The finest wines from Germany are all about where they come from - the interplay of soil, climate and human intuition. Joel Payne picks ten sites that have driven dry Riesling’s quality revolution.

Germany’s top 10

At a recent presentation in Berlin Michael Prince zu Salm-Salm, President of Germany’s Prädikat Wine Estates, spoke of Grosses Gewächs as ”being somewhere between Porsche and Goethe”. The individual personality of a wine originates in the vineyard, but the expression of this culture would be impossible without man’s intervention.

The concept of Grosses Gewächs, or Great Growths, is simple enough - to highlight the finest of any given vintage. Low yields from outstanding sites combined with hand harvest and a late release of the young wine have inspired winemakers to coax maximum quality from their vineyard’s potential. The goal is to achieve a perfect balance of ripe fruit and acidity.

With the release of the 2002 vintage a new logo, the numeral 1 with a cluster of grapes, will be used to symbolise wines of this status. In general nomenclature will be limited to the name of the vineyard and the grape. For many producers the mention of the site suffices. Kirchenstück is Riesling and so there is no need to write the latter on the label. Does Chardonnay appear on a bottle of Montrachet?

A Grosses Gewächs can only be produced in a restricted number of classified sites, a step towards introducing the concept of Grand Cru in Germany. More importantly they are subject to a sensorial examination by their peers. At present this preliminary classification is a private endeavour and does not yet have the full approval of the authorities – and some of the best producers still play by the old rules.

The top 10

It is often said that wine is a lens through which you can see the site that produced it – lit in Germany by Riesling. The following is a selection of dry Riesling that will introduce a new generation of consumers to German wine’s individuality. No one questions the purity of expression in a Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese from Joh. Jos. Prüm, the sheer depth of fruit of a Scharzhofberger Auslese from Egon Müller nor the complexity of an Erdener Prälat Auslese from Dr. Loosen, but these wines are all sweet, admirably sweet. They are arguably the finest wines that Germany has yet produced, but the following dry Rieslings are harbingers of exciting worlds to come.

Berg Schlossberg in Rüdesheim (Rheingau)

This vertiginous site in Rüdesheim juts into the Rhine at the western end of the Rheingau just where the river veers north towards Cologne. Composed of weathered slate sprinkled with quartz the Rieslings typically show an austere, often flinty character in their youth. With bottle age a refreshing aroma of peach begins to appear and the wine develops an almost creamy fullness without losing its mineral acidic backbone.

Since the reform in 1971 this vineyard sprawls over 30 hectares, but its true core was never more than eight. Breuer owns three of these. His 1980 was one of the first Rieslings made along the lines of a first growth and he is today one of the few producers in Germany able to line up ten or more vintages in a vertical tasting to show how well his wines age. His 1993 was the best dry Riesling of that memorable vintage. 1996 and 1999 were no less inspiring.

Given the fact that Bernhard Breuer is one of the founding fathers of Grosses Gewächs in Germany it is unfortunate that he is no longer a spokesman for the group. A clash of personalities is part of the story, but his unswerving belief in the inherent character of an individual site is another. ”Our current classification is based too much on potential ripeness,” he asserts. ”High sugar contents do not alone make great wines.”

Breuer   Berg Schlossberg   2001   *****

2001 is a perfect example of Berg Schlossberg’s character. Last year so closed that the uninitiated would have paid it little attention, it is now beginning to show its potential, if not yet its charm. Vintage Breuer! 2005-2018. 5.600 bottles produced. Noel Young Wine Merchant, Cambridge.

Kirchenstück in Forst (Pfalz)

There is a consensus that Kirchenstück is the finest vineyard in the Palatinate. The problem is that it has only four hectares of vine and at least ten estates flouting the name, each with its own style. Few would doubt, though, that Dr. Bürklin-Wolf and Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan are the kings in this fiefdom.

With only half a hectare Dr. Bürklin-Wolf can hardly pretend to dominate this site, but no one has done more to bottle its essence than Christian von Guradze and his wife Bettina Bürklin. What makes this vineyard special, apart from the microclimate, is the weathered basalt on underlying loam that retain both heat and water. The grapes mature to prefect ripeness without being overblown. The ensuing wines are both rich and perfectly balanced.

