The first stop of this year's tour of the vineyards to taste the new vintage brought me to the Mosel. Although not as consistent across the board as 2009, 2011 will be - in spite of the higher alcohols and lower acidities - a crowd pleaser. One producer told me, though, that as long as total acidity does not fall below pH everything is still acceptable. Tongue in cheek? Few wines, however, perhaps for that reason, truly sing like the finest from 2010. Fortunately, a couple of estates pulled the occasional older bottle to console my wanderings. Here Johannes Selbach with the 1964 Schlossberg that he opened to soothe a cool, damp afternoon. Such Rieslings age marvellously! Comments