wonnegau has been the emergence over the past two vintages of Stefan Winter in little-known Dittelsbach.  The dry rieslings from both the Geyersberg (88) and Leckerberg (89) site are well-hewn and still reasonably priced.  Although Winter may not have the sheer vineyard potential, he is thought by many to be one of the most talented young winemakers of the new generation.

 

                Although even Champagne is suffering in the American market at present, let me briefly mention in closing German sparkling wines.  Volker Raumland (Rudi Wiest) in Flörsheim-Dalsheim in the southern part of Rheinhessen is probably making the best méthode champenoise in all of Germany.  His 2005 Triumvirat (92) was again one of my three favorite German sparkling wines this year; his 2004 Chardonnay Sekt Brut Prestige (91) and 2004 Pinot Sekt Brut Prestige (90), both also in my top ten, confirm his talent.  There are few producers in Champagne working this consistently across such a wide range.

 

Battenfeld-Spanier, Hohen-Sülzen.  Few wine lovers had ever heard of Hohen-Sülzen before Hans Oliver Spanier put the Kirchenstück and Frauenberg sites at the far southern end of Rheinhessen near the border to the Pfalz on the map.  Although he had been making interesting wines for years, Spanier’s excellent rieslings from the difficult 2006 vintage caused skeptics of his organic methods, spontaneous fermentations and use of large oak casts to sit up and take note.  He is now in his second year of biodynamic viticulture; the 2008s are the purest rieslings he has bottled to date and prove that his admission to the VDP was not a fluke.  2008 Hohen-Sülzer (THIS IS CORRECT. THE VILLAGE IS HOHEN-SÜLZEN, WHICH BECOMES HOHEN-SÜLZER AS AN ADJECTIVE)?? Riesling Trocken ($??):  Subtle aromas of white peach and wild herbs.  Bright persimmon fruit adds spice to the palate.  Juicy and slightly musky on the finish.  87.  2008 Hohen-Sülzer?? Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Apricot pit, smoked meat and lime on the nose.  Refined and juicy in texture, with a passion fruit flavor complicated by salty minerality.  Crisp, bright acidity enlivens the finish.  90.  2008 Flörsheimer Frauenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Succulent aromas of nectarine, smoked meat and herbal spices.  Deep on the palate, with an intense flavor of cling peach and a velvety texture.  Complex spices unfold in perfect clarity on the long, animated finish.  Offers excellent potential.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Weissburgunder Trocken (85), 2008 Hohen-Sülzer Weissburgunder (87), 2008 Hohen-Sülzer Grüner Sylvaner Trocken (88), 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Mölsheimer Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Hohen-Sülzer Kirchenstück Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (91), 2007 Pinot Noir (85), 2007 Hohen-Sülzer Kirchenstück Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs (88).  (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY) 

 

Dreissigacker, Bechtheim.  Of the numerous villages in the Wonnegau, Bechtheim has long enjoyed a good reputation but has been eclipsed of late by neighboring Westhofen.  Much of that has to do, though, with the quality of wine made by the best producers in the two villages.  In Bechtheim, there has been a shift in the pecking order, with Jochen Dreissigacker and, to a lesser extent, Jürgen Spiess slowly emerging as the dominant players.  These wines may not have the genius of the finest in Westhofen, but they certainly have charm.  And since 2007, they are certified “green.”  2008 Weisser Burgunder Einzigacker  ($??):  White peach and almond on the nose.  The pineapple fruit is given a crisp texture by the wine’s refreshing acidity.  More Chablis than Meursault, this wine finishes with appealing lightness.  88.  2008 Bechtheimer Rosengarten Riesling Trocken ($??):  Aromas of apricot, lichee and honeysuckle.  Refined and velvety on the palate, with crisp pear flavor framed by zesty acidity.  A salty minerality on the finish gives this wine added dimension.  89.  2008 Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling Trocken ($??):  Exuberant aromas of ripe apricot, wild herbs and sweet lime.  Crisp nectarine fruit and succulent texture are juxtaposed here in perfect clarity.  A touch austere, but pleasingly spicy on the finish.  90.  Also recommended:  2008 Bechtheimer Silvaner Trocken (87), 2008 Grauburgunder Trocken (86), 2008 Westhofener Chardonnay Trocken (87), 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Bechtheimer Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Bechtheimer Hasensprung Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Bechtheimer Stein Riesling Auslese (90), 2008 Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (90), 2008 Bechtheimer Heiligkreuz Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese (90), 2007 St. Laurent (87), 2007 Bechtheimer Geyersberg Pinot Noir (88).  (Wine Symphony, New York, NY)

 

Gunderloch, Nackenheim.  Few producers have done more to promote German wines abroad than Fritz Hasselbach, whose label can be found in the four corners of the world.  The last of the traditional estates along the famous Roter Hang (red slope) north of Nierstein to still make excellent wine, his star, too, appeared to fading, but my first look at the 2008s brought cause for hope, reminding me of days of yore.  If the spätlese, auslese and upwards that I have yet to taste are of similar quality, there is legitimate cause for joy in Nackenheim.  2008 Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Restrained aromas of white peach, quince and lime.  Succulent citrus fruit flavors show just enough weight to balance the crisp acidity.  Clean on the finish, but this young wine only hints at its potential today. 88+.  2008 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Candied peach, herbal spices and persimmon on the nose.  The rich apricot fruit and crisp texture remain taut on the palate.  Possesses good weight but is still youthfully closed.  89.  Also recommended: 2008 Silvaner Trocken (85), 2008 Niersteiner Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Jean Baptiste (85).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Keller, Flörsheim-Dalsheim.  After his show-stopping 2007s, Klaus-Peter Keller left himself little wiggle room to improve in 2008.  It is true that there was not the wealth of noble late-harvest wines this year that 2007 brought in abundance, but a number of those?? [2008?? YES] offerings are nonetheless at the top of their class in all of Germany.  This estate, however, makes no bones about its commitment to dry wines.  And they are, at least in their consistency at the entry level, better than ever before.  The precision with which Keller underlines the individual style of each vineyard site at the high end was already beyond reproach.  Now, his French clonal material for pinot noir is beginning to mature in the vineyard, and he hopes to give the masters of that discipline a run for their money in the near future too.  After broadening his vineyard holdings in Westhofen, Keller has now set his sights on Nierstein, where an enormous potential still lies untapped.  As no one in Germany is so accomplished in so many endeavors, he is likely to succeed there as well.