This is their jewel in a crown that sports another six Grosses Gewächs and a handful of other fine sites that lesser estates would also bottle as first growth if they owned them. No one makes more great dry Riesling than this estate in Wachenheim.

Dr. Bürklin Wolf   Kirchenstück   2002   *****

For the past ten years this vineyard has produced one of the most stunning dry Rieslings in Germany. The 1996 was a monument, the finest of the vintage. The 2002 carries the torch to a new level, perhaps the finest dry Riesling Germany has yet produced. An aristocrat! 2006-2020. 1500 bottles produced. Laytons, London.

Rothenberg in Nackenheim (Rheinhessen)

The Rothenberg vineyard in Nackenheim would probably be unknown today had Fritz Hasselbach and his wife Agnes not resurrected the Gunderloch Estate. The village of Nierstein lies only five kilometres further south and traditionally most of the great names in Rheinhessen were located there.

Their vineyard rises as a stretch of weathered red slate above the Rhine just before the river turns westward at the foot of the Rheingau. An offshore island creates unusual microclimatic conditions that influence the warm style of the wines. Of the twelve hectares in the Rothenberg, Gunderloch owns nine, but they seldom make more than a few thousand bottles of their finest dry Riesling.

Fritz Hasselback has wisely chosen to release this wine a year later than the more approachable Spätlese and Auslese. He knows that his Rothenberg is closed in its youth and seldom shows well before its third birthday. Only then does it begin to shed its monolithic character and sport an ethereal component that one would nary have expected a year earlier.

Gunderloch   Rothenberg   2001   *****

The 2001 is the finest dry Riesling that Fritz Hasselbach has released to date. Already a touch of smoked venison has begun to add complexity to the underlying tones of peach and spice. The sheer weight of fruit is still masked by a steely mineral backbone. now-2017. 3000 bottles produced. Siegel Wine Agency, Odiham

Idig in Königsbach (Pfalz)

There is a myth that only old vines produce great wines. Exceptions prove the rule. The Idig vineyard from the Christmann Estate was only six years old in 2000 when it produced a wine that denies simple description.

The vineyard itself has always been first rate, but few had done much to exploit its potential. Steep slopes with southerly exposition are not common in the Palatinate. Add to that the small amphitheatre protecting the vines from westerly wind and rain and you are near a winemaker’s dream. Few vineyards are so warm over the year, few have as much limestone and clay. Of the total 18 hectares Steffen Christmann owns only slightly more than two, but his pawns have already been promoted to queens.

Christmann   Idig   2000

This wine was the finest dry Riesling from the vintage 2000 in Germany. Both 2001 and 2002 are also memorable, garnering Idig cult status almost overnight. Depth and elegance are seldom so well paired. now-2013. 6.000 bottles produced. No importer in England.

Morstein in Westhofen (Rheinhessen)

Although first mentioned in 1282, the Morstein vineyard was unknown to but a few cognoscenti until recently. The wines from Rheinhessen were not popular and even die-hards who drank Riesling from Nierstein turned up their noses when they heard this part of the region mentioned. All that has changed since the Wittmann Estate put Westhofen on the map.

The village lies in a valley that draws warm air from the Rhine floor. The Kirchspiel vineyard also produces elegant wines, but Morstein has been more consistent in bringing forth great dry Riesling. Of today’s 140 hectares the original vineyard is an amphitheatre of less than 50 rising on the slopes of an underground mountain. In its heart Günter and son Philipp Wittmann own almost four hectares with a southerly exposure, well protected from the westerly winds and rains. The limestone outcroppings generate rich wines of intense mineral expression and astonishing length.

Wittmann   Morstein   2001   *****

Although 2002 is sumptuous, the 2001 Morstein was the finest dry Riesling made in Germany. Wild herbs spice the bouquet and compact fruit pours luscious flesh onto a well-structured backbone. now-2015. 2200 bottles produced. The Wine Barn, Winchester.

