 Yesterday, during the Anteprima in Montepulciano, an interesting tasting was conducted by Luca and Nicolò de Ferrari at their Boscarelli estate. We compared 2006s, 2004s, 2001s, 1998s, 1995s and 1990s in normal bottles with the exact same wines in magnums. Due to the varying rates of oxygen ingress in corks, we often talk about bottle variation in wines, but this experience was in many ways a touch more than a touch surprising. I would have thought at times that we were served completely different wines. My favourite? The 1990 Riserva in magnum! Subtle, with herbal aromas and delicate balance, it resembled mature Margaux.
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