2008 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Elegant aromas of white peach, pine nuts and lime.  Crisp structure, fine weight?? and an invigorating nectarine flavor animate the palate. Salty minerality provides charm and extends the finish.  This is the most feminine of the estate’s dry rieslings and one of the most approachable in its youth.  91.  2008 Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Ethereal aromas of apricot pit, lemon oil and pine nuts.  Crisp, fresh and light, this wine has what many dry rieslings lack:  nerve, poise and balance.  The salty minerality is elegant and persistent, the spice penetrating and the finish extremely long.  This is my favorite of the estate’s dry rieslings to drink today.  92.  2008 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Rich aromas of ripe apricot, dried almond, candied lime and smoke.  The wine’s opulent texture and unctuously ripe peach flavor are balanced by a subtle acid structure that should enable this riesling to develop in bottle.  A persistent ginger spiciness lingers on the finish.  Rather unevolved today, this wine should look better a few years down the road. 93.  2008 Riesling Trocken G Max ($??):  Animated aromas of passion fruit, lemon oil and pine nuts.  The dense nectarine fruit and bright acid structure are charming and thought-provoking??.  With its depth, richnes and intriguingly complex finish, this is certainly one of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.  94.  2008 Westhofener Abtserde Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Captivating aromas of nectarine, nut oil and lemon zest.  The succulent apricot fruit and textural richness are kept vibrant by a salty minerality that lingers tantalizingly on the finish. With perfect clarity and impressive intensity, this is a show-stopper.  One of the two or three finest dry rieslings of the vintage!  95.  2008 Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese:  Pale gold.  Elegant aromas of yellow plum, quince and acacia honey.  The succulent tropical fruits and lively acidity remain light and crisp on the palate, so that the wine’s depth is not at first apparent.  This elegant wine finishes with a seductive spice character.  Offers very goood potential.  92.  2008 Westhofener Abtserde Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule (auction wine):  Golden yellow.  Dazzling aromas of yellow plum, vanilla and cinnamon shine through a hint of brown spice botrytis.  The pear fruit extract provides depth??, but is also nicely framed and lifted by vibrant, elegant acidity.  Extremely long, with the finish offering rich spice and noteworthy depth.  The best spätlese from Rheinhessen and one of the finest in Germany.  93.  2008 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Gold Capsule ($??):  Rich gold.  The ethereal aromas of peach nectar, passion fruit, lemon oil and pine nut are almost lost in the herbal botrytis.  Unctuous, sweet and incredibly deep, this wines saturates the palate with spicy minerality.  With its extremely long and lush finish, this fascinating wine is one the great efforts of the vintage!  95.  2007 Pinot Noir “FR” (auction wine):  Full red-ruby.  Rich blackberry, bing cherry and vanilla on the nose.  Sweet, full-bodied boysenberry fruit and ripe tannins animate the palate.  The oak is nicely integrated.  Offers a distinguished personality and noteworthy depth, and finishes with impressive length.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Grauer Burgunder “S”(89), 2008 Weisser Burgunder “S” (90), 2008 Westhofener Scheurebe Trocken (88), 2008 Riesling Trocken Vom Muscheligen Kalk (86), 2008 Westhofener Riesling Trocken (88), 2008 Riesling Trocken Von der Fels (89), 2008 Riesling Trocken “RR”, 2008 Riesling Kabinett Limestone  (87), 2008 Westhofener Abtserde Riesling Auslese Auction Wine (92), 2008 Monsheimer Silberberg Rieslaner Beerenauslese (94), 2008 Monsheimer Silberberg Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese (95), 2007 Spätburgunder “S” (89), 2007 Dalsheimer Bürgel Pinot Noir Felix Grosses Gewächs (91).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken.  (Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA)

 

Kühling-Gillot, Bodenheim.  Over the past four vintages this estate has begun to emerge from its peers along the Rheinfront, that small stretch of red slate vineyards sloping down to the Rhine across from the Rheingau.  While the 2007 Pettenthal Grosses Gewächs was perhaps the single most stunning wine made here in the past couple of years, 2008 is the more consistent vintage across the board, with the “simple” Nierstein Riesling providing the best value for money.  Now married to Hans Oliver Spanier from the Battenfeld-Spanier estate further south in Rheinhessen, Carolin Spanier-Gillot and her husband are becoming a formidable pair.  As I wrote last year, with its park, Jugendstil villa and new tasting room, this is an estate to visit if you are traveling along the Rhine.  2008 Niersteiner Riesling Trocken ($??):  Tangerine and lemon on the nose.  Firm and bright, with a bittersweet note that adds interest to the PASSION FRUIT?? flavor.  The juicy finish features slightly smoky spices.  88.  2008 Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Bright aromas of apricot, persimmon and herbal spice.  With ripe nectarine fruit and crisp minerality, this riesling shows good weight and character, but lacks the distinguished complexity of the Pettenthal.  89.  2008 Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  White peach, pine nuts and lemon oil on the nose.  The palate offers a refined texture, with pure apricot fruit framed by zesty acidity.  An almost salty minerality on the finish will assure this wine a long life.  90.  Also recommended:  2008 Scheurebe Trocken Qvinterra (86), 2008 Gewürztraminer Feinherb Qvinterra (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken Qvinterra (85), 2008 Oppenheimer Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Oppenheimer Sackträger Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Oppenheimer Sackträger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (90), 2008 Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (91), 2007 Bodenheimer Burgweg Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs (89).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Grauburgunder Trocken Qvinterra.  (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY)

 

Wagner-Stempel, Siefersheim.  While the warmer 2007 vintage brought a creamy richness to the wines of this estate located in the northwestern corner of Rheinhessen near the Nahe in a region known locally as Little Switzerland, the 2008s are far more classical.  Grown at comparatively high altitudes on stony, quarzite soils layered with porphyry, their nervous poise, steely character and salty acidic backbone are closer in style to those of Tim Fröhlich than of Klaus-Peter Keller.  For those who shy away from crisp acidity, these wines will improve markedly with bottle age.  2008 Siefersheimer Riesling Trocken vom Porphyr ($??):  White peach and oyster shell on the nose.  The bright star fruit flavor reflectsIS FRAMED BY?? the salty minerality on the palate.  Crisp, clean and appealing.  88.  2008 Siefersheimer Höllberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Bright aromas of tangerine, wild herbs and lemon zest.  Dense honeydew melon flavor displays plenty of buoyancy. An exotic MINERAL?? acidity adds spice to the bright, clean finish.  89.  2008 Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Apricot stone, pine nuts and lemon oil on the nose.  Spicy nectarine fruit shows plenty of flesh as well as nerve.  The wine’s salty minerality and animated finish should give it long life.  90.  2008 Siefersheimer Höllberg Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Warm aromas of yellow plum, redcurrant and clove.  Rich and savory, this ??SUPPLE spatlese shows both depth and elegance.  Good extract and exotic STEELY?? acidity will keep it alive for years.  90.  2008 Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Enticing aromas of ripe peach, smoked almond and fennel.  Luxuriantly sumptuous nectarine flavor is framed and enlivened by bracing acidity.  Long and spicy on the finish, this is a a tantalizing spätlese.  91.  2008 Siefersheimer Höllberg Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale gold.  Luscious aromas of ripe plum, candied pineapple and ginger dominate a hint of smoky botrytis.  Peach nectar, tobacco and licorice share the stage on the rich but juicy middle palate.  Finishes spicy, deep and long, with a palate-saturating flavor of candied lemon.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Silvaner Trocken (85), 2008 Siefersheimer Silvaner Trocken (88), 2008 Weisser Burgunder Trocken (85), 2008 Siefersheimer Weisser Burgunder (87), 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Trocken (89), 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Eiswein (93).  (Terry Theise)

 

Wittmann, Westhofen.  Neither Philip Wittmann nor his father preach organic viticulture from the pulpit, but since 1990 theirs is one of the oldest certified estates in Germany.  Since 2003, they have moved on to biodynamics with equally little pomp and circumstance.  As they are renowned for their majestic dry rieslings, many overlook their silvaner and pinot blanc, both of which can be excellent as well.  At the head of the 2008 collection are two stunning Grosses Gewächs.  While I prefer the elegance of the Brunnenhäuschen today, the Morstein is certainly the better wine over the long haul.  2008 Westhofener Kirschspiel Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Wild aromas of apricot, vanilla and lime oil.  The bright guava fruit is elegant and fascinatingly complex.  With alluring spice on a long, seductive finish, this is the most flattering of the Grosses Gewächs to drink in its youth.  91.  2008 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Vineyard peach, sweet lime and cinnamon on the exuberant nose.  The intense depth of passion fruit and perfectly balanced acidity embrace?? the palate. With its combination of sheer weight and uplifting spice on the finish, this is the most masculine of all these grand crus and certainly the wine with the most potential.  92(+?).  2008 Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Subtle aromas of apricot pit, pine nuts and laurel.  The intriguing papaya fruit has both depth and elegance.  A wine of enormous complexity, displaying spicy weight in the middle palate but an ethereal lightness on the finish.  Is this truly the best of the three or is it just showing especially well today?  93.  2008 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Spätlese ($??):  Pale golden yellow.  Fine aroma of passion fruit, lime oil and herbal spice.  The subtle peach fruit marries nicely with the salty minerality and keeps the wine refreshingly light.  Serious yet seductive on the back end.  90.  2008 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Auslese ($??):  Pale gold.  Wild plum, vanilla and pine nuts over a hint of licorice botrytis on the nose.  The rich tropical fruits are animated by a lively acidity that keep the palate fresh.  With good weight and supple texture, this wine finishes on a spicy note.  91.  Also recommended:  2008 Westhofener Silvaner Trocken (88), 2008 Weissburgunder Trocken (85), 2008 Weisser Burgunder “S” (89), 2008 Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Westhofener Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Westhofenener Aulerde Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Westhofenener Morstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (89).  (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY)

 

Pfalz

 

                The first sign of rot near summer’s end in 2008, in particular in the Mittelhaardt, was enough to snap the nerves of many producers.  Numerous estates had finished harvesting by late September, long before the more serious winemakers had even begun.  That said, even those who waited were not blessed with the high must weights seen in 2007, but instead with rieslings of “concentrated lightness” [whose words?? BETTINA BÜRKLIN] and refreshing minerality.  Fortunately, there were very few blockbusters with 14% alcohol, as in some recent vintages, and rather more bright acidity to enliven the palate.  Further, many estates are now fermenting their rieslings to full dryness.

