This year's Anteprima began in Florence with the Collection showcasing the 2009 vintage of Chianti Classico at the Stazione Leopolda. This was a warm, sometimes even hot vintage that certainly favoured the cooler regions, in particular those at higher altitudes. There were some excellent wines, but Francesco Ricasoli's statement that he made no Castello di Brolio rings through the fog. There were few wines that truly sang, but Riecine was certainly one of them. Although there were far fewer shown, and most were cask samples of young Sangiovese that I generally find difficult to evaluate, I much preferred the elegance of 2010. A cooler vintage, the warmer sites - not surprisingly - brought forth the most balanced wines. Of those on exhibition, San Giusto a Rentennano follow by Isole e Olena were my choices. To an extent, the same could be said of 2008, which many see as a somewhat lesser vintage. Perhaps comparatively austere, it nonetheless has a classical charm for those who cut their teeth drinking it. In any case, both Castello di Ama and Fontodi's Riserva Vigna del Sorbo are serious wines. Comments