I just had an aperitif at the Côte de Rouge near Akasaka station, where Hiroko and Giacomo had thought it interesting for us to meet. It was, in particular for its exceptional list of open wines. Although we contented ourselves to a 2009 Chablis from William Fevre, the white selection ascended to three different Montrachet, including a 2001 from Comtes Lafon. Remember, this is served by the glass! The red choices ran from the 2001 Lafite and Margaux from the same vintage to 1999 Mouton and 1997s from both Ausone and Latour. My favourite would have been the 1981 Haut Brion. For Burgundy hounds, the top of the lot were four wines from Romanée Conti served in either 3cl or 9cl portions, running from Echezeaux, Richebourg and La Tache to Romanée Conti itself. It may have been only the 2004 vintage, but I don't remember ever having seen a choice of this depth. In my next life, I'll try to come back with more money. Comments