 

                Although some importers in the States still carry a selection of sweeter rieslings from the Pfalz—wines that are almost never seen in Germany—more and more are bringing in dry wines these days.  And that is how it should be, for the Pfalz is known principally for its dry rieslings.  Some of the better estates no longer even make sweet kabinetts or spätleses.

 

                Given the fact that many producers had finished the crush by late September, a bitter, green thread still runs through a lot of the white wines.  The 2008s are not as consistently good as the 2007s, but the best stand just as tall, albeit in a different style—one that I often find more drinkable, at least in the early going. The 2007s, however, may be the better wines for the distance.

 

                Although few American importers carry weissburgunder (pinot blanc), it is a variety that consumers should take more seriously when thinking of the Pfalz.  While in many parts of the world pinot blanc is at best a refreshing wine to quaff, it can be excellent in the southern Palatinate.  With a few notable exceptions, however, 2008 was not a great vintage for this variety.

 

                Similarly, although German red wine is only slowly becoming an export item, I have included a number of the better examples below.  In fact, 40% of the vineyard area in the Pfalz is now planted with red grapes, and pinot noir from the southern part of the region near the Alsatian border can be exceptional, with wines from Fritz Becker, Willi Bernhart or even Knipser in the north easily mistaken for Burgundy in blind tastings.  Because 2007 (which is only just now coming onto the market) is the best pinot noir year many Pfalz producers have ever had, now may be the time to try a bottle or two.

 

                Although his style is often austere in its youth, Rebholz is still the man to beat in the Pfalz, but competition is fierce. Knipser is hard at his heels and for dry riesling no one can match the breadth and depth of Bürklin-Wolf’s range in 2008.  Among the 18 estates given full coverage below, the only change from last year is Faubel replacing Siegrist in the line-up.  But beyond the stars of the region there is an exceptionally long list of reliable producers making interesting wines, often at very reasonable prices.

 

                I tasted wines from over 150 estates this past summer and was again impressed by the sheer number of good wines from numerous less-known producers in what was certainly a very good but difficult vintage for the Pfalz.  In many cases, individual wines from the following twenty-nine estates were every bit as good as some of those from the players given full coverage. The former producers are profiled briefly below in alphabetical order, with six meriting the most serious attention: Bergdolt in Duttweiler, Bernhart in Schweigen, Gies-Düppel and Kleinmann in Birkweiler, Herbert Messmer in Burrweiler and Karl Schäfer in Dürkheim.

 

                While I had expected more of their 2007s, Anna-Barbara Achim and Vincenz Troesch from Achim-Magin in Forst were beyond reproach in 2008.  In fact, with their 2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89) and 2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89), they are beginning to show the true potential of this estate.

 

                Consistent now over the past three vintages, Otto Haass from Benderhof in Kallstadt continues to make fine dry rieslings, with the 2008 Herxheimer Himmelreich Riesling Trocken (87) and, in particular, the 2008 Kallstadter Kreidekeller Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben (90) being my favorites.  His red wines can also be surprisingly good.  Rainer Bergdolt in Duttweiler emerged from the ashes this year.  An estate with an excellent reputation a decade ago, the wines here had seldom been more than good for a number of years, but their 2008 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs (91) and, above all, 2008 Kirrweiler Mandelberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gewächs (92) put them back in the spotlight.  If the 2009s are equally good, this estate will merit full coverage next year.

 

                While Gert Bernhart (ImportANT Wines, Venice, FL) in Schweigen has seldom trumped in white, his 2008 Schweigener Sonnenberg Rädling Weissburgunder Grosses Gewächs (88) showed surprising elegance.  That said, he remains known principally for his excellent pinot noirs, as the 2007 Pinot Noir “R” (90) and the 2007 Schweigener Sonnenberg Rädling Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs (93) heartily attest.  If you are looking for an alternative to Friedrich Becker, this is the place to go.  After the death of Gerhard Biffar in 2004, the estate Josef Biffar (Terry Theise) has been buffeted by the winds.  They still sport an impressing array of vineyards, but have seldom been as consistent as they were before.  However, they always turn out one or two excellent wines.  This year my favorite was the 2008 Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89).

 

                New in these pages this year is Dengler-Seyler in Maikammer, who bottled three white 2008s that I rated 88 points: a pinot blanc, a pinot gris and the riesling Schlangenässel.  The pinot noir is almost as good and shows Matthias Seyler’s steady hand.  Moreover, these wines are all very reasonably priced.  As always, Fitz-Ritter (Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL) in Bad Dürkheim impressed with a 2008 Rieslaner Beerenauslese (94), but his dry 2008 Ungsteiner Kanzel Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88) was also good.  Another pleasant surprise was the estate’s 2008 Dürkheimer Abtsfronhof Gewürztraminer Spätlese (90).

 

                Karl-Heinz Gaul in Sausenheim continues to be one of the most consistent producers not given full coverage in these pages.  His Neuleininger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese “KD” Trocken (90) was perhaps slightly better than the non-dry Riesling Spätlese “KD” (89) from the same site.  He also made an excellent red wine, a 2007 St. Laurent (89) from vineyards in the neighboring Sausenheimer Honigsack site.  A major surprise last year was his neighbor and namesake Matthias Gaul in Asselheim, whose 2008s were again fine, if not so outstanding.  Consistent across the board, a 2008 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Trocken (89) topped the bill, along with a 2007 Cabernet Franc (89).

 

                At the southern end of the Palatinate, Volker Gies from Gies-Düppel in Birkweiler had another fine vintage, excelling in three disciplines, with his 2008 riesling, 2008 pinot blanc and 2007 pinot noir, all from the Kastanienbusch vineyard, each garnering 90 points.  This is an estate to watch.  Christian Heussler in Rhodt, a beautiful village in the southern Palatinate, shone with a 2008 Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken Granit (90), as did Immengarten Hof in Maikammer with both its 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Bundsandstein (91) and 2007 Syrah (90).  Johannes Kleinmann in Birkweiler is another producer from the southern Palatinate who is gradually making his mark.  While his rieslings can be first class, it was his 2008 Birkweiler Mandelberg Weisser Burgunder Spätlese Trocken Signatur (90) and 2008 Chardonnay (90) from the same site that I ranked as his best wines this year.

 

                The talented Boris Kranz in neighboring Ilbesheim also had another outstanding year.  After 2007s that were better than anything I had ever tasted here, the 2008s were perhaps even a tad better, culminating in the 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Kalmit (91) and 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Kalmit Terrassen (93).  Were he from a better-known village, there would be a great deal more talk about his wines.  After a number of vintages that were less than stellar, Gregor Messmer from Herbert Messmer (Terry Theise) in Burrweiler has bounced back with excellent wines in both 2007 and 2008.  I rated nine wines from the current line up with 88 points and more, with the 2008 Burrweiler Schäwer Riesling Grosses Gewächs (90), 2008 Chardonnay (91) and 2007 St. Laurent (90) being my favorites.  This house probably again merits full coverage.

