 Although some producers have made a mark with Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, the horse race among reds in Greece is between Agiorgitiko in the south (Nemea) and Xinomavro in the north (Naoussa). On the whole, there are more good Agiorgitiko, which is in some way this country's Syrah. Xinomavro is more like Nebbiolo, but few have managed to master its tannins the way the better estates in Piedmont have been able to do. For what was a cool, moist vintage in Naoussa, the 2009 Ramnista from Kir-Yianni was both refreshing and charming, in spite of pegging in at the higher alcohols of its Italian role model. Comments
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