Although I see far fewer Vino Noblle than Brunello on my Asian travels, I follow - after having tasted the young wines at the Anteprima in February - the new release of both Montepulciano and Montalicino as they trickle into the market. This year, the 2009s in Montepulciano scoured my teeth with their nascent tannins. Although rated 'very good' by the local Consorzio, it is a vintage with an austere profile. I marked most of them less prominently than the majority from the neighouring village, albeit 2007, but they do offer excellent value for money and the finest are quite authentic. My favourites were Boscarelli, Dei, Poliziano, Salcheto, Valdipiatta and Villa Sant'Anna. The surprise? Contucci, an estate that I had often before found too rustical. Talosa is the other producer moving from obscurity into the limelight. Avignonesi, the erstwhile keeper of the grail, made no Vino Nobile in 2009, a brave decision. Now owned by a wealthy Belgian family that has purchased hectares and hectares of additional vineyard holdings, this is an estate that might again lead the 'Denominazione' to its next level. In the meantime, why not drink magnums of 2007 Nocio, Boscarelli's finest single vineyard bottling? Comments