 

                Kurt and Stephan Müller from Eugen Müller (Terry Theise) in Forst have always produced nice wines at affordable prices.  The 2008 Forster Freudenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87) is again well made, but I had hoped that they would bottle a more impressive wine from their magnificent Kirchenstück vineyard.  Günter and Rainer Kessler from Münzberg in Godramstein almost always bottle a few full-throttle wines.  This year they were the 2008 Chardonnay (90) and 2008 Godramsteiner Münzberg Schlangenpfiff Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gewächs (90).  If the entry-level wines here were better, this estate would have a more avid following.

 

                At the opposite end of the region, in the northern Palatinate, Axel Neiss from Ludi Neiss (T. Edward Wines, New York, NY) in Kindenheim continues at a fine pace.  His 2008 Bockenheimer Heiligenkirche Riesling Trocken (89) and 2008 Kindenheimer Burgweg Riesling Trocken Premium (90) were both impressive this year.  Karl Pfaffmann in Walsheim was traditionally not so successful with riesling, but both his 2008 Nussdorfer Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89) and 2008 Walsheimer Silberberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (91) were surprising this year.  With their considerable volume and attractive prices, it is odd that his wines are not more widely available.

 

                Steffen and Andreas Rings are another pair of rising talents in the northern part of the Palatinate.  The crop of 2008s was perhaps not as consistent across the board as the 2007s, but the 2008 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Trocken (91) more than proves their mettle.

 

                Although 2008 was a touch irregular everywhere, even lesser-known producers like Heiner Sauer in Böchingen also bottled a selection of above-average wines, with the 2008 Nussdorfer Herrenberg Gewürztraminer Spätlese Trocken (89) and, surprisingly, his 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (89) highlighting the potential of this estate.

 

                Karl Schaefer in Bad Dürkheim was long one of my favorite producers in the Pfalz.  After lackluster performances over the past few years, 2008 marks a return to previous glory. The 2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs (90) and 2008 Dürkheimer Michelsberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs (91) spearheaded a line-up that also includes a well-made late-harvest wine with residual sugar, the 2008 Dürkheimer Spielberg Riesling Spätlese Schöne Anna (90).  In the same village, I also liked Egon Schmitt’s 2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Trocken Ausblick Gold Capsule (89).

 

                Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt has now gone far beyond his status as a newcomer and currently cultivates 120 acres of vineyards at the northern end of the Mittelhaardt.  Unusual names, a modern label and a self-assured bearing are certainly part of the success story, but the wines speak for themselves, as the 2008 Dürkheimer Nonnengarten Rielsing Trocken (90) and 2006 Tailor (91), a red wine blend, amply prove.

 

                Even further north, the Schumacher estate in Herxheimer am Berg was again more than successful.  My favorite white was the 2008 Herxheimer Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese Trocken Garten (89), but the true surprise this year was their 2007 Pinot Noir “RR” (93) from the same site, which was one of the best red wines of the vintage.

 

                Siegrist in Leinsweiler (Truly Fine Wine, San Diego, CA) is one of the “five friends” [explain?? MARKETING INITIATIVE WITH REBHOLZ; BECKER; WEHRHEIM...] in the southern Palatinate.  His Leinsweiler Sonnenberg Riesling Trocken (87) is always good, but the entry-level offerings do not stand out among the numerous other aspiring estates.  The just-released 2007 Chardonnay Spätlese Trocken  (90) was the best wine among the 14 that I tasted here this year.

 

                Since son Markus joined the family business in 2007, the old Heinrich Spindler estate (Miskeit Wines, New York, NY) in Forst has gone from strength to strength.  After surprisingly good 2007s, the pair again made a handful of excellent dry rieslings this year, with the 2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90) and 2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken (91) leading the fray.  Keep an eye on this producer.

 

                Weather conditions have dealt Stefanie Weegmüller (Sussex Wine Merchants) in Haardt difficult hands in several recent vintages.  After hail in 2006, 2008 was again against all odds. A RACE AGAINST THE MOTHER NATURE??  She made little or no dry spätlese as she normally would, with a 2008 Haardter Heerenletten Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87) topping her riesling offerings.  My favorite wine, though, was the 2008 Scheurebe Spätlese (89) from the same site.

 

                Although Herbert Roth from Wilhelmshof in Siebeldingen is principally known in Germany for his excellent sparkling wines made in the Champagne fashion, his dry still wines from those same grapes can be impressive:  witness the 2008 weissburgunder (89), 2008 grauburgunder (89) and 2007 spätburgunder (90), all from his Siebeldinger im Sonnenschein vineyards.  Another young producer that I have been following is Jürgen Zimmermann in Wachenheim.  Not only was his dry 2008 Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88) well made, he also understands late-harvest wines, as his 2008 Wachenheimer Fuchsmantel Riesling Auslese (91) and Gewürztraminer Spätlese (92) convincingly prove.

 

Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Deidesheim.  Bassermann-Jordan has certainly been one of the most consistent producers of fine dry rieslings in all of Germany over the past decade.  The budding renaissance of this venerable estate began just over ten years ago when the last of the Bassermann line hired winemaker Ulrich Mell, who immediately began breathing new life into the wines.  Since 2002, the new owner Achim Niederberger has invested heavily in both vineyards and cellars, which has permitted the estate to regain its historic status.  The Grosses Gewächs in 2008 are all not only topnotch, but markedly better than the standard wines, which is not at all surprising in a difficult vintage like 2008.  It is odd, though, that so few of the dry wines are on sale in the States.  2008 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Bright aromas of white peach, honeysuckle and nutmeg.  The pure, tropical fruit flavors and velvety texture are nicely complemented by refreshing acidity.  Rich, succulent and long on the aftertaste, this riesling has the makings of a thoroughbred.  90.  2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Dried apricot, wild herbs and mineral salts on the nose.  The brothy peach fruit is cut clean by the wine’s pungent, minerally acidity.  Austere but impressive on the finish, this is a style I like to drink.  91.  2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Inviting aromas of muskmelon, basil and fig.  The sweet, glossy apricot fruit is kept bright by chalky acidity.  Crisp, clean and spicy on the finish, with aristocratic length.  May well gain in stature with bottle age.  91.  2008 Goldmuskateller Eiswein ($??? for 375 ml.): Rich golden yellow.  Wild aromas of cling peach, hazelnut and acacia blossom.  The crisp, sweet pear flavor is nicely juxtaposed with vibrant minerality.  A lively spiciness animates the finish. Well-defined and delicately balanced wine with superb depth and enthralling length. 94.  Also recommended:  2008 Weissburgunder Trocken “S” (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken “Probus” (86+?), 2008 Forster Herrgottsacker Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken Auf der Mauer (87), 2008 Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling Grosses Gewächs (91), 2008 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Auslese (88), 2008 Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (91).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Chardonnay Trocken “R”.  (Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK)

 

