Never the Same Stream Twice
 April 14 2012, 10:30

Click For Large ViewMany buffs pine after Henri Jayer, the venerable producer from Vosne-Romanée whose estate no longer exists, at least not in its erstwhile form, and whose rare, still unopened bottles fetch breathtaking prices. There is, yes, something magical, about drinking anything sublime that will never be made again. "A man never steps twice into the same stream," wrote Heraclitus of Ephesus. (Incidentally, he continues with "for it is not the same river and he is not the same man," highlighting the changes that take place in us.)

I had one such experience last night with Galina Kotova and Alexey Poznyakov from Globus in Shanghai, who pulled a 2005 Llanos del Almendro from Dominio de Atauta from their cellar. Their story, too, is equally charming: two Russians who have built a successful wine importing business in China, specialising amongst other things in estate bottled Champagne. They have four excellent labels, including Egly-Ouriet, Tarlat and Varnier-Fanniere. In fact, we often share a glass of bubbles when I pass through, but it was this Ribera del Duero that stole the show yesterday. Comments


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