Over the past two evenings, I have opened the 2008 Assajé and 2007 Mantenghja from Capichera in Gallura, at the extreme northern end of Sardinia. I met the owners, father Alberto Ragnedda and son, at the 'tre bicchieri' presentation in Hong Kong last year. Impressed by a wine that I had tasted there, they were kind enough to send me samples of their production. I have yet to look more closely at the various Vermentino for which the island is known, but both of the above reds are pure breed, relatively old vine Carignan, or Carignano as it is known there. In southern France, few producers have made much of this grape. Grenache and Mourvedre have had the better hand. I know too little about this beautiful island to stake any claims, but the varietal does appear to speak a different dialect here. Deep, dark and brooding, with ripe plums, tobacco and chocolate in its veins, it is more reminiscent of Ribera del Duero than the adjacent Tuscan coast. Further, the high alcohols do not hit too hard because of the refreshing acidity, apparently emanating from the weathered granite soils, but will it mature harmoniously? Perhaps that question will best be answered on a next trip to the island… Comments