Friedrich Becker, Schweigen.  For the seventh straight year, Fritz Becker has made not only Germany’s finest pinot noir but three of its best red wines from 2007, arguably the greatest vintage this estate has ever bottled.  The only other pinot noir producer in the country who can hold a candle to Fritz, as he is called by friends, and his son of the same name, is Bernhard Huber from Baden.  In Germany itself, the top wine below is the only one sold with the French name, pinot noir; all the rest are labelled spätburgunder, which is the German word for the same variety.  If you have never heard of this estate, buy one of the Grosses Gewächs below and compare it blind with a 2007 grand cru from Burgundy.  You won’t be disappointed.  2007 Pinot Noir “B” ($??): Ruby-red.  Blackberry and candied cherry on the nose.  Full-bodied, sweet berry fruit offers pleasing depth and verve.  Finishes with ripe tannins and good length.  88.  2007 Schweigener Kammerberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Full red-ruby.  Spicy aromas of raspberry, clove and vanilla. Rich blackberry fruit caresses the palate, which remains elegant in spite of the wine’s considerable depth.  With its distinctive personality, ripe tannins and impressive length, this is  a show-stopper.  93.  2007 Schweigener Sonnenberg Sankt Paul Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Dark red.  Complex aromas of black cherry, wild strawberry and juniper.  The unctuous blackberry fruit and rich velvety texture flesh out the sweet tannins.  A wine of sensuous depth, seamless and extremely long on the finish.  One of the finest red wines of the vintage. 95.  2007 Pinot Noir ($??):  Brilliant ruby.  Sensuous aromas of raspberry, chocolate and thyme.  Elegantly concentrated and harmoniously balanced, with layers of wild berry fruit and spicy complexity.  The lacy cinnamon quality and sleek tannins are reminiscent of Echezeaux.  With its superb depth and exquisite length, this is the finest pinot noir of the vintage and one of the best I have ever tasted from Germany.  97.  Also recommended:  2008 Muskateller (85), 2008 Riesling Laissez Faire (87), 2008 Pinot Gris Kalkmergel (86), 2008 Pinot Blanc Kalkgestein (86), 2008 Pinot Blanc In der Enggasse (88), 2007 Pinot Blanc Halbstück (90), 2007 Chardonnay (93), 2007 Spätburgunder Kalkgestein (89), 2007 Spätburgunder Herrschaftswingert (90), 2007 Spätburgunder Steinwingert (91), 2007 Spätburgunder Herrschaftswingert SL (92), 2007 Spätburgunder Reserve (94).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Silvaner.  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Reichsrat von Buhl, Deidesheim.  Since this property’s purchase by Achim Niederberger, who also owns Dr. Deinhard and Dr. Bassermann-Jordan, the experienced team of Werner Sebastian in the vineyards and Michael Leibrecht in the cellars have begun to resurrect this old estate’s reputation.  Two thousand seven was the finest vintage I had tasted here in ages. The 2008s are perhaps more delicate, and certainly more refreshing, but do not have quite the depth of their predecessors.  2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Herbal aromas of apricot, bay leaf and mineral salts.  Taut pit fruit flavors are framed by a chalky acidity and an almost salty finish.  Still closed, but has the potential to develop gracefully.  89.  2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewächs:  Apricot pit, quince and honeysuckle on the nose.  Rich, juicy peach pit flavor enlivened by bright citrus acidity.  Compelling riesling, and very nicely balanced on the long finish.  My favorite dry riesling from this cellar.  91.  2008 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Beerenauslese ($?? for 375 ml.):  91.

Also recommended:  2008 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken “FP Buhl” (88), 2008 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88),2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese (88),2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Auslese (87), 2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Beerenauslese (90), 2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Beerenauslese (91).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken.  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Wachenheim.  Since 1995 this estate has consistently produced some of the finest dry rieslings of any given vintage in all of Germany, but never has it stood so far above its peers as in 2008.  Blessed with excellent vineyards, the estate certainly stepped up to the plate with a large bat, but the winemaking team has hedged its bets by actively embracing biodynamic viticulture for almost a decade in order to allow each vineyard to express itself more clearly.  Although the estate now presents its wines as Grosses Gewächs, it still uses its own labelling system, with PC hinting at premier cru and GC at grand cru status.  From the Gaisböhl GC they also release back vintages to show how well these rieslings age, with 2007, 2003 and 1997 currently available in America.  2008 Ruppertsberger Hoheburg Riesling Trocken PC ($??):  Aromas of white peach, persimmon and pine nuts.  Refined apricot fruit with a hint of smoked almonds and discreet minerality dominate the palate.  A touch old-fashioned in style, but with pleasant length.  89.  2008 Wachenheimer Rechbächel Riesling Trocken PC ($??):  Slightly herbal aromas of white peach, woodsmoke and mint.  The palate features vibrant peach pit flavor and spicy minerality.  Cool, minty finish shows good length.  Still a bit closed.  90.  2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Trocken GC ($??):  Succulent aromas of melon, clove and mineral salts.  The delicate, peachy fruit, salty minerality and bright acidity are nicely interwoven on the palate.  Well-balanced wine, with a savory finish that brings nut oils and a sophisticated finesse into play. With its outstanding length, this is one of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.  94.  2008 Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling Trocken GC ($??):  Ripe apricot, sweet herbs, hazelnut and lemon oil on the seductive nose.  The sleek but glossy?? peach fruit is kept in check by an understated yet ever-present chalky acidity.  Rich in both depth and elegance, and impressively long, this is another of the great dry rieslings of the vintage.  94.  2008 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken GC ($??):  Exotic aromas of yellow plum, tobacco, muskmelon, brioche and lemon oil.  Rich and creamy in texture, with the impressive depth of peach pit flavor that’s typical of this outstanding site.  With expansive clove spice on the finish and enormous length, this is the finest dry riesling of the vintage and one of the greatest young rieslings I have ever tasted.  96. (THE HIGHEST SCORE I HAVE EVER GIVEN FOR A DRY RIESLING)??  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Ruppertsberger Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Wachenheimer Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Wachenheimer Böhlig Riesling Trocken “PC” (87), 2008 Wachenheimer Goldbächel Riesling Trocken “PC” (88), 2008 Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Trocken “PC” (88), 2008 Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling Trocken “PC” (90), 2008 Wachenheimer Altenburg Riesling Trocken “PC” (90), 2008 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Trocken “GC” (92), 2008 Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Trocken “GC” (93), 2008 Forster Riesling Auslese (93).  (Europvin USA, Van Nuys, CA)

 

A. Christmann, Gimmeldingen.  Two thousand eight is arguably Steffen Christmann’s best vintage since 2004—and as the president of the VDP he sets his sights high.  Knowing that his late-harvest offerings can seldom compete with those produced on the Mosel, he has decided to concentrate almost exclusively on dry wines, a discipline in which the Pfalz excels.  In particular, his village rieslings from Gimmeldingen and Königsbach are well crafted and offer good value for money.  However, it is confusing that these wines, which are essentially the second wines of his Grosses Gewächs, are better and more expensive than secondary sites that he still mentions on other wines.  2007 Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Aromas of lime and white pepper with a floral topnote.  The palate shows a pithy texture, with a flavor of peach pit animated by juicy spiciness.  Nicely balanced and succulent on the finish.  90.  2008 Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Rich aromatic spices, tropical fruits and a hint of smoke on the nose.  The sweet peach fruit is nicely integrated into the wine’s juicy texture.  Salty herbs linger on the palate.  90.  2008 Königsbacher Idig Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Smoky aromas of peach pit, almond and clove.  The ripe, crisp apricot fruits sit tightly on a salty, mineral framework.  The savory finish brings nut oils and a sophisticated sense of finesse, not to mention excellent length. 92.  Also recommended:  2008 Weissburgunder Trocken “SC” (87), 2008 Gimmeldinger Riesling Trocken “SC” (87), 2008 Gimmeldinger Riesling Trocken “SC” (87), 2008 Königsbacher Riesling Trocken “SC” (88), 2008 Gimmeldinger Biengarten Riesling Trocken (86), 2008 Königsbacher Ölberg Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs (86),  2007 Spätburgunder “SC” (87), 2007 Königsbacher Ölberg Spätburgunder (87), 2007 Königsbacher Idig Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs (88).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Grauburgunder Trocken “SC”, 2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Deidesheimer Riesling Trocken “SC”.  (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY)

 