Pechstein in Forst (Pfalz)

The are numerous sites in Forst that often produce a Grosses Gewächs, which is why some compare this village to Vosne-Romanée in Burgundy with it full house of Grand Cru. The most unique of them is certainly Pechstein, a rare outcropping of volcanic rock. Pech in German means jet black and aptly describes to colour of the soil.

Now surpassing 21 hectares the original Pechstein was only half that size. Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan owns a full hectare in the heart of the slope and produced a 2002 that outshines their Kirchenstück, the more aristocratic site.

Although the estate has owned fine vineyards in the Palatinate for over a century it was not until the arrival of Ulrich Mell, who before made excellent wines for Biffar in Deidesheim, that the lustre surrounding the name of Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan began again to shine.

Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan   Pechstein   2002   *****

Few dry Rieslings in Germany have such salient features as those from this site. Flinty is the word used to describe the unique character, but that does not suffice. Radiant and complex must be added for good measure. 2200 bottles produced. The Wine Barn, Winchester.

Hölle in Hochheim (Rheingau)

Hochheim has several outstanding sites, of which Hölle and Kirchenstück are arguably the best. The Hölle produces denser, more athletic wines that Gunter Künstler - serious, but with a coy smile - likens to Latour. Kirchenstück being finer, he speaks of Lafite.

In 1983 the Hölle was extended to 30 hectares, but the original vineyard had only seven, of which Künstler acquired six when he purchased the Aschrott Estate in 1996. The chalky clay and loam soils hold water and heat well. In October, as other vineyards begin to lose their leaves, the Hölle kicks into high gear. ”We have never had to chaptalise a Riesling from the Hölle,” asserts Gunter Künster, who has been making outstanding dry Riesling since 1990. Not surprisingly, Künstler in German means artist!

Künstler   Hölle   2002   *****

Although confusing Künstler makes four dry Rieslings from the Hölle, the Gold Capsule Auslese being the ultimate expression of the vineyard. A late harvest insures perfect physiological ripeness producing a Riesling of inimitable depth and stature. 2005-2016. 3000 bottles produced. Justerini & Brooks, London

Kastanienbusch in Birkweiler (Pfalz)

The southern extension of the Palatinate borders on Alsace. Some German wines here are even grown on French soil. Although the region has been given but little attention, Hansjörg Rebholz heads a budding renaissance - and his Kastanienbusch vineyard has played a significant role in the resurrection of the area’s reputation. His Weisser Burgurnder (Pinot Blanc) and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) are perhaps more well-known, but that does not diminish the stature of his Riesling.

The Kastanienbusch vineyard sprawls across some 76 hectares, but only a small part merits the classification Grosses Gewächs – and of that only a sliver has the weathered red slate soils on which Riesling thrives. Rebholz’s wines are proof of the German hypothesis that you can not classify vineyards, but only wines from high-minded producers.

Rebholz   Kastanienbusch   2002

Wild herbs and honey are the hallmarks of this vineyard – and in spite of the density of fruit the wine literally dances across the palate. The rigid mineral acidic structure will soften with age. 2005-2017. 4000 bottles produced. No importer in England.

Berg Rottland in Rüdesheim (Rheingau)

The more gently sloped Berg Rottland is the other great vineyard site in Rüdesheim. The weathered slate here is chalkier, with hints of gravelly loam, and the wines are more full bodied than in Berg Schlossberg. Often the result of botrytis that gives Riesling a more southerly character, these wines are often reminiscent of the Palatinate.

Less than half of today’s 30 hectares form the core of original vineyard, of which only about six in a small dell are the choicest. This is where the Josef Leitz Estate produces one of its finest wines. Johannes Leitz, who took over the family property seventeen years ago at the tender age of 22, has turned it into an icon of the Rheingau.

An unassuming star, he always harvests his grapes ”à la minute”, as he says, as if he were a chef choosing ingredients for a succulent dish. His 2002s, although from an difficult vintage, were the finest made in the Rheingau and the pinnacle of a still young career.

