 After tasting the two most recent vintages of Heyl zu Herrnsheim's Bruderberg, both made under Felix Peters' tutelage, while I was in Nierstein on Wednesday, I pulled a bottle of the 1989 from my cellar upon my return home last night. While I have been sceptical over the past years about most dry Rieslings' potential to age more than a decade, this was, like my tastings of mature Frédéric Emile from Trimbach earlier this spring, a welcome exception to the rule. I have written before about how each style of wine has its own evolutionary curve, but Riesling is an enigma. The succulently sweet Kabinetts dry out with the time, the drier versions put on flesh and become almost sweet on the palate. What a wonderful world…and a tribute to Dr. Peter von Weymarn! Comments
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