Dr. Deinhard, Deidesheim.  This is the latest jewel in the crown of Achim Niederberger, who already controls Bassermann-Jordan and von Buhl.  Where those two estates have improved subtly and gradually since Neiderberger purchased them, Dr. Deinhard is morphing both in style and design under Stephan Attmann, the new high-octane managing director.  After crisp, clean 2007s, which already signalled a sleeker profile, the 2008s are instead clearly marked by the new oak casks that have been reintroduced for fermentation.  This unusual flavor will certainly recede in coming vintages, but the new “von Winning” label for the finer dry rieslings is tantamount to a name change.  With everything in movement, and the old villa a construction site, I reserve judgment for the moment.  That said, it is clear that this estate is preparing itself to scale new heights.  Keep an eye on developments here.  2008 Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Unusual aromas of white peach, resin and lemon oil.  Bright, penetrating pit fruit and chalky minerality are nicely balanced by the juicy texture.  Odd but stylish.  88.  2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Sage and a smoky earthiness on the nose.  Glossy, dense apricot pit fruit with sweet herbal inflections animate the palate.  The wine’s opulence, depth and spicy juiciness ensure a pleasing finish.  89.  Also recommended:  2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2008 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Trocken von Winning (87), 2008 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken von Winning (88), 2008 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (88), 2008 Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs (89).  (Terry Theise)

 

Knipser, Laumersheim.  Few estates in Germany are so consistent across such a wide range of grape varieties and styles as Johannishof in Laumersheim, a village on the northern cusp of the Pfalz near Rheinhessen.  Even their syrah can be outstanding.  Moreover, these wines are not only released late, but also age gracefully.  In fact, Werner and Volker Knipser are often loath to present their young wines, knowing that they may be quite closed compared to those of their neighbors.  Given their almost cult following, though, they needn’t be worried. 

2008 Laumersheimer Mandelberg Steinbuckel Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Vibrant aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and a hint of citrus.  Lively apricot pit flavor and almost chalky acidity provide this wine with excellent drive.  In spite of its austerity, this riesling offers provocative depth and excellent length.  A sleeper with fine potential.  92.  2007 Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Mergelweg Spätburgunder Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Bright ruby.  Fine aromas of sweet black cherry, nutmeg and a hint of vanilla.  The rich, herbal blackberry fruit is luscious but held in check by a robust tannic structure.  Still quite closed, but the long, firm finish promises excellent potential.  92.  2007 Grosskarlbacher Burgweg Im Grossen Garten Spätburgunder Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Dark ruby.  Withdrawn aromas of blackberry, wild herbs and clove.  Lush black cherry fruit, sweet tannins and spicy balance rise SLOWLY above the compact depth CORE.????  Classically structured, this compelling wine has very persistent, noble finish.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Weissburgunder & Chardonnay (86), 2007 Weissburgunder Auslese Trocken “KG” (91), 2008 Grauburgunder Spätlese Trocken (87), 2004 Chardonnay Spätlese Trocken (92), 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Kabinett Trocken (89), 2008 Laumersheimer Kapellenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Kalkmergel (88), 2008 Dirmsteiner Mandelpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs (92), 2008 Dirmsteiner Mandelpfad Riesling Auslese (91), 2008 Dirmsteiner Mandelpfad Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (94), 2008 Cabernet Rosé (85), 2007 Spätburgunder (87), 2007 Syrah (90), 2007 Syrah “R” (94).  (Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO)

 

Koehler-Ruprecht, Kallstadt.  This estate has been on the verge of being sold for some time now.  In fact, I wrote erroneously last year that it had been, because Bernd Philippi told me that the transaction would take place “by the end of the month.”  Even now, rumors have it that there are buyers in waiting.  In the meantime, the owner is just as likely to be found in Portugal or South Africa, where he also makes wine, as in the Pfalz.  But it is clear that his heart still beats faster when he is “at home.”  After stunningly dense 2007s, which he claims are the finest dry rieslings he has ever made, the 2008s are more intricate, almost delicate for the style of this estate.  The two “new” 2007s recommended below will not be released for another couple of years, at which time they will be crowned by an as yet unnamed “A”.  2008 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($??):  Apple blossom, sweet smoke and persimmon on the nose.  A sweet peach pit flavor is enhanced by chalky minerality. Densely packed and nicely balanced, with a pleasing finish.  89.  2008 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken ($??):  Herbal aromas of apricot, toasted almond and lemon zest.  The nicely polished peach flavor and understated minerality are laced with smoky nut oils.  Full-bodied yet graceful, this wine shows poignant length.  Perfectly old-fashioned!  90.  2008 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken “R” ($??):  Intense aromas of apricot pit, nutmeg and clove oil.  The exuberant peach flavor and textural richness are driven by a salty minerality that lingers on the finish.  An unctuously rich, deep wine with tantalizing spices and uncommon length.  91(+?).  Also recommended:  2008 Kallstadter Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken “R” (92) and 2007 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken “RR” (93). DON’T UNDERSTAND THE QUESTION??

 

Philip Kuhn, Laumersheim.  In little more than a decade Philipp?? Kuhn has not only enlarged the family’s vineyard holdings to just over 50 acres but has also taken quality to the forefront of the Pfalz.  As Laumersheim was once considered the backwater of the northern Pfalz, he has been spurred forward by his neighbor Werner Knipser, who he now occasionally rivals in quality.  His 2007s marked a definitive breakthrough; the 2008s cement his position as one of the leading estates of the Pfalz.  2007 Grosskarlbacher Burgweg Im Grossen Garten Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($???):  Ripe aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and lemon oil.  Nicely woven flavors of apricot pit, herbs and salty minerality.  Alluringly deep riesling with a noble?? finish.  91.  2008 Laumersheimer Mandelberg Riesling Trocken Alte Reben ($???):  Heady aromas of papaya, smoked meat and mineral salts.  The juicy guava fruit and vibrant acidity are nicely paired, and enveloped by the wine’s luscious texture.  Finishes with fine balance and lingering brown spice flavors.  92.  2007 Laumersheimer Mandelberg Steinbuckel Spätburgunder Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($???):  Deep ruby.  Succulent aromas of ripe plum, hazelnut and smoked bacon.  Sweet blackberry fruit shows a velvety texture and is nicely framed by ripe tannins.  Finishes suave and long.  This is a surprising?? pinot noir from such a young producer.  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Viognier (88), 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (90), 2008 Laumersheimer Kapellenberg Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Grosskarlbacher Burgweg Riesling Trocken (90), 2008 Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Laumersheimer Steinbuckel Riesling Grosses Gewächs (89), 2008 Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese (95), 2007 Frühburgunder (87), 2007 Sankt Laurent (89), 2007 Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs (92).  ??

 

Theo Minges, Flemlingen.  Theo Minges has been remarkably consistent over the past few vintages, but where last year the dry rieslings and even pinot noir were excellent, the gewürztraminer and rieslaner are the highlights in 2008.  2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Buntsandstein ($??):  Subtle aromas of peach pit and toasted almond.  Compact on the palate, with the juicy apricot fruit slow to surface.  A subtle smokiness and salty minerality combine for a discreet but pleasing finish.  88.  2008 Gewürztraminer Spätlese Rosenduft ($??):  Golden yellow.  Opulent aromas of rose petal, sweet smoke and basil.  The flavors of succulently sweet papaya and Christmas spices are held together by a salty mineral frame.  Finishes with unctuous depth and impressive length.  91.  2008 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Rieslaner Spätlese ($??):  Ample aromas of apricot, smoked meat and vanilla.  Juicy melon and sweet herb flavors dominate the creamy palate.  At once unctuous and refreshing, this wine shows nice balance and excellent length.  Surprising!??  92.  Also recommended:  2008 Grauburgunder Spätlese Muschelkalk (87), 2008 Gleisweiler Hölle Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Kalkstein (91), 2008 Gleisweiler Hölle Riesling Spätlese (86), 2007 Riesling Spätlese “Froschkönig” (88).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Riesling Trocken, 2008 Scheurebe Kabinett Trocken Kalkgestein, 2008 Weissburgunder Trocken, 2008 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Muskateller Spätlese Trocken, 2008 Gleisweiler Hölle Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Gleisweiler Hölle Riesling Kabinett.  (Terry Theise)

 