Leitz   Berg Rottland   2002   *****

This is a dry Spätlese that is the quintessence of what a Berg Rottland should be: rich, sensuous and beautifully structured. Apricot pits in the aromatics give way to a backbone of acidity that in a blind tasting might be taken for a Riesling from the Wachau. Pure exuberance! 2004 to 2015. 3000 bottles produced. 2005-2017. Siegel Wine Agency, Odiham.

Hubacker in Dalsheim (Rheinhessen)

For purists the Hubacker vineyard lies on the wrong side of the tracks. Great Rieslings from Rheinhessen are produced on the Rheinfront, not in the hilly backwaters. Be that as it may, no one of late has been producing dry Riesling with more consistency than the Keller Estate – and what is a great vineyard site, if no one is making fine wine there?

The Hubacker comprises some 30 hectares. The core vineyard, once called the Oberer Hubacker, is a mere 4 hectares in size, wholly owned by the Kellers. The gentle slope rises to a summit that belies the underground limestone bluffs that support the vineyard. Maturity comes slowly here and the grapes are often picked after the neighbours have finished the vintage. The late harvest gives the Hubacker an exotic character that is seldom found elsewhere.

Keller   Hubacker   1997   *****

This Auslese was the finest dry Riesling of the 1997 vintage, but both 2001 and 2002 are of similar pedigree - the latter perhaps overshadowed by the Morstein that father Klaus and son Klaus-Peter now make. Worth the detour!. Now-2010. 4.300 bottles produced. Howard Ripley, London.

Future voices

Choosing ten top sites amongst the complexity of German production is almost a crap call. There are a myriad of excellent vineyards, each with its own personality, and a cornucopia of aspiring producers trying to turn their soils to song. Here are another eleven rising voices that deserve to be heard.

Heymann-Löwenstein   Laubach (Mosel)

Dry Riesling from the Mosel? Reinhard Löwenstein’s Rieslings prove that the dry and Mosel are not necessarily antonyms.

Weingart   Feuerlay (Mittelmosel)

Florian Weingart has towered above his colleagues on the Mittelrhein for the past three years. His dry Spätlese from the Feuerlay is the finest of its class.

Emerich-Schönleber   Halenberg (Nahe)

Werner Schönleber turned in a tremendous performance in 2002 – and his dry Rieslings have gone from strength to strength. If he can do this consistently Halenberg will soon become a household word.

Diel   Burgberg (Nahe)

Since he purchased this vineyard Armin Diel has put Burgberg on the fast track. His 2003 from cask looks to be the finest dry Riesling that he has yet produced.

Heyl zu Herrnsheim   Brudersberg (Rheinhessen)

In the early 90s this was often one of the finest dry Rieslings made in Germany. The new owner hopes to build on those laurels. No one questions the pre-eminence of the site.

Koehler-Ruprecht   Saumagen (Pfalz)

At a time when no one else was making dry Riesling, Bernd Philippi was in top form. Mature Spätlese from the Saumagen are a tribute to his individuality. The replanted vineyard is now coming of age and may soon again be writing history.

Mosbacher   Ungeheuer (Pfalz)

This estate has been making good dry Riesling for several years. As their style matures it will vie with the top ten for honourable mentions. The Ungeheuer is where it will happen.

Fürst Löwenstein   Kallmuth (Franken)

Under Robert Haller’s guidance this estate has returned the Kallmuth vineyard to its former glory. The selection Coronilla takes the potential to new heights.

Horst Sauer   Lump (Franken)

Horst Sauer’s stickies are a legend in Franconia, but his dry Riesling Auslese from the Lump merits equal attention.

Andreas Laible   Plauelrain (Baden)

No other estate in Baden can compete with Laible for honours in dry Riesling. He owns the entirety of the Plauelrain vineyard, which has produced more fine Riesling than all other sites in Baden together. His 1994 and 1998 were the top dry Rieslings of those vintages.

Aldinger   Lämmler (Württemberg)

Most consumers think red wine when talk turns to Württemberg, but about ten percent of Germany’s Riesling is produced here and no one does it better than Gerd Aldinger in the Lämmler vineyard.