Making Merlot Sing
 May 24 2012, 12:20

Click For Large View"Have Bordeaux, will travel". That slogan reminds me of a gun slinging television series of my youth. That said, the producers from the Gironde now do it in spades. More than almost any other wine growing region, they now understand that a physical presence in markets is necessary to animate sales. This morning, I was surprised to see Jonathan Malthus from Château Teyssier - he now makes 16,000 cases of this one wine at a very moderate price for the high level of quality - at a wine and cheese festival in Kelapa Gading, a suburb of Jakarta. He was showing six wines that Danisa Texindo has just added to its portfolio. I found his Saint Emilions more delicate than they once were. He spoke of picking earlier and using less wood. He has, yes, perhaps put on a touch of weight, but his wines are certainly more elegant than they were a decade ago. I particularly liked the purity of the 2007 Les Astéries. Not a great vintage, but limestone soils sometimes make Merlot sing. Comments


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