On my last night in Tokyo, I had a tasting dinner with James Dunstan from The Vine at Buchi in Shibuya. He is one a number of importers in Japan who place importance on biodynamic wines, in particular those from southern France, where he has a second home. Other than wild ferment aromatics and perhaps more angular tannins, I am generally not certain how to describe 'natural' wines blind, but somehow we often manage to do so. Still, I am troubled by the moniker, because it makes others sound 'unnatural'. Beyond recent arrivals from the northern Rhône, he was showing his staff a series of recently chosen wines from Mendall, the label of Laureano Serres Montagut. Label, though, is another odd word for a cellar that makes only some eight wines a year, in quantities varying from 240 to 1,200 bottles each. My vote went to Finca Espartal Comments