Ashikaga is known in Japan for its university dating back to 794, which I am told is reputedly one of the oldest in the country. I was here, instead, to visit Coco Farm with Miyuki Katori. This is where Bruce Gutlove was brought in some 22 years ago as a vinicultural missionary. Today, Toyoichiro Shibata is responsible for the cellar. A facility for the disabled, its motto is 'a product of sun, soil and sincerity', but 'stay with us and listen to the grapes grow' is posted almost everywhere. Among the domestic producers, it is unusual in having wines from across the country and with styles running from sparkling through dry reds to vin santo. Although I very much like their 2010 Kurisawa, a white field blend from Hokkaido, I gave my highest marks for a 2009 Zweigelt "Z" and a 2006 Kaze no rouge, which essentially means 'red wind'. These are wines that are fun to drink. That you do it then for a charitable cause is an added advantage. Comments