Vinexpo is often an unending series of long days, short nights and unrequited expectations. In spite of that, tonight's dinner of the 'Commanderie' in the Grand Hyatt was, like the 'Jurade' the night before and the 'Ordre' on Sunday, quite a success. It is clear that the producers of Bordeaux continue to bank on smiling Chinese customers. Whether they will be repaid in kind remains to be seen, but they were very generous this evening, pouring 2003 Palmer, 2000 Chevalier, 1998 Saint Pierre, 1996 Latour and 2005 Yquem to our hearts' content. Humorously, the Asians at my table did not much care for the 1996 Latour, finding it closed, hard and tannic. Saving face, I ensured that our two bottles found willing sacrificial victims. When it starts to show wrinkles, I begin enjoying Bordeaux. Comments