Georg Mosbacher, Forst.  If I had to name one just village to represent the Pfalz, it would certainly be Forst—not just for its touristic charm, but more importantly for the quality of the wines.  Many estates own vineyards on the hills above the church, but Georg Mosbacher is the only truly famous estate to have its cellars there.  Always elegant in style, these rieslings may sometimes appear a touch light, but all four Grosses Gewächs were beyond reproach in 2008, with Pechstein again my favorite.  2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Discreet aromas of white peach, persimmon and acacia blossom.  The pithy muskmelon fruit gives way to a roughly hewn mineral character and spicy finish.  Herbal notes in the lengthy aftertaste augur well [why??] for the AGEING potential of this riesling.  90.  2008 Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Apricot skin, quince and lime blossom on the nose.  Fairly full-bodied tropical fruit flavors with understated acidity lend depth to the wine.  Nicely balanced riesling with a hint of nut oil on the long finish.  91.  2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Ripe pear, honeysuckle and citrus rind on the nose.  Succulent passion fruit and tangy acidity provide just the right balance.  The alluringly long finish offers a refreshing spicy quality.  This is my favorite dry riesling from this cellar.  91.  Also recommended: 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (85), 2008 Weissburgunder “SL“ (86), 2008 Gewürztraminer Spätlese Trocken (86), 2008 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2008 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Forster Musenhang Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Deidesheimer Leinhöhle Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2008 Forster Freudenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs (90).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese.  (Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA)

 

Müller-Catoir, Haardt.  With his svelte, often reductive style of winemaking, Martin Franzen’s wines tend to be finely chiseled.  That can work splendidly with the finest dry rieslings and noble late-harvest rieslaners, but the entry-level wines here can often appear somewhat light and even austere.  Where the vintage 2007 tended to mitigate those extremes, 2008 highlighted them.  The simple wines showed the cracks of a difficult year.  However, not only was the Grosses Gewächs extremely elegant, the two rieslaner TBAs were among the dozen finest wines of the vintage.  2008 Haardter Bürgergarten Breumel In den Mauern Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs:  Subdued aromas of white peach, clove and mineral salts.  Taut, spicy pit fruits and brilliant acidity make this riesling stand out.  Although ethereal in style, this wine has depth, incredible length and excellent potential.  92.  2008 Haardter Bürgergarten Riesling Spätlese:  Spicy aromas of papaya and pineapple.  The sweet tropical fruits are nicely interwoven in the wine’s creamy texture, and there’s just enough acidity to keep this wine fresh.  Finishes with pleasant length.  88.  2008 Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Spätlese:  Pale golden yellow.  Blackcurrant, peach preserves and mint on the nose.  The palate is dominated by general candied apricot, with sweet herbs and an exotic spice component providing freshness on the finish.  89.  2008 Haardter Bürgergarten Breumel In den Mauern Riesling Auslese ($?? for 375 ml.):  Pale yellow. Luscious aromas of pineapple, acacia honey and exotic spices.  The rich, creamy tropical fruit flavors are invigorated by bright, crisp acidity that gives the wine a light touch in spite of its substantial weight.  The long, complex finish boasts excellent concentration.  Impressive.  93.  2008 Gimmeldinger Schlössel Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese ($?? for 375 ml.):  Rich golden yellow.  Extremely elegant nose delivers candied passion fruit, quince and lemon oils highlighted by spicy botrytis.  Dense, velvety and honeyed on the palate yet somehow almost ethereal, thanks to the lift provided by a delicate, clove-driven minerality.  The highly complex finish of peach preserves, nuts oils and cinnamon boasts incredible persistence.  One of the finest wines of the vintage, this rieslaner has enormous potential.  96.  Also recommended:  2008 Haardter Herrenletten Weissburgunder Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Haardter Herrenletten Grauburgunder Spätlese Trocken (85), 2008 Haardter Bürgergarten Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2008 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Spätlese (86), 2008 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Auslese (88), 2008 Haardter Burggarten Riesling Auslese (90), 2008 Gimmeldinger Schlössel Rieslaner Beerenauslese (91), 2008 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese (95).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Weissburgunder Trocken “MC”, 2008 Riesling Trocken “MC”, 2008 Haardt Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Gimmeldingen Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Mussbach Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Haardt Scheurebe Trocken, 2008 Haardt Muskateller Trocken.  (Terry Theise)

 

Pfeffingen, Bad Dürkheim.  When I first moved to Germany more than 25 years ago, this was one of my favorite producers.  Since then, a major reconstruction of the vineyards meant that they were long working with younger vines, so that only recently has this estate slowly reemerged to its former prominence.  Part of that is certainly due to Jan Eymael, who joined his mother here in 2002.  In any case, the past couple of vintages have been excellent.  Even the simple wines here are of a high standard, and prices are more than fair across the board.  2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs “M” ($??):  Herbal aromas of pineapple, lemon rind and toasted nuts.   Pungent pit fruits and creamy texture are set off by salty mineral notes.  A spicy acidity lends vivacity to the seductive finish.  Very good potential.  91.  2008 Ungsteiner Weilberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Bright aromas of white peach, roasted hazelnut and mineral salts.  The rich, unctuous tropical fruit flavors are finely counterpointed by a smoky minerality that adds complexity.  Dense and pleasingly long, this wine offers excellent potential.  91.  Also recommended:  2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Weissburgunder Grosses Gewächs “V” (90), 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (89), 2008 Riesling Pfeffo (85), 2008 Scheurebe Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Scheurebe Spätlese (87), 2008 Scheurebe Auslese (88), 2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese (92).  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Ökonomierat Rebholz, Siebeldingen.  I consider the estate of Hans-Jörg Rebholz to be the best in the Pfalz and one of the top dozen or so in Germany.  Some cast a sidelong glance at this assertion, in particular because Rebholz is not from the Mittelhardt, which has traditionally been the region’s vinous heart.  But not only does much of what he touches turn to gold, he excels in many disciplines. He is certainly one of the top producers of sparkling wines; he makes elegant weissburgunder, rich chardonnays and bracing rieslings; and his taut pinot noirs, which he only releases after several years of bottle aging, are always at the head of their class.  As his style is a touch austere, the wines need time to unfold, and thus are not always immediately accessible to the uninitiated, which is perhaps why he calls his 2008 Trockenbeerenauslese “Zeit und Geduld,” which means “time and patience” in English.  2008 Chardonnay Spätlese Trocken “R” ($??):  Waxy aromas of peach, smoked meat and toasted oak.  Full-bodied, rich and spicy, but the mango flavor remains rather unforthcoming due to the wine’s firm minerality.  Densely concentrated and very long on the finish, this austere chardonnay will only begin to open in a few years.  Excellent potential.  94.  2008 Siebeldinger im Sonnenschein Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Delicate aromas of apricot skin, clove and mineral salts.   The taut, juicy peach pit fruit vibrates with a refreshing acidity.  Beautifully pure and dense, but still closed and deceptively long, this pinot blanc was the best of its ilk?? [variety?? YES] in this vintage.  94.  2008 Siebeldinger Im Sonnenschein Gamshorn Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Sensuous aromas of white peach, hazelnut and lemon oil.  The bright, shimmering guava flavor and salty minerality come across as fresh and lively.  This seductive riesling finishes with clear focus and impressive length.  92.  2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Herbal aromas of peach pit, persimmon and mineral salts.  Rich and dense in the mouth, with a flavor of apricot pit complicated by a spicy saline minerality.  With its enormous depth, refreshing acidity and stunning length, this is one of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.  93.  2007 Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken Muschelkalk ($??):  Bright ruby. Spicy aromas of blackberry, smoked almond and gunflint.  Juicy black cherry fruit shows a restrained elegance and noteworthy distinction.  Finishes with herbal tannins and fine length.  [anything more in the way of VANILLA taste and ROUGH SILK textural descriptors??]  92.  2007 Siebeldinger im Sonnenschein Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Dark red.  Spicy aromas of bing cherry, clove and juniper.  The gripping blackberry fruit and velvety texture flesh offer the mid-palate stuffing to support the wine’s herbal tannins.  This sensuous wine finishes seamless and long, and offers excellent potential for further development in bottle.  93.  Also recommended:  2008 Muskateller Kabinett Trocken (87), 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Grauer Burgunder Spätlese Trocken “S” (87), 2008 Weisser Burgunder Spätlese Trocken “S” (89), 2008 π-no Spätlese Trocken “R” (91), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Buntsandstein (89), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken “Muschelkalk” (90), 2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Vom Rotliegenden (91), 2008 Siebeldinger im Sonnenschein Riesling Grosses Gewächs (91), 2008 Gewürztraminer Spätlese (87), 2008 Albersweiler Latt Traminer Auslese (88), 2008 Trockenbeerenauslese Zeit und Geduld (96), 2007 Spätburgunder Trocken Tradition (88).  (Rudi Wiest)

 

Siener, Birkweiler.  After making stellar 2007s, Peter Siener has again called trumps (IN BRIDGE THE DECLARER CALLS TRUMPS)?? this year.  Although 2008 was not an easy ride, his entry-level offerings continue to improve and he shone with his single vineyard selections, most of which were not harvested until early November.  Kastanienbusch is an excellent site, but its varied soils run the gamut from Schiefer (slate) and Buntsandstein (variegated sandstone) to Kalk (chalk), which is why Siener differentiates them.  Granted this can be confusing to the uninitiated consumer, but it’s crystal clear to his fans.  2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Taschberg Riesling Trocken ($??):  Herbal aromas of white peach, smoked almond and lemon oil.  The intense apricot pit fruit harmonizes nicely with bracing minerality.  The long, enticing finish is dense and pungently spicy.  91.  2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Schiefer Riesling Trocken ($??):  Spicy aromas of white peach, toasted almond and wild herbs.  The polished star fruit and understated mineral flavors are nicely laced with smoky nut oils.  Full-bodied yet graceful, with poignant length, this stunning dry riesling is one of the finest of the vintage.  93.  2008 Birkweiler Mandelberg Kalkgestein Weisser Burgunder Trocken ($??):  Smoky aromas of dried apricot and nutmeg, with a touch of bacon fat.  Dense and creamy melon fruit fills the palate.  Finishes full-bodied and surprisingly long, with pleasing balance.  90.  2007 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Bundsandstein Spätburgunder Trocken ($??):  Bright ruby.  Fine?? aromas of sweet black cherry, nutmeg and vanilla. The rich velvety blackberry fruit displays a luscious quality that’s held in check by a robust tannic structure.  The long, firm finish promises excellent potential.  89.  Also recommended:  2008 Riesling Trocken Vom Buntsandstein (86), 2008 Riesling Trocken Vom Rotliegenden (90), 2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Trocken Terassenlage (89), 2008 Riesling Feinherb Vom Kalk (87), 2007 Birkweiler Spätburgunder (86).  (Frances Rose Imports, Huntley, IL)

 

Weingut Faubel - Ullrichshof, Maikammer (THIS SHOULD BE UNDER F APHABETICALLY).  Gerd Faubel in Maikammer has been making consistently good wines for many years but has outdone himself over the past two vintages, excelling with dry riesling, pinot blanc and pinot noir.  In fact, even his off-dry wines can be compelling. More important, the entry-level wines are not only convincing but down to earth in price.  Anyone who has visited the Jugenstil Ullrichshof villa, enjoyed the Mediterranean flair, and tasted the wines is sure to return.

2008 Riesling Spätlese Trocken Kostbar:  Subtle aromas of peach skin, beeswax and bay leaf.   The ample apricot flavor and polished texture are juxtaposed with a refreshing minerality.  The full-bodied finish boasts surprising length.  90.  2008 Weissburgunder Spätlese Trocken Kostbar ($??):  Rich aromas of apricot, smoked meat and vanilla.  Pithy, juicy melon fruit and creamy texture dominate the palate.  Ample yet refreshing, this wine shows excellent balance and impressive length. 92.  Also recommended:  2008 Maikammer Kirchenstück Weisser Burgunder Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Maikammer Kapellenberg Weisser Burgunder Spätlese Trocken (90), 2008 Maikammer Kapellenberg Grauer Burgunder Spätlese Trocken (88), 2008 Maikammer Kapellenberg Grauer Burgunder Spätlese Trocken (90), 2008 Maikammer Heiligenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken (88), 2008 Maikammer Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken (90), 2008 Maikammer Herzog Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (88), 2008 Maikammer Heiligenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (90), 2007 Spätburgunder Kostbar (87). IN DISCUSSION ??

 

Dr.  Heinz Wehrheim, Birkweiler.  With Rebholz and Becker, Karl-Heinz Wehrheim is at the cutting edge of new developments in the southern neck of the Pfalz.  Classically, his specialty has been his pinot blanc, but his rieslings have improved markedly and I again gave my highest marks in 2008 to his riesling from the Köppel site within the great Kastanienbusch vineyard and a chardonnay that he names only Keuper, a rock stratum that was deposited in the middle and late Triassic period.  Along with Muschelkalk (chalk) and Buntsandstein (sandstone), it forms the German Trias Group (THIS IS GEOLOGICAL TERMINOLOGY)??, a characteristic sequence that gave the Triassic its name.  Wehrheim distinguishes between the three on his labels.  2008 Birkweiler Mandelberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Subtle aromas of ripe pear, flint and vanilla.  Velvety on the palate, with sweet peach fruit laced with complex Indian spices.  Rich and long on the satisfying finish.  90.  2008 Chardonnay Keuper S ($???):  Rich aromas of mango, nutmeg and vanilla.  The unctuous papaya flavor is in lovely harmony with understated acidity.  A stately earthiness leads to a serious finish.  With its excellent depth and length, this is one of the best wines of its kind in 2008.  92.  2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Discreet aromas of apricot, persimmon and acacia blossom.  The bracing muskmelon fruit gives way to a mineral character and emerging spices on the back end.  Finishes pleasantly long, with an herbal quality.  90.  2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Köppel Riesling Grosses Gewächs ($??):  Pithy aromas of white peach, hazelnut and lemon oils.  The dense peach fruit is held in check by chalky acidity.  The creamy depth rises slowly?? on a long finish spiced by basil leaf.  91.  Also recommended:  2008 Weisser Burgunder Muschelkalk S (87), 2008 Grauer Burgunder Keuper S (85), 2008 Riesling Trocken Bundsandstein (85), 2008 Riesling Trocken Bundsandstein S (87), 2008 Riesling Trocken Rotliegendes S (89), 2006 Spätburgunder Buntsandstein (86), 2006 Spätburgunder Buntsandstein S (87), 2006 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs (88).  Other wines tasted:   2008 Silvaner Trocken Kammerer.  (Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO)

 

J. L. Wolf Erben, Wachenheim.  Given the fact that Ernie Loosen’s winemaker died just before harvest, 2008 turned out remarkably well. From a cornucopia of excellent vineyard sites, he made compact wines with refreshing complexity and moderate levels of alcohol at affordable prices.  In terms of value, my preference is the village riesling from Forst, which costs less than $10 a bottle in Germany.   2008 Wachenheimer Belz Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($??):  White peach and mint on the nose.  Luscious but firm flavors of bright star fruit and spicy minerality shape.  The cool spicy finish offers pleasing length. 89.  2008 Forster Pechstein Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($??):  Exotic aromas of apricot pit, muskmelon and lemon oil.  Rich and dense in texture, with pleasing depth of peach pit and smoky spice flavors typical of the site.  Finishes with lingering notes of herbs and clove.  90.  Also recommended:  2008 Forster Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87), 2008 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese Trocken (87).  Other wines tasted:  2008 Grauburgunder Johann Ludwig Wolf, 2008 Grauburgunder Spätlese Alte Reben and 2008 Riesling Johann Ludwig Wolf.  (Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR)